Anvil Stand

[markb1]

In the process of cleaning up I found that I can't move my anvil without a hoist and the bricks it's setting on are not safe.

I put this guy on two different scales, the cotton scale maxed out at 240#s and it hadn't come off the blocks yet,

The plan is to mack a stand that is stable and that I can move around the shop. Also this an opportunity to practice my welding.

Thats a Peter Wright on the bottom and a Hay Buden in the middle, The Peter W. has 130 stamped in the side for hundred weight, it maxed out the 200# scale too. It rolls around with all three on it but a little hard to get the wheels all going th same way. Next I need to attach the anvil to the stand and make some holders for hammers etc.

 

[tigmusky]

looks nice. do you think the wheels will hold up the the pounding? here' a few pics of the stand i made. just some ideas. daye

 

[george4]

looks nice. do you think the wheels will hold up the the pounding? here' a few pics of the stand i made. just some ideas. daye

Excellent.

 

[Uncle Buck]

Dang, I wish I could find one of those old timers that did not cost stupid money!

 

[markb1]

looks nice. do you think the wheels will hold up the the pounding? here' a few pics of the stand i made. just some ideas. daye

The wheels are removable, they would never hold up and the anvil would possibly move around.

If you notice in the pics I have a crow bar that I lift the stand with and then insert wheels in to pockets-move -remove wheels, sorry I didn't make that very clear.

"Dang, I wish I could find one of those old timers that did not cost stupid money!"

hholmburg, I got the big one (the first one) about 20 yrs. ago, 30 or 40 bucks and a cow bell at a garage sale that we had been to a few times.

The others at garage sales too but don't remember when or where, I know I didn't pay more than $75.00

I don't see them much anymore and when I do the price like you said is stupid.

 

[bmwpower]

Is an anvil a total necessity if you're doing metal work?

I wish I had one a couple of times to help bang on some automotive stuff.

 

[Uncle Buck]

Is an anvil a total necessity if you're doing metal work?

I wish I had one a couple of times to help bang on some automotive stuff.

Mainly if you are blacksmithing, indispensable. They are just handy to have around for heavy metal forming work of any kind though. As mentioned above the old quality ones go quite high these days though!

 

[Franz©]

This is so easy I'm shocked you didn't think of it. Just provide the address and JT will be there to remove them big overweight hunks of iron from your property.

Till he arives, weigh the small anvil on the cottin scale. attach a beam to the big anvil and hang the beam a fixed distance from the anvil as a fulcrum. About a foot generally works. Then hang the small anvil on the other side of the fulcrum and move till the beam balances. Some basic cypherin will then tell youwhat the big anvil weighs.

So, how are you going to take the ring out of the monster?

Might seem silly, but why didn't you just slip the wheel brackets into the square base tube like a Reese hitch?

 

[Uncle Buck]

Might seem silly, but why didn't you just slip the wheel brackets into the square base tube like a Reese hitch?

That is a real damned good idea!

 

[comp]

nice

 

[markb1]

The two big ones don't ring bad, the ring they have I like, but to take it out I've heard you can put a fan belt around the waist with some kind of weight.

Why I didn't use the ends as receivers?

I didn't think of it, but I did think of a couple other ways to do it and I just went ahead and used what I had on hand, it's easy for me to procrastinate on these projects.

 

[markb1]

Is an anvil a total necessity if you're doing metal work?

I wish I had one a couple of times to help bang on some automotive stuff.

I was thinking about this question and remembered...

I used to run a Case 580B backhoe in the Calif. foothills and I would work it pretty hard on the side hills, well my rear axle loosened up and I sheared the ring gear off the carrier( not sure that's the right term) so I tore it down and found that the gear was held in place by about 12to20 3/8" rivets. The used carrier cost about $900.00 so I ordered the appropriate sized rivets, punched out the old ones and set the assembly on that big guy with an O/A torch near by and heated each rivet inserted and smacked it down. Never had a problem with that repair.

If you have one you'll use it.

 

[markb1]

Till he arives, weigh the small anvil on the cottin scale. attach a beam to the big anvil and hang the beam a fixed distance from the anvil as a fulcrum. About a foot generally works. Then hang the small anvil on the other side of the fulcrum and move till the beam balances. Some basic cypherin will then tell youwhat the big anvil weighs.

Ok Franz get the slide rule out.

7/8" from fulcrum to lift point,
18# weight, 11-1/2" from fulcrum

 

[Defender Chassis]

By my calcs: 236 lbs

 

[george4]

By my calcs: 236 lbs

I got 236.5714285?

 

[markb1]

Thanks guys , is there a simple formula for that?

 

[ss2]

that is huge. (anvil)
you must be building locomotives!

 

[mulepackin]

Great looking stands! A suggestion I might make for anyone using an anvil is to put a sheet of cork or some other slightly resilient material between the stand and the anvil. I do a lot of hammering on the anvil when I shoe horses and after awhile the elbow and shoulder start to scream. The layer of material seems to dampen the shock wave that travels back up the hammer and arm to the joints. Doesn't affect your work, in fact I think it improves it. Just an old trick some of the old timers have shown me.

 

[Franz©]

Dang smartass kids.
Mark it's a lot easier if you make the distance from fulcrum to load an exact inch.

Oh, and about the slippery stick, I keep mine real handy. I just might fab up a keyboard mount for it.

It's good to see some of the rest of the kids stayed awake in math class, even if they did use fancy calculators.

Now that Mark has the raw weight all he needs do is weigh the chain and deduct the tare from the raw weight and he'll know what the anvil weighs.

By the way Mark, where the hell is the slider on the beamscale? You should be able to do accurate weight on that beam up to 1000# with the knobby you have and the slider.

 

[markb1]

Mule packin , thanks for that idea, I think I have an old mud flap around here somewhere.

Franz, Never seen a slider but I do have another weight like the one shown only smaller.

ss2 welcome to the board and size does count

 

[markb1]

I think this is the same scale, don't see a slider, am I missing something?

 

[markb1]

maybe like this?

 

[Franz©]

The slider is visible in the pic of the beam scale. True weight is read at the pointer along the beam.
This particular scale is a Bagger model. The slider can be locked into position with the setscrew in the bottom of the sliding weight for repeated weighing as bags are filled.

The shackle at the back end of the beam is for hanging multiplier weights, like the ones in the second picture. The multipliers increase the scale's capacity by the incriment of the multiplier weight. Hanging the 400# multiplier from the shackle converts a 100# scale to a 500# scale. Of course the drawback is the scale can only read accurately from 400# thru 500#. I only have 2 of the multipliers for this scale.

 

[Franz©]

Mule I may well catch a lightning bolt from PawPaw for typing this, but if the shock from the hammer is gettin to you, try a shotloaded deadblow hammer. They look real ugly, but they put more ouch into the steel, and the shock is eliminated.

SORRY PawPaw, really I am.

 

[george4]

Dang smartass kids.

I hope you are referring to me, I am 60.