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Anybody use Porcelain tiles?

docpaulo

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Sep 14, 2008
Messages
12
Hi

I'm looking at finishing my garage and looking for cheaper options.. epoxy is cheapest so far at close to a dollar per sq foot DIY... but I'm thinking porcelain tile may be cheaper ( labor is me... so free )....

My local lowes has some porcelain tiles for 88cents/sf...

any drawbacks to using porcelain floor tile? I know the grout can catch dirt, but other than that is this a reasonable option?

thanks`
 
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GeorgiaHybrid

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Sep 9, 2008
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Extreme NW Georgia
Several users here have used porcelain tiles for their floors. Most have used tiles larger than 12" though.

Pros: Hard, not subject to tire lift, easy to replace if one breaks, most are slip resistant, easy to include designs and color patterns, DIY friendly if the concrete substrate is in good shape

Cons: Easy to break, grout needs to be sealed and cleaned often, tiles crack if the concrete under them settles, need a tile saw to install (OK, buying tools is not really a drawback on this board...)
 

zeebad1

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Jan 2, 2006
Messages
256
Location
Northern Illinois
We put porcelain tile in the car storage area...


PA040018.jpg


I wouldn't use it in a work area, but for storage, it's just fine. Sweeps & mops up really well. I did seal the grout, and I may have to do that every couple of years, but other than that, it's maintenance free.

Be careful of the cheap stuff. We bought enough tile from Home Depot to do the garage, bath, kitchen, and office @ 68 cents apiece. Once we started laying it, we found that they weren't square, and the color wasn't consistent from box to box.

I ended up going to a local flooring store, and getting a better quality tile for $1.68/sq. ft.
 

gcan

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Dec 30, 2006
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152
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Alabama
ZEEBAD1 - I think your floor looks great!
I'm strongly considering going with tile for the same reasons docpaulo mentions, I like that if I use a light color it will brighten my garage, it's strong, and DIY friendly but my garage is used as much for projects as for storage so I'm curious why you "wouldn't use it for a work area"?
What problems have you had?
 

7echo

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Feb 16, 2008
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433
Location
coastal Georgia
For grout you can use SpectraLOCK from Laticrete. It is an epoxy grout that works great. A little more attention to detail is required, but the instructions are good. More expensive than regular grout, but no sealing is required. There are plenty of color options available.
 

6t7gto

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Dec 6, 2005
Messages
522
Location
bedford,ohio
I did mine with a dark grout and no major problems so far. It's been down 3 years.
It is slippery when wet but I put walk off mats around my wife's car and that took care of that problem.
I have dropped a wrench and put a little chip in it. No biggie.
I was going to go with epoxy but I read to many stories of not prepping well and having problems.
Got mine at Lowe's for less than $1.00 sq.ft. including thinset and grout. Borrowed the saw from the neighbor.
Had a fella that was in between jobs and I thought he could use the work. He quoted me $3.50 a sq.ft. to install. That would have been $3500.00 in labor for both areas of my garage. A couple of days earlier he was bragging that he had done 600 sq.ft. in one day. He asked me what I had in mind and I told him $1000.00 in small bills in an envelope. I did it myself.
 

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docpaulo

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Sep 14, 2008
Messages
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We put porcelain tile in the car storage area...


PA040018.jpg


I wouldn't use it in a work area, but for storage, it's just fine. Sweeps & mops up really well. I did seal the grout, and I may have to do that every couple of years, but other than that, it's maintenance free.

Be careful of the cheap stuff. We bought enough tile from Home Depot to do the garage, bath, kitchen, and office @ 68 cents apiece. Once we started laying it, we found that they weren't square, and the color wasn't consistent from box to box.

I ended up going to a local flooring store, and getting a better quality tile for $1.68/sq. ft.

your floor looks great... I'm amazed how the grout lines are all very straight...

thanks to all for the info... i'm still debating which to do.. but I'm leaning towards tile... it's basically car storage and a 10x10 work area - wood work and light hobby stuff... no brake rotors or transmissions --- and I have rhino ramps although sometimes may use a floor jack...

by the way what size grout line did you guys use? 1/4" 1/8"?
 

zeebad1

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Jan 2, 2006
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Location
Northern Illinois
ZEEBAD1 - I think your floor looks great!
I'm curious why you "wouldn't use it for a work area"?
What problems have you had?

