Any suggestions for last minute things to do before drywall goes up?

[CarCrazyRDM]

I'm hoping to schedule drywall installation within the next couple of weeks. I've been racking my brain for things I want, need, should do before the sheetrock is hung and figured I'd throw a post on here to see what others who have gone through the same process might suggest or wished they had done, etc.

I thought I had done any and all electrical work prior to the insulation going up a couple of weeks ago but of course a couple "new" things came to mind that I worked on this weekend. Like installing some additional bracing, wire and electrical boxes for a few ceiling fans as well as moving some of the garage door wires.

Also since these photos were taken I've built a "wall" and a door under the stairs as to have both sheet rocked and then I'm going to sound-insulate the back side of both (and the stairs) to deaden my compressor noise. I also added a few pieces of necessary wood to allow the drywall guys to close in a little cubby at the edge of the stairwell landing under the back wall stairs. I plan to put a stereo in this cubby as well as maybe have a little charging station there for batteries, etc.

Below are a few reference pics to give you an idea of layout and what has been done. Something else that has also been done but is hard to see in these pics is I've run some air compressor hard lines and ports (one at the back door, one near the front door, and one on the ceiling... the input port for the compressor is under the stairs). You can see there are ample outlets and I have four or five 240V outlets as well for current and possible future use. You may see some blue tape squares on the floor in a couple pics, that is where the lift posts will be going (2 post).

One thing I'm probably going to do but haven't yet is maybe throw a few 2x4's or maybe even 2x8's in between the studs behind where my work bench is going to go and maybe above were my cabinet and sink are going as well. I figured this might make it easier for to find a solid place to hang things on after drywall is up.

So let me know if you have any general or specific suggestions. I appreciate any and all input.

Thanks in advance,
Ryan




I even 3D scanned it before insulation went in so I can have exact measurements for anything I might need or want to reference in the future. Nice perk of some work equipment.

 

[firworks]

You could put a cigar box in the wall with a dollar bill, a newspaper and maybe a nudie mag in it for someone to find in 50 years.

 

[Taiser]

That is a sweet shop. Something I missed when I did mine was to make sure I had lateral bracing, usually 2x6's in areas to give the walls some "meat" where I was going to install a air hose reel, heavy hooks, cabinets or anything else that could use some serious anchoring that can't or won't have attach points that fit perfectly in line with the studs!

 

[Richard Cranium]

Take pictures of the whole garage, so that later you will know how high the wires are and what is behind here, before I put a nail in there.

 

[matt_i]

It looks great there!

That door must be hurricane rated with all of the cross-ribs...

Just some random ideas...prep for gas or electric heating and/or A/C. Future exterior lights (corner floodlights, etc), exterior outlets for projects or battery minders on "outdoor equipment" or vehicles that park outisde, or parties (if near a deck or patio) Thought I saw an outlet for future garage door opener but I wasn't sure (whoops see jackshaft opener ). Reinforcement of mandoor frame for striker plates on deadbolt and/or normal lockset. Prewire for Enet and/or CATV. Could run some conduits with strings into the electrical panel in the vertical stud cavity for the electrical panel for future needs, up past the double top plate, thus eliminating the need to fish....or....you know make the fishing a 5 minute job instead of a 5 hour job.

Edit: I also plan to take a dremel tool and cut a little groove with a grinding disk into the concrete wall of my shop. This will be placed at the centerline of every vertical stud. Small "engraving" if you will, to make sure I don't have to look crosswise and half-guess at what the studfinder is telling me in the future. Simply use a level to strike a line upward or transfer this mark upward with a plumb bob.

 

[53Sparky]

prewire the low volt wires for your garage door opener button and sensor wires if you haven't already done it.

 

[CarCrazyRDM]

Take pictures of the whole garage, so that later you will know how high the wires are and what is behind here, before I put a nail in there.

Plenty of pictures taken and as shown above I also scanned the entire garage, which includes photos and millions of "survey" points. So on my computer I can measure from any reference point of my choosing (a stud, window frame, even most wires, etc) and measure exactly to anywhere I want.

It looks great there!

That door must be hurricane rated with all of the cross-ribs...

Just some random ideas...prep for gas or electric heating and/or A/C. Future exterior lights (corner floodlights, etc), exterior outlets for projects or battery minders on "outdoor equipment" or vehicles that park outisde, or parties (if near a deck or patio) Thought I saw an outlet for future garage door opener but I wasn't sure (whoops see jackshaft opener ). Reinforcement of mandoor frame for striker plates on deadbolt and/or normal lockset. Prewire for Enet and/or CATV. Could run some conduits with strings into the electrical panel in the vertical stud cavity for the electrical panel for future needs, up past the double top plate, thus eliminating the need to fish....or....you know make the fishing a 5 minute job instead of a 5 hour job.

Edit: I also plan to take a dremel tool and cut a little groove with a grinding disk into the concrete wall of my shop. This will be placed at the centerline of every vertical stud. Small "engraving" if you will, to make sure I don't have to look crosswise and half-guess at what the studfinder is telling me in the future. Simply use a level to strike a line upward or transfer this mark upward with a plumb bob.

A lot of great ideas there Matt. I think most have already been addressed though.

- I ran gas line already, even though I don't intend to use right away.
- I am covered for my current HVAC plans (window unit) and hopefully for any possible future setup as well.
- I've got two exterior outlets and I do also have an outlet in the ceiling for a possible future jackshaft opener on the back door.
- I also have two outside spigots, one of which is a dual head hot/cold unit.
- I thought about running CAT6 cable, then forgot when i was running conduit in the ground and decided it just wasn't worth going back and messing with.
- I have some conduit running from the panel up to the second floor so I can drop a line in the future if need be. Although I already ran an unused line to the second story as well.
- Something else already done that your comments reminded me of is that I ran speaker wire to the four corners of the garage. I plan to mount four small speakers in each corner and then maybe run a sub under the stairs. After cars music is probably my next biggest passion so I like to have quality tunes in the garage.

I like your idea of some how marking on my foundation wall where each stud is. I might consider doing this. Although having surveyed/scanned the whole garage I can pretty easily measure from some known visible reference after drywall is up to any stud.

Keep 'em coming guys.

 

[tarmy]

Nailers for cabinets, speaker wire in corners, power for winch on trolley, power for air filter on ceiling, mark 6 ' off floor and take pictures...that way you know where wires are, extra plugs over where workbench will be...54" high,plumbing for sink, run a couple extra 12-2 from panel to ceiling for unknowns, R 6 for TV on corner up high, some Cat 5 for whatever...like cameras, I have exterior and interior cameras for security, switches and power to upper outside areas for flood lites, exterior 30 A plug for the new chritmas welder...

Get that done this week and I will give you some more...you asked!

View attachment 601485

View attachment 601486

 

[MT Mike]

You should add more receptacle boxes in the ceiling (I only see two in the pictures).

Nice scanner,btw.

 

[tarmy]

View attachment 601487

Forgot to show you this...lift it with winch to get those big ladders up out of the way...one of my better ideas.

 

[PWC Repair]

Nail gaurds over the wire. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Halex-1-1-2-in-x-5-in-Nail-Plate-Bulk-100-Pack-62851B/202241088 Just cause you took measurements and have everything on file doesn't mean a "helper" will pay any attention to it. Cheap insurance. My wife found the 220v to our range in the back of our bedroom wall about a month ago while hanging a shelf. Luckily nothing serious happened other than some aggrevation and a patch to the wall after repairing the wire.

 

[atch]

I don't see any of those steel straps that you put on the studs where wires &/or pipes go through the stud. The straps that keep you from running nails/screws through said wires or pipes.

Many have already said but think about ANYWHERE you might want to hang a cabinet or sink or pegboard or whatever and install backing between the studs to attach to.

 

[atch]

Well; it looks like pwc and I were typing the same thing at the same time...

 

[Jackfre]

Don't Sheetrock the walls. Use plywood on the walls and s-rock on the ceiling. With plywood you can remove it to add/access the areas you need to do the things you inadvertently overlook. I found 10' Plywood to be pricey so I did 4x8x1/2" and cut 2' to fill the 10' of wall I have. I did a 1x4 trim strip to cover the seam. In only 1 1/2 yrs I've easily opened up areas for mods. You will want to change things and Sheetrock makes it tough. As well, I can hang things better, light things, going into plywood.

 

[Cue]

Cover your floors with something as they are going to be a mess after they do the mudding. I epoxied my floor last, after the drywallers were done, I had to scrape the entire floor to get all the dropped mud off it.

 

[tarmy]

View attachment 601490

Now you got me going...this is damn handy too, vac and air reels...

You need way more power in ceiling area...drop reels for power etc

View attachment 601493

If you look closely, there is storage over the roll up doors...used steel hangers from ceiling joists...I have sheets of ply and misc pipe stored up there..there is alot of room in yours for this solution...

Nice shop headed your way...looks good...

 

[Spelunca Sanctorum]

Since it'll be impossible to predict what new technology might come along in the future, what about adding some future proofing to make the installation easier in the future?

Could you add PVC piping as cable ductwork in case you ever need to add more wiring in the future? That always seemed like the least-worst option for future wiring jobs.

 

[xyster101]

Awesome shop. You will always have more to add later. I did oSB walls and can take a panel off if needed. One heavy coat of paint and it was done. Of course drywall looks nicer

Blocking for workbenches and cabinets are great.


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[matt_i]

Cover your floors with something as they are going to be a mess after they do the mudding. I epoxied my floor last, after the drywallers were done, I had to scrape the entire floor to get all the dropped mud off it.

I completely agree with this. I had drywallers in my basement doing an added bedroom a couple years back and they made a major mess, thankfully on the bare concrete over which carpet was to lay. I was using a 5ft prybar edge to scrape up some of the stuff. I think I'd get a roll of brown kraft paper and tape it liberally with masking tape.

 

[CarCrazyRDM]

Thanks for all the input fellas! I don't have time to address each comment individually but I'll just say many of things mentioned have either already been addressed or aren't of particular concern to me. However, a few things I do want to ask/mention:

tarmy - First, thanks for sharing... you've got some good stuff there. One thing you have that I'd like to add to my shop but just not sure I safely can is an I-beam/crane setup. I considered this from the very get-go but with my manufactured wooden I-beams they are just not designed to have a large amount of force/weight pulling on the bottom of them. The only way to properly do something like this would be to run a large board or metal beam on top of the I-beams (along/on the 2nd story floor) and then hang the metal I-beam from that through the floor along the ceiling on the first floor. That is probably worded poorly but none-the-less, I couldn't come up with a way to do this without it being unsafe or in the way on the 2nd floor. But I'm all ears if you or someone else has another suggestion.

I also hope to have some way of securing my ladders like yours. What kind of setup do you have there? I can't tell from the pic, are they just metal support bars or do they actually raise and lower? My ceiling are high enough that all by my 32' extension ladder will stand vertically, which is what I will likely do (just kind of hang them on the wall).

MT Mike, the recepticle box in the middle of the ceiling is a double gang box (4 outlets), then I have another in the ceiling by the small rear door and one (maybe two) in the ceiling by the larger door. I think I'll be good with those. I didn't see a reason to add any more because between where the garage doors "roll" up, and where my ceiling fans are going to be anything else would just be in the way.

I didn't do nail guards because nearly all my wires are run low enough that I don't see needing to attach anything down there. And the holes where the wires do pass through are all recessed to or past code (a depth of 1.25"... and then I'll have another 5/8" of drywall on top of that). I might go back and add a few in key places but I don't know that I'll do them all.

As for covering the floors when they come to do drywall... you better believe it! Honestly, I'm more concerned with what scaffolding they might bring in. The mud I can just rinse or pressure wash off. But if the scratch the hell out of the floor moving scaffolding around that's a little more difficult to fix. But I'm definitely going to ensure they either agree to cover everything or if they won't or want too much extra money to do it then I will. But I'm going to specifically ask that they either put thick blankets, cardboard, or some type of mats down underneath their scaffolding feet.

