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Antique Stanley spirit level

MajorTaylor13

Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2024
Messages
19
Location
Mass
I just picked up an antique Stanley spirit level. I'm not able to find a model number on it as I haven't cleaned it up yet. It has the earlier Stanley Rule & Level Co. stamp on a brass plate. I can't read the patent dates because of some oxidation. It appears to be made of rosewood. It's 30" long. One of the glass vials is broken unfortunately otherwise it's in very nice condition considering.

What's the consensus on cleaning this up without devaluing it ?

Any info would be helpful and appreciated.

Thanks !
IMG_0010.jpegIMG_0009.jpegIMG_0011.jpegIMG_0012.jpegIMG_0013.jpeg
 
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four.cycle

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Oct 19, 2015
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Tacoma, Washington
First thing is "Do no harm."
Take your time. Go slow.
I'm not exactly sure how I'd go about tackling that in respect to what sort of solution to use to break those screws free without damaging or staining the wood.
It does look like there's another line of text below the "NEW BRITAIN CONN USA". Maybe just wipe it with a terry cloth dipped in a bit of vinegar?

Other than that I have to defer to someone here who's tackled something like that.
 

RTM

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May 13, 2019
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13,231
Location
SF Bay Area
First thing is "Do no harm."
Take your time. Go slow.
Don’t sand it.

I’d start with varying increasing strengths of cleaners, everyone has their own opinion on the order. sprays of Water, windex, Dawn, simple green, mineral spirits are some semblance of order. Do not soak / submerge it.

Alcohol, lacquer thinner, paint stripper are far more extreme.

Then start gently removing screws, make sure your screwdriver is precisely sized for the slot, don’t get ham handed and force it. Lean into the screwdriver, gently try to turn it, keeping downward force on the bit. If it doesn’t move, try again tomorrow. Often the screw has a bit of rust firmed on the threads, distorting the shape.
Remember, if you muck them up, new brass Phillips head screws will look like hell in their place.
When cleaning the brass, I use Simichrome, or other gentle polishes. I don’t want it looking like new, I want it looking like my grampa took care of it.

I could go on, but gotta run.
 

Oregon Dave

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Sep 16, 2023
Messages
298
You have quite a treasure there; I have restored wood & brass levels in the past, but myself, would seek further knowledge from an experienced craftsman or gather as much information as possible and proceed.

Hopefully after restoration, you'll share some pictures back.

If 'Major' has a military implication, you must know about Brasso; AND if , for now, you just want to read the patent data more clearly - Q-Tip, very small amount of Brasso, delicate etc.
 

crguy

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Jan 24, 2016
Messages
2,659
Location
SW Washington
Some of the Stanley levels are stamped in the wood, either on top or on the end. Yours looks like either a #60 or #90. It's not rosewood, and not high value, especially in that condition.
 
Last edited:

OldnSlo

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Sep 18, 2011
Messages
219
Location
Arizona
Oil it up, polish the brass. Place on a shelf and create your own stories. Vials are available (and very size specific), but unless you really, really want to go down that road, just let it be.
 

RTM

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Vials are available (and very size specific),
And very pricey unless you find them in a garage sale or something similar.

I might do that for a rosewood one or family own one, but if I found a $4 level at a garage sale I wouldn't throw $25 or more at a vial to bring it back to life. There are too many good ones out there for reasonable cost.
 
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MajorTaylor13

Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2024
Messages
19
Location
Mass
Some of the Stanley levels are stamped in the wood, either on top or on the end. Yours looks like either a #50 or #90. It's not rosewood, and not high value, especially in that condition.
Thanks, what type of wood is it?
 

Oldtuleguy

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Nov 4, 2017
Messages
10,461
Here's a 104 I've been using
 

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SquirrelsTools

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Oct 5, 2023
Messages
140
Location
Flint Michigan
I generally start with heavily diluted dawn dish soap in warm water.

Then I'll move on to a degreaser, also diluted.

Do small test areas, Be patient. If you just hammer it with a cleaning agent and it's very dry, the flash hydration can bend and even crack it.

If you want to leave patina on the brass a solution of two parts vinegar and one part water. Get an old shirt or terry cloth shop rag and don't scrub, wipe.

There's enough missing paint there to use warm mineral oil to finish it. Microwave a cup of it for 15 seconds ish and use a brush to coat it. Don't wipe it off right away. Give it a good 20 minutes and then use a lint free cloth to wipe it down

If you want a "Shine" on it, plain beeswax and elbow grease.

Things don't have to be intrinsically valuable to be worth restoring properly. Sometimes a thing can be beautiful AND inexpensive.
 

crguy

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Jan 24, 2016
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Location
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I have several that are cherry, according to the catalog, based on the number. And one rosewood, much heavier than the others.
Yes, Stanley use several kinds of wood in their levels. Rosewood was used in the top of the line models.
 

crguy

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 24, 2016
Messages
2,659
Location
SW Washington
I generally start with heavily diluted dawn dish soap in warm water.

Then I'll move on to a degreaser, also diluted.

Do small test areas, Be patient. If you just hammer it with a cleaning agent and it's very dry, the flash hydration can bend and even crack it.

If you want to leave patina on the brass a solution of two parts vinegar and one part water. Get an old shirt or terry cloth shop rag and don't scrub, wipe.

There's enough missing paint there to use warm mineral oil to finish it. Microwave a cup of it for 15 seconds ish and use a brush to coat it. Don't wipe it off right away. Give it a good 20 minutes and then use a lint free cloth to wipe it down

If you want a "Shine" on it, plain beeswax and elbow grease.

Things don't have to be intrinsically valuable to be worth restoring properly. Sometimes a thing can be beautiful AND inexpensive.
I never use water to clean wood items, and I think the idea of the possibility of bending or cracking a level is a real stretch.
 
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