Tossing around the idea of a brick paver driveway for my barn. 30' wide by 50' deep, then another 50' at 10' wide out to street. I still need to cut in the drive and lay a base of gravel. this is in michigan. thoughts? I would do this myself
any brick paver driveways?
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ssdave
Banned
Brick will break up in a season or two of freeze thaw. You can use concrete pavers successfully, though. Key is in good preparation and base, just like concrete. Even a bit more important, as water gets in through the cracks into the base.
The advantage of pavers is that when snow melts, the water drains through the cracks into the gravel below. It doesn't stay on the surface to re-freeze into ice. I think pavers are superior to concrete for this reason.
The advantage of pavers is that when snow melts, the water drains through the cracks into the gravel below. It doesn't stay on the surface to re-freeze into ice. I think pavers are superior to concrete for this reason.
Fixed
Well-known member
I really like pavers because you can fix damaged areas, replace cracked/stained ones, etc. Can also sometimes buy them second hand.
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WhiffySpark
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It will cost you at least 4 grand in pavers itself. Not including base or anything else.
If it's flat and level I would charge at least 15k depending on the land, permits, etc.
If it's flat and level I would charge at least 15k depending on the land, permits, etc.
RivennHewn
Well-known member
Regular brick won't hold up to your weather.
Pavers designed for drives, and attention to compaction/drainage is key.
Pavers designed for drives, and attention to compaction/drainage is key.
Shiftless
Well-known member
Wow, you are energetic!
It would require about 10,000 bricks to cover that much area. Plus all the digging and gravel and sand...
Like others have said, I would not go with common bricks or go DIY. Concrete pavers and find a pro with references.
Stuart in MN
Well-known member
Not necessarily so. There are some brick streets in the Minneapolis-St. Paul area that are over 100 years old.
Concrete pavers are more popular but brick is still an option. My neighbor had a brick drive put in about 5 years ago, it looks great. It's a matter of using the proper bricks and proper installation.
Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
I, too, have always wanted to do this. If you proceed, please post pics so I can drool and be envious. My research led me to believe that I either needed concrete paver bricks or the old solid bricks used as pavers in streets. Both are expensive (particularly when factoring in the prep work). The old solid bricks are hard to find.
JCQuick
Well-known member
I did my house driveway with pavers I cut corners and it has held up well its 11 years old now. I plan to do the same thing to my shop
WhiffySpark
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6-8 aggregate base. Geotextile. Paver base screed pipes. Cut off saws etc it's expensive anyway you attempt it
ssdave
Banned
I'm currently planning to do my driveway and garage apron with paver, about 1780 sf worth. I got a good deal on the paver, for just under $2000 delivered and placed at the driveway edge ready to use. $250 to excavate, $500 of base gravel, $250 worth of sand, a day of my time compacting, leveling, and getting it to grade by hand. I figure about 4 days to place the paver.
Should be into it under $3000, I already own the compactor and diamond saw, so only some fuel and maybe $75 worth of blade wear.
that same 1750 sf of concrete would run about $8000 to $12000. Good savings pays me a fairly high labor rate, plus I prefer the paver. That's why I went with it. It's hard work, but it pays really well for me to do it myself.
Should be into it under $3000, I already own the compactor and diamond saw, so only some fuel and maybe $75 worth of blade wear.
that same 1750 sf of concrete would run about $8000 to $12000. Good savings pays me a fairly high labor rate, plus I prefer the paver. That's why I went with it. It's hard work, but it pays really well for me to do it myself.
Ragged Earl
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I've always wanted to do the blocks that let grass grow, so you have a sturdy driveway that still looks like a lawn.
xtremek
Well-known member
I've seen a couple brick paver driveways over in the Troy area. The main street in downtown Flint is brick pavers, I believe (isn't that why they call it Back to the Bricks/Bikes on the Bricks?). Because the bricks are baked, I'd think they'd hold up better than concrete or asphalt. Just make sure you do good prep and seal the bricks every few years
engineer2
Well-known member
There is a gravel depth for pedestrian traffic and a deeper one for vehicular traffic. I believe 9-12" of crushed stone gravel is good for a driveway. Keep the sand depth to a minimum, 1" or so. DO NOT used crushed concrete. It's against code in most areas.