And using plywood/OSB instead of sheetrock just isn't an option for me... I want it to look "finished." Either would certainly make changes down the road easier but it's just a personal preference thing for me. Any cost or work associated with having to open up and fix drywall in the future would be worth it to me.

Thanks again guys,
Ryan

 

[Voi]

Didn't read through your entire post(s) and apologize for any redundancy.

1) Read up on air sealing electric boxes. Less messy now than when drywall is up.

2) Read up on "ADA" -- Airtight Drywall Approach.

I like the idea of blocking. Also consider some where French cleats might go.

 

[Hilltopmasonry]

+1 on marking the center of the studs on the foundation wall. The drywallers are not accurate with centering the screws in the 2x4s and if you follow their screws for mounting cabinets and such it will drive you nuts


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[glentre]

With regard to installing conduit from the panel up through the ceiling plate for future electric needs, for maximum flexibility in my new garage, I have specified a framed removable drywall section that will allow complete access to the entire bay above the panel in addition to an ample number of breaker slots to meet any future needs.

Glen

 

[Firebrick43]

Add a plastic sheeting and tape all seams to air seal. Also it looks like the is brick on the top inside edge of the stub wall? Definately mask it off, maybe add a sealer to them as the porous nature will ketch dirt for year to come. You could use sealer on the block as well

 

[KDXSR5]

Nothing really useful to add. Just wanted to say your shop is looking pretty good so far. Do you have a build thread?

 

[CarCrazyRDM]

Nothing really useful to add. Just wanted to say your shop is looking pretty good so far. Do you have a build thread?

Thanks and yes, build thread here:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=321568

I haven't updated it in a while, mainly because running a few more wires here and there is pretty boring to look at. Basically I need to add the pics from this post though to get it up to date.

 

[Ainsley]

I didn't see any mention of it in your original post or any replies but have you run any 20A or maybe higher 220V supplies anywhere? If you don't have a layout for larger machinery yet maybe just a few distributed throughout.
Air lines plumbed in the walls?

 

[CarCrazyRDM]

I didn't see any mention of it in your original post or any replies but have you run any 20A or maybe higher 220V supplies anywhere? If you don't have a layout for larger machinery yet maybe just a few distributed throughout.
Air lines plumbed in the walls?

Both have been mentioned but no big deal... I know I've written a lot, lol.

All of my outlets are 12ga/20A and I have four or five 240V outlets. One on the ceiling for lift, one under the stairs for a future 240 compressor, one on the side wall at the back for a possible welder, another up front for whatever one day, and another near the back-right window for a 240V window unit heat pump I have and may use.

Air lines are also already plumbed (see blue lines in pics).

 

[david71984]

Very nice!

 

[TX63CONV]

Take pictures of the whole garage, so that later you will know how high the wires are and what is behind here, before I put a nail in there.

This! I dont know how many times I have looked at pics of our house and garage prior to drywall for things like where wires are, etc.

 

[Angelfire]

Very cool that you are able to scan your walls before buttoning it up! I was introduced to the whole BIM approach to building while on an assignment in Ireland and was blown away by how well it worked.

Anyway, I know you've discounted CAT6 but if you have plans for a TV you might drop a line there given streaming is becoming much more mainstream. Also might consider a drop in the ceiling for a wifi access point. Are you thinking of ever putting in security cameras or an alarm? Those might be things to get tucked in as well. TStat wiring? Rate of Rise heat detector/fire alarm?

Anyway, looking good. I only wish I was nearly as close to done as you are! Mine is full of shite after our move back from Ireland so doing anything is very slow. Hoping to be insulating by the end of the year.
Cheers.

 

[tc-cad]

Wire for Speakers. Cost next to nothing but well worth it.

TC-CAD

 

[jeepxj]

I;'d put a 1' piece of plywood/nice wood/steel around the bottom edge. then you can take that off to run the stuff you forgot or want to expand easier in the future. plus it makes a nice chair rail like look.

