just a noob
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- Oct 24, 2013
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Currently in school to be an ag technician so I was wondering if anybody could give me a general idea of what I'm going to need for tools.
Any agriculture mechanics?
- Thread starter just a noob
- Start date
btbsandman
Well-known member
Probably same equipment as the diesel mechanics.
DieselSaves
Well-known member
I think a good torque wrench would be helpful as well as a couple good adjustable wrenches and several styles of long and short picks for seals and o-rings. Flare nut wrenches, temp gun, strap wrench also come to mind. Pretty sure a laptop is mandatory for most new equipment as well.
Ag equipment might have the broadest range of tools needed of any single field that I can think of. If you end up in a smaller dealership you might work on everything from small engines to quad tracked tractors and class eight combines. All the new diesel technology has hit agricultural equipment and that on top of hydraulic systems, threshing equipment, and haying equipment.
We joke here on the farm that the most important tool well need for the newest generation of tractors is the lowboy trailer to get them to the dealership when they break.
bentwrench54
Well-known member
a buddy of mine is a sales rep for Deere, mostly construction equipment, some ag.
the things i've heard about all the new electronics and emissions on these tractors and such... just blows my mind.
Jbullfrog
ALLIANCE MEMBER
If you see a tool, buy, you will use it in an ag shop sometime.
Definitely both standard and metric sockets, there will be 12 point sockets needed. Any more lots of electronic diagnostics so electrical based tools. Flare nut wrenches,crowsfoot wrenches, medium/large adjustables. A good filter wrench. Good selection of pry/pinch bars, good impact. I've seen ag mechanics with a truck load of Snap On tools in his service truck,and also a guy with a truck of Craftsmans, honestly they both got the work done,and the C-man guy was wrenching with a 36 tooth C-man raised panel. I'd probably go and buy Snap On ratchets and flare nut wrenches,etc if nothing else right off. To get into specifics depends on if in large ag equipment or smaller turf/lawn equipment.
Farmall 1066
Well-known member
I'd suggest a damn good multimeter, pin tools, probes to check connectors without damaging them, good crimpers, and a butane soldering iron.
The days of ag mechanicing being mostly nuts, bolts, heavy lifting and grease are fading fast.
As the next generation of Ag mechanics takes over, strong electrical and hydraulic skills will be invaluable. With the current state of affairs, 75% of what you will be doing will be chasing ghost electrical problems.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The days of ag mechanicing being mostly nuts, bolts, heavy lifting and grease are fading fast.
As the next generation of Ag mechanics takes over, strong electrical and hydraulic skills will be invaluable. With the current state of affairs, 75% of what you will be doing will be chasing ghost electrical problems.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
AV tinker er
Well-known member
So maybe some contact cleaner, denatured alcohol, and q tips could be helpful?
Deadhead
Well-known member
I posted this on a different thread "Diesel Mechanics, which tools"
I copied and pasted it here but changed it just a bit.
----------------------
My sae wrenches go up to 1 1/2
Crowsfeet get me up to 2 1/2
Metric wrenches go to 36mm
Crowsfeet gets me on up to 50mm
3/4 drive sockets
SAE up to 2 1/2
Metric up to 50mm
A good pick set
SAE and Metric Line wrenches.
Impact and/or chrome swivels.
Adjustable channelock filter wrench or go get all 6 or 7 sizes of the swivel type. Before its over you will have both.
IR W7150 20v impact. You can thank me later, as I dont know when was the last time I picked up an air gun and an airhose.
A good digital camera to put in your toolbox. I use one all the time to cover my *** when I come upon something that I know will require future attention or explanation. Plus I have been able to crawl underneath something take a high quality image, like 4000x3000 pixels if I need to set it that high, show the boss, customer, co-worker or whoever to keep them from having to crawl under there. I have started attaching them to warranty work and have not had a single problem since.
Hose pliers.
Fuel hose cutoff clamps or pliers.
Seal puller
Top notch snap ring pliers, small to large different angles.
Flat nose snap ring pliers that cover you up to 3" opening.
Once you get some time in and get the tough stuff you will probably need a SAE and Metric Tap and Die Set.
My SAE goes up to 1" Fine and Course
Metric goes to 25 MM Fine and Course.
I use mine several time a week cleaning out threads full of **** as well rusty, siezed, and pulled threads.
