Any quick fix for this Electrical Box problem?

[Jsf721]

Little back story- So my wife is so concerned with small appliances causing a fire that she insists on unplugging the toaster oven and coffee maker after each use. OK-been married 25 years and this in not new, been going on the whole time. She's a good girl so I have decided I'm keeping her. LOL

Today I noticed the plug next to the coffee maker is loose, removed the cover plate and went to tighten the screw that tightens outlet to the metal box. It's the lower screw. It seems the lower hole on the box is stripped to the point that I can get the screw in, but its got such a loose bite on the metal that it pulls out easily. This coupled by the fact that the coffee maker plus fits tightly into all outlets to the pulling of the plug required some effort.

I am not familiar enough with electricity and what can go wrong with electricity that I don't want to mess with the wires. I know changing the box out is the correct repair. I am wondering if there is a quick easy solution that does not involve removal of the box.

I went to HD this morning and nobody there had any ideas. I used the screw guide to determine that the screw that was in place is a #6-32, I purchased a new #6-32 ion case the screw is stripped not the box, #8-32 and a Metric somewhere in the middle as well as a #8 self tapping sheet metal screw with a point. I am at work for a few hours and when I get home I would love to get this repair competed.

If it can be done, I am sure someone will know how.

Open top all suggestions.

Thanks,

Jeff

 

[Doug Arthurs]

Take a 8-32 tap, chuck it in your drill and run it into the stripped hole, then use the 8-32 screw.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

Small sheetmetal screw.

 

[cbogg]

Self tapping 8/32 screws can be found. Probably best off going to an electrical supply house to find them, I know lowes and hd here don't carry them. There are also screwdrivers out there for this very purpose, figure about 20$ on Amazon. No sense in replacing it if it can be fixed. Might want to invest in the tool As I'm guessing this won't be the last one you'll have to fix.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Tommy

 

[Jsf721]

Gentlemen thank you very much for the suggestion. I will be getting one of these screw drivers on the way home from work.

I much appreciate you all taking the time to help me solve the problem. I hope to be able to help should I see posts in my area of knowledge.

Have a great day all!!!!!!!

Take a 8-32 tap, chuck it in your drill and run it into the stripped hole, then use the 8-32 screw.

Small sheetmetal screw.

Self tapping 8/32 screws can be found. Probably best off going to an electrical supply house to find them, I know lowes and hd here don't carry them. There are also screwdrivers out there for this very purpose, figure about 20$ on Amazon. No sense in replacing it if it can be fixed. Might want to invest in the tool As I'm guessing this won't be the last one you'll have to fix.

Tommy

 

[cgrutt]

That Klein tap is awesome!

Is the box metal or plastic? I think the ideas above are great if the box is metal but not sure they will help if you've got a plastic box that may have split. In that case, I might try setting a small piece of wood (matchstick or toothpick) in the hole with some epoxy and then using a small sheetmetal screw. I've also come across some drywall screws being used in stripped boxes. They seem to have a courser thread and work OK.

 

[Norcal]

I use thread inserts (Heli Coils) on stripped plastic boxes, that way OEM screws still can be used instead of jury rigged methods.

 

[Richard Cranium]

save your money on the screw driver tap, Just purchase a self tapping screw the next size up and put it in with a regular screw driver.

 

[Jsf721]

Its a metal box

That Klein tap is awesome!

Is the box metal or plastic? I think the ideas above are great if the box is metal but not sure they will help if you've got a plastic box that may have split. In that case, I might try setting a small piece of wood (matchstick or toothpick) in the hole with some epoxy and then using a small sheetmetal screw. I've also come across some drywall screws being used in stripped boxes. They seem to have a courser thread and work OK.

 

[checkthisout]

Its a metal box

Put a nut behind the tab. Probably got one in your junk drawer already.

 

[nadogail]

Put a nut behind the tab. Probably got one in your junk drawer already.

I doubt if that will work, how will you fit your fingers in the tiny space to hold the nut.

