Any better door switch than Leviton??

[jvitez]

We've been living in our new house for only 2.5 years. I'm now replacing the pantry door switch for the second time. The builder's electrician replaced it once. Three door switches in 2.5 years?????? The electrician said he'd never replaced one. I bought a Pass & Seymour one from an electrical supply house, and the actual switch in the box was the same Leviton as before......

http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/...ode+matchall&recN=112103&N=0&Ntk=P_PartNumber

I think the problem is the kids & Mrs. don't close the pantry door all the way, so it must keep flicking the switch a little or putting odd angled pressure on it. Once it starts acting up, I can turn it on by pushing up on the button, but this only works for a while. Later it starts to arc inside the switch as I manipulated it. Later, just dead. Grrrrrrrrr........

I'm close to rewiring it to a regular switch, but the door switch is convenient. I was thinking of putting one in the garage for a closet but not if I keep having this same problem.

Does anyone know of a better quality door switch? Is there a magnetic non-contact type one available? Any suggestions? Thanks!!

 

[mrb]

Is the switch overloaded and burning contacts? What is the load on the switch?

edit: you heard it arcing, so yes the contacts are burned

 

[jvitez]

No, not overloaded. Only one fixture being controlled, that has 3 x 26W CFL spiral bulbs, so only 78W total.

The Mrs. also leaves the pantry door open for hours at a time when cooking to throw light into that part of the hallway which we didn't have an overhead light in. I added one now though. I think it's a combo of both that and not fully closing the door so jiggling the switch many times. Any other thoughts?

 

[Torque1st]

Can you add a magnetic latch or some other method of holding the door closed firmly?

 

[mrb]

Can you add a magnetic latch or some other method of holding the door closed firmly?

thats a really good idea.

 

[tfi racing]

Door switches just don't work in the real world.The problem is always the door itself,whether its is misadjusted or not opened/closed properly,it really won't matter what or whose switch you buy.Having said that at least three guys will come on here and tell us how great their door switches work!I would just get rid of it and put in a wall switch,the standard variety or give a motion/occupancy switch a try.

 

[Mickey O]

Pass & Seymour and Edwards A502 (links below). Now here's the interesting part, only the Leviton is UL listed and approved the others are not. What I would do, and it will cost a little bit more is use a relay (like one pictured below) and a cheap low voltage switch. But I suppose if you already have the box and wire there give one of the other brands a try, I think the Pass & Seymour and Edwards are the same switch.

http://www.edwards-signals.com/index.cfm?pg=3&level=48&pid=82&tab=0

http://www.residential-landscape-lighting-design.com/store/door_jamb_switches.htm

http://www.fruitridgetools.com/stor...aspx?sfid=136763&i=231954721&mpid=8171&dfid=1

 

[Stuart in MN]

I would suggest putting a magnetic switch on the door, and using it to operate a relay that would in turn control the light (magnetic switches are generally low voltage so you wouldn't be able to hook one up directly, you could rig up a circuit with a 24 volt doorbell transformer for power.) A 'wide gap' magnetic switch would be best, since it would shut off the light even if the door wasn't completely closed - Sentrol is one brand of industrial grade magnetic switches, they have a wide gap switch that will work over a gap of two inches.

 

[Norcal]

I would suggest putting a magnetic switch on the door, and using it to operate a relay that would in turn control the light (magnetic switches are generally low voltage so you wouldn't be able to hook one up directly, you could rig up a circuit with a 24 volt doorbell transformer for power.) A 'wide gap' magnetic switch would be best, since it would shut off the light even if the door wasn't completely closed - Sentrol is one brand of industrial grade magnetic switches, they have a wide gap switch that will work over a gap of two inches.

Doorbell X-fomers are 16V. Another choice would be a occupancy sensor, but would need to spend some money for a decent one. Please note: A neutral is required at the switch for a occupancy sensor.

 

[Mickey O]

Doorbell X-fomers are 16V. Another choice would be a occupancy sensor, but would need to spend some money for a decent one. Please note: A neutral is required at the switch for a occupancy sensor.

The original poster isn't in California.

 

[Norcal]

The original poster isn't in California.

May I ask what that has to do w/ anything?



The occupancy sensors require a neutral for operation.

 

[Mickey O]

I would suggest putting a magnetic switch on the door, and using it to operate a relay that would in turn control the light (magnetic switches are generally low voltage so you wouldn't be able to hook one up directly, you could rig up a circuit with a 24 volt doorbell transformer for power.) A 'wide gap' magnetic switch would be best, since it would shut off the light even if the door wasn't completely closed - Sentrol is one brand of industrial grade magnetic switches, they have a wide gap switch that will work over a gap of two inches.

No transformer needed

Switches AC power ON and OFF using low voltage control circuit. Single relay can be controlled by multiple switches and multiple relays can be controlled by single switch. Lightweight #22 cable can be used to control relay instead of Romex or armored cable significant time & cost savings. Built in transformer, no step down transformers necessary. AC Current up to 6.5A (1/4 HP max motor load at 120V). Frequency: 60 Hz. Safe control switching: 10VDC max and 10 milliamps max.

AC Voltage from 105 to 125V.

Can be bought at Sears ( link ) for $56 or a lot less elsewhere.

 

[Mickey O]

May I ask what that has to do w/ anything?



The occupancy sensors require a neutral for operation.

What does an occupancy sensors have do with with this at all? The only place I know that requires occupancy sensors (although not in closets) is California.

 

[Aceman]

What does an occupancy sensors have do with with this at all?

Norcal was giving another option to turn the lights on automatically, one example being an occupancy sensor. Got it?

For the record, not all occupancy sensors require a neutral. Wattstoppers PW-100 do not.

 

[Stuart in MN]

Doorbell X-fomers are 16V.

You can get 24V transformers as well, the doorbell in my house runs on one.

* * * *

Like many electrical situations, the last few posts show there isn't necessarily a single correct answer - there's more than one way to skin this particular cat.

 

[Norcal]

You can get 24V transformers as well, the doorbell in my house runs on one.

* * * *

Like many electrical situations, the last few posts show there isn't necessarily a single correct answer - there's more than one way to skin this particular cat.

16V is the normal chime X-former voltage, 24V is common as control voltage on a good number of applications.

 

[Nostraquedeo]

Cooper Cat# 1664 (white) 1665 (Black)

 

[jvitez]

A magnetic switch sounds like the best option. I've got a pile on my "to do" list right now, so probably the most reasonable course is to try the Cooper version and see if it's any better. I am close to just rewiring to a regular switch but I don't want to give up without a fight!

Thanks everyone for the great ideas.

 

[Milwaukee tool guy]

Put a motion switch in there.....