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Any hand plane experts?

JA5544

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Picked up this for $10, and thought I would clean it up and hopefully save it. I was wondering if anyone can tell me anything about it? Age, quality, etc. Its a no. 5 and says Union on the lever cap. The tote is broken in a couple places and there is some surface rust, but overall it seems to be in decent shape. This will be my first “restoration” so any tips there would be appreciated as well.
 

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JA5544

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Here is a few more pictures after I took it apart and wiped it down a little. There is a 4 stamped under the tote.
 

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AreBeeBee

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Well, I'm not an expert, but I can tell you that Evaporust will be your friend. I rehabbed a century-old (so it turned out) Stanley Bed Rock 605 plane bought at a ReStore shop for $15. See the first four pix below.

I should say that my goal in a tool rehab is not to make it look like it did the day it came home from the hardware store, but to get it back to working order. (I don't collect to collect; it's all to be used.)

I didn't photo every step of the way either, but the fifth image shows what it looked like after wire wheeling, Evapo, and painting. The original japanning was mostly gone, so I used Rustoleum. It's too shiny, but as I said, this is a plane to be used.

The date came when I got a good look at the Stanley logo on the iron; there's a type study at the link below which let me date it. (The plane is a Type 6 with an iron showing Trademark V, dating from 1912-1918; edited to correct the date range.)

https://virginiatoolworks.com/2015/...wanted-to-know-about-stanley-bed-rock-planes/

My advice is to decide just how far you want to go and be patient.
 

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JA5544

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I think the process of cleaning it up and hopefully getting it going again will make it worth it to me, regardless of how much it’s worth.
 

AreBeeBee

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I think the process of cleaning it up and hopefully getting it going again will make it worth it to me, regardless of how much it’s worth.
Mine has a fair amount of pitting on the sole and elsewhere. But I checked the sole for flatness and it's quite usably flat, so I decided to ignore all the pitting! After all, if companies made planes with grooved soles, why should I grinch at some pitting under there? I'll take some current photos soon.
 
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JA5544

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Looks like it cleaned up nice. I have been wondering if I should use something like evaporust or white vinegar. A lot of people use vinegar.
 

RTM

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Stick with Evaporust or electrolysis. They are both safe for the base metals. Vinegar and other products attack anything, not just rust.

Regarding your plane, if it is a Union, they are known for their extra thick blades.

Here is a page for Union, talking about planes. You need to be cautious, as there is a guy who is trying to resurrect the brand, bought the name, and has hopes to recreate the quality of the old planes. Well known in the plane community, they are generating a lot of buzz (Robert Porter), so don't confuse the old and new. (See the black bar at the top) This page should help you figure out ages etc of your plane, on his page.



This is a good read also when you want to get addicted to hand planes
 
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AreBeeBee

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Not my decision to make, but would this thread make more sense if placed under the Vintage Tool Discussion?
 

AreBeeBee

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You’re right. Just noticed that. I apologize.
Maybe the mods will move it. Meanwhile, below are shots of the finished 605.

The logo (last image) shows Trademark V, which gave the date, as I assumed that the guy in the factory who was assembling it grabbed a then-current production iron to put it together.

But my point is that despite the pitting on the surfaces, it cuts very smoothly and well. All I had to do with the iron was give it a brief sharpening and honed the back. So while the exposed parts are ugly, it does the job.

But as I said, I'm a tool user foremost, and I have respect bordering on awe for those who do a full restoration back to almost new condition. So take your plane as far or as short as you like!

(BTW, I have a Union #7, which I'll put in a new post momentarily.)
 

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AreBeeBee

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And here's the Union #7, which was in much better condition than the 605 when I got it from a dealer in Mesa, Arizona. I ended up doing only a basic cleaning and touch up on the wood parts. Again, it's far from factory-fresh, but it does what it was designed to do very well for my purposes.
 

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JA5544

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Maybe the mods will move it. Meanwhile, below are shots of the finished 605.

The logo (last image) shows the Type 6, which gave the date, as I assumed that the guy in the factory who was assembling it grabbed a then-current production iron to put it together.

But my point is that despite the pitting on the surfaces, it cuts very smoothly and well. All I had to do with the iron was give it a brief sharpening and honed the back. So while the exposed parts are ugly, it does the job.

But as I said, I'm a tool user foremost, and I have respect bordering on awe for those who do a full restoration back to almost new condition. So take your plane as far or as short as you like!

(BTW, I have a Union #7, which I'll put in a new post momentarily.)
Those look great, and that is also what I am going for. I want a user.
 

fatfillup

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Gotta agree on the evoporust but if you can knock some of the heavy rust off first with a quick brushing, do so, you will not kill your evaporust as fast.

Can't help with value, plane value is a mystery to me.
They can range from $5 to hundreds, maybe more and I never educated myself

Have fun
 

milkovich

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The price has gone crazy since the pandemic hit. I think a lot of guys started getting into hand tools (wood got expensive, might as well enjoy it!). For the collectors, old is good, bedrock is good.
For woodworkers on the other hand, the best ones are probably the cheapest. The bailey design, with adjustable throat, was made into the late 70's or 80's and garage sales are rotten with them. The trick is to get there before the collectors snap them up at any price. If you want some reading on the subject, I'd follow Paul Sellers for the unvarnished truth about handplanes from the perspective of the woodworker and not the collector (or paid shill).
 
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