Any Amsoil Preferred Customers?

[Olympus]

I just decided to take the plunge into Amsoil, at least for all my "toys". I've got a compact tractor, a Polaris Ranger UTV, a Kawasaki Prairie ATV, my son has a little a little Polaris 50 ATV, and I've also got a big Ferris zero turn mower. I decided that since those are all things I plan on keeping for a long time, I might try switching everything over to Amsoil. I paid $10 for their 6-month preferred customer program and saved $62 it said on my order. I ordered enough fluids for every piece of equipment to have one oil change and one ******/differential change. If I decide to continue with Amsoil, I may start switching my personal vehicles over to Amsoil. But right now, my wife and I trade cars every 4 years, so I've just been using the cheap SuperTech oil at Walmart for our vehicles.

Anyone else an Amsoil preferred customer or use Amsoil?

 

[polizei1]

Yep, been using it for years. IMO, Amsoil is the best. That said, my oil changes are ~$70, I'm highly considering switching to Mobil1 that you can get at Walmart, which is a 5-quart jug and filter (with rebate) for ~$20. I do prefer the ease of online ordering though!

 

[volvosrock]

Using it for years. Of course it’s anecdotal, but I have a Volvo 3.2l engine and had a Chryco 3.8l engine in the fleet. Both supposed oil consumers, with the Amsoil OE line, neither used/uses much if any.


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[Tinkerman66]

But right now, my wife and I trade cars every 4 years, so I've just been using the cheap SuperTech oil at Walmart for our vehicles.

This is exactly why I tell the wife that buying a used vehicle is a **** shoot. You don't know what the ******* before you did or didn't do to the vehicle.

 

[Olympus]

This is exactly why I tell the wife that buying a used vehicle is a **** shoot. You don't know what the ******* before you did or didn't do to the vehicle.

Are you implying I’m an *******?

 

[blair683]

I use Mobil1 in my vehicles and Rotella in my toys that have a wet clutch. I use royal purple gear oil in my differentials. I agree that Amsoil is probably good but not 3-5x the price of other top brands good. For what it’s worth, a buddy of mine had his transmission flushed in his 2014 Silverado 3500 just to convert it to Amsoil. Two weeks later his transmission went out. I understand it most likely did not have to do with Amsoil.

 

[Schurkey]

I went from ~13K oil changes on my Trailblazer, to changing the filter at ~13K, topping off the oil, and then changing oil and filter at ~26K. I've done this since switching to Amsoil XL. Vehicle currently has about 226K on it.

Reminds me that I'm due for oil service on the Trailblazer. Last I looked, the oil-life monitor was down to 4%. Planning to send off an oil sample if it's oil-change time.
Edit: Just a filter and top-off tonight. No oil sample.

Like you, I started with the $10/6-month plan. Bought a shitload of oil for all the vehicles in my personal fleet. I let my membership expire, because I had a year's supply. When I got low, I signed up again and placed a big order. My membership is currently expired, but when I get low--and that won't be soon--I'll pay for the membership again, and place another big order.

I buy mainly the 5W-30XL in 4-gallon cases, along with a 4-gallon case or two of 10W40 motorcycle oil, some gear lube, (I used a lot of gear lube before I fixed the leak on the front differential) and some incidentals--air compressor oil, 2-stroke lube for a chainsaw, funnels and pour-spouts, etc.

Haven't bought ATF or anti-freeze from them. I've used their chassis grease, I've had a can or two of aerosol lube, I bought one bottle of cooling system additive that I still haven't used. None of their products are "bad"--but it's the engine oil and compressor oil that keep me coming back.

 

[Done That]

Just bought some Severe Gear 75W140 and friction modifier for the Mustang diff today. Also run their MTF in the manual 6-speed, it's excellent.

I pretty much stick with Mobil1 and Pennzoil syn from Wal-Mart for oil changes.

Cars are at 198k, 140k, 134k and 140k miles.

 

[BMW Rider]

I started using Amsoil a few years ago in my motorcycles mainly because as a preferred customer I could buy it for less than the semi synthetic oil at the motorcycle shops. I'm now running in everything except my wife's car which gets dealer provided service under warranty. I like that I can order what I need and it shows up on my doorstep a day or two later. I have no complaints and the products are top quality. The Z-Rod oil they make is perfect for my Mustang too with its non-roller cam.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

I use it in everything from my lawn mowers, to my 1989 Jeep YJ, my 2005 Duramax and my Yanmar diesel tractors...and my shop compressors.
No complaints, all is good so far.