Raven GT
Well-known member
Standard reccomendation around here is dig out, lay geotextile, put chrushed brick and concrete on top ( 0 to 40 mm particle size ).
Use a plate compactor to compact it in layers of 4 to 6 inches, add another layer and compact that, etc.
The reason we use geotextile beneath the rubble is to stop the foundation layer migrating thru the soil, and the soil mixing with the foundation thus creating weak spots and wash outs underneath your paving.
It also helps with load distribution.
Minimal compacted thickness of 8 inches, the more and or heavier the traffic expected the thicker the layer.
We do have smaller lighter cars here so i would up that a couple inches for the U.S.
Thickness also depends on the subsoil. the softer the subsoil the thicker the layer because it wil not support it as well.
Add 2 to 4 inches of coarse sand on top after compaction and coarse grading of the ruble layers, compact that and then grade your driveway with a spirit level
If you do this right you can simply lay your concrete paving stones ontop of you sand bed.
the difference between a paving brick and a normal brick is the hardness there baked to, paving bricks being MUCH harder
this video series shows the its done overhere
The herringbone pattern seen here is used most often, as it is the strongest.
Just keep the stones diagonal to the traveling direction of the vehicles.
Here is one showing how to set the edge bands, which you start with.
This way it will be easier to set your drops for water runoff and height difference. Always make sure yore water goes away from buildings.
Properly set and backed edgebands also stop the pavers from being pushed apart
Set your edgebands a bit lower then the pavers for a nice look, or a bit above to direct water runoff. you can also pave a five stone wide hollow strip as a gutter to do this.
I cant seem to find a good video, but the way we set the height and grade on the compacted sand bed is done with string and a few loose paver stones set at the correct height with a rotating laser.
Once you set a few pavers in a row at 6 to 10 foot intervals at the correct height (dont forget going lower for you runoff)
Tension a string over the pavers, if need be place a paver on top of each one to hold the string in position.
Some people use just string, but for the longer runs us a paver here and there.
Then you take a 4 ft level or straight board and swipe/ scrape the sand level between the stones / strings to the correct level, blending you different heights / runoffs togheter.
You can use a longer level or board, but you will get tired faster.
Once your sand bed is done start laying your gutters, after that your pattern, leave the cutting to fit for later , so if you happen to go slightly ofcoarse somewhere, you can still slide the entire section a little bit with a big crowbar to straighten the layers out.,
Now you have everthing in, work of the edges with the pieces you need to cut to fit. try and cut and fit these in ways avoiding using anything smaller then a 1/3 of a paver.
Then when al is finished, throw a thin layer of sand over your pavers, sweep it into the cracks and with a broom and run a small compactor plate over the entire drive half overlapping each previous path you just compacted.
Do not do this with gutters !! or you risk flattening them out again.
Remember to set your initial height slightly higher then you want to end up with because the compactor plate will set the pavers slightly lower.
Then again aplly a bit of sand and keep sweeping it in over a few days, or let the wind and rain do it for you. this fils up all the cracks and gaps and makes it much stronger and harder to damage.
After a week of sweeping in the sand clean of the driveway, and then and only then drive cars on it. if the gaps between the pavers are not fully filled the torsion of the tires a steering car Won the bricks WILL push everything out of allignment.
Properly done a paved driveway should have a lifespan of 30 to 50 years.
Maintnance may be required inbetween depending on amount and weight of traffic, also turning points usually require a bit more maintenance.
.
Use a plate compactor to compact it in layers of 4 to 6 inches, add another layer and compact that, etc.
The reason we use geotextile beneath the rubble is to stop the foundation layer migrating thru the soil, and the soil mixing with the foundation thus creating weak spots and wash outs underneath your paving.
It also helps with load distribution.
Minimal compacted thickness of 8 inches, the more and or heavier the traffic expected the thicker the layer.
We do have smaller lighter cars here so i would up that a couple inches for the U.S.
Thickness also depends on the subsoil. the softer the subsoil the thicker the layer because it wil not support it as well.
Add 2 to 4 inches of coarse sand on top after compaction and coarse grading of the ruble layers, compact that and then grade your driveway with a spirit level
If you do this right you can simply lay your concrete paving stones ontop of you sand bed.
the difference between a paving brick and a normal brick is the hardness there baked to, paving bricks being MUCH harder
this video series shows the its done overhere
The herringbone pattern seen here is used most often, as it is the strongest.
