Anybody here have truss design software?

[PWC Repair]

I need to finalize design of the "trusses" for my sons house and just thought maybe somebody on here has some basic software. Attached are points and dimensions.

 

[PWC Repair]

I was just thinking.......maybe the member from 3-0 needs to go 3-8 instead?

 

[Beamer]

Look at some truss drawings for typical geometries.
Your diagram doesn't look like a truss.

 

[Hank11]

With that member from 3 to 5 included this is called a jack truss. Or is that not the truss you want designed? Do you want only the top part - defined by 1, 2,3?

I'd surely let a truss manufacturer do the design and build. I doubt that you would save anything by trying to build these yourself.

 

[mike93lx]

That is a really complex design. I doubt anyone with the experience to engineer that is going to offer it for free and anyone that doesn't know how to properly engineer it shouldn't be doing it.

 

[PCustoms]

I need to finalize design of the "trusses" for my sons house and just thought maybe somebody on here has some basic software. Attached are points and dimensions.

Why are you building your own truss?

Either go to a lumberyard/truss company and let them design/build or frame it as rafters

 

[Zen]

Seems over complicated to me, just dimension the span, wall to wall dimension, pitches required. The long leg on the left would be a rafter framed by you. Most truss companies should give you a quote & a drawing, we would.

 

[Firebrick43]

All the lengths there look to be well within the confines of what a rafter and ceiling joist can accomplish, and you have the walls to set them on.

The points between 3 and 5 is 21.2’ and the longest span if you want to clear span it. And that can be done with #1 2x12 syp on 16” centers

If you set it on the wall that rafter on the wall at point 9 then the 3 to 2 span is the longest (11’6”~)and can be done with #1 syp 2x6 on 16” centers. Points 3 to 4 is 13’4”~

So a 2x6 from 3 to 4 at my local Menards is $12.12 and a 22’ 2x6 for 3 to 5 is $25.52 as long as it’s framed to the that wall. It looks like the ceiling joist depending on how you frame it would be a 16’ 2x6 at $13.82

That is 51.46 for every 16” of length.

 

[jar944]

As noted above, why trusses and not a conventional cut roof?

 

[duneslider]

Don't try to make your own trusses, you won't be able to do it as cheap or as well as a truss manufacturer. Either just have them make them for you, or do it conventional stick framing. Either way, get a quote from a truss company and compare it to what you can stick frame it yourself. Trusses are very affordable nowadays.

 

[firebirdparts]

That's not a truss, it's a frame. don't listen to anybody that says that's a kind of truss.

The part on the right, of course, you can fiddle with that and improve it. The long long rafter, that's just going to have to be brute force wood strength over there. If you do that all in one piece, it looks to me like it'll be 18 feet and about 3 inches long based on the dots from 3 to 5. (the angles on the end would require a little longer item.)

I think a 2x6 would realistically handle that. You might want more room for insulation than a 2x6 provides, though.

 

[firebirdparts]

So looking at the right side, I think if you do 2x6's for the main components, and a 2x4 from 3 to 9, it's basically adequate. The upstairs wall becomes load bearing and the 7-8 is just a nice to have. If you convert the right part of into enough triangles then you could reduce it down to 2x4's.

 

[Firebrick43]

If you convert the right part of into enough triangles then you could reduce it down to 2x4's.

Then it’s a truss and most AHJ require then an engineers stamp

 

[ratflinger]

When we built our house we just took the basic blueprints to the truss company and they designed the trusses for us.

 

[PWC Repair]

With that member from 3 to 5 included this is called a jack truss. Or is that not the truss you want designed? Do you want only the top part - defined by 1, 2,3?

I'd surely let a truss manufacturer do the design and build. I doubt that you would save anything by trying to build these yourself.

Yes, 3-5 is part of it BUT, doesn't need to be......

Why are you building your own truss?

Either go to a lumberyard/truss company and let them design/build or frame it as rafters

Doing EVERYTHING ourselves cause my son is on less than a shoestring budget.

All the lengths there look to be well within the confines of what a rafter and ceiling joist can accomplish, and you have the walls to set them on.

The points between 3 and 5 is 21.2’ and the longest span if you want to clear span it. And that can be done with #1 2x12 syp on 16” centers

If you set it on the wall that rafter on the wall at point 9 then the 3 to 2 span is the longest (11’6”~)and can be done with #1 syp 2x6 on 16” centers. Points 3 to 4 is 13’4”~

So a 2x6 from 3 to 4 at my local Menards is $12.12 and a 22’ 2x6 for 3 to 5 is $25.52 as long as it’s framed to the that wall. It looks like the ceiling joist depending on how you frame it would be a 16’ 2x6 at $13.82

That is 51.46 for every 16” of length.

3-5 is 18'3", other dimensions look good. Thanks

As noted above, why trusses and not a conventional cut roof?

Well, I put "truss" in quotes cause that might not be the right term. I don't claim to know anything about framing.

Don't try to make your own trusses, you won't be able to do it as cheap or as well as a truss manufacturer. Either just have them make them for you, or do it conventional stick framing. Either way, get a quote from a truss company and compare it to what you can stick frame it yourself. Trusses are very affordable nowadays.

Thanks, will reach out to the local truss outfit.

 

[PWC Repair]

That's not a truss, it's a frame. don't listen to anybody that says that's a kind of truss.

The part on the right, of course, you can fiddle with that and improve it. The long long rafter, that's just going to have to be brute force wood strength over there. If you do that all in one piece, it looks to me like it'll be 18 feet and about 3 inches long based on the dots from 3 to 5. (the angles on the end would require a little longer item.)