 

[volvosrock]

I use Mobil1 in my vehicles and Rotella in my toys that have a wet clutch. I use royal purple gear oil in my differentials. I agree that Amsoil is probably good but not 3-5x the price of other top brands good. For what it’s worth, a buddy of mine had his transmission flushed in his 2014 Silverado 3500 just to convert it to Amsoil. Two weeks later his transmission went out. I understand it most likely did not have to do with Amsoil.

It’s not 3-5x price more than other top shelf, as a preferred customer, oil changes in my Volvo, with a Mahl or Mann filter is $45 or so....(7.5 quarts)


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[Olympus]

It’s not 3-5x price more than other top shelf, as a preferred customer, oil changes in my Volvo, with a Mahl or Mann filter is $45 or so....(7.5 quarts)


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It's almost exactly double the price of Mobil 1 for me. I can get the 5qt jug of Mobil 1 5w20 at Walmart for $22.88 and 5 quarts of the Signature Series Amsoil is $46.25 getting the preferred member discount. But if I'm able to extend my service intervals with the Amsoil then it's really about a wash then I guess.

 

[mcbane]

I only use amsoil in my merceded unimog transmission because that is the only oil that doesnt grind gears when cold. I have no idea how well it works otherwise but I assume that when you hear grinding gears you are spending money that makes the price of oil seem cheap.

 

[racinfarmer]

Are you implying I’m an *******?

Yes.

 

[volvosrock]

It's almost exactly double the price of Mobil 1 for me. I can get the 5qt jug of Mobil 1 5w20 at Walmart for $22.88 and 5 quarts of the Signature Series Amsoil is $46.25 getting the preferred member discount. But if I'm able to extend my service intervals with the Amsoil then it's really about a wash then I guess.

I run the OE line in the Volvos (5k intervals, could be 7.5k according to Volvo) and the euro line in the Mercedes, the tractor gets all amsoil as well. But I don’t drive much, 10k a year on the Merc (1 oci) and about 12k a year on the Volvo. If I drove more it could be cost prohibitive, I guess.


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[n20junkie]

I use the amsoil compressor oil in my race transmission. I buy the preferred customer plan and get a bunch of stuff through that year.

For engine oil, Wally Mobile 1 is the way to go IMHO. 1,200 hp out of a stock SBC block and the bearings look brand new after each season.

 

[HMCFab9]

I've used amsoil in the past...but it was a bit of a hassle to get it, so I mostly use mobil1.

A friend is a dealer & he always promoted the extended drain intervals. The 3 cars I have that I buy more expensive oil for.... never get anywhere near 1000 miles in a year on them, & I change oil a minimum of once a year on them anyway (to get rid of condensation) so the extended drain interval was of no use to me.

I've tried the compressor oil, but it almost seemed like the sight glass showed More condensation with amsoil than not, so I stopped using it. I haven't figured out if the oil was the issue, or the compressor usage at the time.

One of their products that I do like is the racing grease. It seems to be considerably higher quality than others I've tried.

I might go back to amsoil in the future, but as of right now, it doesn't seem cost efficient, even with preferred membership.

 

[yeldogt]

my brother is the poster boy on how good modern oil is ....

..... I have never understood this snake oil mentality ... but humans have always love it.


My first job was in the refining of hydraulic fluids and I'm still friends with one guy in the industry .... if all these special products did what they say for the tiny cost of using a different oil (or additive ) .... every manufacturer would use them.

 

[Olympus]

my brother is the poster boy on how good modern oil is ....

..... I have never understood this snake oil mentality ... but humans have always love it.


My first job was in the refining of hydraulic fluids and I'm still friends with one guy in the industry .... if all these special products did what they say for the tiny cost of using a different oil (or additive ) .... every manufacturer would use them.

I do tend to agree. Apparently I’m an ******* for doing so, but I’ve been using the Walmart Supertech for at least 15 years on various vehicles and changing the oil and filter every 5k miles and never had a lick of trouble. One job I had I drove a LOT and used my personal vehicle, Honda Ridgline at the time, I put over 200k miles on that truck and always used the Supertech. It was the best, most reliable vehicle I ever had. Aside from preventative maintenance and wearables, it never had one single issue.

