Any ideas on what DP this is?

[bawb]

I saw the slow speed pulleys and the table lower/raise crank and had to get it.
Someone painted over all identifying labels so the first step is figuring out what I bought. Also the chuck goes up to 3/4".

 

[Roberts210]

My first impression is Asian due to the design elements of the controls.

 

[bawb]

I love the fact that it goes down to 120 rpm. Now i have to reread some threads to see how to lift the paint off the label. I'm thinking over trying oven cleaner but am open to suggestions.

 

[gungatim]

looks like an early metal working DP from Taiwan machine to me. note shape of motor, the locking collar for the depth stop, the way the gear is clamped to the tube, the bolts on the base, etc. only thing that doesn't jive is the smooth casting. maybe someone bondo'd it before painting.

 

[MShaw]

It looks very close to the Craftsman drill press I bought in the early 1990s

 

[gamescastspencer]

I agree it's a taiwanese machine. The depth stop collar is what tells me. Most American DPs use a rod with knurled knobs.

Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

 

[Parabellum]

I am going to say, "Orbit"

 

[rlitman]

It looks very close to the Craftsman drill press I bought in the early 1990s

I bought my Craftsman DP used, but it probably dates to the 90's.

Yeah, mine's got the same exact table (and rack), motor mount/adjustment and pulley setup. I couldn't say this is Craftsman or not, but it sure came out of the same factory.

Whoever replaced the switch did you a disservice. The should be a second switch for a worklight that's hidden in the casting behind the quill.

I agree it's a taiwanese machine. The depth stop collar is what tells me. Most American DPs use a rod with knurled knobs.

Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

Correct. The nice thing about the collar is you can spin it all the way around and use it as a height stop too to keep the quill down a bit for repetitive operations where you won't want to raise the table.

 

[AZ Pete]

I have a Delta that looks very similar, except mine is a floor model. Bought new about 1990, made in Taiwan

 

[bawb]

looks like an early metal working DP from Taiwan machine to me. note shape of motor, the locking collar for the depth stop, the way the gear is clamped to the tube, the bolts on the base, etc. only thing that doesn't jive is the smooth casting. maybe someone bondo'd it before painting.

It does look like a layer of bondo on the bottom, then a silver/gray color with the red on top.

 

[bawb]

I bought my Craftsman DP used, but it probably dates to the 90's.

Yeah, mine's got the same exact table (and rack), motor mount/adjustment and pulley setup. I couldn't say this is Craftsman or not, but it sure came out of the same factory.

Whoever replaced the switch did you a disservice. The should be a second switch for a worklight that's hidden in the casting behind the quill.

Can you post a pic of yours with the correct switch?
I got the top off without breaking anything and now would be the rime to fix the switch.
The socket for the light is broken and if I can't match the one that's in there, I was thinking of getting a pull chain one to put in it.
And a pic of the label would be nice.


This thing weights just under 200lbs and I was guessing it was old just by the size.
It is more massive than my Rockwell 15-081 floor model.
How old does it take to qualify for Vintage tools?

 

[rlitman]

Can you post a pic of yours with the correct switch?
I got the top off without breaking anything and now would be the rime to fix the switch.
The socket for the light is broken and if I can't match the one that's in there, I was thinking of getting a pull chain one to put in it.
And a pic of the label would be nice.


This thing weights just under 200lbs and I was guessing it was old just by the size.
It is more massive than my Rockwell 15-081 floor model.
How old does it take to qualify for Vintage tools?

Nah, not vintage, but also not total ****. However, now that I'm looking again, you table has T slots, while mine has open bottom slots, so that part at least is not identical.

I could take one later if I remember, but it is something along these lines:

Basically, it's crappy plastic that breaks if you look at it the wrong way.
I just didn't want you to overlook the hidden secret light, but I wouldn't bother to find the correct switch plate either.

You could always get another metal plate and drill it for two new switches instead of one.

 

[bawb]

Thanks rlitman. I did notice the light bulb hidden up inside there when I was unloading it but was dissappointed when it didn't light up. That was a good part of my motivation of tearing it apart to get inside and see what was wrong. They had it wired to come on when the press was turned on, so I may keep it that way instead of adding another switch. But if I can't find the same socket, I may just use a pull chain socket after all.

 

[Drill]

Looks very similar to a 1983 Taiwan special I got at a "tool sale" before there were Harbor Freights. It lasted 30 years

 

[bawb]

Pic 1 The motor had no id on it, but I did find this inside the cover.
Looks like it could be wired either way 220 or 110. So what would be the smallest motor made that can go both ways?

Pic 2 Put the new light bulb socket in here.

Pic 3 It does look like someone used bondo. You can see some in the crack on the collar.

Pic 4&5 This was the best I could do with the label. It looks like a R, K, or maybe a F in the lower left corner. But in the middle it could be 'property of' which might make it an owners label and not a manufacturer's label.
Edit, the pic loaded upside down, even when I rotated and saved and reloaded, it still flipped when I uploaded it.