To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

any alignment techs here?

jredmond1107

Active member
Joined
May 7, 2012
Messages
43
I am the dedicated alignment tech where I am at. All I do is 4 wheel alignments and install aftermarket parts (Specialty Products Company or the Raybestos/ACDelco rebrand parts) I thought this was the way to go when I started. Yes, I have "dead time" some days but the busy days make up for it. I can relate to getting paid like a human, this is the first time in the industry my checks were more than a consistent 500 bucks. I love what I do. If you don't have any common sense or control of your heat source you will fail. You can adjust camber front and rear in cars w non-slotted 2-hole struts by installing SPC's Cam Bolt in the upper hole- easy sell and takes 5 mins doubling the cost of the alignment. You need: Toe Hooks, Snapon is good but honestly the HF ones aint bad they stick on the sleeves and you have to tap them off though. You will need a slide hammer/ and an air hammer, to help with rear shims (also a good money maker if you get fast at them like me). Wrenches- SOLID ones no cheap bs and long pattern up to 32 mm bc trust me they are out there get yourself a cheater pipe too and LEARN how to use the torch well, the difference between a melted part and a part that comes loose and goes back in one piece is skill. A spray bottle and a blow gun too since time is money and you will need to cool down in a hurry, if in a real hurry use brakekleen- trust me sounds crazy but will cool the part down in a matter of seconds. A mechanics stool is nice for setting toe if youre lazy at times. like me lol. For rear cam bolts I use a long 1/2 ratchet or lately been using my Gearwrench XL Gearbox wrenches. If you use the big stupid monster snapon 1/2 ratchet the flexhead one on a cam bolt frozen in the bushing you will snap it in half and be hating your life for a while. If it won't go ship it to a frame shop too many snapped bolts and youll be bye-bye. A good 3/8 impact wrench and swivel sockets/extensions is a must I have a cordless 3/8 too but that's not necessary. Carbide bits yes rare but you can make money up-selling slotting upper strut plates etc- don't be an idiot and go blow half your check a week on the snapon truck. the only things of value to you that cannot be procured cheaper elsewhere if youre an alignment tech and only do alignments are:Flank Drive Plus Wrenches, Snap-On PWZ1 and pwz2, their toe hooks, and their long flexhead 1/2 ratchet. If you are really at a high volume place like me Knipex Pliers wrenches are great for repetitive movements on low-rust parts if not get the big and small Channelock nutbusters also known as "parrot nose" pliers. Prybars, don't waste your money on truck brands- those OTC ones are sturdy and so are the Mayhew and Craftsman brands. Last, a Harbor Freight cutoff wheel for accurate cuts on shims (sometimes you need to go in between the slots on the shim plate) and impact sockets- I know what its like to have to get all this stuff on a budget so that should reflect in my advice I gave you. Good luck-from an ASE Certified Undercar Specialist and Hunter Engineering trained Wheel Alignment specialist. By the way I can and have done 5 toe and go alignments in an hr- with the rim clamp targets- the new stuff must be nice- bet I could do ten in an hr with that. I try to upsell aftermarket adjustments though-that's where the real cash is.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

devan7815

Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2013
Messages
18
I don't know how much this advice is worth but I'll offer some general guidelines rather than specific tool recommendations. Try to use tools that flex and/or slip the least in all circumstances. Rounding of fasteners is what you're trying to avoid at all costs. You're dealing with fairly high torque in most cases so you'll be looking for the most robust tool you can fit in there especially when trying to get things broken free.
There is so much good advice on this thread as it stands that I'm afraid I can't go any farther.
It amazes me how that we as technicians take so many different paths to the same end. So tool selection will take some trial and error as personal preference will be the ultimate deciding factor.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

jfcasey

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 30, 2010
Messages
1,358
Location
New Hampshire
I never thought about it till I got pissed trying to loosen a tie rod today but something that would go a LONG way would be those adapters you put in the box end of a combo wrench then grab with another wrench/socket to add length without using a cheater bar. If you used a flexible breaker bar you could get better angles that wont involve the risk of taking the corner of the stop plate from tgoing into the back of your bicept :shocking:
 

Caleb T

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 17, 2011
Messages
496
Location
Upstate NY
I am the only alignment guy where I work, and the most common sizes I use are 22mm and 13mm. I also use 15/16 a lot. BY FAR the best tool for the alignment rack is the oxy accet. torches! I live in upstate NY, and I rarely get the pleasure of meeting a rust free vehicle! I believe MAC ahs a set that is something like 22-28mm.. One day I"ll have to grab that one...
 

CWP1616L

Banned
Joined
Aug 31, 2012
Messages
3,297
Location
USA
I live in upstate NY, and I rarely get the pleasure of meeting a rust free vehicle!

I heard somewhere that if you heat the part up with a torch and then melt candle wax on it, it'll **** the wax into the places that are seized up. I never tried it, but it sounds interesting.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom