Anybody know SMAW?

[kartracer55]

I tried out stick for the first time yesterday, and did a bit of practicing today. My third rod burned was a continuous bead that I was able to run all the way until the last 2 inches or so of shielded rod, So I can at least keep the bead going without loosign the arc or sticking it every other second. Not bad I guess.

Do any of you guys have any handy tips? Im starting a welding class in may, but Ive got the bug and Id like to become half-*** proficient at this in the near future.

Im on 3/8 plate, 80 amps, dial set to "5" on this HUGE industrial westing house machine. Im guessing its a pretty standard rod Im using, I honestly have no idea. I just unwrapped a bundle of rods and thats what I have been using, no markings on them.

I was given a few pointers by a pro iron worker, and I compared my beads to one he ran wit hthe same settings/rod and mine (obviously) *****. It seems like the bead is too high on the metal but even if I go just a little bit faster the bead looks spaced out and gets even more uneven. Like I said, Im starting a class in may, but any pointers would be great.

Thanks

Jim

 

[YJTypeR]

Your weld beads will look much different using different rods. It also depends on whether or not you are welding with AC or DC voltage. 7014 rod will produce a really good looking weld and is easiest to work with in my opinion. Get some more of that info and it'll be easier to point you in the right direction.

 

[Brian]

Well I'm not an expert at stick but I've done a little bit. From what I know it's all about watching the puddle of molten metal that forms at the end of the rod.
Try to keep a nice even consistent puddle shape and you will get a nice even consistent weld. If you are going too fast you won't really see a puddle form and penetration will be poor and the weld will look bad. Go for an oblong or tear drop shape.

 

[EdNJ]

I was given a few pointers by a pro iron worker, and I compared my beads to one he ran wit hthe same settings/rod and mine (obviously) *****. It seems like the bead is too high on the metal but even if I go just a little bit faster the bead looks spaced out and gets even more uneven.

You're probably moving too fast,slow down.

Welding courses are great,I'm still mad at myself for missing the deadline for the spring 2006 class

 

[kartracer55]

where did you look at going?

Im gunna try slowing down and adjusting the arc length a bit, somebody elsewhere said it might be too high.

Thanks


Jim

 

[trainer]

Here's some reading that i recommend:


http://www.hobartwelders.com/techtips.html
http://www.millerwelds.com/pdf/guidelines_smaw.pdf

 

[kartracer55]

Thanks Trainer!

 

[EdNJ]

where did you look at going?

Im gunna try slowing down and adjusting the arc length a bit, somebody elsewhere said it might be too high.

Went to SCTI (Somerset County Technical Institue),took a fall '04-spring '05 basic welding course. My instructor said I could apply for the same course again (next course has a different instructor)...while the new students are learning torch,ARC,and MIG I can hog one of the TIG machines

Yeah your arc length may also need to be lessened,basically get the rod as close to possible.

 

[sberry]

Which ones you want? Jim, dont worry, a little fooling around before you go to class is alright, just enough the sparks dont scare you,, ha. I taught a little welding the other night and I had to let him show me "how he does it" first, I wish I had a couple pics of the difference in one rods instruction, night and day. About 99% of the practice and learnin you do yourself is useless and a compentant instructor will teach you more in 5 mins than you will get in 5 months of practicing bad habits. Very few people would become proffecient without some kind of instruction, dont always mean a lot of school but some lessons somewhere. I can spot a guy that "learned on his own" a long way off. This is one of those things that a lot of people know a lot less than they think they do to and its an irreplaceable skill. Very useful in the job market.

 

[tubeman]

Nice beads! If those are stick welds you must have cleaned the slag off them cuz they're way too purdy!

 

[Uncle Buck]

Damn fine weld quality there sberry, I cannot weld that good, never have, prolly never will! You only get that good with lots of practice! I sure can tell good weld quality when I see it though!

 

[W-Cummins]

Looks like he might have mixed in a few mig welds there #4 and esp. the second to the last one sure look like mig ( Si slag, dingle cherries, brown residue etc.... How about it all of them stick??

William....

 

[kartracer55]

Well guys I appreciate the encouragement. I know my own helmet will be an auto-darkening helmet because I cant see for **** with the oldschool ones I normally use. Its a bit more work than Id like trying to get everything lined up, but once I get goin its no problem.

Sberry, those are awesome welds!!!

Jim

 

[trainer]

a compentant instructor will teach you more in 5 mins than you will get in 5 months of practicing bad habits. .

And if you can take a class, go for it!
learning proper technique is a big part of welding, and if you can learn some theory, your welds will be stronger and you will understand your limits and capabilities.

I remember watching a friend's dad weld up a set of boat racks before a fishing trip. He was taught by a few oldtimers when he was a refrigeration apprentice.
He would have a water hose running, and immediately douse each weld. His welds looked beautiful.
Guess what broke on that fishing trip.

 

[sberry]

Yes, there were a couple migs, those were just file pics I had. One was a tig on a coupling. I dont do a lot of tig work, its passable for the type of thing we do but there are guys a lot better. I dont have the interest, patience or hand eye coordination to get really good at it. This is something worth taking the time to learn to do right, its obvious as daylight when a guy knows.

 

[red caddy]

5 things ya gotta know to stick weld: CLAMS
C, Current, correct amperage and polarity for the electrode type and size, base metal type and thickness.( read 'em off a chart until you get a feel for what works best for you)
L, Length of arc. Weldement deposition and penatration are controled by the length of arc. ( the distance from the melting end of the electrode to the base metal. (sound is a good indicator... think fryin' bacon)
A, Angle of electrode. For the flat position, the stinger should lead the puddle by an angle of 5 to 15 deg. in the direction of travel. this varies by position and location)
M, Manipulation. How you move the melting end of the electrode determines the width and weight of the bead, remember, you are moving in 3 plane's at the same time... left to right, the direction of travel. Up and down... length of arc, remember the rod is melting and getting shorter as you go. Side to side, S'es J hooks or side to side weave to keep the puddle the shape you want, and the weldement (bead) height with in spec's. (you really can hold fire in your hand and push the molten metal anyplace you want to)
S, Speed. the speed of travel (horizontal in a flat position) affects the puddle shape and size, as well as the amount of penatration of the base metal by the arc.
That's the basics, now go burn some rod. 10 min. spent watching a good weldor work will teach you more than 10 hours by yourself, stickin' scratchin' and swearin'... RED