Any idea what this lathe tool is for?

[roblarss]

Any idea what this tool is for? I bought an old Willson lathe with alot of tooling. This may not even be for this lathe as I cant figure out where it can fit to slide over.

Thanks

 

[The Cobbler]

looks like a follow rest, it follows along behind the cutter to keep the turning shaft from bowing.

 

[isb cornbinder]

looks like a follow rest, it follows along behind the cutter to keep the turning shaft from bowing.

It is exactly what you suggest.

 

[roblarss]

That was quick. Makes sense now that im looking at it. Now to clean it up and try it out one day.

Ill have many more things to figure out on this lathe.

Thanks

 

[Old Man Roger]

I’m confused, it seems to be facing in the wrong direction for a follower?

 

[The Cobbler]

^^^ I think it's just how the poster oriented it on the lathe

 

[roblarss]

Would I be correct in assuming it mounted over here? Seems to a to narrow and no way to lock it down

 

[The Cobbler]

that's basically where it would mount. might not be from that lathe? maybe the dovetail bottom bracket can be removed & fit the follow rest to the carriage ? it looks like at least 1 of the dovetail gibs will come off, is that correct?

 

[Old Man Roger]

^^^ I think it's just how the poster oriented it on the lathe

Yup, his next picture made it right for me.

 

[roblarss]

One dovetail will come off. With some cleanup it seems like it may just fit with zero clearance.

Anyone know much about these lathes? Had it for a few months and don’t see much online about them. 15” swing 77” long.

 

[Old Man Roger]

I hear they spontaneously combust, I can take that safety hazard away for you.lol

 

[roblarss]

I hear they spontaneously combust, I can take that safety hazard away for you.lol

Apparantely its been im my small town since the beginning of time. With the lack of cleaning ive given it may combust. Ways are a little sloppy. Came with a pallet of tooling/multiple steadys/3 jaw/4 jaw chuck.

 

[DocsMachine]

Okay, that doohickey is called a "follow rest", as it follows the tool. (A 'steady rest' stays in place on the bed and holds the work in one spot.)

The section of dovetail on the right unbolts. Or at least loosens- loosen that, slide it onto the dovetail from the back, get it into position, and re-tighten the two bolts. The dovetail section is pulled up and clamps it in place.

The whole upper assembly moves left and right on the dovetail part, so you can align it in relation to the tool. You can have it follow behind the tool (the tips ride on the turned portion) or you can run it ahead of the tool, where the tips ride on the unturned portion.

You'd want it to follow (ride on the just-cut surface) if you're doing something like cleaning up hot-rolled, with a rough-ish surface or a lot of scale. Or a cast rod, or any other situation where the surface is less than smooth and true.

And, no offense, but the ways on that thing- the whole lathe- are filthy. That mud is basically acting like lapping compound. Please do yourself a favor and clean those ways thoroughly, including, if possible, under the carriage, and re-lube them with fresh, clean oil.

Old machines like that live in oil- get a trigger oiler and lube the bejeebers out of it every time you use it. Buy more bejeebers if you need to. You cannot over-oil it. Fresh oil lubes the parts then drips down into the pan- and carries dirt, grit and swarf down with it.

And don't get ******* with the old arguments about the "correct" oil- technically yeah, you want "way" oil for the ways (typically Vactra #2) and plain oil for the gearbox and the like, but in your case, any oil is better than what you have. Buy a trigger oiler and a quart of 10W-40, and lube anything that moves.

Then wipe off the dirty oil and lube it again. Keep doing that until the oil stays clean.

That machine has already lasted for decades- it'll last many decades more with good cleaning and lube.

Doc.

 

[Farmer J.]

So, I just logged on and saw this thread, and then I saw the last post was by DocsMachine...
And I thought: "There's going to be a good answer to this, that chap knows an awful lot."
I wasn't disappointed,
Thanks Doc for sharing your knowledge and experience and taking the time to help and explain it so well to amateurs like myself.

 

[dutchgray]

And, no offense, but the ways on that thing- the whole lathe- are filthy. That mud is basically acting like lapping compound. Please do yourself a favor and clean those ways thoroughly, including, if possible, under the carriage, and re-lube them with fresh, clean oil.

Old machines like that live in oil- get a trigger oiler and lube the bejeebers out of it every time you use it. Buy more bejeebers if you need to. You cannot over-oil it. Fresh oil lubes the parts then drips down into the pan- and carries dirt, grit and swarf down with it.

And don't get ******* with the old arguments about the "correct" oil- technically yeah, you want "way" oil for the ways (typically Vactra #2) and plain oil for the gearbox and the like, but in your case, any oil is better than what you have. Buy a trigger oiler and a quart of 10W-40, and lube anything that moves.

Then wipe off the dirty oil and lube it again. Keep doing that until the oil stays clean.

That machine has already lasted for decades- it'll last many decades more with good cleaning and lube.

Doc.