A good quality blow gun. I have several that vary in length. One being a 4ft long one to reach down in the frame rails and clean off everything before I try to take something apart.
A decent size roll of heavy string or small rope. When replacing long lines (air,hydraulic, or electrical) I tie the string to one end before I pull the line out. It aids in pulling it back through more that you can imagine.
A small but good first aid kit. Remember this stuff is a lot heavier than the automotive stuff. You will smash a finger. Bolts are tighter and rusted. You will eventually rip some skin earning your wings.
Nice extendable mirror and if its the lite LED version even better.
Numerous magnetic trays I actually took a muffin pan and glued six medium size magnets on the bottom. Best tool I ever made. Now I have 6 small pockets to separate items out in order.
A good drop light. Dont get the one with the standard light bulb. Get the floresant bulb type or the LED version as they will take a beating.
Rechargeable Magnetic/clamp on adjustable light to be support equipment to a headlamp that you will need.
Also I highly recommend the saftey glasses with the LED's made into them. Tried my first pair yesterday and I really like them.
A DAMN GOOD flashlight with LED's. Recommend something rechargeable with a lot of lumens.
A topnotch low profile creeper and roll around stool.
Cotter pin puller
Various hammers.
Pry bars as mentioned. Buy good ones. Dont skimp on these or you will need the first aid kit I talked about earlier.
Punches, chisels, scrapers, and a few files.
A tub of different color zip ties. More colors the better for labeling hoses and fittings to help you remember where it all goes. One on the fitting and one on the end of the hoses.
One of the best things that I have bought this year is the 30ft retractable test leads from Matco with 2 wires. Then I bought the 15ft version with 3 wires that is magnetic on the back. I have been adding more and more to my electrical box as it seems I have gotten the last ten electrical jobs and its great to have all the odd ball test leads that let me hook into just about every connector out there without damaging or cutting into the system. And to go along with that and as mentioned before a good multimeter and learn how to use it if you dont already know. Before its over you will be probing tiny *** wires that run for miles in tractors and combines. Most are numbered and they are hard to see. Get you a good magnifying glass.
Pomona Electronics has about the best multimeter test lead sets and they can get pricey but its well worth it. Check Amazon and Ebay
Radio Shack has a small set for about 25 bucks that will let you get up inside some of the connectors and plug in so that you dont do damage to the harness and I am very very impressed with it. Im to the point that I am buying banana plugs and making my own leads for specific test. By the time you get your electrical box put together you will have a good amount of money in it.
You will handle everything from a T6 torx bit one minute and have a 50mm wrench in your hand 2 minutes later. You have to be very versatile and that is why this type of work is probably the most expensive.... but well worth it.
I could get going but you get the idea.
The first year on the job is going to be TOUGH. Stick it out.
And dont try to be superman picking this heavy **** up. Use a lift or crane or the buddy system. This type of equipment can make an old man out of you really quick and I dont care how old you are.
I copied and pasted it here but changed it just a bit.
----------------------
My sae wrenches go up to 1 1/2
Crowsfeet get me up to 2 1/2
Metric wrenches go to 36mm
Crowsfeet gets me on up to 50mm
3/4 drive sockets
SAE up to 2 1/2
Metric up to 50mm
A good pick set
SAE and Metric Line wrenches.
Impact and/or chrome swivels.
Adjustable channelock filter wrench or go get all 6 or 7 sizes of the swivel type. Before its over you will have both.
IR W7150 20v impact. You can thank me later, as I dont know when was the last time I picked up an air gun and an airhose.
A good digital camera to put in your toolbox. I use one all the time to cover my *** when I come upon something that I know will require future attention or explanation. Plus I have been able to crawl underneath something take a high quality image, like 4000x3000 pixels if I need to set it that high, show the boss, customer, co-worker or whoever to keep them from having to crawl under there. I have started attaching them to warranty work and have not had a single problem since.
Hose pliers.
Fuel hose cutoff clamps or pliers.
Seal puller
Top notch snap ring pliers, small to large different angles.
Flat nose snap ring pliers that cover you up to 3" opening.
Once you get some time in and get the tough stuff you will probably need a SAE and Metric Tap and Die Set.
My SAE goes up to 1" Fine and Course
Metric goes to 25 MM Fine and Course.