I probably would use a drywall screw.

 

[Jsf721]

Ended up using a toothpick whittled down in the hole and then the original screw. Worked like a charm. Went to get the tap driver but hd did not have. Will buy one online to put in the to box.

 

[checkthisout]

I doubt if that will work, how will you fit your fingers in the tiny space to hold the nut.

I probably would use a drywall screw.

Whatever works.

I was going to suggest the toothpick or piece of plastic trick that he used but then he said it was a metal box.

 

[matt_i]

I don't think that tap-screwdriver is the tool for enlarging a 6-32 to an 8-32 even with the proper size tap drill piloted in first. When you think about the torque needed usually requires a T-handle tap wrench (or drill), it would take a strongman to twist that tool in, and keep it aligned without breaking the tap portion. Corollary, how many 3-1/2" deck screws can you drive to full depth by hand vs. how many can your cordless drill do?

That's just a tool for repairing bunged lead threads if you ask me. If the thread crests are stripped out of the box to the point of not tightening, its time for a self-tapper as above. Could also drill and tap to 8-32 as suggested, this will take more tools and more time but be rock solid forever in my opinion.

 

[bczygan]

Ya learn new stuff every day on this here site!

And tell the wife that there's still dangerous electricity in the lines all the way back to the power plant and that she should shut off the mains every night or pull the meter.

Me, I call up Edison and ask them to shut down the reactor whenever I work on the electric.

Bill

 

[Katodog]

Teks screws. Quickest fix there is.

 

[Brian_WK]

A clip nut on the box would work as well.

Brian

 

[914wilhelm]

Trouble with drywall screws is they are quite pointy and can penetrate insulation of wires in the box. That will cause a little bit of excitement (or excrement) when it happens. The Klein tool, although a bit pricy, (Home Depot usually has them in the Klein tools display) is good quality and I have used them to thread holes in boxes that needed it. The taps are usually rated for a maximum metal thickness and typically have no issue with 16 gauge of metal boxes.

 

[Shiftless]

on the suggestion to use a self tapping size 8 screw.
And a definate NO to the idea of using a drywall screw.
If you pierce the wire insulation inside the box you will have worse problems than one loose mounting screw!

 

[Shiftless]

on the suggestion to use a self tapping size 8 screw.
And a definate NO to the idea of using a drywall screw.
If you pierce the insulation you will have worse problems than one loose mounting screw!

Also, in case you don't already have it, you should consider GFCI protection not only in the kitchen, but in the bathrooms, your garage, and all outdoor receptacles.

 

[fastbike02]

what about using epoxy in the hole with the screw

 

[914wilhelm]

If you don't want to put in a bigger screw I have sometimes squeezed the hole shut a bit (like an oval) by squeezing with a vise grips or whacking the flange with a chisel and hammer and running the 6/32 tap back through it.

 

[tfi racing]

Ughh.Really,its a stupid screw.Get over yourselves-nah some of you are on the right track,the only safe solution is to strip the house to the bare studs and totally re-wire it to a standard far beyond what any code specifies,while you're at that,better tackle the neighbour's house as well, its about to burst into flames at any moment.

 

[checkthisout]

Ughh.Really,its a stupid screw.Get over yourselves-nah some of you are on the right track,the only safe solution is to strip the house to the bare studs and totally re-wire it to a standard far beyond what any code specifies,while you're at that,better tackle the neighbour's house as well, its about to burst into flames at any moment.

The neighbor never posted in this thread.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

That's just a tool for repairing bunged lead threads if you ask me. If the thread crests are stripped out of the box to the point of not tightening, its time for a self-tapper as above. Could also drill and tap to 8-32 as suggested, this will take more tools and more time but be rock solid forever in my opinion.

That tool DOES drill and tap to the next size screw... It's specifically designed for that type of thing.

Tommy

 

[The mean fish]

Small sheetmetal screw.

It's generally a bad idea to use anything with a sharp point on it going into an electrical box.