Just keep the stones diagonal to the traveling direction of the vehicles.
Here is one showing how to set the edge bands, which you start with.
This way it will be easier to set your drops for water runoff and height difference. Always make sure yore water goes away from buildings.
Properly set and backed edgebands also stop the pavers from being pushed apart
Set your edgebands a bit lower then the pavers for a nice look, or a bit above to direct water runoff. you can also pave a five stone wide hollow strip as a gutter to do this.
I cant seem to find a good video, but the way we set the height and grade on the compacted sand bed is done with string and a few loose paver stones set at the correct height with a rotating laser.
Once you set a few pavers in a row at 6 to 10 foot intervals at the correct height (dont forget going lower for you runoff)
Tension a string over the pavers, if need be place a paver on top of each one to hold the string in position.
Some people use just string, but for the longer runs us a paver here and there.
Then you take a 4 ft level or straight board and swipe/ scrape the sand level between the stones / strings to the correct level, blending you different heights / runoffs togheter.
You can use a longer level or board, but you will get tired faster.
Once your sand bed is done start laying your gutters, after that your pattern, leave the cutting to fit for later , so if you happen to go slightly ofcoarse somewhere, you can still slide the entire section a little bit with a big crowbar to straighten the layers out.,
Now you have everthing in, work of the edges with the pieces you need to cut to fit. try and cut and fit these in ways avoiding using anything smaller then a 1/3 of a paver.
Then when al is finished, throw a thin layer of sand over your pavers, sweep it into the cracks and with a broom and run a small compactor plate over the entire drive half overlapping each previous path you just compacted.
Do not do this with gutters !! or you risk flattening them out again.
Remember to set your initial height slightly higher then you want to end up with because the compactor plate will set the pavers slightly lower.
Then again aplly a bit of sand and keep sweeping it in over a few days, or let the wind and rain do it for you. this fils up all the cracks and gaps and makes it much stronger and harder to damage.
After a week of sweeping in the sand clean of the driveway, and then and only then drive cars on it. if the gaps between the pavers are not fully filled the torsion of the tires a steering car Won the bricks WILL push everything out of allignment.
Properly done a paved driveway should have a lifespan of 30 to 50 years.
Maintnance may be required inbetween depending on amount and weight of traffic, also turning points usually require a bit more maintenance.
.
lynnbilodeau
Well-known member
Raven. Thanks so much for such an informative post. Loved watching that machine operator.
We live in a small City in Oklahoma that still has many brick streets, some over 100 years old. Some are in need of maintenance, but the actual hard baked brick is still in great shape.
We live in a small City in Oklahoma that still has many brick streets, some over 100 years old. Some are in need of maintenance, but the actual hard baked brick is still in great shape.
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Cyberbear
Well-known member
They used to make interlocking pavers that received good reviews years ago. Do a Web search and see if the interlocking styles are still made.
Firebird 1
Well-known member
Go for it. If done properly you will have no problem. I have recycled brick sidewalks and a large patio at my home in Northern MD. Weather is not a problem. You can rent all the tools needed. They are very easy to install, the prep is the important part, again its not hard, just follow recommendations. We have also install a few of the drive ways and a large parking area at a school with the grassy pavers. The driveways had a plastic tray and the parking lot had deep concrete block. They were both way more trouble than pavers. But are better for runoff.
SALIV8
Well-known member
looks awesome!
Titus_RacerX
New member
- Joined
- May 12, 2013
- Messages
- 2
http://oldcastle.com/architectural.php
I'm a graphic designer for Oldcastle, Belgard is our architectural paver/wall products division. Check it out. We have some beautiful pavers suitable for just about every need and taste.
I'm a graphic designer for Oldcastle, Belgard is our architectural paver/wall products division. Check it out. We have some beautiful pavers suitable for just about every need and taste.
JavaBrewer
New member
We replaced our old asphalt driveway with concrete pavers a couple years ago. I agree with previous comments in that pavers are superior to concrete in that they can be lifted, replaced, and repaired. It's not cheap by any measure but the result is outstanding and as you can see...chicken approved!
