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Anvil stand

Charliekilo

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Joined
Jan 16, 2012
Messages
91
Location
Ca
Time to replace the chunk of log that was my stand for years.
Am thinking about using truck rims welded together. don't think they will rot as fast.
Any thoughts?:dunno:
 
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58Yeoman

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Joined
Oct 1, 2010
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8,999
Location
Central IL
Re: Anvel stand

Instead of an ordinary log, find a small tree stump and cut the bottom even, then mount the anvil to it. Get one with pronounced tree roots so it looks like it's 'rooted' to the floor.
 

5lima30

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Nov 11, 2010
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2,442
Location
Mountains of Western NC
Re: Anvel stand

I don't think you will be happy with the tire rims welded together. I don't think that it will "feel" right IMHO. Try to find a but end of a maple, hickory, or oak log. Be sure to seal the ends with sealer. :thumbup:
 

RHD 4 LIFE

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Joined
Feb 16, 2009
Messages
104
Location
Southern Ontario
Re: Anvel stand

The reason they are mounted on big wood logs is to absorb the shock from repeated blows. Otherwise your steel mount would walk around the shop!
 

Lippyp

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Joined
Jun 26, 2006
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6,720
Location
Shropshire, UK
One interesting idea I've seen is a tapered stand made from 3mm steel sheet, wide end on the floor tapering in to the size of the base of the anvil at the top. You then fill it with sand, drop a plate in on top of the sand and then the anvil. You can adjust the height by removing or adding sand and apparently it has much the same qualities as a good stump. Don't need a bottom on it and to move it just pick it up and shovel up the sand.
 

jamesemery728

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Joined
May 2, 2009
Messages
961
This one works pretty well for me. The anvil sits on a piece of plywood that absorbs some of the shock. No particular reason for the design other than 3 legs are kind of self leveling on an uneven floor.
 

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NUTTSGT

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Sep 14, 2009
Messages
50,962
Location
Northern Central Ohio
Time to replace the chunk of log that was my stand for years.
Am thinking about using truck rims welded together. don't think they will rot as fast.
Any thoughts?:dunno:

I think I'm somewhat lost here. You talk about the chunk of log that has been used for years. But you want something that will not rot as fast.

If you used something for years, I wouldn't think it was rotting fast. :dunno:
 
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Charliekilo

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Joined
Jan 16, 2012
Messages
91
Location
Ca
After all the good info you have supplied I think I will try to laminate RR tie pieces. They are fairly cheap and common around here. I have some 1/2 rod that I can make tie bolts with. Don't know about moisture swelling /shrinkage though.
It has to set outside as the sound in the small tin shop would drive me nuts even with ear muffs. That 3 legged stand sure looks good.
 
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Charliekilo

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 16, 2012
Messages
91
Location
Ca
I think I'm somewhat lost here. You talk about the chunk of log that has been used for years. But you want something that will not rot as fast.

If you used something for years, I wouldn't think it was rotting fast. :dunno:

A piece of Doug fur around here will last 3 to 5 years before becoming useless.
 

sawin

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Joined
Mar 1, 2009
Messages
96
Location
Central Maine
I strip the bark off to allow the round to dry out easier. I then use some old oil, (any type would be fine), and put it on both ends till it stops sopping it up. When it needs it - every year or two - I'll slap some more oil on it.

Wood, if it can dry properly, will last a very long time. Ever notice the vertical boards on an old farm building? Some are over 100 years old. I have a bunch that had the softer wood just wear from the elements. The harder will not wear near as much, and the results are quite nice.

Actually I have some boards that were siding for well over 100 years. They are somewhat fragile. I made a kitchen table from some. I covered it with many coats of polyur - enough to fill all the grooves and make the top smooth.
 

zip95864

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Joined
Jul 25, 2011
Messages
281
Location
Sacramento CA
Just made one out of an old railroad tie I found:

IMG_2085.JPG
 

Zengineer

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Joined
Apr 10, 2010
Messages
781
Location
British Columbia, Canada
Rims will flex too much I think. Remember, the more solid the mount the less force you will need to supply with your arm.

I used 2x12's and glue... pretty easy and totally solid.

  • I used 100% silicone between the anvil and block to deaden the ring.
  • Banded the top "just in case" the glue let go.
  • The chain is nothing more than a secondary fastening method.

attachment.php
 

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