I use mine several time a week cleaning out threads full of **** as well rusty, siezed, and pulled threads.
A good quality blow gun. I have several that vary in length. One being a 4ft long one to reach down in the frame rails and clean off everything before I try to take something apart.
A decent size roll of heavy string or small rope. When replacing long lines (air,hydraulic, or electrical) I tie the string to one end before I pull the line out. It aids in pulling it back through more that you can imagine.
A small but good first aid kit. Remember this stuff is a lot heavier than the automotive stuff. You will smash a finger. Bolts are tighter and rusted. You will eventually rip some skin earning your wings.
Nice extendable mirror and if its the lite LED version even better.
Numerous magnetic trays I actually took a muffin pan and glued six medium size magnets on the bottom. Best tool I ever made. Now I have 6 small pockets to separate items out in order.
A good drop light. Dont get the one with the standard light bulb. Get the floresant bulb type or the LED version as they will take a beating.
Rechargeable Magnetic/clamp on adjustable light to be support equipment to a headlamp that you will need.
Also I highly recommend the saftey glasses with the LED's made into them. Tried my first pair yesterday and I really like them.
A DAMN GOOD flashlight with LED's. Recommend something rechargeable with a lot of lumens.
A topnotch low profile creeper and roll around stool.
Cotter pin puller
Various hammers.
Pry bars as mentioned. Buy good ones. Dont skimp on these or you will need the first aid kit I talked about earlier.
Punches, chisels, scrapers, and a few files.
A tub of different color zip ties. More colors the better for labeling hoses and fittings to help you remember where it all goes. One on the fitting and one on the end of the hoses.
One of the best things that I have bought this year is the 30ft retractable test leads from Matco with 2 wires. Then I bought the 15ft version with 3 wires that is magnetic on the back. I have been adding more and more to my electrical box as it seems I have gotten the last ten electrical jobs and its great to have all the odd ball test leads that let me hook into just about every connector out there without damaging or cutting into the system. And to go along with that and as mentioned before a good multimeter and learn how to use it if you dont already know. Before its over you will be probing tiny *** wires that run for miles in tractors and combines. Most are numbered and they are hard to see. Get you a good magnifying glass.
Pomona Electronics has about the best multimeter test lead sets and they can get pricey but its well worth it. Check Amazon and Ebay
Radio Shack has a small set for about 25 bucks that will let you get up inside some of the connectors and plug in so that you dont do damage to the harness and I am very very impressed with it. Im to the point that I am buying banana plugs and making my own leads for specific test. By the time you get your electrical box put together you will have a good amount of money in it.
You will handle everything from a T6 torx bit one minute and have a 50mm wrench in your hand 2 minutes later. You have to be very versatile and that is why this type of work is probably the most expensive.... but well worth it.
I could get going but you get the idea.
The first year on the job is going to be TOUGH. Stick it out.
And dont try to be superman picking this heavy **** up. Use a lift or crane or the buddy system. This type of equipment can make an old man out of you really quick and I dont care how old you are.
My nephew works for one of the big combine companies, and I'm thinking he told me he owns few tools, all work supplied since he is in the "field" a lot fixing stuff on site.
If you like wrenching no point in buying just for work, you will be doing plenty on your own for fun.
If you like wrenching no point in buying just for work, you will be doing plenty on your own for fun.
The tools i could list would go on and on for this job. The most important is using your head though and getting things going even a tempory fix if no parts are available or esp in harvest time when them wheels must keep turning and the farmer is jumping up and down. (Iv learned to ignore them now and just get job done). Good luck.
Heavy Metal Doctor
Well-known member
I've been in a specialty equipment dealer since 95 - its the closest mashup of diesel, construction and AG, IMO.
This ^ is right on the money. Understanding how to read a wiring diagram and not just tracing a wire, but actually understanding the function of the electrical parts is a huge factor. When I started out I had to deal with 1 mfr that used any diodes and relays in the control of some hydraulic circuits and that was about the most complicated thing I dealt with in electrical. I felt kind lost at first. Now, I'd giggle with happiness like a school girl if one of those "basic" machines came in to be repaired. common issues these days deal CanBus controls or having to be very specific about voltage drop when there's about 5 different hydraulic solenoids trying to activate for a function to work just to move one particular item on the machine - the old basic test light won't cut it - get out a meter and do it right.
