I want to cover the bottom 8 ft of my shop in some type of wood. I originally thought about 3/4” plywood but then I saw some pictures where someone had covered their walls in Stained T11 siding and it looked good But it is not as thick as 3/4” plywood. I k ow I don’t want OSB. Anyone have any other ideas?
Any other ideas other than T11
- Thread starter Ran58
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whateg01
Well-known member
Isn't t1-11 just osb that has a fake wood look on the front side? Are you wanting to be able to screw stuff to it? Or are you just wanting that look?
FredWanaker
Well-known member
drywall it. easier to repair when you hang something then decide to move it. It is also non-flammable.
Garcky
Well-known member
T1-11 was super-popular as exterior siding in the 1970s. Our townhome had it for siding, and it was built in 1974. Last year, we got new vinyl siding throughout the development. The T1-11 still looked OK, but seemed dated. How long will the vinyl siding last? Not as long, but siding isn't a responsibility of the owners of the units. That's an HOA responsibility, so we didn't have to pay for the new siding.
There's nothing wrong with that stuff, really. Using it as an interior finish in a shop would work very well, and it's thick enough, as plywood, for solid mounting of almost anything. OSB isn't.
It's not a cheap way to finish interior walls, but it's sturdy and can be painted or finished in many ways.
There's nothing wrong with that stuff, really. Using it as an interior finish in a shop would work very well, and it's thick enough, as plywood, for solid mounting of almost anything. OSB isn't.
It's not a cheap way to finish interior walls, but it's sturdy and can be painted or finished in many ways.
Stuart in MN
Well-known member
Since you already have a metal ceiling, I think I'd go with it on the walls too. If you're thinking about aesthetics, mixing a bunch of different kinds of finishes may not be the way to go.
Walkers
Well-known member
Hardy plank
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Where is your HOA getting the money for the siding?
Garcky
Well-known member
From HOA dues. Part of the monthly dues goes into a repairs/improvements fund. That's been going on since 1974. Now, in 2022, new siding was funded by the funds already paid. For us, since we bought our unit in 2021, the siding came at no additional cost to us. We knew that when we made the offer on our place, and that was one of the reasons we chose that development.
We pay $240/month in HOA dues. In exchange, all structural building maintenance is covered, along with trash collection, landscaping care, and snow removal. Everyone got a new roof in 2018. It's a small HOA, and is not intrusive at all. We're part of three similar developments that are essentially identical. The development just up the main drag is getting their new siding this spring. That's for eight four-unit homes. The year after that, another development gets new siding. That's the order they were built in.
The only thing not covered that I wish was is trees. If they're adjacent to a unit, they are the responsibility of the owners of that unit. For us, that means that a 50 year old ash tree in front of ours has to be removed this year, due to emerald ash borer. So, we get to pay for that.
Why are you putting up wall covering and what functional needs does it have to meet? Fire proof, impact resistant, hanging shelving or other stuff in random places, or just be fashionable? Consider some slatwall in places, drywall in others and plywood in others. Make the walls serve you, not present you with future problems. Not all walls in the building have to be the same material. The materials may be dictated by what the intended use of the space is. Welding and fab could be different than woodworking or auto detailing.
lg
no neat sig line
lg
no neat sig line
73fxe
Well-known member
I've had t1-11 in My garage for 20+ years. It still looks the same as when I put it up. It is plywood not osb. It does need to be air dusted once or twice a year to keep the dust off.
OP, I would guess your issue is the puppy OSB that you installed is already 3/4" ?
You could add a trim board like a chair rail to separate the upper and lower sheets.
You could add a trim board like a chair rail to separate the upper and lower sheets.
Sheer coincidence. Read this issue last night. Dated use of plywood. Might be some version you like. Page 204 +-.
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firebirdparts
Well-known member
Plywood. And boy that 0.6 inch stuff is heavy. I’d be plenty satisfied with that.
