Any ideas for sheathing interior walls.

[Ran58]

I’m starting my 40 by 60 shop and am thinking ahead as to what be best for the interior walls and ceiling. This is a 2 by 6 stick built. I am aware that OSB is probably the cheapest but I am not crazy about it. I intend to paint the walls and it seems to me that OSB would probably flake off and also collect dust badly.

I thought about drywall. It looks good and takes paint well but it is not very durable for a shop. Would love to have metal but that would break the bank. Does anyone have any good ideas or suggestions?

thanks

 

[Zeke]

It's time for good ol' fashioned interior paneling to make a comeback. I see some "smooth white wall panels" available for $20 ea. Might be a good thing for the upper walls.

 

[kaymccampbell]

I've got drywall in my shop. You can't pressure wash the car, but otherwise it's pretty durable. It's also easy n cheap to modify. Repairs are easy after you teach wrenches or 2x4's to fly.

 

[RivennHewn]

It's time for good ol' fashioned interior paneling to make a comeback. I see some "smooth white wall panels" available for $20 ea. Might be a good thing for the upper walls.

I love me some 70’s wood paneling!

 

[JIA]

I'm doing galvanized metal on the lower half of part of my shop with some faux brick up top. Plasma table is going there and I plan on shooting video in that area so something that's a little different from the clean walls in the rest of the shop would likely be good for what I'm doing.

 

[southalabama]

The month they were discovering covid in the United States I had a bundle of 3/4” BC plywood delivered. I wanted A plywood but couldn’t get it locally. By the time it’s painted and with cabinets on the walls not much will be exposed. It still irks me I didn’t get A ply.

It’s a 40x60 metal building. Only walling up 8’ in a 40x40 section. Treated on concrete and plywood. No studs needed. On a 20x20 section that will be climate controlled I’m going to frame it in and put Sheetrock.

 

[bobkat]

I’m starting my 40 by 60 shop and am thinking ahead as to what be best for the interior walls and ceiling. This is a 2 by 6 stick built. I am aware that OSB is probably the cheapest but I am not crazy about it. I intend to paint the walls and it seems to me that OSB would probably flake off and also collect dust badly.

I thought about drywall. It looks good and takes paint well but it is not very durable for a shop. Would love to have metal but that would break the bank. Does anyone have any good ideas or suggestions?

thanks

I have OSB with three coats rolled on enamel, going on 5 years still looks good and can wash off any splashes or dirt

 

[Mzungu]

I bought lifts of 1/2 plywood for my 38 x 44 shop build when it was cheap before covid. If I had to do it now drywall would would be the choice due to the price of plywood being too high.

 

[MushCreek]

Drywall for the upper walls and ceiling. Metal or plywood for the first 4'.

 

[racecougar]

Liner panel. Add up the cost of drywall, mud, tape, primer, and paint, plus your labor and compare that to the price of liner panel from your local supplier (not the big box stores).

 

[Toolfool]

5/8" CDX, painted. I can screw things to the wall wherever I want.

 

[Renegade1LI]

I plan on using 5/8 firecode with tile up the first 3'. I like the fire resistance and the tile to slab will make it easy to clean.

 

[nadogail]

I have drywall and cabinets.

 

[Brly]

If you're doing everything yourself, drywall on a 40x60 will take forever to finish. I just did my 32x44x12 with one partition wall. Took me about a month to mud and sand, mostly weekends and a few nights after work. I like the looks and the price, but time was a killer. Hire it out if you go drywall.

 

[35k0]

I did 1/2'' OSB, smooth side out and painted it white with an oil based primer. No flaking, no dust collection, 2 coats, full coverage. I like it, it's tough and you can screw to it anywhere.
To each their own though.
If I did anythign else it would be metal liner panels like I did on the ceiling, on the walls or plywood.

 

[CraigStu]

Drywall but don't mud and tape it. Just paint it. In certain areas use some of the liner panel like racecougar did or galvanized corrugated roofing. At HD or L there are apparently two kinds of galvanized coatings. Be sure you don't get the shiny one or you will need your sunglasses inside. As racecougar says there may be less expensive sources for liner or roofing but, if you are just doing certain areas, being able to make a Sunday afternoon run to HD or L for an extra sheet or two is really nice.

 

[Ran58]

Do you have to be concerned about condensation with the metal liner panels. I live in Georgia and will be having blown in insulation in the attic.

 

[racecougar]

Do you have to be concerned about condensation with the metal liner panels. I live in Georgia and will be having blown in insulation in the attic.

