Any Input on New (to me) Quincy Compressor

[jeffesonm]

Hi all - I picked up this compressor today off Craigslist. It starts up, sounds (pretty good to the untrained ear), charges the tank to 140 psi and shuts off. Drained the oil before I laid it down in the truck, and it looked pretty good. Was owned by mechanic (who recently passed) so hopefully he took care of it. From the tags on the components and some searching, I've gathered I have:

Pump - Quincy QR 325 ROC 7
Motor - Leland 2 hp 115/220
Tank - 1957 (!) who knows what 80 gallon

Here are a few pics:

So a few questions:

• Only a 2 hp motor? Seems like the 325 pump is more commonly mated to a 5 hp. Also, this is the biggest 2hp motor I've ever seen.
• Oil pressure gauge looks buggered so I ordered a new one.
• I don't have 220 in the garage. Run it off 110 or excuse for a new circuit -or better yet- subpanel?
• Should I worry about this 58 year old tank? Looks to be in good shape, but...
• The line from the right side of the compressor (opposite side of dipstick) goes to nowhere. Where should it go?
• The lines on the top of the heads (what are those little things?) go nowhere. Do they need to?
• I gather that plate on the side is the inspection port? While the oil is drained, may as well take a peek?
• I found the Quincy site but the manuals only go back to ROC 9... still pretty impressive and I guess close enough-ish?

Thanks in advance.

 

[kunkernator]

I am not terribly knowledgeable about Quincy compressors (i know some guys here are thou). The only piece of advice I can offer you is, inspect the tank. Any used compressor I buy, I stick an inspection camera inside the tank to see how bad the rust is. Make sure you have a drain on the bottom of it as well, drain it often.

 

[RumT]

Quincy has great customer support. I called them with the serial number of my '74 210 and they emailed me the specific manuals for my unit. The fitting opposite of the dipstick should be the crankcase breather. The lines on top of the head are for decompression. On some units, the pump is set up so that when air pressure reaches a set point, overcoming the oil pressure, one of the valves (can't remember which) is held open so no compression is built. The older gas driven units were like that. Though mine is electric driven, I have mine set up on a double throw switch. One way powers through the pressure cut off switch, letting it start and stop like a normal compressor. Good if I am not running high demand stuff, like short uses of an air blower, or the kids want to air bike tires and I don't want to hear the compressor constantly run in the shop. The other switch selection powers the contactor directly without pressure cut out and allows the decompression feature to work. This way if I am running my blast cabinet and have high demand, the air pressure catches up, decompresses the pump, motor continues to run and provided cooling air to the cylinders, and the pressurized oil system continues to run, circulating oil. These have a pressurized oil system, like a car. There should be a manifold above the round six bolt housing to adjust the pressure threshold at which it decompresses.

Can you take a better pic of the pump?

 

[AndyCBR]

I don't want to be an alarmist but that tank is close to 60 years old.

Unless it was drained religiously I would consider it suspect. Judging by the outside condition it sure looks like it has spent some time in a high humidity environment.

Make sure the tank is sound before you proceed. You can visually inspect the inside and also do a hydrostatic test with a grease gun without too much trouble.

 

[jeffesonm]

Here are some better pictures of the compressor:

There was a drain on the tank about 1/3 of the way up the one side. With maybe 20 psi in the tank, I tiled it over with the tractor and opened the drain. There was a constant stream of water coming out for probably 5+ minutes. I watched in amazement for a bit, then took this video, then found a 1.5L water bottle and filled it up in maybe 20 seconds, and then watched it continue for a bit. Eventually it turned from a steady stream to more of a mist, which continued for 10 minutes or so.

I don't have a teeny camera but I guess I should try and get a peek inside the tank. My buddy has a 60 gallon vertical air receiver tank in decent shape, but maybe I'll get lucky with this one.

 

[Strouty]

I would be worried about the bottom of the tank, I can't understand why the drain wasn't on the bottom of it? Is there at least a bung there?

 

[Kmaysob]

I would be worried about the bottom of the tank, I can't understand why the drain wasn't on the bottom of it? Is there at least a bung there?

More than likely, It has a tube that leads to the bottom of the tank. My curtis is like this.