I truly think if you use a regular Dino oil and change every 3-5k miles, you would not see any difference between it and a full synthetic oil. I think you do get longer service intervals with full synthetic and I’ve seen a lot of guys say they get better cold starting in below freezing temps with full synthetics.

I know for me, it’s more of a warm fuzzy feeling than anything. On my machines that I know I’m keeping for the long haul, I just feel better knowing they’re using Amsoil. But that could be a total illusion though. But they say perception is reality, so there’s that.

With my daily drivers, we trade every 4 years and I’ll probably stick with the “*******” Supertech oils and change every 5k miles like I’ve always done. If something negative happens in the future, I may reevaluate. But right now, that seems to be working out just fine for me.

 

[58Yeoman]

When I bought my 14 Tacoma, the previous a**hole had only put less than 7000 miles on it, so I doubt that he did anything to harm it. LOL. And, he had the Toyota dealer do any work on it. His other cars were a Merc and a Lexus.

 

[Schurkey]

A friend is a dealer & he always promoted the extended drain intervals. The 3 cars I have that I buy more expensive oil for.... never get anywhere near 1000 miles in a year on them, & I change oil a minimum of once a year on them anyway (to get rid of condensation) so the extended drain interval was of no use to me.

What condensation? That's what the PCV system is for. You drive that car for twenty miles so that the oil temp comes up to typical operating temperature, there is no condensation.

I've got vehicles that get less than a thousand miles a year. They go multiple years on the same oil.

 

[Browneye]

I've never heard anyone complain about amsoil product. Most don't like the multi-level marketing retailing concept. And it's a PITA to get it, and costly. You stop into wally-fart and get M1 for about $25. Oh well. And I've been using amsoil since they came out in the 70's. I'm just a customer, not a fanboy. It goes in the really expensive toys, otherwise, pfft.

I went to order amsoil for my chevy colorado, with some fuel treatment and shipping it was going to be $72. I thought gee, that's ridiculous. Went to walmart and got 5 quarts of valvoline full syn and a bottle of techron and it was $35.

I've never done extended intervals. Longest was a BMW E46 that went about 6500 miles, that's about the longest. Oil is cheap, motors are not. It's not much effort to just change it with a new filter than fiddle with an oil analysis - and I would not do any extended drain intervals without one at some point - you have no idea where your oil sits with it's additive package. For all you know it's gone and your motor is eating itself.

 

[wannabridin]

I used to be a dealer for it, but couldn't drum up any business, even selling at cost, ha!

It's all great stuff, but I usually wait for Mobil 1 to go on sale and use that in my vehicles, as I can get it for almost half of Amsoil's discount. Can't complain with that at all, and the quality differences are negligible.

I used Rotella T6 for most of my motorcycles and my Jetta TDi and that stuff is regularly less than $20/gal and it's about as good as you can get.

For what I need, Amsoil simply isn't worth it when I can get Mobil 1 on sale at almost a moment's notice.

 

[capww8]

I use MOTUL in my Ducati, Liqui-Moly in my Mercedes Diesel, and BMW M TwinPower (which I think is Shell) in my M3.

I kinda doubt it makes any difference in any of them.

 

[kelpaso1]

I think Amsoil is the Avon for women's products.

 

[rshadd]

I used Amsoil for a few years but now use Mobil 1.

I drive less then 1000 miles per year so their extended interval means nothing to me. I would buy a case (12 quarts) and two filters every other year so their membership scheme just isn't practical for me. It's a great product, just a hassle to get.

 

[Olympus]

Not sure what everyone means when they say it’s a hassle to get. You order online and it’s delivered to your door. Doesn’t get much easier than that.

 

[Schurkey]

I've never done extended intervals. Longest was a BMW E46 that went about 6500 miles, that's about the longest. Oil is cheap, motors are not. It's not much effort to just change it with a new filter than fiddle with an oil analysis - and I would not do any extended drain intervals without one at some point

But two or three oil analyses, and you're pretty-much good-to-go with doubling or tripling your change intervals for the rest of your time with that vehicle.

If you're dumping the vehicle in a couple of years...change oil, I guess. If you're keeping the vehicle long-term (My '92 Lumina was bought used, 6,000 miles and six months old), then oil samples and extended drain intervals make for huge savings in time, money, effort.

