anybody regret doing a pole building?

[madmaxnj]

And wish they did a traditional build? It seems like most people are happy with their pole buildings, just curious if anybody regretted it and wished they did a regular building. I'm in the planning stages of a 24x32x12 detached garage and I am currently considering a Shirk pole building, or a semi-pre-fab traditional building. It looks like the price difference is in ballpark of 8K, and that's mostly in the foundation work. I'm trying to compare apples to apple, so both have the same footprint, garage door, window, man door, trusses, etc, layout. Other than the foundation, the pole building has metal exterior on the walls. Pre-fab is 2x4 walls with Smartsiding painted to match my house and shed. Both have trusses 24" OC, starting as attic trusses by the garage doors, then scissor trusses for the remainder, OSB sheathing, paper, shingles, 1' overhang all around, full length ridge vent, soffit vents, insulation baffles, and R30 insulated metal ceiling. The only interior work by both crews would be the insulated ceiling.

For the Shirk pole building I'll have a local guy come over and do the site prep and then come back and do the floor. In between I'll trench for electrical, run the conduit up through the floor and put a subpanel in the garage. I see a lot of guys build up a layer of studs to insulate and put up interior walls. I was thinking of toenailing in studs horizontally 24" OC going up between the poles, then insulating and hanging OSB. This would be done after electrical runs, lighting, switches, etc.

For the prefab the builder will have his guy do the prep, footers, foundation and floor. The foundation will extend 2' above the floor. Then they come and erect the prefab pieces (10' walls, so total 12' height) and finish it off. I'd do the electrical afterwards, and poke a hole through the wall. Insulation and hanging the OSB and anything else is very straightforward with the convention 2x4 16" OC walls. I think this build would look better and be easier to work with over time, but is it worth $8K for that difference?

TIA

 

[Hot Rod Grampa]

I have regrets. Original plan just storage. Next thing I am adding floor. Then studding out walls so it could be insulated. Then finishing walls and ceiling. Basically building a building inside a building. Next time it will be insulated concrete forms on ground beams or footers and stick built from there. Build it once and done. Posts have been in the ground thirty years. Will never last as long as concrete.

 

[ard]

IMO the long term value in a stick built will be more than 8k

 

[Pechinger]

I just built a 28x32 summer of 2017. I don't regret it. I chose a pole barn because i couldn't afford the structure and concrete in one year. Pole barn allowed me to skip the concrete for now. I used 6x6 on 8ft centers with 2x6 girts horizontally to allow for insulation and interior sheathing later (again as the funds allow).

I did everything myself except for the trusses. I had a couple friends help left them in place.

 

[astroracer]

Like has been alluded too. Upfront cost. A pole building is far cheaper to put up initially. Allowing you to finish it as you have time and money.
Either way, you still pay for the materials, it just depends on if you can afford it all at once or piecemeal.
The other option to think about is, do you need to finish off the whole thing or will a small portion (26 x 30 in my case) do the job.
My initial 30 x 48 was built in '85. I had the floor poured when it was built and finished it out as I had time. I studded and insulated that 26 x 30 section and left it at that. I didn't have to stud out the rest of the building so it is just "as built" in '85, posts and purlins. No cost there to leave it alone and no up front money paying for studs on a stick built that will not be "finished".
Mark

 

[slowTA]

Madmaxnj, can you PM me who is doing your site prep and floor? I'm in Morris county and can't find someone to give me a price on excavating for my 30x50!

 

[jives]

No regrets, only 4 years old. Cost differential about 12K, most all due to foundation for a stick built. Material (lumber, slab) cost the same between them. Could not have built the garage we wanted if it were stick built. Pole barn just as strong, but we have Permacolumns.

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

My old rental had a cheaply built 20x 40 , and all the posts were rotted off at ground level, I wished they'd done something better.

 

[JamesW84]

No regrets, only 4 years old. Cost differential about 12K, most all due to foundation for a stick built. Material (lumber, slab) cost the same between them. Could not have built the garage we wanted if it were stick built. Pole barn just as strong, but we have Permacolumns.

12k difference sounds like a lot. I've quoted both and I don't remember the difference for sure, but I know it was a lot less than that doing everything except concrete myself.

One thing to remember is you don't have to pour a whole concrete floor just because you go with footer and foundation walls.

I'm going 32x64 with a full footer and foundation wall, but only 16x64 will be concrete (that's the plan). The other side will be gravel for storage (truck, backhoe, trailer, project car, whatever.

I know some people have pole barns with poles in the ground that are just fine, but I read a lot of stories of the opposite. I decided if I was gonna do a pole barn, i was gonna do perma columns, which increased the cost by about $100-120 per post. In the end, since I'm going to insulate the concreted side, i chose to just stick frame it on a stem wall.

 

[rwilly]

I lived in a pole building, or as the builder called it, a post frame structure.
I didn’t like it for many reasons.
I plan on building a garage on my current property and I want to go stick built foundation.

 

[850xpeps]

My view on pole buildings is I dislike them. They are for storing bales. They go against building properly. Keep wood out of the ground. A slab foundation building is allowed to move without wrecking the connection between the wall and slab. If people are wanting a slab inside a building but can’t afford both then I would suggest getting the slab done and then buy the lumber to frame when they could afford it.

 

[Uncle Dave]

If you look at the big picture 8k is not that much money. Go stick, you'll be happier. Dave

 

[MSH1]

I did a 32x48 last year with a 12' ceiling in the first half and vaulted in the back. Post are 3 2x6s set in metal bracket poured in concrete. No lumber in the ground. Post 8' centers, trusses 24" centers with osb sheeting. No regrets will stud and insulate later.

 

[larry_g]

Do I regret it, no. Do I wish that I could have gone with a better sealed and finished building, yes. For me the building does what I want it to do. It's a farm shop that is not a show place, not heated and finished, but it is big enough to get my equipment into. What do you need for your building to do for you? Answer that and you are further along the path to deciding construction type.

Decide if that extra $8-10k is better spent on a higher end building or spend it on the equipment to outfit it with.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[tomroblee]

I had my uninsulated pole barn built about 10 years ago with PemaColumn posts. I have no regrets for my use of the building.

The primary reason I went with pole construction is that a couple of Amish builders seem to have the pole barn market cornered in my area. They have an excellent reputation and completed the building and slab in just a few days. The local stick builders seem to get mixed reviews on some aspects, and have a reputation for dragging construction on for months.

You mention plans for a vented roof and R30 ceiling insulation. I'm not sure about your insulation plans for the attic room. Most R30 insulation will be about 10" thick. It's difficult to squeeze 10" of insulation and still have room for air flow above it with some truss designs. Also, all attic trusses are not equal. Make sure that you are getting a truss designed for the load and deflection you want

 

[lakeroadster]

The appearance and it's appeal to your tastes has to do with how the building is finished.

As others have said, foundation cost is the big advantage of a pole building. You'll save a lot of money over the traditional "footers & foundation wall" style construction.

The only design that comes close with respect to pricing to a pole building would be a monolithic foundation, with a stick built frame.

You can specify the pole building to have book shelf type girts and then sheathe the inside with whatever you like... plywood, OSB, drywall, steel, whatever. This eliminates the bulk of the interior stud wall retrofitting.

And you can use perma-columns, as tomroblee stated, and never have any structural wood in the ground.

End result will be less expensive than a conventional stick framed building and will look exactly the same when finished.

There's also a hybrid.. which gives you a stick built building, on poles....

If code allows, how about a hybrid? Stick built on pole barn foundation. It is very common here. My 24x32 was built this way 5 years ago and has been a perfect compromise between the two. Plus, your foundation is the form for the concrete floor. Here in NE Ohio.... without concrete or any inside finishing... 10K. Add 5K for concrete (including 10 foot front skirt).

 

[850xpeps]

The appearance and it's appeal to your tastes has to do with how the building is finished.

As others have said, foundation cost is the big advantage of a pole building. You'll save a lot of money over the traditional "footers & foundation wall" style construction.

The only design that comes close with respect to pricing to a pole building would be a monolithic foundation, with a stick built frame.

You can specify the pole building to have book shelf type girts and then sheathe the inside with whatever you like... plywood, OSB, drywall, steel, whatever. This eliminates the bulk of the interior stud wall retrofitting.

And you can use perma-columns, as tomroblee stated, and never have any structural wood in the ground.

End result will be less expensive than a conventional stick framed building and will look exactly the same when finished.

There's also a hybrid.. which gives you a stick built building, on poles....

I’m going to assume your “monolithic foundation” is what I would call a thickened edge slab? Common up here for shops. Works well and is fast and can be faster than a pole barn. If you are planning or framing inbetween poles.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

 

[James-W]

I think if you are only going to use the building for storage, then a pole barn may very well fit your needs. But if you plan to insulate and heat/cool the building and use it as a workshop, then I think stick built is a far better idea.

 

[rburke65]

Depends on a few things. If you are going to finish the inside then stud it. I had a 32 x40 x8 built 36 years ago for storage and it's still standing. Paid ..?.. $5K for it and it has served me well. Just built a 32 x56 x12 on a pole foundation with studded 2x6 walls, insulated and finished inside. A lot more money but.... My 4x6" and 6x6 poles are every 4' ....not every 8' on center.

