Any way to fix this?

[mcspeed]

Plain and simple, tell the builder that is is not acceptable and that he needs to correct it. Politely and professionally of course.

I had my builder re do my three largest windows 4 times until he got it right……that’s what I hired him to do. I know it is frustrating f but don’t let that happen. He can and will fix it.

 

[rslaback]

Not trying to piss in your Cheerios but I think I need to see the pictures you gave them in order to fully analyze this saga, especially since...

I tried previously to find some kind of plans or a diagram so I could do it myself, I am new to construction.

 

[Jbmotorsports]

Sorry for not updating this but I had to disconnect for a couple days. I attempted some repairs. Jacked up the beam, plated the cut, ran other set of 2x4 across the front and made 4x4 posts. So much better, but not acceptable to me I knew the only thing to do was tear it down. So yesterday I did that and I'm glad I did. Once I got some of the sheeting off I found the ledger board was already starting to pull off the wall and every day I left my repair up it sagged more.

Rslablack, I understand and let me explain. I left them a picture, I can dig it up, that showed an awning exactly as I described. I watched them start building on my outdoor cam and once I saw they were not doing it like I wanted I had my wife, who works from home, go out and talk to them. He told her they were just going to make the rafter look for "decoration". I said that's not how I wanted it, they finished it anyhow. I said, ok well whatever it's built, it looks ok. It's not WHAT was built HOW it was built.

The overall issue I've explained before is my contractor is giving me a pretty good deal, and even when I expressed willingness to pay more I really just don't think his guys are capable of doing the work I want. That's fine, I can figure this out. I am actually enjoying learning and doing it myself. I would rather him say no they can't do that rather than the response I've been getting which is essentially, "it's fine it's just a garage" type of responses. This situation with him is what it is and I can't change it no matter how hard I've tried. I'm done trying, it's too stressful and I really want this to be finished before winter.

So I ripped it down and put up a 2x6 ledger. I will use two 2x6 as the beam and 2x6 vertical for rafters. The only thing I'm sort of struggling with is how to properly support that main beam on top of the posts. That's hard to explain so here's a crude picture to explain. I suppose adding another board between the post and the beam might work or maybe some sort of tie bracket. I was going to use a 4x4 as the beam but the span is 12'6" and I can't find one that long locally. Some constructive criticism would be appreciated. Also added picture of what I left for them

 

[Jbmotorsports]

Ok ditched my original idea and looked at as many examples of this as possible and here's what I came up with. Found a 4x4x16 finally. This seems adequate based on no information but a gut feeling. The 3 supports will look like this and then fascia trim it or move it back like the second picture and then have no fascia board and make the tips all fancy. Technically I don't need fascia on any of it really.

 

[firebirdparts]

Good enough. Attachment is important, but this is not carrying anything. The way you have that arranged, you can't get a nail into it. But really it doesn't matter.

 

[PCustoms]

Ok ditched my original idea and looked at as many examples of this as possible and here's what I came up with. Found a 4x4x16 finally. This seems adequate based on no information but a gut feeling. The 3 supports will look like this and then fascia trim it or move it back like the second picture and then have no fascia board and make the tips all fancy. Technically I don't need fascia on any of it really.

I'm still not clear what you're looking for, as each pic is fairly different framing, but ditch the 4x4.

Use doubled up 2x8 to give it the stiffness.

 

[PCustoms]

Also a 4x4x16 PT is going to look like a wet noodle in a carnival mirror by next year.

 

[Jbmotorsports]

Ok. Thanks for the input. This better? Actually is less work as I wouldn't need to notch then at all. Just kind of thought it looked cooler the other way as I can't seem to find a good way to mount a single 2x6 slightly inboard

 

[PCustoms]

You can birdmouth the rafter to go over the 2x, then tuck your supports up inside to catch both the rafter and the beam.

But yes, IMHO, better.

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

Ever seen what happens to an 8' 4X4? checking, splitting, bowing, etc.? Multiple that by 10 for a 16' long 4X4! They are not made for horizontal span support.
Go back and look at the pic I posted previously. It's a good true example of "timber framing". Members are notched, keyed, and/or pinned. All that interlocking helps with support. Plus, you'll notice that the decking is T&G run perpendicular to the exposed rafters that are notched to the double beam span support, which in turn is notched to the top of the bracket.

 

[billconner]

My rule of thumb for wood - based on grad school structure classes - is an inch of depth for each foot of span for a beam. At least get better than big box no. 2s - maybe look for a no. 1 douglas fir if you don't want to go to a 2x8.

 

[Jbmotorsports]

Ok. How about this setup. It seems like it should be fine as far as weight as the roof is only 33 inches long. The only thing is the span, which is 12 foot. If that's not adequate for the span, would doubled up 2x6 be good? The roof just doesn't have the physical size for a 2x8 or larger. It would have proportions like a bobble head

 

[CraigStu]

There are others contributing here who know more than I do about the structure so I just want to make a small contribution to get closer to the style of your sample picture. I would alter your design like this to make the ends of the2x4s(?) stand out a little more.
small roof by craig stuard, on Flickr
Also I don't think you have mentioned exactly what type of roofing you are planning to use but remember that you need a good drip edge so the edge of the osb is protected. Also the ends of those 2x4s need a really, really good protectant because the end of a cut 2x4 like that will soak up water like crazy.

 

[billconner]

I don't know if there will be a detectable sag in 10 years or not. Go for it.

For appearance, consider t&g v grooved - old fashioned "roofers" - or maybe find a mill and use rough sawn. Just seems better appearing than plywood or osb. Rough sawn around me is 0.45 to 0.50 a bd ft. I don't think you can get ply or osb $16 a sheet.

 

[Jbmotorsports]

Thanks guys, funny you drew that as I came up with a slightly easier solution possibly. First, I am putting a metal roof on. One that I ordered when it seemed as though the previous solution was viable so I suppose I should have stated that because I'm working around that. The length and angles are already set and that's why I am sticking to this size as that was not cheap just for materials.

I have no problem using tongue and groove over regular sheeting. At this point whatever is suggested I am at the very least considering the idea.

If it's not as obvious as a punch to the mouth, I'm learning, so every bit of input is taken and compared to what I've currently learned, analyzed and digested and applied. I wish I could express via text how appreciative I am of you guys right now. Not only am I mentally exhausted i am physically beat. I have back issues and this has got it screaming right now. Plus it's like 300 percent humidity out

 

[billconner]

I didn't realize it was metal. Underside should look fine on 1x3s or 4s.

 

[Jbmotorsports]

How does the surface material affect that decision? Genuine question. I like what you suggested which is similar to what kledge posted a picture of, that way I could leave the underside alone.

 

[billconner]

I see most metal roofing on furring strips attached across the rafters/trusses, not on solid sheathing.

 

[i4ni]

An overhang would have made more sense and looked better ta boot.


Oops. I just seen I'm a couple of months late to the Party.lol

 

[Daniel Dudley]

I have a feeling that we need to hear the other side of the story.
That picture is useless for judgment other than seeing the dip.

I saw the dip, but I'm guessing that there was another dip there when it was built.

 

[Daniel Dudley]

I see most metal roofing on furring strips attached across the rafters/trusses, not on solid sheathing.

That is the minimum that will support metal roofing, not a requirement.

 

[billconner]

That is the minimum that will support metal roofing, not a requirement.

Of course. I just think it's better appearing than OSB.