Insulated walls and attic here (mid-Missouri). I've never had any inkling of a condensation issue, and it's just as humid here in the Summer.

 

[iamhomeless]

If you don't mind a rustic look, drive around and find a collapsed or collapsing barn and ask about salvaging the roof metal or wall boards.

 

[ddurrett896]

1x12

 

[u2slow]

I went with 1/2" plywood on the walls. It's exactly what i wanted for durability and fastening shelving, etc.

I'm disappointed I didn't get it all done at $25-30/sheet. (These last 6 sheets are going to be painful.) I had some extra white paint initially, but that's gone, and $40/gal and multiple coats sure adds to that sqft cost.

Now that I'm wiser for it... Ceiling will get liner panels.

 

[Monza Harry]

For paint regarding OSB, our "transfer station" [Solid Waste Authority]offers paint that was safely/environmentally friendly turned in that is cheap to free for the first 4 coats (LOL), colour isn't a concern for the coats that will be "Sucked" up then transition to a better match for your full price paint's final colour(s). With a quick sand between coats (or just "squeegee " the top +/-) you should be able to smooth out some of the texture, or just use some drywall compound but that will get messy and expensive fast! Drywall [green or blue for better wet resistance] is good in that it can have a fire rating and with grinders, plasma, and the welding gear we all seem to aspire to owning, that is a good thing. Steel/aluminum at the bottom 1 foot plus is even better! Harry

 

[dzahm]

Whoever built mine used 3/4 subflooring - but they only did half way- So I have finished one wall all they way- Its nice cause you can screw anything up- anywhere- no need to hit a stud- Its bad because its freaking heavy- On the top course I have to use a lift and the 4 x 8 sheet almost pulled me off the lift. (this course is around 17 feet up or so from the concrete- so kinda scary) Oh and last I checked this stuff was really high dollar- so I kinda suspended the work until I can afford more or it comes down in price (yeah I know it may never happen)

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

Drywall and FRP panels where needed.

 

[PoorUB]

There should be a "sticky" on this as it comes up all the time!

My shop is all sheet rock, taped and textured. Some say the texture attracts dust, I don't see it happening in my shop. Some say sheet rock gets banged up to easy, again, I don't see it being an issue either. If the drywall gets banged up a few minute with some drywall mud and all is better.

If I were to do it over I would go with sheet rock, but consider covering the bottom fur feet with fiberglass reinforce panels. Just glue it right to the sheet rock.

Many guys go with OSB, but personally, I hate it. It doesn't hold screws that well and that is one of the big reasons many recommend it. Plus it ***** up paint like a sponge.

I have heavy cabinets and a bolt rack hung on the walls in my shop and no issues hanging them with sheet rock.

 

[Metal-Marc]

Many guys go with OSB, but personally, I hate it. It doesn't hold screws that well and that is one of the big reasons many recommend it. Plus it ***** up paint like a sponge.

Also, OSB looks like ****.

 

[PoorUB]

Also, OSB looks like ****.

No argument from me!

 

[Natty Bumppo]

I did rough sawn 1x10 ship-lap up to 8'. Then painted OSB on top of that to 12'. The OSB doesn't look too much like **** when it's 8' off the ground. The 1x10 offers more of a rustic look that not everybody will like. But if you like it, and if you have access to a local mom and pop sawmill, it's not too bad price-wise either.

 

[Ashgrove]

Currently working on a garage for the Mrs. This morning I picked up a bundle of liner steel rolled by our local supplier. Cost was 75% of the big boxes.

 

[rnixon]

I did mine with 7/16" Smart-Side exterior siding , factory primed ,shiplap edges, attached with bronze screws , to be easily removable

 

[Mzungu]

cool floor

I did mine with 7/16" Smart-Side exterior siding , factory primed ,shiplap edges, attached with bronze screws , to be easily removable

 

[Metal-Marc]

cool C2 Corvette

Fixed

 

[jmarkwolf]

I've got sealed T1-11, oriented vertically on my shop's interior 10ft walls. Looks good and is holding up very well after about 8 years. Don't know about pricing nowadays though.

 

[Mzungu]

Fixed

haha of course, I didnt want to appear overly jealous of the vette, walls, cabinets, and the floor.

 

[Juiced06GTO]

This is how I did mine. 1x10 ship lap pine. I was able to get 2k sq ft for a dollar a sq ft from a mill up in Maine. Drove 7hrs round trip to get it, but saved me $3k from a local place. The metal along the bottom is just corrugated steel roofing from Home Depot. The ceiling will get drywall eventually. I have enough of the ship lap left over to do the upstairs 10x40 loft area as well.