Innovate1
Well-known member
Depends on the look you want, what you are doing in the shop (fireproof if you are welding for example), etc. We did plywood on the upper and T1-11 up to 8'. With a strip where they meet sort of like a chair rail. T1-11 is rough so not ideal for easy cleaning and repairs will never match well.
Toolfool
Well-known member
Painted 5/8" CDX plywood. (orange lines designate where electric wire runs and mini-split condensate lines are for future reference)
Yes. I’m putting steel in ceiling and then down 4 ft. Trying what to do with the bottom 8 ft.
No. That OSB that is in the top 4 ft will be covered in metal like the ceiling. Trying to decide what to do with the bottom 8 ft.
Isn’t this pretty pricey?
Are you talking about individual boards or something that comes in a panel? When I was looking at the T11, they had something near it that looked like tongue and groove panel but it was thinner and had a smoother surface.
I wonder how it would do to put OSB under it to make an even stiffer subsurface
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I would assume it would much more expensive then sheet goods. Quick look on the Depots website shows $.67 per foot for 3 1/2" wide board
I was talking about putting up lath horizontally across the poles and then paneling the walls with individual tongue and groove.
I'm sure you can get something that looks similar as a sheet good, if it isn't cheaper it would be a large bit faster.
Natty Bumppo
Well-known member
I went with 1x10 shiplap on the lower 8'. It was more expensive than OSB or sheetrock, yes. But I'm talking maybe $300 more expensive. I bought it from a local mom and pop sawmill...air dried. Not really that bad.
Leaflessshadetree
Well-known member
I used 1/2" plywood (actually 15/32"). Honestly I don't see any advantage to 3/4". If something is heavy enough that I can't screw/attach to 1/2" plywood I wouldn't trust 3/4" either so I'm attaching to the studs (which I usually do anyway).
That 1x10 shiplap looks a lot more "finished".
I almost wish I had priced it but with 12ft walls and a 30x40 space I imagine the cost difference would be quite a bit more than $300. Especially 10 years ago.
That 1x10 shiplap looks a lot more "finished".
I almost wish I had priced it but with 12ft walls and a 30x40 space I imagine the cost difference would be quite a bit more than $300. Especially 10 years ago.
FordTruckWench
Well-known member
Great idea! When not needed for reference, it's a conversation starter.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
The biggest problem with T1-11 is if the bottom edge gets wet (to close to the ground, snow) the moisture will wick up and rot the plywood. Cut off the bottom 2' or 4' and teplace.
I’m going the T&G 3/4 osb. Primed, painted, and seam caulked it seems just fine. Not as attractive as a detailed design but realistically I’m the only one seeing it most of the time. So for the money I just felt this option was well enough.
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HoosierBuddy
Well-known member
I went with T1-11 for the first 8 feet and then #2 steel above (same as the ceiling). My garage was built 17 years ago, and I've never regretted this choice.
It's durable, you can remove it to get to stuff behind it without as much issue as drywall. You can hang stuff on it. You can get it wet (as it's rated for exterior). The Amish that built my garage used the scraps to trim out the windows even. I didn't stain mine, I just left it as-is.
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SellersMachineCo
Well-known member
I am attaching 2x4s horizontally and then going with used barn tin on the bottom 4’ and beadboard plywood on the top 8’. There will be a 1x4 chair rail trim between the two, and also a treated 1x4 on the bottom 1/4” off the floor.
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b974k
Active member
T1-11 is plywood looks great and I can hang anything I want I dont bother to paint looks great natural
ddurrett896
Well-known member
I did the same thing but with 1x12 and it looks killer. Plus every 4 rows I used screws, making it easier for future electrical runs.I went with 1x10 shiplap on the lower 8'. It was more expensive than OSB or sheetrock, yes. But I'm talking maybe $300 more expensive. I bought it from a local mom and pop sawmill...air dried. Not really that bad.
Natty Bumppo
Well-known member
Yeah...good call. I used screws on every course, and in the 4 years the barn has been up I've already removed sections twice for a few electrical runs I wanted to add. Makes it easy. This summer I want to add an exterior outlet and will do the same...pop a few boards and extend a run.