 

[LX-Markham]

You guys make it seem like he's encasing the walls in concrete. It's just drywall. It can be cut and patched easily if plans or changes are made later.

BTW, great looking space. It's going to look amazing once drywalled and painted.

 

[JDMcG]

I put a layer of 1/2 plywood under my drywall in my mechanical room. This gave me the ability to put screws in hang stuff anywhere on the walls AND and finished look.


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[tarmy]

Thanks for all the input fellas! I don't have time to address each comment individually but I'll just say many of things mentioned have either already been addressed or aren't of particular concern to me. However, a few things I do want to ask/mention:

tarmy - First, thanks for sharing... you've got some good stuff there. One thing you have that I'd like to add to my shop but just not sure I safely can is an I-beam/crane setup. I considered this from the very get-go but with my manufactured wooden I-beams they are just not designed to have a large amount of force/weight pulling on the bottom of them. The only way to properly do something like this would be to run a large board or metal beam on top of the I-beams (along/on the 2nd story floor) and then hang the metal I-beam from that through the floor along the ceiling on the first floor. That is probably worded poorly but none-the-less, I couldn't come up with a way to do this without it being unsafe or in the way on the 2nd floor. But I'm all ears if you or someone else has another suggestion.

I also hope to have some way of securing my ladders like yours. What kind of setup do you have there? I can't tell from the pic, are they just metal support bars or do they actually raise and lower? My ceiling are high enough that all by my 32' extension ladder will stand vertically, which is what I will likely do (just kind of hang them on the wall).

MT Mike, the recepticle box in the middle of the ceiling is a double gang box (4 outlets), then I have another in the ceiling by the small rear door and one (maybe two) in the ceiling by the larger door. I think I'll be good with those. I didn't see a reason to add any more because between where the garage doors "roll" up, and where my ceiling fans are going to be anything else would just be in the way.

I didn't do nail guards because nearly all my wires are run low enough that I don't see needing to attach anything down there. And the holes where the wires do pass through are all recessed to or past code (a depth of 1.25"... and then I'll have another 1/2" of drywall on top of that). I might go back and add a few in key places but I don't know that I'll do them all.

As for covering the floors when they come to do drywall... you better believe it! Honestly, I'm more concerned with what scaffolding they might bring in. The mud I can just rinse or pressure wash off. But if the scratch the hell out of the floor moving scaffolding around that's a little more difficult to fix. But I'm definitely going to ensure they either agree to cover everything or if they won't or want too much extra money to do it then I will. But I'm going to specifically ask that they either put thick blankets, cardboard, or some type of mats down underneath their scaffolding feet.

And using plywood/OSB instead of sheetrock just isn't an option for me... I want it to look "finished." Either would certainly make changes down the road easier but it's just a personal preference thing for me. Any cost or work associated with having to open up and fix drywall in the future would be worth it to me.

Thanks again guys,
Ryan

Talk to your engineer...but what I did is weld a vertical flange to attach to each joist...and bolted through the top cord...or near it so the load is fully supported by every point possible. I also made a T every fourth joist with 3/8" thick steel plate to lay on top of a pair of joists...this spreads the load even more.

I use mine all the time...put in the hangers or beam now...4x4" I beam 20' long. You will love having it for alot of uses you are not even thinking of right now.

The ladders are lifted with a cheap 110v electric winch on the wall. I ran the cable in the voids to pulleys and ****** blocks. Made a craddle to stack the ladders, two carribeners to clip it in and up it goes...

View attachment 601759

 

[tarmy]

View attachment 601760

More info...

 

[CarCrazyRDM]

BTW, great looking space. It's going to look amazing once drywalled and painted.

Thanks and I hope so! Very excited to get to that point... and with all my lights!!! Hoping such will be an X-mas present to myself. I know my wife will be happy for me to stop spending money on it, lol. Although even she knows once drywall and paint are up there will still be plenty of things to purchase... cabinets, shelves, new larger tool chest, and eventually a lift. One thing at a time though. We've got a new little one on the way which will definitely put a damper on the budget (daycare is expensive!).