 

[Browneye]

But two or three oil analyses, and you're pretty-much good-to-go with doubling or tripling your change intervals for the rest of your time with that vehicle.

If you're dumping the vehicle in a couple of years...change oil, I guess. If you're keeping the vehicle long-term (My '92 Lumina was bought used, 6,000 miles and six months old), then oil samples and extended drain intervals make for huge savings in time, money, effort.

That makes sense, and I tend to agree. Even more if you drive a lot. My cars see about 5K a year. And everybody says annually for time deterioration. Even Amsoil.

If'n y'all want info on oil go here: www.bobistheoilguy.com

 

[roscoe2000]

I used Amsoil for a number of years even as a preferred buyer. I only stopped after having a second shipment with the wrong address. So it became to much of a hassle. I now use Royal Purple for my car and zero-turn and Rotella for the diesel pickup

 

[tonyciambrone]

Supertech is API SN rated.. Don't know what's so offensive about it. I put it in my cub cadet and my mom's car

 

[James-W]

I have been using Mobil-1 along with a Mobil-1 oil filter. I change oil and filter around 7,500 miles which is more often that really needed, but I don't feel right about going longer between oil changes.

 

[Olympus]

On the next oil change for my truck, I may switch to Amsoil and run it for 10k and do an oil analysis just to see what it says. I use a Fumoto valve, so getting a sample would be super easy.

With all the things I’m juggling at work and at home, if I can spend the same money and save time by doing less frequent oil changes, I’d probably run Amsoil in my current truck. So far I’m liking it more than my last couple so I might keep it longer than 4 years.

 

[SALIV8]

The only oil pressure issue I ever had, with my fast cars, was with amsoil.

I was chasing a fluttering gauge reading on older fox body and thought it was anything but the oil I was using.

Changed to mobil1 (at the time) and the fluttering gauge went away, like snapping your fingers....

I will never use amsoil again.

 

[58Yeoman]

When Slick50 came out, I was working on flipping VW's and working on cars out of my garage. A rep came to me and wanted me to sell Slick50, and touted all the good things that would happen with it. He told me to run a quart in my Dodge Aspen for a month, and if it didn't perform as stated, no charge. Well, a month later, no additional mpg, no quicker starting, etc. Mouse milk. I'll stick with Mobil1.

 

[yeldogt]

just to add.... I run a fleet of cars. 10k intervals for most of them -- SYN oil. never an engine issue 100's of cars with many over 200k.

Pick up a fleet magazine -- nobody uses this stuff or additives.

 

[bob15]

I used to use amsoil (for about 5 years) until I tried their small engine oil in my old Sears Suburban 12 garden tractor. That poor tractor went from never using any oil to now burning enough oil to go from full or add on the dipstick in 2 hours run time. Nothing changed except using their SAE 30 weight small engine oil. I will never touch amsoil products again.

 

[Schurkey]

I used to use amsoil (for about 5 years) until I tried their small engine oil in my old Sears Suburban 12 garden tractor. That poor tractor went from never using any oil to now burning enough oil to go from full or add on the dipstick in 2 hours run time. Nothing changed except using their SAE 30 weight small engine oil. I will never touch amsoil products again.

Yup. I've heard of engines with "false seals", where the only thing holding the oil in is carbon build-up and sludge.

Changing to a synthetic oil removes the carbon and sludge, leaving the engine as an oil-burning or oil-leaking "junker".

'Course, the engine was already in trouble--but the carbon or sludge kept it from being obvious.

Let me guess: The engine is an HH120, splash-lube, no-oil-filter engine that maybe originally recommended non-detergent oil. Putting in synthetic oil re-introduced all the sludge and grit that was happy to pile-up in the sump, and ran it through the bearings and onto the cylinder walls.

I don't see how that's the fault of the synthetic oil, or how it applies to an engine with proper filtration that isn't full of oil-system contamination.

 

[bob15]

I don't see how that's the fault of the synthetic oil, or how it applies to an engine with proper filtration that isn't full of oil-system contamination.

Because I was running detergent Valvoline & Oilzum 5w-30 oil in it for years....And there wasn't any sludge in it. Just **** amsoil SAE 30.

And the Sears owners manual doesn't spec out non-detergent oil either.

 

[RivennHewn]

No, but I don’t much care for the taste of kool-aide either.