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Anvil made from rail track

JonnyMac

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Dec 15, 2012
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845
Location
Victoria, Australia
As I can't seem to find an anvil for less than $500 im using the section of rail track method.
Its already cut to length, about 20", but I wouldn't mind getting one of the ends shaped into a point.
Ive not tried anything yet but is it even worth trying to attack it with a grinder or is an oxy torch the only sensible option (I dont have a torch btw)..
Cheers...
 
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Wes917

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Feb 2, 2014
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NE ohio
I'd cut it with a torch then grind, I think it would take for ever otherwise, without a very large grinder.
 

Bobcat753

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Feb 24, 2014
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New Hampshire
Know anyone with a bandsaw? That can be the route or ask around and see if your buddies have one or know someone with one (torch,ect). You could always put a metal cutting blade in a circular saw and then grind it to your liking.
 

astroracer

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Mid_Michigan
I think the piece of track will eat up bandsaw blades. I believe they are induction hardened when they are made and cutting them with any type of blade will be impossible.
I have a nice sized chunk I use all the time. I'll put a file to it today to see how hard it is.
Mark
 

R6 Racer

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Northern Ontario Canada
Cut it to your desired basic shape with an O.A.torch, grind to finish.
An O.A. torch will cut it easy. I've cut a few pieces of track with mine.

Steve
 

Mr.N

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Mpls, MN
I cut mind with a portable old 9" grinder, as it was stuck in place.
I do not suggest that unless you know how dangerous they can be.
 

zkling

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Jan 23, 2007
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16,939
Do you need a horn? If not go get a large chunk of bar stock and use it as a Japanese or robin style anvil.

You COULD do it with a grinder and good selection of wheels, but it won't be fun. Outside of finding someone with a torch a portaband or the like would be a good choice to get the bulk off, then you can finish up with the grinder.
 
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EOC_Jason

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Jun 25, 2012
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Location
Bentonville, AR
I have one of those mini anvils with the horn on them, but more often than not I end up just using some random scrap of metal to beat stuff on...
 

Ole Guy

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Mar 15, 2014
Messages
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Location
Montesano, WA USA
I used my 4"x6" band saw to cut the end of this piece of track. It went through quite easily. Cutting on an angle would be difficult only in that clamping it into position would be tricky.

View media item 38710
Nice job PCO6, I would have never guessed that it came out of a piece of rail.
I have an 18" piece of rail I have been using for a few years but like the OP, I have wanted something closer to a real anvil. However, I do have a machine shop with both a horizontal or vertical milling machine. And I have a shaper as well, but think I will try the horiz. mill since it will take larger cutters and the table feed is more robust.
Might be a good project to do a YouTube video of.

Thanks the the Original Post and some good ideas.

Ole Guy
 
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larry_g

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oregon
I did one on a metal shaper once with out any problems. Go for it.

lg
no neat sig line
 

lotsoftools

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Oct 22, 2011
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Location
Inland Empire
Here's a pic that kind of shows the angle I cut on the top with the portaband. I also cut the curve on the left end with just the portaband. For the curve on the right end, I used a hole saw to get the round then used the portaband to make the straight cuts.
The hole in the middle was already there.
 

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lotsoftools

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Sorry, my pic must have been too big because I could only put one on each post. Here's a side view.
 

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Joe69

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Sep 6, 2009
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Muncie, Indiana
We have a job this summer of removing 500' track. It's an old, unused track, and we're paving the road. The state wants the crossing removed, and repaved. I helped them with the bid a while back. They wanted my input on how long it would take to cut the track up into manageable pieces, since I'm the one that will be cutting it. I have plans of keeping a couple feet of track, to make an anvil out of.

I'll be watching this thread with much interest.

Joe
 

wvrailroader

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Jan 20, 2014
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Location
West Virginia
I think the piece of track will eat up bandsaw blades. I believe they are induction hardened when they are made and cutting them with any type of blade will be impossible.
I have a nice sized chunk I use all the time. I'll put a file to it today to see how hard it is.
Mark

Only some of the more modern stuff is induction hardened and usually only the head. It is identified by the letters "HH" on the web of the rail. Most hardened rail was made by Nippon Steel in Japan. In general, rail is fairly soft - years ago it was cut with a reciprocating hacksaw device. It took a while to cut but it did work.

We generally cut rail with an abrasive blade saw at work. The thin top layer is work hardened by the wheels rolling over it, but once you get through that, it cuts fairly easily.
 

Bobhdus

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Oct 20, 2012
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262
Location
Missouri
I love mine!!! Never really thought about adding to it though. The hole in mine is for bending. I'm looking for a decent post or a log for a more permanent spot for it now.

uqyguvu2.jpg
 

kbs2244

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Nov 11, 2006
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14,065
I have 16 inch peice I got at an auction with a point on it.
It looks to be OA cut.
I have never used the point for anything.
 

astroracer

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Jun 22, 2005
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Location
Mid_Michigan
I did the file test on the piece I have and the file cut it easily. Bandsaw shouldn't have a problem with it... I may shorten mine up just to make it a bit more manageable!
Mark
 
OP
J

JonnyMac

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Dec 15, 2012
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Location
Victoria, Australia
For the $40 that the engineering shop I use is changing to cut it I will leave it to them!
The guy I got it from has 3 tonnes of 1ft section that he used to use to weigh down the laminate floors he installs, but they are no longer required as he has changed glue/ suppliers etc.
We chatted about the cutting of them and he said a band saw didnt do well so they resorted to a torch. But had to use a wide flame as so much heat was used in the narrow flame that it sometimes rewelded itself once the flame passed through.
 

Vegaman_Dan

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Jun 1, 2012
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Location
Pacific, WA
I have a few pieces to park my speeder on, and a couple of chunks I've picked up at estate sales when they didn't know what they had. I haven't used them to beat on since the head isn't flat. I would want a perfectly flat surface and wasn't sure how to do it.

Machine shop. D'OH! Of course that would work. I used to do cylinder heads and flywheels back when I was at NAPA. Shoot, I will just have to take this piece down to the shop and have them grind a flat surface on top. Simple, quick, cheap.

I never thought of that! Thanks!
 
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