 

[Stuff]

Sharp point could be OK if this is a standard metal receptacle box because the hole is on the outside tab.

If it is a metal mud ring then sharp is bad but it could be changed out with just a bit of plaster work.

 

[Jsf721]

Thanks and yes, It is a GFCI as are all the outlets in the kitchen and bathrooms.

on the suggestion to use a self tapping size 8 screw.
And a definate NO to the idea of using a drywall screw.
If you pierce the insulation you will have worse problems than one loose mounting screw!

Also, in case you don't already have it, you should consider GFCI protection not only in the kitchen, but in the bathrooms, your garage, and all outdoor receptacles.

 

[bubinga]

Little back story- So my wife is so concerned with small appliances causing a fire that she insists on unplugging the toaster oven and coffee maker after each use. OK-been married 25 years and this in not new, been going on the whole time. She's a good girl so I have decided I'm keeping her. LOL

Today I noticed the plug next to the coffee maker is loose, removed the cover plate and went to tighten the screw that tightens outlet to the metal box. It's the lower screw. It seems the lower hole on the box is stripped to the point that I can get the screw in, but its got such a loose bite on the metal that it pulls out easily. This coupled by the fact that the coffee maker plus fits tightly into all outlets to the pulling of the plug required some effort.

I am not familiar enough with electricity and what can go wrong with electricity that I don't want to mess with the wires. I know changing the box out is the correct repair. I am wondering if there is a quick easy solution that does not involve removal of the box.

I went to HD this morning and nobody there had any ideas. I used the screw guide to determine that the screw that was in place is a #6-32, I purchased a new #6-32 ion case the screw is stripped not the box, #8-32 and a Metric somewhere in the middle as well as a #8 self tapping sheet metal screw with a point. I am at work for a few hours and when I get home I would love to get this repair competed.

If it can be done, I am sure someone will know how.

Open top all suggestions.

Thanks,

Jeff

on a side note, my girlfriend insists that a regular old style (not electronic) toaster uses electric if left plugged in.

 

[bubinga]

Self tapping 8/32 screws can be found. Probably best off going to an electrical supply house to find them, I know lowes and hd here don't carry them. There are also screwdrivers out there for this very purpose, figure about 20$ on Amazon. No sense in replacing it if it can be fixed. Might want to invest in the tool As I'm guessing this won't be the last one you'll have to fix.

Tommy

Cool, never saw these. So, what, there are 3 different sizes on the tap part?

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

Today I noticed the plug next to the coffee maker is loose.

The "plug" is loose? Or is the outlet or the receptacle is loose?

If your wife is concerned about the plugged in small appliances being a fire hazard, have you sat he down and talked to her about the potential risks of possible back stabbing of receptacles?

Old, back stabbed outlets can arc to the point of being hazardous. You might want to consider pulling all the receptacles in the house and replacing them with commercial grade back stabbed receptacles, and as another poster mentioned ... add more GFCI receptacles.

on a side note, my girlfriend insists that a regular old style (not electronic) toaster uses electric if left plugged in.

And there is NO convincing her or her Dad anything different.

 

[bubinga]

And there is NO convincing her or her Dad anything different.

No, there is not, I have tried.

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

No, there is not, I have tried.

I'll bet we could have a really successful thread of inaccurate things Dad's have told their kids that you can't convince the kids of.

 

[MoonRise]

Cool, never saw these. So, what, there are 3 different sizes on the tap part?

Pretty much.

Klein lists a triple tap tool 625-24 (6-32, 8-32, and 10-24).

http://www.kleintools.com/catalog/tapping-tools/triple-taps

Also a 625-32 (6-32, 8-32, and 10-32).

http://www.kleintools.com/catalog/tapping-tools/triple-taps-0

And a six-way cushion grip tool, 626 (6-32, 8-32, 10-32, 10-24, 12-24, and 1/4-20).

http://www.kleintools.com/catalog/tapping-tools/cushion-grip-6-1-tapping-tool

Insert tool into a hole. If there are existing threads, try to line up the tap threads with the existing threads to 'clean up' the existing threads. If there are no existing threads, the tool will let you cut new threads in an appropriately sized hole. If existing threads are stripped or otherwise beyond hope, use the tool to ream out the old threads and then retap to the next large size thread.

