Any subaru owners here?

[Ksullivan]

The valve cover gaskets are easy but same deal as the plugs you need to take the wiper reservoir out and the air box out use a shallow 10 mm in 1/4" drive with a flex head ratchet for the valve cover bolts. Use a torque wrench to tighten down bolts. This is important.

 

[soloz2]

"Seriously, on a Subie skip the torx and allen" Not necessarily so....
Should you wish to change the front & rear diff. fluid (assuming yours is an automatic) you'll need a Torx T-70 in 1/2" drive. On the rear diff., loosen the upper plug first. That way you'll be sure you're able to get the stuff back in once you take it out.

Subarus are fun to work on.

Depends on the year. My diff's use a 13mm square plug.

The advice on loosening the filler cap before opening the drain is very good!

Glad to see other Subie owners! I currently have in my drive:
98 outback
06 Legacy 2.5i
14 Forester XT

If you know anyone in western NY that wants a good deal on the outback just let me know! I don't need 3 cars.

Anyway, here's what I've found... And please don't be too judgy on spelling/punctuation as I'm on my phone and auto correct is not working for some reason.

My 06 Legacy 2.5i 5MT My transmission uses t70 and rear diff square drive. I know they make a specific bit, but i was able to use 1/2" drive

You'll want reg and deep sockets in 1/4 3/8 and 1/2 and some extensions. If you dont get everything to start just get 3/8 thats what i use the most.

Flex wrenches are a lifesaver! I have a locking craftsman set and use them all the time, but it doesnt come with 14mm. Advance has the non-locking gearwrench set on sale for 35 so I'd recommend that.

Ratchets, I have craftsman that ****, but I didn't know any better.
I picked up some napa/gearwrench roto ratchets in 1/4 and 3/8 that are fantastic. I highly recommend them.
If you can still get in on the deal lowes has a kobolt spark plug set on sale for 10ish. The flex ratchet is pretty nice.
HF has a few good items. I use a jack and jack stands. You can grab a 1/2 adjustable length ratchet while there. I dont have one but know someone who does and plan to get one for myself.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

 

[bannerd]

The idlers will fail before the belt. The end result is just as catastrophic.
If you have the two belts I described, then your water pump is turned by the timing belt. Same issue with that as the idlers. Change the water pump (unless you have the serpentine that turns the water pump) with the idlers, AND the tensioner when you change the timing belt. Changing the cam and crank shaft seals is a good idea too, but that requires removing the cam pulleys which is difficult.



My plastic piece broke because of the rust on the threaded rod.

I would have to say that the idlers and timing belt are dependent on how aggressive you drive your car. Most of the time we get turbo charge vehicles in where the stock timing belt has jumped a gear or literally shredded the teeth from the belt causing the engine to be destroyed. If you baby the car and take it easy.. I would hands down bet it last you a really good time.

There are certain options you can add that will rev the engine beyond its limits and those engines run really well. A tune and a dyno after to make sure the car is okay with its new hardware. With the belts stretching and dusting out inside the timing covers on a stock engine, I would change the belt every 90K or upgrade it. Again, it's how you drive it.. with a turbo it's impossible not to mash it

 

[shockwave]

Yeah I just got a 2004 sti from a buddy of mine for 3k but has blown head and needs aturb turbo


little trick when doing a timing belt is grab a chain wrench a cut the old belt to fit around pulley to safely loosen can gears without damage sinca lot of them ot are made out of plastic