I also agree with this. Huge variety of tools - get the right stuff to do the work correctly as you encounter the different jobs.
The heavy **** will hurt you if you try to be the he-man. Get some chains / straps and come-along to support heavy parts even when a crane or forklift is not possible to use. I even use small sized ratchet straps.
Also - if no one said it yet - learn to weld if you can't already. JD and other big names will have a lot of most common specialty tools available, but sometimes you will not have it and won't want to hold up the job waiting for it. You WILL want want to cut a cheap wrench in half and weld a piece of steel to it to make your own special tool out of it, or weld up a lifting bracket for some part, not to mention it may well be the way to fix the problem of broken / worn machinery parts.
This ^ is right on the money. Understanding how to read a wiring diagram and not just tracing a wire, but actually understanding the function of the electrical parts is a huge factor. When I started out I had to deal with 1 mfr that used any diodes and relays in the control of some hydraulic circuits and that was about the most complicated thing I dealt with in electrical. I felt kind lost at first. Now, I'd giggle with happiness like a school girl if one of those "basic" machines came in to be repaired. common issues these days deal CanBus controls or having to be very specific about voltage drop when there's about 5 different hydraulic solenoids trying to activate for a function to work just to move one particular item on the machine - the old basic test light won't cut it - get out a meter and do it right.
I also agree with this. Huge variety of tools - get the right stuff to do the work correctly as you encounter the different jobs.
The heavy **** will hurt you if you try to be the he-man. Get some chains / straps and come-along to support heavy parts even when a crane or forklift is not possible to use. I even use small sized ratchet straps.
Also - if no one said it yet - learn to weld if you can't already. JD and other big names will have a lot of most common specialty tools available, but sometimes you will not have it and won't want to hold up the job waiting for it. You WILL want want to cut a cheap wrench in half and weld a piece of steel to it to make your own special tool out of it, or weld up a lifting bracket for some part, not to mention it may well be the way to fix the problem of broken / worn machinery parts.
Besides the basics, here are some good things to start with:
Big *** filter pliers
Chain Wrenches (at least one large, one smaller)
24" Adjustables
3/4" Drive set
Long Breaker Bars
Pry Bars
Hammers (at least a few BP hammers and a 4 lb hammer)
Angle Wrenches and/or Service Wrenches (I like DOE wrenches too)
Big *** filter pliers
Chain Wrenches (at least one large, one smaller)
24" Adjustables
3/4" Drive set
Long Breaker Bars
Pry Bars
Hammers (at least a few BP hammers and a 4 lb hammer)
Angle Wrenches and/or Service Wrenches (I like DOE wrenches too)
Zrexxer
Well-known member
I worked for a John Deere dealer in the late 80's for awhile, and found quickly that while my tools were adequate for automotive-sized work, ag stuff takes BIG tools. I had to scramble to catch up with some big sockets and big wrenches.
When I helped the lead tech do a clutch in a JD 8850, I found out what working on big stuff was really like.
When I helped the lead tech do a clutch in a JD 8850, I found out what working on big stuff was really like.
bobcatdan
Well-known member
Angle wrenches, 1/2" Crowfeet and torque adapters are the tools I use a lot.
OP
just a noob
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Thank you for the advice and lists. I'm planning on getting a fluke 88 sometime in the future(whole kit on ebay is like $350) is it going to be overkill for me?
sberry
Banned
bobcatdan
Well-known member
I wouldn't rush out and buy 3/4" tools. When I worked at Deere, only a couple guys had any, rest used the shop set. Take Deere for example, pretty much held together with 30mm. You will be using normal size sockets most of the time.
I'm not a mechanic but as a farmer I've paid the mechanic plenty and spent enough time in the shop to realize that you will not regret owning a quality electrical meter and electrical crimping tools. Weatherpack, Deutsch, Metripack, etc.
We had a tractor ($250,000 machine) get struck by lighting this summer. The tractor has had every computer, pressure transducer, temperature sensor, solenoid, etc replaced on it since then. The repair bill is nearing $50,000 (thankful for insurance!). I'm not sure the mechanic has used any tool larger than 30mm.
