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Anti-Strip Hex Wrenches

Farmall 1066

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I work on a lot of old, neglected, rusty stuff. Seems like half the time, smaller Allen head setscrews will strip, despite your best efforts.
Didn't someone offer them with serrated edges to bite into the sides of the screw?
Did they work well, and where can I get them?
 
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jeremy v

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Jul 26, 2011
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Are you thinking of "sock-it out" extractors? They have the hex end slightly tapered so you hammer it into the hex socket head and it locks in tightly even if has been previously stripped.
 

barneyim26

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Dec 14, 2013
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i generally just jam a torx socket into a stripped allen. trick i learned from a guy i used to work with. i keep a set only for that use and a set for standard use.

snap on man doesn't like it when i have to warranty them but it does work.
 

bwringer

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Just to avoid the problem in the first place... there's a lot of dimensional variation in the smaller hex sizes.

I've got several brands lying around, and before I crank hard on a 1.5mm hex key, I'll try several examples. Quite often, one fits a bit tighter than the others.
 

nicksnothereman

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I work on a lot of old, neglected, rusty stuff. Seems like half the time, smaller Allen head setscrews will strip, despite your best efforts.
Didn't someone offer them with serrated edges to bite into the sides of the screw?
Did they work well, and where can I get them?

Try penetrating oil and...a ball end hex socket or handle but at the sharpest angle. That way you don't strip the whole fastener.:lol:
 

Danglerb

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Good job for the HF 100 bit security set, just pick a tight fit and hammer it in.
 
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Farmall 1066

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I'm picky about proper fit, cleaning the hole out first, penetrating oil, etc, but still strip some.
Never liked using Torx bits for that, at least on smaller sizes, as it can swedge the fastener, making it harder to remove.
Don't know how to describe what I'm thinking of, but like a standard L shaped wrench, but had leading edges sharpened and relieved, to bite into the fastener.
 

Kracin

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Mar 25, 2013
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Omaha, NE
two of the best hex key brands that will get even mostly stripped socket caps/set screws out.

bondhus "gorilla" wrenches

and the wera style L-keys have special shapes that help to get extra gripping surface.
 

jmm

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Make sure you're not using cheap allen wrenches to begin with and your problems should go away. Go for a top-tier brand like Bondhus, Wiha, PB Swiss, etc.
 

efb16acrx

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wera hex plus is pretty awesome if its metric. I've even used the wrong sizes on some standard stuff that was in pretty bad shape and it still worked to get the hardware out.
 
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mrjaw14

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I was trying to get the ABS module out of my truck and 3 of the 4 torx screws holding the controller to the pump module. There was almost zero clearance to work with, so naturally all my attempts were likely off-center. Stripped them all. Grabbed my dremel and cut a slot in the screw for a flat blade screwdriver. That worked on 2 of the 3 stripped screws. The 3rd one I couldn't get a slot cut all the way because most of the screw was surrounded by the component. I got a dremel carrbide cutter and used that to "eat" the screw head away. Once the screwhead was gone, I was able to remove the module.

When screws are boogered up I like to replace them, so I didn't care I was destroying the fastener. maybe you don't have that option, but if it weren't for my dremel I wouldn't have got this part off without removing the ABS lines, pump..yada yada...so it definitely saved my **** from a lot more work. So just keep that in the back of your mind
 

Kracin

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wera hex plus is pretty awesome if its metric. I've even used the wrong sizes on some standard stuff that was in pretty bad shape and it still worked to get the hardware out.

thats a whole little trick in itself there lol... round out the fastener all the way, then switch to metric (or standard whichever was opposite), and jam the wrench in so it gets a super tight fit.... voila!
 

APEowner

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Depending on what you're working on and the room that's available an impact driver (the type you whack with a big hammer) may be a good addition to your bag of tricks. When I worked on motorcycles for a living (best job ever, BTW) I got in the habit of using the impact driver on all socket and phillips head screws first and I almost never stripped a head.
 

Wamsutta

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It helps to get all the dirt and rust out of the hex head first before you insert the hex driver in there. That way you can get the hex driver in there as far as possible.
 

bart1

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Alabama the Beautiful
wera hex plus is pretty awesome if its metric. I've even used the wrong sizes on some standard stuff that was in pretty bad shape and it still worked to get the hardware out.

That would be my guess. I am not aware of any hex with ACR or diamond coating or anything.

fhex1c.gif
 

General Geoff

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Allentown, Pennsylvania
Make sure you're not using cheap allen wrenches to begin with and your problems should go away. Go for a top-tier brand like Bondhus, Wiha, PB Swiss, etc.

Even with a Bondhus hex socket and thoroughly cleaning out the bolt head AND dousing the bolt with pb blast, I still stripped out a harmonic balancer bolt from a '98 Jetta TDI. Ended up having to hammer a cheap 'universal spline' socket onto the outside of the bolt head and break it loose with an impact.

Sometimes even the best tools can't get a fastener unstuck. :(
 
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Farmall 1066

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Always use the good ones, Snap-On or Bondhus, and I'm damned particular about them being worn, or not fitting properly, and having the recesses clean.

The valve grinding compound does work well, used that trick several times.
 

youngridge

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Dec 15, 2013
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Put a swab of epoxy on the end of it and stick it in, sometimes it works, other times it just make a mess of things.......and yes I have seen more extreme mesures taken when it comes to a stripped bolt or nut.
 

kjbenner

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Jan 1, 2011
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NE Ohio
Were can i buy these..they look like a male version of a flank drive socket

I believe those are rebranded Wera (Wera owns the Hex-Plus trademark used there).

The Wera version is on Amazon and is probably easier to find elsewhere too.
 
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