 

[MacMcMacmac]

Here are some better pictures of the compressor:

That cut line goes around to the other side of the compressor pump and hooks up to the crankcase breather puck at the top of the crankcase. There should be some stuff inside that like a pcv valve.

The unloader towers hook up to the square hydraulic unloader valve down on the side of the crankcase. The valve gets a signal from the tank. When oil pressure is low, this valve allows air to reach the unloader towers and hold open the inlet valves on both cylinders. This allows for loadless starts, and also blows down both cylinders when it stops, and oil pressure disappears and lets the valve pass air once more. It is an excellent system and I would get it working again.

There was a drain on the tank about 1/3 of the way up the one side. With maybe 20 psi in the tank, I tiled it over with the tractor and opened the drain. There was a constant stream of water coming out for probably 5+ minutes. I watched in amazement for a bit, then took this video, then found a 1.5L water bottle and filled it up in maybe 20 seconds, and then watched it continue for a bit. Eventually it turned from a steady stream to more of a mist, which continued for 10 minutes or so.

I don't have a teeny camera but I guess I should try and get a peek inside the tank. My buddy has a 60 gallon vertical air receiver tank in decent shape, but maybe I'll get lucky with this one.

I'd be very suspicious of that tank.

I'd also install an in-tank check valve so that the exhaust valve on the HP cylinder doesn't act as the check valve (common cost cutting move by both Quincy and Curtis). It makes it easier to troubleshot the compressor by obviating the need to blow down the tank if some minor disassembly is required.

 

[AndyCBR]

More than likely, It has a tube that leads to the bottom of the tank. My curtis is like this.

If so then OP likely didn't get all the water out by tipping it sideways..

I guess the only way the tube would work would be upright with the help of air pressure from the tank.


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[jeffesonm]

Thanks all for the input thus far.

The piping from the compressor to the tank and from the tank to the regulator/filter/etc is all pretty rusty inside. I think I will use my buddy's 60 gal receiver tank instead of this old one, but hydro test that newer one as well.

Here is the inside of the crank case:

There was just a little sludge on the bottom which I scooped out as best I could. The oil pickup screen is intact and clean. I got the new oil pressure gauge in so will get that back together, fill it up and see what pressure it's getting to.

I also noticed the square block on the side for the hydraulic unloader valve is oriented side-to-side versus top/bottom on the diagrams.

 

[pcmeiners]

Nice score.... Not sure I would have been brave enough to be near the 1957 tank while bringing up the pressure.

 

[jeffesonm]

Oil pressure was at 10 or so. I was able to adjust it up to 19 using the adjustment screw. Maybe the unloader valve never opened due to low oil pressure so they were just disconnected? I guess I will try hooking them back up and see what happens.

If I understand the operation correctly, I need to hook up the other end of the valve to an air tank that has some pressure in it? So that it flows back to the unloaders? For testing, can I hook that up to the output line on my pancake compressor?

 

[jeffesonm]

Picked up my "new" tank... it's actually older than the other one with a born-on-date of 1946. It came from an industrial setting though and looks perfect. I can see clearly through both of the 2" ports and the tank is clean and rust free inside. It's a 60 gallon and already has a drain on the bottom. It also came with that muffler on the side so maybe it was an expansion tank or something. I think I will hydro test it anyhow just for peace of mind, maybe one day next week when it's hot outside so it dries quickly.

 

[ryanm]

wow, that seems like a good bit of water. things like that always make me think twice about buying a used tank. even with a pre purchase inspection, i'd be worried that maybe a crack or weak spot had been missed. thats cool you found another tank! looks like a nice setup

 

[larry_g]

Does your 'new' tank have a tag on it noting the working and max pressure? If not then it may not be a certified pressure vessel and unsuitable for your purposes. Do your due diligence in confirming this is a pressure vessel.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[MacMcMacmac]

Oil pressure was at 10 or so. I was able to adjust it up to 19 using the adjustment screw. Maybe the unloader valve never opened due to low oil pressure so they were just disconnected? I guess I will try hooking them back up and see what happens.

