Any Hardipanel Gurus out there??

[NickD]

Hi GJ,

I am working out the logistics of attaching Hardipanel over furring strips and rigid insulation on my exterior walls. The proposed wall assembly (inside -> out)

• 2x6 framing
• 1/2" plywood
• 2" rigid SM
• 1x4 furring strip
• 5/16" hardipanel

The problem is that the hardi installation guide requires a minimum furring strip thickness of 1-11/16". Adding this to the rigid and plywood gives a 4-3/16" gap to cross with some type of fastener. (I prefer screws) So I guess my question is : Am I going to have much success in using a 5" screw to attach the furring strip to the stud? Anyone have some advice of experience doing this or something similar?

Installation excerpt for reference:

Thanks !

Nick

 

[jdcustoms]

I think you would want to put the insulation between the furring strips. So you would need 2'' thick furring strips.

 

[nutjob]

The Journal of Light Constuction mag had a good article on this.

http://www.jlconline.com/cgi-bin/jlconline.storefront/4e7cdcde1180707f27190a323cb406f9/Product/View/1109maki

You do not want to put the furring strip between the insulation. This defeats the purpose of putting insulation on the outside of the house. It cause a thermal bridge to the outside plywood.

Also, search Fine Homebuilding. They have had some good articles on this also.


Kevin

 

[NickD]

Hey Kevin, thanks for the link.
Any chance you are a member of the JLC? Want to download the pdf for me??
I'm not sure if I really want to sign up, is it worth it?

You pin-pointed the reason to have the continuous insulation layer, and that is still my intent, to eliminate thermal-bridging. Hoping to the strapping on the outside of the insulation but didn't plan on the strapping thickness called out in the Hardi installation guide.

Nick

 

[nutjob]

I am not a member so I can't download it for you. Looks like $9.95 for a 3 day pass.

Here is another article that might help you:

http://www.jlconline.com/cgi-bin/jlconline.storefront/4e7dc11d0a8ca444271a0a323cb406a7/Product/View/1106tig

You are on the right track, you use long screws into the inside wall studs. The articles are from real life installs and show how to deal with issues you will have.

If I am about to spend that much time and money on an exterior insulation project, I think the $9.95 is well worth it.
JLC has had a few other articles on the same topic. Search Fine Homebuilding also.

Kevin

 

[danski0224]

The Hardi instructions require a minimum 1 11/16" furring strip, not 1" (which is only 3/4"- about 1" shy).

Sounds like you will need to buy long commercial roofing screws and predrill the furring strips (clearance hole, not pilot hole) + countersink them. You may need to predrill pilot holes in the sheathing and wall studs.

Commercial flat roofs have foam sheets that need to be fastened.

Scews like this: http://tip-topscrew.com/products/roof12specs.pdf

Square drive screws seem to go in better than Phillips drive as far as bit cam-out is concerned.

Those Hardi panels require double studs at the panel joints, so hopefully the framing is done accordingly (fastener needs to be at least 3/8" from the end of the panel). The panels need to be gapped and caulked, or a batten strip applied over the joint.

The use of screws may cause some local code issues. Might want to get approval, first if this is a permit job.

Nailing the Hardi will be *LOTS* faster than screwing it. You can buy stainless steel coil siding nails. Use a dedicated coil siding gun. The recommended fastener for my Hardi siding was stainless steel.

You also need to put some type of mesh or screen at the bottom of the wall to keep bugs/critters out.

 

[7echo]

I think JLConline is well worth the yearly fee. Lots of good articles there, as well as tool reviews and forums.