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Anti-seize safe on rubber

seagull369

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Jan 16, 2013
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227
I'd like to coat some rubber bushing through-bolts with something to prevent galling and was wondering if I could use Permatex's garden variety anti-seize. Would it be all right to use it or could it degrade the rubber?
 
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4xdog

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I've never had a problem with any polymer and Permatex copper antiseize.

But not all "rubber" is the same. That's a really broad term, comprising natural rubber, synthetic rubber, and thermoplastic elastomers of various kinds. Do you know from what the bushings are made?
 
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seagull369

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Jan 16, 2013
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But not all "rubber" is the same. That's a really broad term, comprising natural rubber, synthetic rubber, and thermoplastic elastomers of various kinds. Do you know from what the bushings are made?
I realize 'rubber' is a pretty generic term. I don't know the exact composition, but these are sway bar end-link bushings. They're not fancy urethane ones. just the cheapo OEMs that came with the car. There's also no metal sleeve involved, to answer your question, Wrench. The bolt comes in direct contact with the, uh, rubber.

The bolt that was in there originally became "one" with the bushing and took much coaxing to come out. The bushing is relatively unfazed, so I'm reusing it, just want to avoid the problem again.

Are most brake greases cool with rubber parts? I have more of those packets of those laying around here than ketchup :geek:
 

rockettauto

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May 12, 2023
Messages
745
It's fine. Original rubber links often come with moly grease and manufacturers often recommend lithium. Those are both petroleum based greases. Antisieze just adds graphite, copper and Aluminum to a petroleum grease.

If it's wrong then you marginally accelerated wear on an already old $15 part..... I wouldn't sweat it.

Think about ball joint boots, ball jointed end links , or caliper pin boots etc. Constant oil soak can kill some of the natural rubber linkage but that's a wholly different scenario. A little grease if it does soak in might even serve to restore the supple quality a little bit.
 

RPH

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Dec 17, 2006
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Michigan Thumb
DC4 from Dow Corning has worked for me fo4 4 decades.
Cornbinder,
In forty years there must be an improved product out there. One must google the formulations today. An 40 year old functional product had to be replaced with something better.
All said in jest but I’m looking into the DC4 you recommended.
After looking at the product online, I will endorse your recommendation. One I looked at it I realized it was what we used as heat sink grease on some inverter modules.
 

isb cornbinder

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Nov 3, 2010
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Pacific South West, BC, Canada
Cornbinder,
In forty years there must be an improved product out there. One must google the formulations today. An 40 year old functional product had to be replaced with something better.
All said in jest but I’m looking into the DC4 you recommended.
After looking at the product online, I will endorse your recommendation. One I looked at it I realized it was what we used as heat sink grease on some inverter modules.
I have had great success using DC4 as an assembly grease on disc brakes. I only use DOT 5 brake fluid.
On one of my trucks the brake line to the rear burst. The inside of the tube was in perfect condition, but, the outside of the tube was corroded. I drove that Truck for 20 years and almost a quarter of a million miles.
 

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AEAdam

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I realize 'rubber' is a pretty generic term. I don't know the exact composition, but these are sway bar end-link bushings. They're not fancy urethane ones. just the cheapo OEMs that came with the car. There's also no metal sleeve involved, to answer your question, Wrench. The bolt comes in direct contact with the, uh, rubber.

The bolt that was in there originally became "one" with the bushing and took much coaxing to come out. The bushing is relatively unfazed, so I'm reusing it, just want to avoid the problem again.

Are most brake greases cool with rubber parts? I have more of those packets of those laying around here than ketchup :geek:
This may have happened because whatever Lube was applied attacked the “rubber”.

If you aren’t sure what the ”rubber” is and you don’t know what the lubricant is, and I sure don’t, Superlube is the best answer.

Also, when certain elastomers come into contact with certain petrochemicals, the elastomers swell and change properties. The old rubber should be replaced. That damage probably isn’t just “skin deep”.
 

joe_padavano

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Feb 26, 2011
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Location
Northern VA
I routinely use normal Permatex anti-seize on bolts like this, including sway bar bushing bolts. The reality is that rubber will wear out or deteriorate from leaking engine oil long before the anti-seize can do any damage. Don't lose sleep over this.
 

2ndGearRubber

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Mar 24, 2014
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Pittsburgh
Generally speaking, your application will be fine.

The oil base in anti-seize will make some "rubber" products swell. Caliper slide pin boots, depending on manufacturer, will not tolerate anti-seize without swelling severely. Toyota, for instance, will puff up and swell with nearly anything but synthetic silicone.

For an application like a through-bolt, very little anti seize is contacting the bushing, and the bushing has a lot of surface area. I have seen bolts greased in a lot of ways, never to the detriment of the rubber around them.
 
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