 

[mineallmine]

I was going to go with a pole barn when I built my 24x32 but the city gave me so much hassle it was simpler albeit more expensive to go full foundation stick built. In the end I am much happier with the final result and the added value to my property is better. I also plan to stay here for a while so stick was the way to go. I fully finished mine inside to stick made it easier for me.

If you can afford it I would spend the extra and go stick. If you are torn, better to err on side of caution than to say after I should have gone stick.

 

[madmaxnj]

Thanks for the feedback. Geez, really has my thinking now, can you smell the smoke?
So a few things.

1. Both builders are just doing framing, sheathing, and ceiling/insulation. The electrical, wall insulation and interior wall sheathing I will do myself later. So both builders are the same in that regard.

2. The building will be for storage and hobbyist wrenching. I do plan on putting in a lift, and eventually storing a motorhome. I’ll be doing routine maintenance and repairs on my vehicles only. Maybe rebuild a Harley, maybe some minor restoration work on a hot rod, maybe a turbo install on the Vette. Nothing big. Nothing where I’ll be in there day-in, day-out.

3. I will want to keep it above freezing in the winter. I’ll pour on more heat over a weekend if I’m doing some work in there (heat will be electric only). Likewise I’ll put a window A/C in there from my old house if I’m doing something in there during the summer, again, just over the weekend.

4. Soffits will have baffles so that they breathe. Learned that here

5. I figure I need the building to last 40-50 years. I have no heirs, so if it’s falling down as I am, it will be somebody else’s problem.

6. If I start doing permacollumns and other fancy stuff on the pole barn, then that further diminishes the cost savings. I priced up the materials to finish the two structures I’m looking at. Difference is $7.8K (still waiting on actual prices for a couple of things, since the pole builder isn’t doing the floor or gutters, just using guestimates in there for now).

7. There is a chance of hitting underground rock where the garage will go. The area seems to be pretty rocky, with rocks poking out of the ground here and there. I figure the pole barn will lessen the probability of hitting rock when building, thought it still exists. And I figure it will be less of a cost impact if they only have to bust up rock in a couple of places for poles, rather than for 112 linear feet for the foundation. This is my single biggest fear with either build.

8. There are a few acres of woods directly behind the new house. The previous owners let things get out of hand with mice. I f%ing hate mice. So it also looks like I’ll be setting myself up for a bit of work to seal up the pole building, especially where the siding meets the ground skirt board. I saw on a post here someone found these rubber filler pieces that go in between the metal and skirts and filled it in. So I’d have to find those or go through many cans of expanding foam or something to seal that up.

You guys really have me thinking for $7800 to go with the full build. After I get the zoning permit I’ll have to get both builders onsite to make sure their estimates hold and there are no additional costs. Thanks for the feedback.

 

[stm317]

8. There are a few acres of woods directly behind the new house. The previous owners let things get out of hand with mice. I f%ing hate mice. So it also looks like I’ll be setting myself up for a bit of work to seal up the pole building, especially where the siding meets the ground skirt board. I saw on a post here someone found these rubber filler pieces that go in between the metal and skirts and filled it in. So I’d have to find those or go through many cans of expanding foam or something to seal that up.

A piece of J trim along the bottom would probably keep them out.
Or this bottom trim piece would do the same thing:

 

[OneOfEm]

A piece of J trim along the bottom would probably keep them out.
Or this bottom trim piece would do the same thing:

Bottom trim plus inside closure:

 

[kberjian]

I built a 50x60 post frame shop and I have absolutely no complaints about it. As others mentioned it allowed me to put up the building first, then do the concrete/finishings inside at a later date. Our climate up here (Alberta, Canada) means that we don't suffer from as much wood rot for the poles so life span is not an issue.

In terms of cost, my building was 46k including all materials and erection. A similar metal building including erection (excluding foundation) was 63k when built. A stick build building was 55k including erection(excluding foundation).

 

[mike_s]

There's also a hybrid.. which gives you a stick built building, on poles....

so how do you keep the poles in the ground from rotting out in 10 to 20 years?

and replace them?

Where I live we have lots of ground moisture. Seems to me that that's a lot of money to put on top of wood poles in ground that will need replaced.

 

[rburke65]

Mike_s..... I don't really think there is a way to replace the rotted pole. As said, my pole barn is pushing 40 years old. If you are worried, then don't build a pole building. And if you are in need of a building, it's less cost involved. Depends on your money situation I guess, local build requirements, time line. Lots of variables.

 

[juiced10]

If you are worried about longevity don't build anything. Nothing lasts forever. Rotted wood or crumbing foundations are a part of life. As soon as you build something that never rots or cracks a tornado or earthquake will tear it down. That being said as a pole barn owner I do wish it was stick built as finishing the inside is way easier. Of course finishing never crossed my mind until I found this site.

