any ideas for designing my garage for the future?

[nflfreak43]

ok guys, while its a couple years away im designing my garage.

i need some ideas...


dimension wise i was thinking 35 ft deep by 30 ft wide. each bay would be 15 ft wide. 2 doors. over 1 bay have an upstairs for extra parts storage. and in the other be the 2 post lift i want. that way im using the most of the air space in the garage..


i have a few things that will be a must...

1. Have an upstairs for extra storage.
2. have a enclosed section for a air compressor to keep the noise down to a point
3. Have a tall enough roof for a 2 post lift
4. deep enough to fit a superduty or comparable truck. and tool box in front of and room to work on the vehicle with the bay door closed confortably.
5. enough room side to side to open and close doors on vehicles with out much interference.


keep in mind that this will be for starters just personal home use. then down the road i may start working for myself out of my garage after i get a basis in shops and dealerships..

thanks in advance for the ideas.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Right off, I'd make it 36' instead of the 35. 36' is a standard construction size.

 

[nflfreak43]

ok... i can do basic building stuff, dont know much about "standard construction sizes".

why would the size be 36 for standardization??

 

[NUTTSGT]

It falls on the 16" on center for framing, 16" or 24" on center for trusses both of which yield less waste when cutting wall or roof sheathing.

 

[nflfreak43]

makes sense.. was thinking that was what the answer was gonna be...

 

[NUTTSGT]

makes sense.. was thinking that was what the answer was gonna be...

That's why most garage packages are made on "even" number sizes.

 

[nflfreak43]

makes sense....

 

[D.J.]

I would think your other dimension would be 32' to also get the most out of your building materials. JMO

 

[nflfreak43]

yeah you'd be right...

so 36x32...

 

[ducati]

yeah you'd be right...

so 36x32...

If you have the room, 32' x 40'. The thing that I have noticed is everytime I build a house, I grow the garage an extra 2' or 4'. I now have a 28'x 48' and I'm getting ready to add to it. I'm going 26' x 32' that will be 20' ceiling for a hoist. Trust me, it is way cheaper to add the sq footage now when you are building the first time than at a later date.

 

[pcmeiners]

go along with 32'x40' min.

"2. have a enclosed section for a air compressor to keep the noise down to a point"
Solid block if you want to keep the noise down, outside wall intake at bottom for air intake, vent high up to remove heat in summer. Fire-code door, as they are filled with dense material, which knocks down noise.

For wall/ceiling type C fire-code 5/8" sheetrock, withstands fire better the type X, may lower insurance rates.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drywall

Carefully plan wiring for Ethernet, phone, alarm. With power wiring create a chase so addition wiring can be added easily after garage is "finished".

 

[Challenger lifts]

For vertical clearance, we recommend checking the height of the area where the lift is to be installed. Clearance should be calculated based on the full raised height of the lift. The ceiling height required is typically between 11’- 11 ” and 14’- 9” depending on which Two-Post Surface Mounted Lift you choose. Here’s what to look for when determining if a bay can accommodate a lift: new floors must cure for 28 days and the concrete must be a minimum of 4” thick and steel reinforced. Also, take into account your electrical or air connections, as well as any overhead obstacles in the structure of the garage.

 

[MScott]

Not sure where you live (would help to have that info in your profile) but you should consider plumbing for in floor radiant heat. Can help to make your garage comfortable to work in year-round. Also, insulation under the slab and in the walls and ceiling.