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Anvil stand build

z-edition 006

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Hi, just started to build a stand for my anvil. I will use square tubing for the legs, and steel plate to be under the anvil. Mabe put some casters to make it mobile. I also plan to use sand in the legs, that is to reduse noise and so on.
 

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z-edition 006

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z-edition 006

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nelstomlinson

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Interesting. I had always heard that anvils were supposed to be put on the end grain of a chunk of log - something about absorbing vibrations?
 
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z-edition 006

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Preheating the steel before welding.
 

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Jazz1

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Interesting. I had always heard that anvils were supposed to be put on the end grain of a chunk of log - something about absorbing vibrations?

Yes that stand is going to resonate some unless some rubber mat applied to bottom of anvil or at least bottom of stand.
 
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z-edition 006

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Yes that stand is going to resonate some unless some rubber mat applied to bottom of anvil or at least bottom of stand.

I all ready have rubber mat for that purpose. I will put that on place later in the build.
 
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z-edition 006

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Some more progress.
 

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Scout Driver

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Great build!! I like the sand in the legs to add mass and absorb some of shock of hammering. Nice looking welds too!

Scott
 

Bears Fan

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Great design and execution on the build!!! I have been looking for a anvil on the cheap for a while now and if I really want one I may have to pony up some big cash for one and I may have to steal some of your ideas! I really like how the anvil is recessed down in the top to keep it from moving around...top notch build :thumbup: :thumbup:
 

Oregon rock crusher

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Nice project and very nice fab work z-edition. As far as the connection between anvil and steel stand I personally prefer them to be as solidly mounted as possible. The anvil works by resisting the impact of the hammer and solid, unmovable mass under the blow is key. Any give in the support under the anvil lessens it's ability to reflect energy. With enough mass in the anvil the effect of cushioned support is minimal though...

When I anchored my anvil to the stand I went old school and used molten lead for the connection and sealed it in with Belzona. It took a lot of heat to get that lead puddle liquid. Many people have used nothing more than silicon to make the anvil/stand connection which seems to work quite well. Having a solid connection by either method takes most of the ring out of the anvil. The difference was dramatic in my anvil which rang like a bell until attached. Just another thing you might want to consider. I do prefer a steel anvil stand....many prefer wood. Ed.
 

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z-edition 006

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Great design and execution on the build!!! I have been looking for a anvil on the cheap for a while now and if I really want one I may have to pony up some big cash for one and I may have to steal some of your ideas! I really like how the anvil is recessed down in the top to keep it from moving around...top notch build :thumbup: :thumbup:

Thanks. Just steal away.

Nice project and very nice fab work z-edition. As far as the connection between anvil and steel stand I personally prefer them to be as solidly mounted as possible. The anvil works by resisting the impact of the hammer and solid, unmovable mass under the blow is key. Any give in the support under the anvil lessens it's ability to reflect energy. With enough mass in the anvil the effect of cushioned support is minimal though...

When I anchored my anvil to the stand I went old school and used molten lead for the connection and sealed it in with Belzona. It took a lot of heat to get that lead puddle liquid. Many people have used nothing more than silicon to make the anvil/stand connection which seems to work quite well. Having a solid connection by either method takes most of the ring out of the anvil. The difference was dramatic in my anvil which rang like a bell until attached. Just another thing you might want to consider. I do prefer a steel anvil stand....many prefer wood. Ed.

Your anvil stand looks great. What’s behind the door? Do you store stuff for your anvil there?
 

Oregon rock crusher

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Your anvil stand looks great. What’s behind the door? Do you store stuff for your anvil there?


Thanks z. Because my stand started out as a large piece of I-beam it had those natural storage areas between the flanges. They are about 12" wide x 16" tall by 6" deep. I put doors with self closing hinges on both sides and keep hardies, punches, and other smaller type tooling in them. Room for a few hammers on the ends. Here are a couple pics right after I finished it several years ago. Ed.
 

