Any downside to using jobber length drill bits

[may0naise]

most of my metal drilling is generally 1/2 or less deep, and for the price of 1 regular drill bit I can get a 12 pack of jobber bits. For example https://www.lowes.com/pd/CLE-LINE-12-Piece-1-4-in-x-4-in-Cobalt-Twist-Drill-Bit/999917913 . 12 1/4" cobalt drill bits for less than $6 seems like a steal vs a single 6" long bit that costs the same price. what is the down side of the "jobber" bits. or do ya'll think this is a misprint by lowes (fyi they have almost every size bit in either 6 or 12 packs for basically the cost of 1 normal sized bit)

 

[MattT]

That price is each not per dozen.

 

[royesses]

Jobber bits are also known as mechanics length bits. They are general purpose and there is no down side. Screw machine or stubby length bits are less likely to bend and sometimes the shorter length allows you to drill in an area where a jobber length bit is too long. For use on the lathe I use a center drill first and then stubby most of the time unless I nee to drill deeper.

Roy

 

[Astro_Pneumatic_Tools]

Mechanics length is actually 2/3 the length of Jobber. Jobber is standard length, downsides being longer flute section, somewhat more prone to binding and shearing. But for most cutting has few real downsides.

 

[may0naise]

That price is each not per dozen.

yea I just found the "You must order this item in multiples of 12." part. that is my bad.

I figured since the specifications said "package qty 12" and the description says 12 piece and it does not say that is the per bit price anywhere that it was that price for a 12 pack. but the must order in multiples of 12 does give an implication that that is the per bit cost.

 

[lis2323]

Yeah at fifty cents per 1/4 bit you can forget about ever sharpening one. [emoji3]

 

[tarbellb]

On anything less than 1/4" I really like "stubby" or "short" bits, about 2-3". Less chance of snapping one.

Above 1/4" doesnt really matter, I typically like shorter bits for more control.

 

[driz]

On anything less than 1/4" I really like "stubby" or "short" bits, about 2-3". Less chance of snapping one.

Above 1/4" doesnt really matter, I typically like shorter bits for more control.

Especially if you’re always drilling things like car panels. Things with another panel [emoji2955]( maybe or maybe not[emoji2959])right below the one you’re drilling but at an angle. Those little guys still break but about 80% less often. That’s what makes them so great for riveting . They help with clearance in tight areas too especially if you don’t have a 90 degree drill.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[larry_g]

https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn..._=1568383674440&__=1568383674435&sortby=price

If you go to a good metal working tools vendor you will find a selection of 68 bits that fit your description priced from $3.50 to over a hundred dollars apiece.

As for length, the longer the bit is the more it will tend to wander and drill crooked/oversize holes. I use the shortest bit that I can and if drilling precision holes I may start with machine length and then go to a longer bit to finish. Let it also be known that a majority of the holes I drill are with a mill or drill press.



lg
no neat sig line

 

[dr_clyde]

I prefer screw machine length drills for general shop use. They are much shorter, so they're stiffer and less likely to flex and break. They also tend to not need a spot drill in the mill, as they are less prone to wander in the cut or skew off a punch mark.

Plus, I don't have to crank the knee down as far to accommodate the extra length of a jobber.

IMO, jobber length drills are really only useful for deeper holes or hard to reach areas. Screw machine is much more user friendly.