Any Quincy Air Compressor Guru's Here?

[seagiant]

Hi,
Picked up this Quincy 310-24 Air Compressor today.

Almost did not get it even though it works just fine but the Flywheel is not straight and wobbles a bit.

Hoping not a shaft bent but just someone did not put it on straight and something I can fix.

Anyone running a 310 or know anything about these Pumps, I'm all ears!

A pic from the Seller, picked it up for $75!

Had to tear it down to load it in my Element, too darn heavy these days!!!

 

[MacMcMacmac]

Tank looks sketchy. Looks like a vertical tank laid down with a saddle welded on from another tank. I'd find another and swap it over. Still a great deal for $75.

A wobbly flywheel is a good indication the whole thing has been flopped over on its side at some point usually when someone has tried to move it by lifting it from under the tank. Sometimes you can put a hydraulic ram between the flywheel inner face and block and press it over center to true it up. I'd leave it if it wasn't too bad, might be opening a can of worms.

 

[seagiant]

Hi,
Thanks the Tank is a Craftsman and is original Horz. Tank.

Pulled the Crank Shaft and put it in the Lathe and it is bent .076 out at the Fly Wheel side Bearing.

Hard to fix that even if I turned down the Fly Wheel Stub, and resleeved it, I would not get the bend out, my opinion anyway?

 

[MichaelP]

Are you using lathe chuck to hold the crankshaft? Is so, don't expect to see any numbers you can rely on.

You need to measure it between centers: either stand alone ones used in metrology or between lathe centers after verifying their concentricity with a test bar.

Did you check TIR of the shaft at the flywheel end before removing it from the compressor? If you could find a way to rotate it while testing, this would be the most simple way to figure out if wobbling comes from the shaft or flywheel.

 

[MacMcMacmac]

I've straightened out cranks worse than that. If it was me, i'd put it in a hydraulic press and do the business, but it's your machine. If you aren't comfortable with that, don't do it. I know cast can be an unpredictable material. It's probably more of an aesthetic issue than anything else. For $75, maybe it's just worth living with.

 

[seagiant]

Hi,
Well, admittedly the option of my 20T Press scared me with a Cast IRON Crank...

Decided to sacrifice the Roller Bearings and get it in the Lathe to turn it down.

Pulled the Bearings and pulled out the 4 Jaw Chuck and it had problems so went with the 3 Jaw.

Put my long indicator on the stub at the Chuck and it was of .002-3 about and I called it good, wanted to get this going...

Cut about .070 to get the bend out and the tailstock end was out .002 after clean up, better than .076, I guess, and now need to make a Sleeve.

I do not see why this won't work, of course now I need 2 more Bearings but they were probably ready to be replaced anyway!

The Pump will need some Valve work, also...

 

[Speed-Racer]

Cool project and it’s amazing you can save it. Compressor motor has a unique belt adjuster. Please post a rebuild thread.

 

[Steve_P]

So, I know you already fixed it, but when I worked at a small engine shop, we'd straighten cast crankshafts all the time when a mower hit a rock and bent it. We didn't necessarily tell them we straightened it, but the aluminum sump on the block would break before the crankshaft. I can't remember a crankshaft ever failing during straightening, or after, but we also wouldn't bother if it was majorly bent. But even .12" would be a typical repair. Yes, I know this isn't recommended, replace the part....

Impressive work on the repair though!

 

[seagiant]

Hi,
Thanks, the old Clausing (1940's) got me through...

Hopefully it works, had to hit the numbers on this one, as the Bearing, Oil Seal, and Flywheel. all go on this Shaft, and has to be pretty darn close!

We will see!