We had a tractor ($250,000 machine) get struck by lighting this summer. The tractor has had every computer, pressure transducer, temperature sensor, solenoid, etc replaced on it since then. The repair bill is nearing $50,000 (thankful for insurance!). I'm not sure the mechanic has used any tool larger than 30mm.
You will want some good liquid filled hydraulic gauges.
0-600 PSI to read charge pressure and brake release pressure on combines, sprayers and skid loaders (maybe 0-1000, some of the newer stuff hits over 600 PSI on the charge circuit at cold start)
0-6000 PSI to read pressure on combine header lift, sprayer boom extend, skid loader aux
0-10,000 PSI to read high pressure on combine drive, sprayer drive and skid loader drive circuits
Full vacuum gauge to double check plugged suction/inlet lines & filters. Best bet here would be a -30 in HG to 100 PSI, makes it harder to spring and wreck a gauge with a little wider range.
Single gauges should run less than $20 each.
Also, half a dozen 1/4" hoses in various lengths from 4-20 feet, QD hydraulic gauge fittings to connect (these are pretty standard) and a really bright light as mentioned above.
The quadrigauge cluster Webster Instruments sells (12-740-008 is the best of the bunch) can be handy. You do limit yourself a little if you only have that thing but need to check more than one thing at a time or are working on a JD sprayer with the drive pressures set up over 7000 PSI.
Another thing to pick up, after you get started and see what sizes and styles you run into the most, will be an assortment/collection of caps and plugs for lines. Makes things a lot simpler if you can pull a cylinder (or whatever) out and cap the lines so they don't drain everywhere and leave a lake of hydraulic oil to continue to work in. Also works well sometimes to plug/cap one function to narrow down problems. Get the steel ones and stamp your name on them, they are a few bucks a piece and worth every penny.
0-600 PSI to read charge pressure and brake release pressure on combines, sprayers and skid loaders (maybe 0-1000, some of the newer stuff hits over 600 PSI on the charge circuit at cold start)
0-6000 PSI to read pressure on combine header lift, sprayer boom extend, skid loader aux
0-10,000 PSI to read high pressure on combine drive, sprayer drive and skid loader drive circuits
Full vacuum gauge to double check plugged suction/inlet lines & filters. Best bet here would be a -30 in HG to 100 PSI, makes it harder to spring and wreck a gauge with a little wider range.
Single gauges should run less than $20 each.
Also, half a dozen 1/4" hoses in various lengths from 4-20 feet, QD hydraulic gauge fittings to connect (these are pretty standard) and a really bright light as mentioned above.
The quadrigauge cluster Webster Instruments sells (12-740-008 is the best of the bunch) can be handy. You do limit yourself a little if you only have that thing but need to check more than one thing at a time or are working on a JD sprayer with the drive pressures set up over 7000 PSI.
Another thing to pick up, after you get started and see what sizes and styles you run into the most, will be an assortment/collection of caps and plugs for lines. Makes things a lot simpler if you can pull a cylinder (or whatever) out and cap the lines so they don't drain everywhere and leave a lake of hydraulic oil to continue to work in. Also works well sometimes to plug/cap one function to narrow down problems. Get the steel ones and stamp your name on them, they are a few bucks a piece and worth every penny.
Jbullfrog
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Hunt for the Snaop-on or Cat double offset wrenches. They are 30 and 60 where al others are 15 like a regular wrench and 60. If you look, you can find them used for reasonable prices.
OP
just a noob
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Would $150 be a good price for this set? since I'm a student i can get most things half off or better sometimes: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...roup_ID=675007&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
OP
just a noob
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Oh, so more like this then? http://store.snapon.com/Four-Way-An...Way-Angle-Head-7-pcs-3-8-to-3-4--P630677.aspx
durallymax
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Not sure how I ended up in this thread but I work on Ag stuff all day at our farm. Its a bit different than at a dealer though because dealers supply a lot of the tools for the shop.
I saw big tools and special crimpers listed above. Most shops supply tools requiring 3/4 drive and larger. Unless you find its something you are using often and its more handy to have for yourself, stick your money elseware. At least wait until you find a job and can see what they shop supplies and what they don't supply.
Most also supply everything for any type of crimping for various connectors. You will want some nice wiring tools for basic crimp connectors but the ones requiring their own dies like Duetsch, metri pak, amp etc the shop often supplies. Same with any special crimps for fluid hoses and such.