Sadly you see far too many formerly decent machines utterly ruined either in home shops or light industrial settings because no one ever cleans and oils them.
They just sit in a corner somewhere getting covered in grit and dirt from all the other work done near it until the owner wants to turn a bushing or shorten a bolt or something.

I did hear of one agricultural workshop that after effectively destroying their lathe after 40 years of absolutely no maintenance decided to build the very worn bits of the bed way up with weld and then grind it back to somewhat straight with an angle grinder.

 

[Farmer J.]

I did hear of one agricultural workshop that after effectively destroying their lathe after 40 years of absolutely no maintenance decided to build the very worn bits of the bed way up with weld and then grind it back to somewhat straight with an angle grinder.

Amazing, but probably true..! What a neighbour of mine would call "engineering brutality"..

 

[Farmer J.]

And, no offense, but the ways on that thing- the whole lathe- are filthy. That mud is basically acting like lapping compound. Please do yourself a favor and clean those ways thoroughly, including, if possible, under the carriage, and re-lube them with fresh, clean oil.

Old machines like that live in oil- get a trigger oiler and lube the bejeebers out of it every time you use it. Buy more bejeebers if you need to. You cannot over-oil it. Fresh oil lubes the parts then drips down into the pan- and carries dirt, grit and swarf down with it.

And don't get ******* with the old arguments about the "correct" oil- technically yeah, you want "way" oil for the ways (typically Vactra #2) and plain oil for the gearbox and the like, but in your case, any oil is better than what you have. Buy a trigger oiler and a quart of 10W-40, and lube anything that moves.

Then wipe off the dirty oil and lube it again. Keep doing that until the oil stays clean.

That machine has already lasted for decades- it'll last many decades more with good cleaning and lube.

Doc.

Although my little old BoxFord lathe is in a 'clean room' at one end of my workshop and already shiny and dripping with oil and ACF50, I get the idea that as it's a rainy cold afternoon here dutchgray and myself will both be out in the workshop brushing and splashing and wiping fresh oil around on our lathes!

 

[nadogail]

Sometimes valuable things get neglected, much to the sorrow of those who recognize their value.

 

[Provincial]

Actually, Doc's suggestion of 10W-40 motor oil is a good one, rather than a desperate one. Common motor oil is rated as "Detergent" which means that it is designed to pick up minute particles and hold them in suspension until the oil runs through a filter. In this case, it would hold the particles in suspension until the oil drips off into the pan and would be sopped up and thrown out. It would actually leave the ways cleaner than using way oil, but after cleaning and wiping the surfaces clean, they should be treated to a good coating of actual way oil.

I keep my lathes covered with an old cotton bed sheet. The sheets get exposed to the way oil, and look sort of ugly, but they don't hold moisture near the metal parts and keep off airborne dirt. If you live in an area with humidity problems, you could give the sheet a light spray of WD-40 or other such treatment to keep the moisture away.

 

[dutchgray]

Although my little old BoxFord lathe is in a 'clean room' at one end of my workshop and already shiny and dripping with oil and ACF50, I get the idea that as it's a rainy cold afternoon here dutchgray and myself will both be out in the workshop brushing and splashing and wiping fresh oil around on our lathes!

I actually had a rare Saturday at home today as I am just really tired, all day yesterday was spent hauling my new to me 1972 Dean Smith and Grave 1307 x 40 out of the workshop of its previous owner, then getting it skated in to my workshop.
It of course rained whilst the machine was outside so I had to dry and oil it, I had to take the (4') door and one door stop off to make the opening big enough for it to fit through (plus the handles and the cross slide handwheel)
It's not in final position, the machine is a little deeper than the 1957 13-1 x 42 it replaced so some other machines need to be slightly moved.
Nice machine though, got a couple minor issues, cross slide is a bit tight, but I was informed the machine hasn't been used in about a year so its probably just dried up way oil gumming it up, also needs a backlash adjustment as there is quite a bit (has a double nut arrangement you just have to get in there and do it.)
The threading dial is non op, so I need to investigate what's missing or broken in there, it needs the engraved info plate for that as its missing as well, probably have to have one made.
Need to make some extra change gears to be able to do every pitch the machine is capable of.
Need to get a nice vintage machine lamp as it's has gone missing
Needs wiring in, needs a bit of a clean under its removable covers, could do with a new drive belt.

Will be nice though, 10hp motor, clutch drive 2240 rpm max spindle, 2" spindle bore, metric leadscrew and dials.

 

[dutchgray]

Amazing, but probably true..! What a neighbour of mine would call "engineering brutality"..

These same people also recently scrapped a large radial arm drill that was in working order (I believe they almost never used It) because they couldn't be bothered trying to sell it.

 

[tool_scrounge]

You can buy Vactra #2 off of eBay in quart quantities. For example

https://www.ebay.com/itm/123818051435

Technically, you want Vacuoline 1409 with it what Vactra #2 originally was before they removed the tackifiers in the CNC era. But it is rare to find it in sizes smaller that 5 gallon buckets. I use both and 1409 is definitely tackier.