If I understand the operation correctly, I need to hook up the other end of the valve to an air tank that has some pressure in it? So that it flows back to the unloaders? For testing, can I hook that up to the output line on my pancake compressor?

That port is most likely an escape route for the pressurized air when the unloaders push open the inlet valves. On later designs, the towers are taller and the ports are on the side of the unloader tower "column". It also provides ingress/egress for air under the unloader diaphragms when they move.

You can use any source of air to test out the function of the unloader valve.

 

[G_P]

Picked up my "new" tank... it's actually older than the other one with a born-on-date of 1946. It came from an industrial setting though and looks perfect. I can see clearly through both of the 2" ports and the tank is clean and rust free inside. It's a 60 gallon and already has a drain on the bottom. It also came with that muffler on the side so maybe it was an expansion tank or something. I think I will hydro test it anyhow just for peace of mind, maybe one day next week when it's hot outside so it dries quickly.

Pretty sure thats a water tank. No mounting plate and a fitting in the center of the top just screams water tank. I have one very similar in my basement.
It is likely not certified or safe to use that as an air compressor tank.

 

[MacMcMacmac]

To me, it looks like it was used as some sort of shock absorption accumulator so the muffler wouldn't blow apart when whatever was venting let go. It looks like a water tank to me too.

 

[jeffesonm]

Not sure what the tank was originally used for, but it does have a tag that says max working pressure 200 PSI.

Got my water pressure test setup going today. I used the hose to fill the tank until it was coming out the top, then closed the ball valve on top. Water pressure brought it up to about 40 and then pumped it up to 200 using a grease gun. I couldn't get the zerk to stop leaking so I just removed it and connected the shaft of the grease gun directly to the fitting.

Held it at 200 for a little over an hour and no leaks, no drop in pressure so I'm feeling pretty good about using it for the compressor. Drained all the water and sprayed it out with some compressed air to try and dry it better. Tomorrow once it's all dry inside I will put a little oil in there and spin it around a few times to try and coat the walls a bit.
Then I need to order a drain valve, relief valve and check valve, and figure out how/where I'm going to mount the compressor, motor and tank.

 

[AndyCBR]

Looks like you've done your due diligence (moreso than others would have).

Let us know how the finished product comes out!

 

[jeffesonm]

I am finally get this thing put back together. The motor is wired for 220V and has two hot wires but nowhere I can tell to connect the ground wire. Do I just put a wire nut on the ground? That feels wrong.......

 

[AndyCBR]

Usually there is a wire attached to the chassis or bonded to the motor.

If none are available I would ground it to a bolt on the motor somewhere.

The idea here is that if there is a fault in the motor the housing/compressor doesn't become energized.


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[Trey T]

The "port" is to vent the unloaded pressure to atmosphere or plumb it to the head on the intake side, IIRC.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Tomorrow once it's all dry inside I will put a little oil in there and spin it around a few times to try and coat the walls a bit.

I know I am late, but you should take a couple of hand fulls of washed pea gravel or even old fasteners and throw them in the tank. Hook up some kind of a "rotisserie" and rotate the tank fir a good 30 minutes. Remove gravel/fasteners. Rinse, repeatedly until it is clean. Let dry a couple of days in the sun. Then add about a quart of Rustoleum and roll the tank some more for at least 30 minutes. Very little should come out.

 

[jeffesonm]

I ended up mounting both the compressor and the new tank to concrete slabs I had lying around from an old walkway.

I still need to clean up the air lines a bit and add a little roof to keep it somewhat protected from the elements. It's under the actual roof overhang but still gets some sideways rain. Also need to run some distribution piping back into the garage... probably do copper since there's not that much, it looks pretty and I like sweating pipes.

In case anyone was wondering, here's what the inside of the original tank looked like.

Finally, what is this extra hose that is coming out of I guess the crankcase? Where does that go?

 

[DirtyJersey]

You can visually inspect the inside and also do a hydrostatic test with a grease gun without too much trouble.

Exsplain please



Texting while driving

 

[AndyCBR]

Exsplain please



Texting while driving

See post 19 in this thread.



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[DirtyJersey]

K so how many pumps does it take to pump it 160 psi? Lol

Pretty cool though

Texting while driving