The Fluke 88V is a great meter, I just got one a little while ago. Also got loadpro leads and Dans book. I like the way his book is written, helped get me over the hump and into understanding how everything works and how its all connected. Dan absolutely hates the Power Probe III but I as well as many others find its another great tool to have even if it does have a point on it. Dan claims it can only find 20% of issues. In reality both tools are aimed at different tasks, his loads the wire to look for a voltage drop indicating corrosion or bad connection. The power probe supplies power or ground to a circuit which the loadpro leads cannot do. The power probe cannot detect a poor wire as well though because it doesn't load the circuit. The power probe is great for checking operation of things because you can quickly and easily supply power or ground to them. I would get all three tools. The other tools I like for wiring are pistol grip automatic wire strippers. Many companies make them. Snap on something 29 something 9" crimping pliers, its up to you but I reccommend grinding the wire cutter off the end and just carrying a cutter around with you. You will find many instances where that cutter gets in the way as you are trying to crimp a wire, or you may not notice it and you'll cut other wires on accident. Getting rid of the cutter lets you get into tight spots. For a side cutter look at a high leverage Knipex or Twinforce Knipex. High leverage is cheaper and works just as good, you just want that German steel, cuts like butter and never wears out it seems. A wire dismantler is very handy for trailer wire and other multi conductors. Mine is a Knipex but many others like greenlee and such make them as well. Then you will just need a butane heat gun. With those tools you will actually enjoy fixing wires versus hating it with cheap tools.
For hand tools, ratchets are where you want to spend the money. Get a good 1/4" locking flex and 3/8" locking flex. Personally I like Matco 88s, the slim head is much nicer than the Snap-on but I like snap-on's flex lock better. IIRC my 1/4" is 6" and my 3/8" is 11or 13". You will need a 1/2" at some point but honestly I don't find I use mine much because most of that stuff is done with impacts and tightened with torque wrenches. Get a good 3/8 flex stubby too, very handy to have. Or some zyklops.
Sockets are sockets when you are starting out, just buy what you can afford. The big craftsman socket bundle is always a decent deal.
Bit sockets are not created equal though, spend the money on quality bit sockets especially torx. The truck brands are all good, the German brands are great as well. You wont run into a ton of Torx on American equipment, but if you get into foreign stuff you will see a lot of Torx, Torx Plus and XZN. If you are strapped for cash up front just buy some nice bit sets from Wiha. Much cheaper than buying sockets. Not as handy to use but they will get you by.
I suggest not wasting any money on adjustable/crescent wrenches. Buy some Knipex pliers wrenches instead. You will love them for hydraulic lines and such. They work well too unlike a crescent wrench and the ratcheting action is handy for speeding stubborn lines off fast. While you are at it, buy some Knipex Cobras as well, you wont hate using adjustable pliers once you start using those. Great teeth and the self locking box joint is very nice. Other must haves from Knipex are a cobolt mini bolt cutter, I would suggest the 20* offset one with comfort grip handles. And as mentioned before get one of their side cutters. I like all of their pliers but the ones I listed are the ones they really excel above everyone else with. When you need some snap ring pliers look into their precision ones. They only do one direction and one size, may sound not as nice as one that can do multiple but once you start using snap ring pliers that do multiple things you will learn how much of a PITA those things are. It cost a lot to buy all dedicated Knipex ones, but I no longer cringe when I have to deal with a snap ring.
Lots of hammers and pry bars are helpful. Get an indexable pry bar too.
Radiator hose picks come in handy for a lot of things. I got the snap on set when it was a $99 special, love it.
Angle wrenches and crowsfeet will come in handy when working with lines in hard to reach places. Line wrenches are nice too but honestly if you buy good wrenches you wont have much use for a line wrench, at least I haven't ever had a time when I felt I wished I had some. Stubby ratcheting wrenches will come in handy too.
Theres really no answer to what you will need, like others said if you see a tool you probably will have a chance to use it on ag equipment. Some guys like having very few tools and making do with what they have, others like having every tool there is to offer and working with ease but with a bigger investment. Just start out with the basics and add what you find you need from then on.
I saw big tools and special crimpers listed above. Most shops supply tools requiring 3/4 drive and larger. Unless you find its something you are using often and its more handy to have for yourself, stick your money elseware. At least wait until you find a job and can see what they shop supplies and what they don't supply.
