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Anybody ever put down silkaflex self leveling in control joints

Ran58

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Joined
Jul 19, 2019
Messages
162
Location
Georgia
The control joints range from between 1/4 to 1/2” wide. I understand I need to install foam backer rod to the joints so that the depth of the joint will be about 3/8 to 1/2“ deep. Do I need to tape each side of the joint in order to get a crisp line or can you get a decent looking line without having to do this? Any other tips you may have are appreciated.

thanks
 
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BigSalNY

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Sep 27, 2023
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29
If you’re replacing black expansion joint material, just push the foam backer rod deep enough. The sikaflex will self level. So as long as you stay below the top of the edges you’ll be fine. Best way is to eye ball the whole joint and fill the low spot in a little bit. Then start at the high point and work your way to the end. You may need to add alittle bit at the end so plan for that.
 

Rusted Nut

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Dec 11, 2022
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Northern Arizona
What other have said work fine, but if you have a slab with a hard trowel finish with soft cut control joints, you can also tape edges and over fill the cut; then cut excess off with a razor scraper. Leaves a nice level finish.
 
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Ran58

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Jul 19, 2019
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162
Location
Georgia
What does soft cut control joints mean? They finished the joint with one of those motorized troweling machines.

And they cut the joints with one of those gas powered cutters with a blade.

I can’t type today. They finished the slab with one of those motorized trowels
 

4x4Pete

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Aug 26, 2019
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791
Location
Stroud
I used Sikaflex and backer rod, overfilled the joints, and used a razor to trim them flush with the floor. I had to re apply after a couple of years or so as the concrete continued to shrink a bit and caused stretch cracks along the joint between the Sikaflex and the concrete. It's a really easy job and looks great.
 
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Ran58

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Jul 19, 2019
Messages
162
Location
Georgia
What other have said work fine, but if you have a slab with a hard trowel finish with soft cut control joints, you can also tape edges and over fill the cut; then cut excess off with a razor scraper. Leaves a nice level finish.
I hate to be such a dummy but what is a razor scraper.
 
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jollygreengiant

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Nov 10, 2013
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2,366
Location
Ontario, Canada
I used backer rod and sikaflex on my floor and it was a complete waste of time. It started cracking a few months after application and it's now over 50% cracked and looks awful.
 

e015475

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Joined
Jul 24, 2012
Messages
644
Location
Show Low and Mesa Arizona
I filled the troweled control joints on the floor under my four-post lift about a year ago and it is holding up fine.

I typically am rolling around in a chair underneath the lift, and I got tired of the wheels catching on the joints and fluids filling up the grooves so filled them with Sikaflex. I was hesitant to use backer rod when I was running wheels over it all the time, so I made it solid.

I masked both sides, filled the joint with Sikaflex and used a putty knife to level it. I cleaned everything with acetone before filling and scuffed the epoxy with a scotchbrite to give it some key. I didn't razor cut the top off the Sikaflex and found the self-leveling finish satisfactory. I took the masking tape off as soon as I'd leveled it so it didn't have a hard edge.

The house I used to own had control joints in the driveway with square edges filled with some sort of black material that the termites ate. After the termites had their fill, I pulled what was left out and filled it with Sikaflex using a backer rod. I taped the edges and troweled it with the back side of a spoon to make a shallow depression. FWIW Sikaflex will last about ten years in the Arizona sun before it starts to crack
 

Kaizen

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Jan 9, 2015
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6,948
Location
New England
i cut my own control joints with a ciruclar saw and diamond blade i got at hd for like 30 bucks. I used 2inch tape and did not use backer as mine were only a saw cut width. it was hot when i did it so after ten min it flowed down and i reapplied if needed. pull the tape before it dries. this stuff is very very tough to clean or cut so aim for level. i epoxied right over it and i can see the cracks where they should be but just a hairline. definitly use tape. just scraping this off in a few places i dropped was a pain
 

TexMedium

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Joined
Mar 3, 2013
Messages
169
Location
Kutztown,pa
Decades ago, doing commercial swimming poll rehabs, the designs always called for the pool deck expansion joints to be caulked. The expansion joint material was ripped an inch, then pinned back together with finish nails. After the concrete was poured, we'd peel off the rip, pack the joint with foam backer rod, and caulk away. The design ALWAYS called for the use of the caulking "system's" primer, and self-leveling caulk. Sikaflex was a popular brand with the project engineers. Usually two-part mixed in it's bucket.

Of course, pool decks are always pitched so water runs away. Well so did the self-leveling caulk. Eventually, we began using "vertical grade", "non-sag" caulk material. Paint the primer, stuff the foam rope, masking tape the joint, and putty knife in the caulk. It worked, albeit tediously. Eventually the supervising engineers wanted the joint "tooled" to be more concave. Some Dollar Store kitchen spoons were the perfect shape and size. I must have put down hundreds of gallons of that stuff. I have not been back to any of those places in years, so i couldn't speak to it's durability, but it sure did look pretty when it was new.
 
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