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any alignment techs here?

TDWendt

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Toledo, OH
Typical sizes of wrenches used when under the rack?

Want to start expanding just in case I get a shot at alignment bay.

Any other tools you suggest?

Im Preety set for general service stuff but I've been wanting to get on an alignment rack since college(circa 2005). And I know my wrenches stop @ 21mm currently.
 
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celticbhoy

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One thing i'd definitely recommend is a good sized pipe wrench to break loose the tie rod sleeve. Sometimes those things are welded on there and have only gotten them off in the past by using a pipe wrench.
 

Frosthy

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I'm not an alignment pro by any means, but for most "Set toe and go" Alignments, I use a 12" Knipex Pliers Wrench" to break jam nuts loose and a set of 10" Cobra's to do teh adjusting.

We don't have salt on the roads or much rust down here in FL, so we don't have many issues with frozen bolts though.
 
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TDWendt

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One thing i'd definitely recommend is a good sized pipe wrench to break loose the tie rod sleeve. Sometimes those things are welded on there and have only gotten them off in the past by using a pipe wrench.

Got one! But Good advise for anyone else that reads this. We have an oxyactelyne torch at th e shop too.
 

Wrench 2201

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I have needed as large as a 27mm but I can't remember what that was for. Usually up to 24mm is good. Other tools that come to mind are; 12" & 18" pipe wrenches, propane torch, a tie-rod wrench from Kastar http://tinyurl.com/nmd2wme (Snap-On sells a re-brand), a BFH-5 from Matco and a set of deep swivel impact sockets in 1/2" drive from 19mm-24mm. For car with the split tie rod sleeves you will want some of the funky tie-rod adjusters like these, http://tinyurl.com/ozqnasv.
 

Wrench 2201

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Also a tie rod rattler bit for your air hammer might help but I usually just heat them up with propane and they come loose just fine.
 

celticbhoy

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Also I don't know what you guys think about this, but perhaps a file set or rotory tool to enlarge holes to adjust camber if shims aren't an option?
 

Wrench 2201

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Lots of cars the camber isn't adjustable. I've found that if the camber is non-adjustable and out of spec then something is usually bent.
 

skulldrinker

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Dec 25, 2011
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Bolingbrook, IL
Typical sizes of wrenches used when under the rack?

Want to start expanding just in case I get a shot at alignment bay.

Any other tools you suggest?

Im Preety set for general service stuff but I've been wanting to get on an alignment rack since college(circa 2005). And I know my wrenches stop @ 21mm currently.


I just did my Santa Fe and the rear toe took a 22mm.... or maybe it was a 21mm I forget. Either way you need to go a little bigger I think.
 
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Drew_flux

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sydney Australia
monkey wrench and a 12" shifter for most alignment jobs. when vehicles are adjustable in the rear, 16-21mm spanners. also keep the oxy set in close distance. 2
 

capswin

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Also a tie rod rattler bit for your air hammer might help but I usually just heat them up with propane and they come loose just fine.

Never heat front end parts that you plan on re-using. Spray with good penetrating oil (PB Blaster) and vibrate with the air hammer. I've never had one that wouldn't come loose.

I try to stay away from pipe wrenches. Use the tool for tie rod sleeves because that actually spreads them while move them.

Never use Knipex, Channel Locks etc on nuts. Use the right size quality wrench. A good (Snap-On, Matco etc) wrench won't slip and cause "busted knuckle syndrome.

Most vehicles that I work on (sedans, pick'm'ups) use 13 14 15 mm and 20 21 23 mm. Some use a little larger.
Snap-on has a good selection on specialized tools for front end work. I'm sure that other quality tool companies do too. I find that if you're gonna do this work professionally, you'll end up saving time with the best quality tools that you can get. (Remember, in this business TIME= $ )
 

scarney1988

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I usually need....

19-24mm for jam nuts and sleeves
12-15mm for adjustments
Long 1/2" breaker bar
Various Sockets
Nice gloves (ones that protect the knuckles)
Anti-sieze for future alignments
PB Blaster
Torch


Good luck.
 

Larwyn

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Texas
It has been many years since I was in the alignment pit but the one indispensable tool (at that time) in my box was my 'Parrot Nose" Channel Locks.
pnclock.jpg
 

jfcasey

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If you guys see toyota's your gonna want a 27mm and a 32mm for adjusting late model tundras. Also a pair of snap on pwz pliers/wrenches would be great to have for old rusty tie rods that won't take a wrench. If you don't wanna spend that money then like the guy above me said atleast get a pair of parrot beaks. Way better than Knipex/ plain channel locks in my opinion.

I also use 1/2 swivel sockets pretty often for loosening/tightening knuckles to adjust camber on small cars. A swivel socket on a 6" extension will get to just about any pinch bolt.
 

SKAutomotive

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Alignment tech? Man I want to work in a shop where I can pass alignments off to other guys. Every place I worked at I am a do-everything-tech.
 

jfcasey

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Alignment tech? Man I want to work in a shop where I can pass alignments off to other guys. Every place I worked at I am a do-everything-tech.

I was thinking that too, but the other way. I love alignments. Our shop pitches 1.5 hrs for all alignments whether its toe and go or not. I don't think I've ever seen one take even an hour WITH tierods getting repalced. :rocker:
 

SKAutomotive

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I was thinking that too, but the other way. I love alignments. Our shop pitches 1.5 hrs for all alignments whether its toe and go or not. I don't think I've ever seen one take even an hour WITH tierods getting repalced. :rocker:

I have worked on NH cars. Bless your heart.
 

volvo92906

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Alignment tech? Man I want to work in a shop where I can pass alignments off to other guys. Every place I worked at I am a do-everything-tech.