Most also supply everything for any type of crimping for various connectors. You will want some nice wiring tools for basic crimp connectors but the ones requiring their own dies like Duetsch, metri pak, amp etc the shop often supplies. Same with any special crimps for fluid hoses and such.
The Fluke 88V is a great meter, I just got one a little while ago. Also got loadpro leads and Dans book. I like the way his book is written, helped get me over the hump and into understanding how everything works and how its all connected. Dan absolutely hates the Power Probe III but I as well as many others find its another great tool to have even if it does have a point on it. Dan claims it can only find 20% of issues. In reality both tools are aimed at different tasks, his loads the wire to look for a voltage drop indicating corrosion or bad connection. The power probe supplies power or ground to a circuit which the loadpro leads cannot do. The power probe cannot detect a poor wire as well though because it doesn't load the circuit. The power probe is great for checking operation of things because you can quickly and easily supply power or ground to them. I would get all three tools. The other tools I like for wiring are pistol grip automatic wire strippers. Many companies make them. Snap on something 29 something 9" crimping pliers, its up to you but I reccommend grinding the wire cutter off the end and just carrying a cutter around with you. You will find many instances where that cutter gets in the way as you are trying to crimp a wire, or you may not notice it and you'll cut other wires on accident. Getting rid of the cutter lets you get into tight spots. For a side cutter look at a high leverage Knipex or Twinforce Knipex. High leverage is cheaper and works just as good, you just want that German steel, cuts like butter and never wears out it seems. A wire dismantler is very handy for trailer wire and other multi conductors. Mine is a Knipex but many others like greenlee and such make them as well. Then you will just need a butane heat gun. With those tools you will actually enjoy fixing wires versus hating it with cheap tools.
For hand tools, ratchets are where you want to spend the money. Get a good 1/4" locking flex and 3/8" locking flex. Personally I like Matco 88s, the slim head is much nicer than the Snap-on but I like snap-on's flex lock better. IIRC my 1/4" is 6" and my 3/8" is 11or 13". You will need a 1/2" at some point but honestly I don't find I use mine much because most of that stuff is done with impacts and tightened with torque wrenches. Get a good 3/8 flex stubby too, very handy to have. Or some zyklops.
Sockets are sockets when you are starting out, just buy what you can afford. The big craftsman socket bundle is always a decent deal.
Bit sockets are not created equal though, spend the money on quality bit sockets especially torx. The truck brands are all good, the German brands are great as well. You wont run into a ton of Torx on American equipment, but if you get into foreign stuff you will see a lot of Torx, Torx Plus and XZN. If you are strapped for cash up front just buy some nice bit sets from Wiha. Much cheaper than buying sockets. Not as handy to use but they will get you by.
I suggest not wasting any money on adjustable/crescent wrenches. Buy some Knipex pliers wrenches instead. You will love them for hydraulic lines and such. They work well too unlike a crescent wrench and the ratcheting action is handy for speeding stubborn lines off fast. While you are at it, buy some Knipex Cobras as well, you wont hate using adjustable pliers once you start using those. Great teeth and the self locking box joint is very nice. Other must haves from Knipex are a cobolt mini bolt cutter, I would suggest the 20* offset one with comfort grip handles. And as mentioned before get one of their side cutters. I like all of their pliers but the ones I listed are the ones they really excel above everyone else with. When you need some snap ring pliers look into their precision ones. They only do one direction and one size, may sound not as nice as one that can do multiple but once you start using snap ring pliers that do multiple things you will learn how much of a PITA those things are. It cost a lot to buy all dedicated Knipex ones, but I no longer cringe when I have to deal with a snap ring.
Lots of hammers and pry bars are helpful. Get an indexable pry bar too.
Radiator hose picks come in handy for a lot of things. I got the snap on set when it was a $99 special, love it.
Angle wrenches and crowsfeet will come in handy when working with lines in hard to reach places. Line wrenches are nice too but honestly if you buy good wrenches you wont have much use for a line wrench, at least I haven't ever had a time when I felt I wished I had some. Stubby ratcheting wrenches will come in handy too.
