Anti-Seize Usage

[justinking060310]

Okay. So I have had it with the rusty bolts on a used vehicle i recently purchased . Currently I am doing a motor rebuild and have a lot of the vehicle disassembled and was given the suggestion to use anti-seize on everything when I put it back together -- I am okay with the time consuming task of doing this if it is worth it.


Question - On a vehicle - What would you not use anti seize on and why?

Justin

 

[Junkman]

I use it on just about everything on the engine, but I also realize that torque settings can be difficult because of the loss of friction. Once you get used to working with the product, you never want to go back. There are also different grades for various applications. One size fits all doesn't work well...

 

[justinking060310]

I need to research the usage for the different types -- I have the bigger gray Permatex jar? with copper in it

 

[PAToyota]

It's funny - I was just changing the tires on my Bobcat over the weekend and was daubing a good bit of anti-seize on the lug bolts before I put it back together. Man were those tough to break loose! This was the first I've had them off since I bought the thing.

I can usually tell exactly how far I've been into a project before by when bolts start being more difficult to break loose. Difficult = I haven't taken them out before and hence no anti-seize on them. My feeling is that it is well worth the time to keep that jar beside you when you are reassembling and give each and every threaded part a brush of it as you go along.

[edit]Disclaimer: I guess I should have been more clear - I thought certain things would be obvious. Anti-seize and locktite don't mix - use one or the other. Don't use it where the compound would cause other issues - as with sensors, bridging electrical contacts, and such. [/edit]

 

[bmwpower]

Also good for disassembly. Put it on log bolts that you intend to remove the fasteners from. Helps remove them after you break the nut loose.

 

[Junkman]

If there is ever a part that you never want to rust, paint it with Never Seize, and you can soak it in salt water for years with no effect. Just don't get it on clothes, because it doesn't come off. If it does, then it isn't a good quality antiseize....

 

[bluesman2a]

I can usually tell exactly how far I've been into a project before by when bolts start being more difficult to break loose. Difficult = I haven't taken them out before and hence no anti-seize on them. My feeling is that it is well worth the time to keep that jar beside you when you are reassembling and give each and every threaded part a brush of it as you go along.

I run into the same thing working on old Jeeps, which are notorious for rust and stubborn bolts. PB Blaster and my trusty IR titanium to break them loose (often just break them), and antisieze to put them back on.

 

[Junkman]

When I run into stubborn rusted nuts and bolts, I hit them on the head with a hammer, then on opposing sides using a punch and hammer. Then I try to tighten it a little, before trying to remove it. I also use PBB laster liberally. If it still doesn't go, then I will heat it till cherry red, and let it cool till it is cold to the touch. Then I will attack it with the wrench again. Usually this time it will come off. I will work a "tight one" back and forth and lubricate it also. I rather spend time taking out a stubborn bolt, than taking more time to drill one out.

 

[mulepackin]

This brings up another question in my mind. You wouldn't use an antiseize compound on fasterners you would want a thread locker used on would you? I have not mixed the two. Can't imagine you would since you are wanting to achieve different ends. I do feel the thread lockers that are made to be removed act in an antiseize capacity to a degree.

 

[KingPerformance]

This brings up another question in my mind. You wouldn't use an antiseize compound on fasterners you would want a thread locker used on would you? I have not mixed the two. Can't imagine you would since you are wanting to achieve different ends. I do feel the thread lockers that are made to be removed act in an antiseize capacity to a degree.

Exactly. Anti sieze isn't the end all be all. It should go on items that specify antiseize and nothing more. The last thing you want is the reduction in friction so bolts/nuts can vibrate off. If you want to put anti seize on everything I would suggest safety wiring them as well. Sometimes that extra step just isn't the most logical to go for even if your intentions are good.

I have never had a bolt not come loose using the proper method Junk man described ... however, I have had low quality bolts snap the head off because I kept going instead of backing off and using the proper method. I would rather have a little more difficult time removing a bolt, then have something critical come apart at 80 mph on the higway or, faster on a race track.

 

[justinking060310]

Very informative posts from everyone -- thank you -- I appreciate all of the insight and opinions

Justin

 

[rocco]

In my experience, use it only where precise torque setting are not a big issue.
also make sure its not used on any surface that has a sensor attached to it(such as a knock sensor)

 

[Flathead Youngin']

to be hones, i use it on just about everything....even on one side of gaskets.......

you name it- well maybe not that far- and i put it on there.....

if i'm going to be the next guy to take it apart, it's getting some NS...

 

[Ironcrow]

Paradoxically, anti-seize and thread locker often serve the same purpose - prevent the intrusion of oxygen and moisture into the connection and prevent direct contact between threads to reduce galvanic corrosion.

So, I use anti-seize on fasteners that I have difficulty removing. And if I'm afraid the fastener will fall out, I use loctite instead.

 

[Morrisman]

If there is ever a part that you never want to rust, paint it with Never Seize, and you can soak it in salt water for years with no effect. Just don't get it on clothes, because it doesn't come off. If it does, then it isn't a good quality antiseize....

Funny, but I'm sitting here with Never Seize all down the front of my coveralls, as I was underneath a big compressor yesterday generously daubing it onto the 36mm studs that hold the valves in. I splosh that stuff all over to stop them rusting up. With 450 ft lbs of torque on the nuts the last thing you want is rusty threads come the next time you strip it down.

 

[ImportTuner]

Where do you guys normally buy Never Seize from or do you order it online; which grade of Never Seize is recommended for general auto work? thanks

 

[russlaferrera]

All auto parts stock it. The product is manufactured by several companies, is Permatex, Bostik, and is re-bagged by more companies.

There is different mixes of it Nickel for Stainless steel, copper for general useage, Moly for breaking of high static loads ( heavy equipment), Teflon, used in the plumbing industry There are special one for every trade for, electrical

I would love to see one for wallets. You know the one's that never see the light of day when the bill/check comes.

 

[ownsaglock]

I love NS. Have a keg of the gray permatex. I use the blue lock tite on some stuff.

 

[Todd96SRV]

Some great ideas in here about the Loctite products. I think what's most important is to understand the intended applications for two very different products.

Anti-Seize is best suited to parts that see alot of heat or alot of pressure. Anytime two metal surfaces are torqued or pressed in tightly and there is heat over 500F, the use of antisieze is beneficial. Dis-similar metal contact is another instance, where galvanic corrosion becomes an issue, Aluminum wheels onto steel wheel hubs is a great example.

Threadlockers are best suited to threaded fasteners in applications under 500F. Blue is removable with hand tools, Red is always high strength. Best to remember that Red means stop and think before you put it on because it won't release easily (heat is key). 80% of applications use Blue. Threadlockers make repairs easier and more reliable.

 

[NSXSOON]

All the above is great info. Anti-Seize should not generaly be used on cyl head bolts or blind fasteners unless the engineering spec calls for it because you risk hydraulic lock which can cause cracked blocks/cases as well as distorted torque values.