Likewise. But where I live now they have 'alignment techs' and I think it is stupid, and if their guy isnt there, no alignments. As easy as they are to do, the guy who is 'the guy' is the winner in that situation.

Anyhow, for the OP. As many stated 20 to 24mm. 27mm. (and others have said something bigger for the Tundras?)

Pipe wrench and some channel locks.

Get a couple size prybars too for when youre adjusting. They come in handy. And if youre getting all into it, a grinder since a lot of cars (including my Government Motors one) dont have a factory adjustment, but rather a procedure to grind out a hole to make an adjustment.
 
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jfcasey

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Just wanted to swing back in here to say please make sure you are doing the adjustments correctly. For instance when you are adjusting rear toe on a vehicle with 2 jam nuts, one on either side of the adjuster, make sure you are holding the adjuster with one wrench while tightening the jam nut with another. I have seen rear toe adjusters rip apart from being tightened incorrectly and end up leaving the wheel hanging off the back of the car.

If you get a Rav4 and you see labels/clips on the rear suspension for instance, what I just said is why they are there. We had more than one come in on the hook with a back wheel barely holding on.
 

Wrench 2201

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Never heat front end parts that you plan on re-using.

That is why I only use a propane bottle torch on alignments. Its really hard to heat up metal to the point where you'll do any damage with one of those. I do get what you are saying though, most guys grab a torch and don't stop until the piece being heated is red hot.
 

joedodge

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Snap on Pwz series pliers I have sizes 1 and 2 there absolute beasts for alignment work especially northern ones.
 

wise

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I'm surprised your shop (or any shop) would have a dedicated alignment tech. When I was in automotive, we obviously had people walk in for just an alignment, but usually it was pared with tire change overs, oil changes, funny noise diagnostics, steering/suspension repair, etc, and whoever was looking for a job and it was in line got it.
 

cyarm

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edmonton
Ha no heating of front end parts. In school they preach it, but in the real world you're not going to tell a customer you need a whole front end because we have to use heat on the parts. I well never use anything but the right size wrench on an align. Just used a 27 mm on the rear of a Mercedes ml320 today. Also a 19 mm and 13 mm as well.
 

DiscoBerry

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Jun 5, 2010
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21 22 24 13 19 18 17 15 12 14, vise grips, tierod turning tool, pipe wrench, prybars, and most importantly a oxy acetlyene torch
 

reptilezs

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People in New England would be replacing entire suspensions annually.

yea i live in boston. coworker just got his jeep in for an alignment, 4 tires and new shocks. they had 3 guys working on it heat and beat. impact gun. it was at the end of the day though so i bet the guys wanted to go home.
 

czgunner

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I can't believe that the "alignment tech" has anything to do most days.
We don't really sell many alignments w/out new tires or front end work.
 

moparfan

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Oct 3, 2009
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I am currently the alignment tech at the shop i work at. 90% of front toe and go alignments need a 22 and 13 mm wrench, spend the money on the snap on flank drive, they really do help. Trailblazers use a 24 and 26 mm usually but good luck with those, never seem to want to turn. The tie rod adjusting tools that look like a B was cut out of a piece of steel and a good half inch ratchet is also a must. Don't try and use slip joint pliers or a pipe wrench on sleeves with the slit in them, the rusted ones will break or crush. With those you're going to need a 13 and 15 mm socket and wrench. Make sure you heat anything that won't turn, but cool it off before you set toe for good. Also if you heat one side only, the wheel will probably be off when you drive it. I have more tricks and tips and you can pm me for any questions you have. Best of luck brother
 
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TDWendt

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I'm surprised your shop (or any shop) would have a dedicated alignment tech. When I was in automotive, we obviously had people walk in for just an alignment, but usually it was pared with tire change overs, oil changes, funny noise diagnostics, steering/suspension repair, etc, and whoever was looking for a job and it was in line got it.

Our shop does a minimum 100 alignments a day. We actually have 2 alignment techs, we'll one dedicated alignment tech who's on the rack from 8am-5pm M-F and one that runs it when he leaves for the day and weekends, the "back up" also does general services stuff like the rest of us.

Thanks guys, im gonna talking my shop manager about doing more than the basics hopefully tomorrow, I didn't get my automotive degree to do tires and oil changes all day and make $9.00/hr(that's another thing im gonna mention is paying me like a human). I wanna show him I can do more, and want o do more

Tips on tools are great! O
 

czgunner

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100 a day?
Where the heck do you work that you have that customer base? China?
 
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TDWendt

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RWe'll maybe not quite a hundred but at least 60- 70 we have 22 Bays in our shop

Not every car sells, but all get checked on the rack before we get em.
 

xurusaibobx

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if your doing 60 alignments a day with 2 racks thats like 3-4 an hour


even if all were toe and go you would still need hunters newest clamp on rim equipment to bust out numbers like that...and even at that rate i would hate doing alignments


our shop we do about 6-10 alignments a day on 1 rack but we do have the newest equipment which makes it so much easier then the old style rim clamps. a typical hawkeye clamp on tire setup u can toe and go within 5 minutes flat... from roll on to roll off


alignments are fun but once you have to start doing front end work along with alignments it gets boring fast. beating on parts with a BFH etc it *****. i rather do a timing belt then slave over a stuck tie rod or adjusting rear camber on a benz etc etc


European cars your going need triple squares and some special tools to do adjustments each manufacture likes to make there own tools.
 
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