Theres really no answer to what you will need, like others said if you see a tool you probably will have a chance to use it on ag equipment. Some guys like having very few tools and making do with what they have, others like having every tool there is to offer and working with ease but with a bigger investment. Just start out with the basics and add what you find you need from then on.
I work on it all day and find the most important out of the ordinary things are a set of 13-32 spanners cut in half these are used for getting in tight spaces or with a long long tube on them when a socket and breaker wont work also flare nut wrenches in large sizes for working on hydraulic spool valves also a long length of blue rope to hand for when replacing hydraulic lines without removing panels and the like
oilslick
Well-known member
Old thread but , I am just now switching to being a ag dealer mechanic. Looks like I’ll be working on everything from a combine down to a hustler zero turn mower. Definitely going to require adding to my tool collection as previously being an auto tech. I’ll be in the shop while farmers aren’t in the fields and in a service truck while they are. Thanks for any tool advice, I start job in a week or so.
Ton ton
Well-known member
Ag mechanics are a rare breed on garage journal. I wish there was more of them. Just my 2 cents.
I'm not a certified ag tech but I work on farm equipment almost every day. I mainly work on JD tractors because that's what I was raised on and what I currently farm with.
I work mainly on 55 series and older tractors. For those you need several pressure gauges and fittings. 0-100, 0-300 and a 0-3000 will cover most hydraulic tests. Downside to ag is that you need 1/4 to 3/4 socket sets plus small to large wrenches.
I did an out of frame overhaul on a JD4055 this spring. I used every socket set I had and needed a 41" 3/4 breaker bar. It comes second nature to me wanting to fix what's broken but it really surprised me how little some (not all) farmers know about wrenching.
Ag mechanics, in my opinion, is the hardest field. With today's computers on tractors and combines, it's not just turning wrenches. You have to have knowledge on electronics, engines, hydraulics and power train. It's like a jack of all trades.
I work mainly on 55 series and older tractors. For those you need several pressure gauges and fittings. 0-100, 0-300 and a 0-3000 will cover most hydraulic tests. Downside to ag is that you need 1/4 to 3/4 socket sets plus small to large wrenches.
I did an out of frame overhaul on a JD4055 this spring. I used every socket set I had and needed a 41" 3/4 breaker bar. It comes second nature to me wanting to fix what's broken but it really surprised me how little some (not all) farmers know about wrenching.
Ag mechanics, in my opinion, is the hardest field. With today's computers on tractors and combines, it's not just turning wrenches. You have to have knowledge on electronics, engines, hydraulics and power train. It's like a jack of all trades.
Ton ton
Well-known member
May I suggest a fine tooth 3/4" ratchet? I will leave the brand up to you. I despise coarse tooth 3/4" ratchets. Just my 2 cents.
XJSuperman
Well-known member
It all starts with a laptop.....then you get out the tools.
Cordless impacts both 1/2 and 3/4 drives, and there will be times a 1" drive is needed. Hopefully that new service truck is stocked and they'll have you all set up.
All the sockets and wrenches mentioned are correct.
Cordless impacts both 1/2 and 3/4 drives, and there will be times a 1" drive is needed. Hopefully that new service truck is stocked and they'll have you all set up.
All the sockets and wrenches mentioned are correct.
RedneckWelder
Well-known member
See what your work provides before shelling out money
hit up flea markets for the big stuff. everybody thinks diesel means big tools and it does but you still spend a lot of quality time with your 3/8 and 1/4 drive sockets and your automotive experience will serve you extremely well for getting into tight spaces
if you work for a bigger brand they often relabel quality tools as their brand. JD does. Cat relabels Snap On for their brand. I think CaseIH does too but dont know much about them. Brands also usually have their own specialty tools to get, some of which you need and some of which you don’t.
being a diesel/heavy equipment mechanic has been the best and most fun job I’ve ever had, and I wish I lived in an ag heavy area to get into that also.
Nthill93
Well-known member
If you want to get a feel for it watch western truck and tractor repair.
homebuilt burner
Well-known member
A big lunch box the days can get long.
A blue tarp or two, you can make a sun shade or to lay on in the mud/snow (plywood helps as well).
insulated bibs if you’re on the road in the winter/late fall.
A blue tarp or two, you can make a sun shade or to lay on in the mud/snow (plywood helps as well).
insulated bibs if you’re on the road in the winter/late fall.