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z-edition 006

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Thanks z. Because my stand started out as a large piece of I-beam it had those natural storage areas between the flanges. They are about 12" wide x 16" tall by 6" deep. I put doors with self closing hinges on both sides and keep hardies, punches, and other smaller type tooling in them. Room for a few hammers on the ends. Here are a couple pics right after I finished it several years ago. Ed.

Very nice build. Not often you see a build of this character. Well done mister :) what do you use to provent rust?

Made a handle today to make the stand mobile:
 

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Oregon rock crusher

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Looking good there z-edition. With a mobile stand you'll be able to make the most of your space. For rust control on vises, anvils, and other tools that sit under the lean to fab area I use to just coat them in used oil from a diesel engine. Makes them black and last quite a while. BLO works very well too though and now that's mostly what I use now. Not a problem most of the year but when the warm wet air comes in after a cold spell everything not in an insulated area wants to sweat.
 
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z-edition 006

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Looking good there z-edition. With a mobile stand you'll be able to make the most of your space. For rust control on vises, anvils, and other tools that sit under the lean to fab area I use to just coat them in used oil from a diesel engine. Makes them black and last quite a while. BLO works very well too though and now that's mostly what I use now. Not a problem most of the year but when the warm wet air comes in after a cold spell everything not in an insulated area wants to sweat.

Thanks. My shop is only a two car garage, thats why i made it mobile. Used engine oil is a good tip. I will try that on my anvil. I have used wd-40, but the rust come back in a few weeks.

Thanks for the tip
 
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z-edition 006

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I have a dilemma about which wheels to choose. What do you guys think looks best? Big 5″ heavy duty casters or standard car jack casters?
 

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z-edition 006

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Didn’t like the car jack wheels. I think they are to small. Got some bigger cast iron wheels:
 

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SpiderDave

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Man, those welds are,... like, what's the word? Delicious? Nice job on everything, my compliments.
 
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z-edition 006

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rpcraft

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The cast wheels are always a pain to move things across rough cast floors. I had hopes when i moved to my new garage and had smoother concrete I'd have a change of heart but they are still garbage. That said heat might not be too friendly on the softer wheels but they'll probably be a little easier to move around overall.
 
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z-edition 006

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The cast wheels are always a pain to move things across rough cast floors. I had hopes when i moved to my new garage and had smoother concrete I'd have a change of heart but they are still garbage. That said heat might not be too friendly on the softer wheels but they'll probably be a little easier to move around overall.

I know about the pros and cons. I can live with cast iron wheels, if they ever break i have three more sets of wheels in spare.
 

LXCam

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Great job on the stand :beer:

And I really like the security chain to keep her safe. That way nobody throws the anvil in their pocket and walks off with it :lol_hitti


Seriously, what's the significance of the chain?
 

BD1

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Here's the one I did for mine. A Cliff Carrol wide face with turning cams. The turning cams are really handy for me. Perfect anvil for my horseshoe art.
 

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z-edition 006

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Nice build you got there BD1. Some more progress on my build:
 

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G-ManBart

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Yes that stand is going to resonate some unless some rubber mat applied to bottom of anvil or at least bottom of stand.

Not really. I've made a number of stands with a similar style build and none of them resonate. I add steel pads for the legs to distribute the force a bit, but have zero problems with any kind of resonance.

Here are three I have set up by one of my forges. 137# Soderfors, 330# Refflinghaus and 200# Fisher.
 

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z-edition 006

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I have polished the top and horn of the anvil, and soaked it in used engine oil to prevent rust. I also put some rubber mat under the feel and a rubber handle.
 

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iajonesy

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All I can say is, WOW. Those are some very nice stands, everyone. Thanks, z-edition for the great photos of your outstanding build. I am very envious of your skills.

Mike
 
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z-edition 006

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All I can say is, WOW. Those are some very nice stands, everyone. Thanks, z-edition for the great photos of your outstanding build. I am very envious of your skills.

Mike

Thanks.

Here is the finished product. Very happy about it :)
I have also made a video on youtube:
 

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