But anything is better than nothing. When not specified I usually use 30 weight non detergent motor oil. Cheap and available,in quart sizes.

 

[roblarss]

Okay, that doohickey is called a "follow rest", as it follows the tool. (A 'steady rest' stays in place on the bed and holds the work in one spot.)

The section of dovetail on the right unbolts. Or at least loosens- loosen that, slide it onto the dovetail from the back, get it into position, and re-tighten the two bolts. The dovetail section is pulled up and clamps it in place.

The whole upper assembly moves left and right on the dovetail part, so you can align it in relation to the tool. You can have it follow behind the tool (the tips ride on the turned portion) or you can run it ahead of the tool, where the tips ride on the unturned portion.

You'd want it to follow (ride on the just-cut surface) if you're doing something like cleaning up hot-rolled, with a rough-ish surface or a lot of scale. Or a cast rod, or any other situation where the surface is less than smooth and true.

And, no offense, but the ways on that thing- the whole lathe- are filthy. That mud is basically acting like lapping compound. Please do yourself a favor and clean those ways thoroughly, including, if possible, under the carriage, and re-lube them with fresh, clean oil.

Old machines like that live in oil- get a trigger oiler and lube the bejeebers out of it every time you use it. Buy more bejeebers if you need to. You cannot over-oil it. Fresh oil lubes the parts then drips down into the pan- and carries dirt, grit and swarf down with it.

And don't get ******* with the old arguments about the "correct" oil- technically yeah, you want "way" oil for the ways (typically Vactra #2) and plain oil for the gearbox and the like, but in your case, any oil is better than what you have. Buy a trigger oiler and a quart of 10W-40, and lube anything that moves.

Then wipe off the dirty oil and lube it again. Keep doing that until the oil stays clean.

That machine has already lasted for decades- it'll last many decades more with good cleaning and lube.

Doc.

Thanks for the info on how to setup the follower. Im going to clean it up and get it setup.

I agree the lathe is terribly dirty. I did give it very thorough cleaning when i brought it home as it was sitting in an open lean to. I am going to give it a good cleaning and oiling this week. I like the idea of covering it with a sheet when not in use as my shop area has a variety of use. Ive been making alot of grinding dust lately so that doesnt help the lathe. I just need to make a conscious effort after a "quick" job to go and wipe it down/oil it up. The ways are definitely worn in the first 24". I tightened up the carriage but had to back it off a bit as it was to tight on the end.

There are about 12 little oil pots on the head end are you saying they should all be oiled each use? Some I may have to see if they are plugged as they dont take much oil ever. Others I can dump as much as I wish into them. Ill start upping my oil usage.

Thanks for the wealth of info.

 

[DocsMachine]

Oil is cheap, compared to a new lathe.

Outside of the headstock, most older lathes like that are "total loss"- any lube you give it eventually drips down into the chip tray. As I said, this is beneficial as that oil carries with it dirt and grit, and keeps fresh oil at the bearings and bushings.

You don't need to use up a full quart of oil each time you turn the machine on, but realistically, you literally can't over-oil a machine like that.

I mean, unless your socks get squishy every time you get near it.

But yes, get a good trigger oiler, and use it regularly. The more open the part is- to dust and grit, like the ways- the more often they should be oiled.

Doc.

 

[tombell572]

Not a bad idea to keep your grinders as far from the lathe as your shop layout will allow. Grinder dust is your enemy.

Tom B.

 

[alfadan]

Keep the carriage at the rear. Before each use, wipe the ways down with a clean towel or rag and oil them. If the carriage has felt wipers consider replacing them.

 

[dutchgray]

The Taylor tapered scroll chuck was an expensive choice back in the day as well, they grip stock very tightly but you give up having a flat chuck surface to use as a reference.

Yes the oil ports, any exposed moving parts and exposed bare metal surfaces should all get regular oiling.

 

[paulsomlo]

http://www.lathes.co.uk/willson/index.html

 

[cannuck]

One site to start in on Taylor Lathes: http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=11143&tab=0

strongly agree on comments about cleaning and lubing. seriously deficient in my own shop when it comes to cleaning and lubing.

 

[slowtwitch73]

I cover my machine tools in old fitted sheets when not in use to keep crud off.

 

[SilverJimmy]

I bought two of these for my new to me Craftsman 12x36 lathe and Ex-Cell-O mill. Made in America, very well made, and will last forever. They even have rebuild kits available, and best of all, they sell direct!

720 Oiler | 8 in. Angle Spout | 12 oz. | Dutton-Lainson Company

www.dutton-lainson.com

 

[roblarss]

Thanks for all the replies and all of the info I now have to digest. Ill definitely oil harder and cover things up. Ill see about moving a few items around to give the lathe a fighting chance.