Any appliance experts here?

[sgs]

Our 10 year old Kenmore side by side started running non stop couple weeks back. Took it apart and coil was frozen up. Thawed it out and checked the heating element which had 4 ohms resistance which I think is what it should be.

Put it back together and it was working ok but noticed it appears to be starting to run longer again.

I think if the coil is freezing its one of 3 things. Heater, timer or newer fridges the expensive control card.

Any help out there on how to be sure what it is? If its the defrost timer I'd change it and the heater.

Control card is 200 bucks and would simply change all 3 if I knew for sure there's nothing else it might be.

Gordon S.

 

[joel63]

Check to see if there is a defrost termination thermostat in the the defrost circuit.
If it doesn't reset during the refrigeration cycle, it won't complete the circuit when the timer calls for defrost.

 

[Milton Shaw]

You need to check the total defrost circuit. It has a thermostat that can burn out and cause the element not to work. The timer if it has one instead of control board has a plastic shaft that can be turned with a flat blade screwdriver to move the timer into defrost cycle. That would turn on the elements and melt the frost out. If the elements do not come on then the thermostat, wiring, or defrost elements are bad. If you have a control board then that is all wrong. Also some of the old Kenmore used the Icemaker as the defrost timer and that one is a lot harder to fix.

 

[sgs]

Sorry...I meant to say thermostat not timer. As far as I can tell their are only the 3 items on this fridge and if I'm correct that 4 ohms is in the range then the heater element is ok.

I'll try to locate a schematic of the system to be sure no other bits exist.

Gordon S.

 

[rkevins]

a friend of mine had the same problem and we found a bad solder joint on the board, it looked like the solder was melted away from a joint I believe it was a relay joint, most likely a cold joint from the factory

 

[jhelrey]

Call Mr. Appliance. They will diag. the issue for $89 and give you a price to fix. If you fix it, they will waive the $89. We use them at work for rentals daily.

 

[joel63]

You can also find some useful help on YouTube.

 

[sgs]

Did not know about Mr Appliance. Will give them a call.

Gordon S.

 

[er3456df]

Look in the toe grille for a wiring diagram. Trace the wires for defrost back to the control board, and jump power to it (typically Pk-Bk on a ~10 yr old Kenmore, but yours may be different). Should get about 4-5 amps. If so, bad control.

If not, bad bimetal. Super cheap.

 

[ScaldedDog]

Google your model number and see if it uses the Jazz board used by Maytag, Amana, etc. If it does, just order it from repairclinic.com and replace it. The thermostat and heating element can go bad, but the far safer bet is the control board. If that doesn't fix it, repairclinic will take the board back.

Mark

 

[MN BIANCHI]

If the refrigerator is not going into defrost the coil will freeze up. You will also note that there is little on no water in the defrost pan. You should also be noting an increase in the fresh foold temps.

I would expect you have a bad defrost control. Your refrigerator is new enough that it most likely has an electroinic control vs. a traditonal mechanical defrost timer. The defrost termination thermostat could be bad however my bet would be the control board.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Drain tube clogged.

Find it. Flush with turkey baster.

 

[sgs]

Well so much for Mr Appliance. Guy came had to call someone else for every check and in the end said its probably the controller. ..which is what I already knew and suggested. Estimated 687.70 for the part and charged 81.19 to tell me what I pretty much suspected. I can buy a new control for 196.88?

Gordon S.

 

[jhelrey]

Wow, the techs we use are great! Never had them have to call another one out. Sorry about that!

 

[Kiwi_in_Paradise]

Not sure if this will help, but heard these guys in a podcast at some point in the past, it may or may not be of use.

 

[er3456df]

Estimated 687.70 for the part and charged 81.19 to tell me what I pretty much suspected.

Gordon S.

Ask me why I don't work for them anymore.

Seriously, everybody's guessing here. Find your schematic, do a simple test, and get your answer. You've got to get access to the control board anyway to do the repair, why not get to it now and do an easy check?

Post your model number, and I'll even pull up a schematic and tell you exactly which wires to jump.