 

[lakeroadster]

so how do you keep the poles in the ground from rotting out in 10 to 20 years?

and replace them?

Where I live we have lots of ground moisture. Seems to me that that's a lot of money to put on top of wood poles in ground that will need replaced.

10 to 20 years? You need to educate yourself on the matter. There are permacolumns made from concrete, and pressure treated lumber with the correct CCA last a lifetime.

 

[James-W]

If you are worried about longevity don't build anything. Nothing lasts forever. Rotted wood or crumbing foundations are a part of life. As soon as you build something that never rots or cracks a tornado or earthquake will tear it down. That being said as a pole barn owner I do wish it was stick built as finishing the inside is way easier. Of course finishing never crossed my mind until I found this site.

I guess in the great scheme of things you are correct, nothing lasts forever. But let me give you my take on this since I view it quite differently. If you take your time and correctly erect a stick built shop with a concrete floor, and you take proper care of it, it should last beyond your lifetime. That being the case, as far as you are concerned, it will last forever because you will not see it fall apart from age in your lifetime.

That is how I view things, if they last beyond my lifetime it may as well be forever because I will not know the difference. Others may not see it that way.

 

[madmaxnj]

Bottom trim plus inside closure:

This, yes, this is what I was talking about. Thanks, I was able to find it at menards and it looks like they ship it.

They say they are for Pro-Rib panels. Is the design, spacing of the ribs, pretty much standard on all metal buildings?

 

[lakeroadster]

They say they are for Pro-Rib panels. Is the design, spacing of the ribs, pretty much standard on all metal buildings?

No, not at all.

 

[slowtwitch]

I had a pole barn built about 5-6 years ago and don't regret it. The total cost was $14,500. It's a 30x32,10'ft walls and 5" concrete floor. It was also built by Shirk

Thier carpenters and concrete guy were first class. My only regret ....I should have done it sooner and bigger...lol.

 

[MagKarl]

Do a search for pole vs. stick preference and read about all the fear of rotten poles. This comes up all the time here.

Now, search for how many real people actually have a pole barn with rotten poles.

The ratio is huge, very few real topics here about fixing rotten poles.

 

[b-boy]

I had a pole barn built about 5-6 years ago and don't regret it. The total cost was $14,500. It's a 30x32,10'ft walls and 5" concrete floor. It was also built by Shirk

Thier carpenters and concrete guy were first class. My only regret ....I should have done it sooner and bigger...lol.

That's the first thing I said when I walked into my 30x40 pole barn - 'I should have gone bigger'.

 

[denis4x4]

I built a pole barn for its intended use: storing hay. After the horses moved on, enclosed it and use it for storage. I did use steel poles with saddles and bolted on purlins for for the walls. Poured a slab. Hard to say how much it cost as it was built to store hay and then repurposed.

No regrets.

 

[cj7jeep81]

No regrets here, but have only had it for 3 years now. Like others have said, perma-columns are an option if you are concerned about post rot (I was due to some drainage issues, and went with perma columns).

 

[slowTA]

Has anyone heard of or used green post wrap on their pole building?

http://www.advanced-sol.com/

 

[MrSurly]

Keywords:
UC4B
CCA .60
Rat Guard
Sprayfoam
permacolumn
plastisleeve
homedepot

Properly treated (very important! NOT the uc4a PT stuff from HD or Lowes!)
Rated CCA .6 OR UC4B and you'll not have rot issues OR termites.

(I do know that there ARE unscrupulous builders out there using the WRONG poles)
(THOSE are the buildings that folks will be telling the awful stories about later.)
Make darned sure that your *skirt board* is also UC4b!
There is a particular metal trim shape called RatGuard made for the bottom of the wall sheets. It's the very first piece of steel attached.
Trim Drawings
Just make sure to cut it properly at the corners to assure coverage.

In my case, I had closed-cell spray foam sprayed on the lower walls and that *should* insure that critters won't come in even if they did get by the ratguard. Be aware that rats will (almost like magic powers) run straight up the outside metal and enter at the eaves, so don't leave ANY areas unfinished.

 

[MrSurly]

The bottom line: Post frame saves initial cost dollars over stick.

1.) If you never *finish out* the interior walls, those savings remain.
2.) If you finish (stud) the walls, there are no savings; virtually equal Stick wins (I guess)
3.) If you want to build now/ finish later for budget reasons, the costs are delayed and Post wins.
SO:
If you are A. planning to finish the interior *AND* B. you're going to finish the interior soon, go stick. Otherwise, post.

 

[Flail]

I thought about it but I have water 2’ down from surface everywhere year round and didn’t want poles sitting in water constantly. At 2 feet down it’s solid rock and that would be the next ordeal trying to make holes deep enough. If my soil conditions favored it, I would have gone with a pole building.