Any down sides to building 1 step at a time

[sizzler90]

I am starting to make plans for a 28x36 garage/shop. But since I am on a budget I was thinking of getting the foundation poured this year pay it off and then finish it off. Is there a down side to doing it this way?

 

[nova65ss]

I am starting to make plans for a 28x36 garage/shop. But since I am on a budget I was thinking of getting the foundation poured this year pay it off and then finish it off. Is there a down side to doing it this way?

I did mine this way not really by choice just because I subcontracted most everything out. Most of the framers were very busy keeping their builders happy and could care less about my one time deal so they got to it when they could. I'd say my foundation and slab were up a good 4 months before the framers started.

Obviously once they start framing it needs to get dried in pretty quickly.

Jimmy

 

[bmwpower]

Did mine over a long period of time too.

 

[carcentric]

If you're required to have sill bolts (required by code here), have them put in during the pour, and protect their threads from rusting with a thick coat of roof sealant or some such product (needs to keep water out yet be easily removable when the framing's to begin).

 

[bmwpower]

If you're required to have sill bolts (required by code here), have them put in during the pour, and protect their threads from rusting with a thick coat of roof sealant or some such product (needs to keep water out yet be easily removable when the framing's to begin).

...or get galvanized bolts like I did.

 

[PAToyota]

That was the way I did it - both for cost issues as well as the fact that I was doing it myself. Poured the footings, laid the foundation walls, and set the steel columns and beams the first year. Next spring I started framing and got everything under roof, sheathed, and sided. Then did the interior work.

Of course, I had two neighbors have shops built for them and they were in them in less than four months each. Of course, both of them are still paying off the loans on them (and will be for some time) and I have twice the shop of one for a third of the money.

 

[boiler7904]

That's what I would do if I was in your position. You're first post didn't mention if you were going to frame it yourself or not so I'm going to assume that you will sub that out. I'd want to do the footings, foundation walls, and slab if possible now to be ready to start framing as soon as weather permits in spring. That gives you the winter to save some money and get competitive bids from local contractors for any work being subbed out. It's been my experience that the sooner you are ready to commit to a trade in the spring, the better pricing is when they have an open schedule.

Couple of things to be concerned about:
1. Frost heave is a b!tch. Talk to local concrete contractors, structural/civil engineers, building department, etc. about protecting your foundation through the winter (blankets and straw are two things that come to mind).
2. If you pour the slab now, make sure you include any plumbing, drains, or stubs for utilities. You don't want to start ripping out new concrete in 7 or 8 months just because you're in a hurry now.
3. Protect all of the anchor bolts - bolt down temporary blocks of 2x4s if you have to to keep them from getting bent over or the threads mangled. The other [more expensive and time consuming] option is to drill and epoxy the anchor bolts into the foundation next spring when framing starts. This allows for walk door (and maybe overhead door) locations to change depending on foundation design.
4. Check to make sure that your permit (if you have to have one) will allow for that long of a construction schedule. Some permits expire and have to be renewed every 6 or 12 months depending on the municipality.

Just a couple of things to think of while you're planning.

 

[sizzler90]

That's what I would do if I was in your position. You're first post didn't mention if you were going to frame it yourself or not so I'm going to assume that you will sub that out. I'd want to do the footings, foundation walls, and slab if possible now to be ready to start framing as soon as weather permits in spring. That gives you the winter to save some money and get competitive bids from local contractors for any work being subbed out. It's been my experience that the sooner you are ready to commit to a trade in the spring, the better pricing is when they have an open schedule.

Couple of things to be concerned about:
1. Frost heave is a b!tch. Talk to local concrete contractors, structural/civil engineers, building department, etc. about protecting your foundation through the winter (blankets and straw are two things that come to mind).
2. If you pour the slab now, make sure you include any plumbing, drains, or stubs for utilities. You don't want to start ripping out new concrete in 7 or 8 months just because you're in a hurry now.
3. Protect all of the anchor bolts - bolt down temporary blocks of 2x4s if you have to to keep them from getting bent over or the threads mangled. The other [more expensive and time consuming] option is to drill and epoxy the anchor bolts into the foundation next spring when framing starts. This allows for walk door (and maybe overhead door) locations to change depending on foundation design.
4. Check to make sure that your permit (if you have to have one) will allow for that long of a construction schedule. Some permits expire and have to be renewed every 6 or 12 months depending on the municipality.

Just a couple of things to think of while you're planning.

I plan on doing as much of everything that I can. My nabor is a contractor and has offered his brain to me. My muscle though. A few years back he helped me with my shed (14x16x8) by pointing me in tha right direction. It turned out pretty good. My plans for the garge/shop are pretty much what you said. Let it set until spring to start framing.