I think a 2x6 would realistically handle that. You might want more room for insulation than a 2x6 provides, though.

Sounds like what I was thinking by looking at 2x span tables.

So looking at the right side, I think if you do 2x6's for the main components, and a 2x4 from 3 to 9, it's basically adequate. The upstairs wall becomes load bearing and the 7-8 is just a nice to have. If you convert the right part of into enough triangles then you could reduce it down to 2x4's.

Thank you. This is more along the lines of what my research led me to believe.

 

[Beamer]

The part that people who think they can make trusses miss is in the connections.

You need to know the member design reactions, figure out the nail allowable loads for the particular wood species, maintain the required layout and spacings and so on. It often seems to end up that the nail requirements are a hugh burden in the layout of the joints and not at all easy to conform to.
Trusses are nothing with proper connection design and construction.

Frankly if I was in the position of needing trusses I'd go to work to get the money for the trusses and save on the cost of therapy related to making them. Sometimes what seems to be a money saver ends up a big loss due to wrong decisions.

 

[Bert_]

You really need something from 3-8, otherwise 7-8 isn't doing anything helpful. There is nothing to carry the load to the center wall. Really needs to go back to the drawing board.

How did you come up with this shape?

I understand the desire to build your own. I just built 7 simple trusses for a 24' wide building. Each one cost $38 in material so I paid myself very well for the time to build.

 

[PCustoms]

I'd really like to see the materials cost for these "trusses" vs. buying pre-made/engineered

 

[firebirdparts]

The part that people who think they can make trusses miss is in the connections.

This is not going to be truss in any way, shape, or form, so I think we're good on internal connections. That's easy here. The danger here is connections to the lower wall, which is really hard to do well, dang hard.

As far as having them pre-made, I am not assuming anybody would do it.

 

[jar944]

The danger here is connections to the lower wall, which is really hard to do well, dang hard.

I would think if 3 becomes a ridge beam, they should just sit on the seat cut. It's already going to need to be a 2x10 or 2x12 for the insulation requirements of that vaulted section anyway.

 

[PWC Repair]

The part that people who think they can make trusses miss is in the connections.

You need to know the member design reactions, figure out the nail allowable loads for the particular wood species, maintain the required layout and spacings and so on. It often seems to end up that the nail requirements are a hugh burden in the layout of the joints and not at all easy to conform to.
Trusses are nothing with proper connection design and construction.

Frankly if I was in the position of needing trusses I'd go to work to get the money for the trusses and save on the cost of therapy related to making them. Sometimes what seems to be a money saver ends up a big loss due to wrong decisions.

I could see problems with nailing the connections, BUT maybe these are small enough to just be rafters? Saving money and DIY is what I'm ALL about.

You really need something from 3-8, otherwise 7-8 isn't doing anything helpful. There is nothing to carry the load to the center wall. Really needs to go back to the drawing board.

How did you come up with this shape?

I understand the desire to build your own. I just built 7 simple trusses for a 24' wide building. Each one cost $38 in material so I paid myself very well for the time to build.

Yes, at post #2 I was thinking maybe a 3-8 connection. The house dictates the shape. See attachments.

This is not going to be truss in any way, shape, or form, so I think we're good on internal connections. That's easy here. The danger here is connections to the lower wall, which is really hard to do well, dang hard.

As far as having them pre-made, I am not assuming anybody would do it.

I've attached a sorry looking sketch. I was thinking I'd work in collar ties to the upper bedroom wall or maybe down to the LVL in the vaulted area, both of which will get finished to a natural wood look.

I would think if 3 becomes a ridge beam, they should just sit on the seat cut. It's already going to need to be a 2x10 or 2x12 for the insulation requirements of that vaulted section anyway.

So then we'd just have some plane jane rafters right?

40% of the front wall is easily supported, tied in to a bedroom upstairs. The other 60% is vaulted.

 

[PWC Repair]

I made a new drawing. I thought it might be helpful to better see what's going on.

 

[PCustoms]

I made a new drawing. I thought it might be helpful to better see what's going on.

Get rid of all the rundown "webs".

Design this with i joist rafters and a ridge beam.

 

[PWC Repair]

I-joist rafters........spanning 12 whole feet? I mean, I know this is garage journal forum and complete overkill is the norm but a common 2x6 rafter can span that no problem.

 

[PCustoms]

I-joist rafters........spanning 12 whole feet? I mean, I know this is garage journal forum and complete overkill is the norm but a common 2x6 rafter can span that no problem.

Then why the seat of the pants truss design?

I suggested the i joist because the chord length looks quite long in your un-dimensioned sketch

KISS

 

[PWC Repair]

Then why the seat of the pants truss design?

I suggested the i joist because the chord length looks quite long in your un-dimensioned sketch

KISS

The longest member (the long steep pitch) is right at 18'3" but the effective span is only 12ft.

 

[mikegt4]

Then it’s a truss and most AHJ require then an engineers stamp

^^^This ^^^
Just about any AHJ will require trusses to be designed, or at least approved, by a professional engineer and have his/her stamp put on the plans. Once you determine what you require as far as pitch, span, type of truss (storage, plain etc.), interior height etc there is no need to go any farther yourself, a truss company will do the rest.

 

[reader2580]

Menards has a truss design website. https://midwest.menards.com/TrussOnline/#/landing/Truss They can give you a price quote on your custom truss. This will tell you if the truss design is even possible to engineer. The best way to get a quote from them is to upload your blueprint.