 

[bubinga]

I'll bet we could have a really successful thread of inaccurate things Dad's have told their kids that you can't convince the kids of.

thats funny, I'll bet we could.
I didn't know my dad, but my grandfather was a professional union electrician, and could pretty well fix anything, so I don't recall him telling me anything far fetched.

 

[bubinga]

Pretty much.

Klein lists a triple tap tool 625-24 (6-32, 8-32, and 10-24).

http://www.kleintools.com/catalog/tapping-tools/triple-taps

Also a 625-32 (6-32, 8-32, and 10-32).

http://www.kleintools.com/catalog/tapping-tools/triple-taps-0

And a six-way cushion grip tool, 626 (6-32, 8-32, 10-32, 10-24, 12-24, and 1/4-20).

http://www.kleintools.com/catalog/tapping-tools/cushion-grip-6-1-tapping-tool

Insert tool into a hole. If there are existing threads, try to line up the tap threads with the existing threads to 'clean up' the existing threads. If there are no existing threads, the tool will let you cut new threads in an appropriately sized hole. If existing threads are stripped or otherwise beyond hope, use the tool to ream out the old threads and then retap to the next large size thread.

very cool, thanks.
is it generally considered true that a fine thread holds tighter than a Coarse ?

 

[Zeke]

Take a 8-32 tap, chuck it in your drill and run it into the stripped hole, then use the 8-32 screw.

Way overkill.

I don't think that tap-screwdriver is the tool for enlarging a 6-32 to an 8-32 even with the proper size tap drill piloted in first. When you think about the torque needed usually requires a T-handle tap wrench (or drill), it would take a strongman to twist that tool in, and keep it aligned without breaking the tap portion. Corollary, how many 3-1/2" deck screws can you drive to full depth by hand vs. how many can your cordless drill do?

That's just a tool for repairing bunged lead threads if you ask me. If the thread crests are stripped out of the box to the point of not tightening, its time for a self-tapper as above. Could also drill and tap to 8-32 as suggested, this will take more tools and more time but be rock solid forever in my opinion.

The metal on most boxes is quite soft. I've had some from before WWII that were a much harder steel, but that's not too common unless you primarily work in historic homes. But following your theme, one could drill out with the appropriate tap drill first. Might be a good idea to throw one in your bag. It's a 9/64ths bit.

And, if you encounter a luminaire box that is stripped, use a 5/32nds before threading for a 10/32 screw. I believe that's the new size for fan boxes.

 

[SALIV8]

I also unplug the coffee maker after each use. The last Mr. Coffee brewer I had, the switch started smoking out of the blue while it was sitting on the countertop (Luckily I was home at the time and saw it and unplugged it!)

I figured they use the cheapest switches and QC is not what is used to be. Id much rather replace a worn out outlet then risk a house fire becuase of a $30 coffee maker's 5 cent switch.

So I agree with your wife!!

 

[Jsf721]

The actual outlet was loose bc the lower screw securing it to the box was stripped. Not sure what you mean about back stabbing but i think you mean loose/exposed wires touching the metal box. I looked and it did not appear that anything loosened up. I really need someone to show me how to handle light switches and outlets, bc honestly, i don't mess with any electricity because i don't know what I'm doing.

The "plug" is loose? Or is the outlet or the receptacle is loose?

If your wife is concerned about the plugged in small appliances being a fire hazard, have you sat he down and talked to her about the potential risks of possible back stabbing of receptacles?

Old, back stabbed outlets can arc to the point of being hazardous. You might want to consider pulling all the receptacles in the house and replacing them with commercial grade back stabbed receptacles, and as another poster mentioned ... add more GFCI receptacles.



And there is NO convincing her or her Dad anything different.