Attachments
TAMPAGT07
Well-known member
I used your thin brick to brickface the front and rear of my house... It looks amazing....
TAMPAGT07
Well-known member
Holy chit.... That's your driveway?
scootermcrad
Well-known member
There's a place in Iowa City that sells actual Street Pavers. They sell them by the pallet and they are BEAUTIFUL! Growing up in that town my Dad always had a pile of those things because the city literally through them away and my Dad always planned to do a driveway out of them. These things are serious and can take the abuse of about any sort of vehicle. HEAVY too!
Here's their website...
http://www.historicalbricks.com/
http://www.historicalbricks.com/products/antique-paving-materials/street-pavers
Here's their website...
http://www.historicalbricks.com/
http://www.historicalbricks.com/products/antique-paving-materials/street-pavers
Rorin67
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Likewise. If nothing else, it would put the water from washing the car to good use...
txvwnut
Well-known member
Dayumm! After seeing that I would be ashamed to admit there had been an asphalt drive.
RainierHooker
Well-known member
We did the concrete pavers thing too...
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Dug down to bare earth, which on my property is compacted sand (bonus). added 4" compacted 3/8" minus gravel, then 2" compacted sand. Then pavers, and a mix of sand and portland cement to help bind. I used 4 pallets of pavers, and the whole shebang cost about 4 grand and a whole lot of beer and pizza.
The upper part (where the '39 Ford is parked in the last picture) is now cleared, graveled, and awaiting pavers...
View media item 60323
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View media item 60298
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Dug down to bare earth, which on my property is compacted sand (bonus). added 4" compacted 3/8" minus gravel, then 2" compacted sand. Then pavers, and a mix of sand and portland cement to help bind. I used 4 pallets of pavers, and the whole shebang cost about 4 grand and a whole lot of beer and pizza.
The upper part (where the '39 Ford is parked in the last picture) is now cleared, graveled, and awaiting pavers...
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Use only pavers designed for vehicle traffic. They are > 2" thick.
I think I see some pictures here of patio pavers that are 1" thick, they will crack under a truck.
I have an old Chicago brick driveway, and have had concrete trucks [carefully] on my driveway, no issues.
I think I see some pictures here of patio pavers that are 1" thick, they will crack under a truck.
I have an old Chicago brick driveway, and have had concrete trucks [carefully] on my driveway, no issues.
engineer2
Well-known member
A couple of things:
A permeable brick surface requires much more gravel. My guy said 18".
Many towns have a minimum distance between a permanent fire pit to house (typically 15 ft) and some places don't even allow permanent ones. Just put in a round flower bed and repurpose it after final inspection.
A permeable brick surface requires much more gravel. My guy said 18".
Many towns have a minimum distance between a permanent fire pit to house (typically 15 ft) and some places don't even allow permanent ones. Just put in a round flower bed and repurpose it after final inspection.
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Well-known member
JavaBrewer
New member
This home was a definite fixer. I way under estimated how much $$ the driveway would cost but as you can see it really needed to go.
Kudo's to the folks here who did their own install! Laying pavers is a massively heavy job. I think my driveway was something like 25 pallets to complete. Had a crew of 4 here for a good week.
Attachments
Not too long ago there were HomeTime episodes where Minnesota house was getting full driveway of pavers. This was very high-end house with copper gutters, etc.
Key is preparation, preparation, preparation !!
Put in proper base, compact it, etc.
Go for it and good luck.
Key is preparation, preparation, preparation !!
Put in proper base, compact it, etc.Go for it and good luck.
RainierHooker
Well-known member
Yessir about the fire pit. I checked all my city and county codes and I'm in compliance. In may case, the fire pit is a "permanent masonry fireplace" per the code. There is no minimum distance to a structure on the property per the code, but there are use restrictions (i.e. only using clean aged firewood, being attended at all times when in use, etc). A 15 foot distance to any structure is applicable to "Portable Fire Devices with Open Flame".
However, just to dissuade any silliness, I will probably change it up a bit if we ever sell the place.
As far as the gravel, I simply followed the paver manufacturer's instructions and recommendations for use as a driveway. The pavers are much thicker than the average, at about 3" so that may have something to do with it. Its been in for about a year now, we'll see how it holds up in the long term...