Thank you. I haven't had any problems. I tend to work with a lot of heavy iron, and I'd be afraid of damaging the tile.

your floor looks great... I'm amazed how the grout lines are all very straight...

by the way what size grout line did you guys use? 1/4" 1/8"?

Thank you, but they aren't that straight. I have a friend that laid them all free hand. I pay a lot more attention to tile floors now, and have seen some pretty crappy professional jobs.

The lines on my floor are 1/4".

I did mine with a dark grout and no major problems so far. It's been down 3 years.

I have dropped a wrench and put a little chip in it.

I did it myself.

Very nice job!! It looks great.

I have the whole rest of the shop as a work area, so I don't plan on working in there.
 

jdoering

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Nov 23, 2009
Messages
30
Spectralock (epoxy grout) is great stuff. I'd definitely go for it in an an area where durability and cleanliness of grout is a concern. If settling of the concrete or crack movement is an issue; products like Ditra might do the trick (but might eliminate any cost advantage as well).

Check out the folks at John Bridge forums for all sorts of expert advice on subfloor isolation, applying epoxy grout (easy enough to do in my experience but well worth reading up on in advance like all epoxies), etc. I'm sure they've talked extensively about tile over concrete over there.

-Jeff
 

gcan

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Dec 30, 2006
Messages
152
Location
Alabama
I think t looks great but have two concerns for myself:
1) damaging a tile if I drop something.....but should be easy enough to dremel one tile
out and replace
2) is it slippery? I tiled my kitchen and when it gets wet it's like ice...suggestions to
prevent
 
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docpaulo

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Sep 14, 2008
Messages
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thanks to all for the ideas... i decided to do tile in the 11x9 area at the end of the 30x9 garage where I'll be doing my hobby work and stuff..

I purchased some big d's tile for the rest of the garage where the car will actually park...

I started doing the tile and my back hurts from kneeling for a few hours.... I did 24sf in 3 hours... if I paid myself per SF I'd be broke....
 

showroomgarage

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Sep 5, 2006
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Location
Portland, Oregon
There is a fair amount of misinformation that circulates around the internet and some of the information about porcelain tile is not accurate, particularly when it comes to its durability against staining and strength.

Once porcelain tile is mortared to concrete it is amazingly strong and is not easy to break. Porcelain tile is simply the hardest, most durable surface you could have for a garage floor. Of course, it almost goes without saying that if you drop an engine block on tile that the product will crack, but then all flooring systems would not be immune to this kind of damage.

Porcelain tiles have high mechanical strength and are extremely chip resistant. If you tour Ferrari's assembly plant in Modena; Lamborghini's factory in Bolognese, Italy; or BMW's factory in Leipzig, Germany, just to name a few, you will witness porcelain tile on their shop floors that have been in service for years and are holding up better than any other flooring system could. You can only imagine the amount of abuse these tiles are subjected to in a manufacturing environment.

Simply stated, there is no other surface treatment that has the durability, strength and highest return on an investment than porcelain tile, which has a life expectancy that will last generations.

Regarding grout, this is also a topic where there is a lot of misinformation floating around the internet. All tiles used in a garage environment should specify epoxy or stainless grout. Just as in the examples above, if you visit the factories where these tiles are being used, the stainless grouts have not be sealed (you actually do not want to seal the tiles or grout because cleaners and dirt will “float” on the surface of the sealant) and are holding up just fine.

Of course tiles will crack if the concrete under them settles, but that would take a catastrophic flooring failure of the foundation to move that much where tile would be affected. In the event this actually happened, here again no flooring system would be immune to damage, but porcelain would hold up better than any other shift in the concrete foundation.

Lastly, it is not accurate to say that porcelain enamel is not durable or that it stains. That would be true if we were talking about natural stone or ceramic tiles, but if you select a porcelain tile that is warranted against staining, nothing will affect them, be it oil, grease, chemicals or other contaminants.

The key is to do your research on selecting the best porcelain tile to meet your needs. In my opinion, select only those manufacturers that will warrant their product against staining. The garage is a very harsh environment and you will want a tile product that can hold up against the abuse.
 
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Freejack

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Aug 8, 2007
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555
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St. Peters MO
Assuming not all porcelain tiles are the same, do you have any advice as to what specifications one needs to look at for durability or stain resistance?

The reason I ask is that the local liquidator store has a boatload of porcelain tiles on sale, some are name-brand like Datile, but many are in unmark packages. Prices range from 40 to 79 cents per sq ft, so it seems like a good deal if they are quality tiles.

Jake
 

Daniel Dudley

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Sep 4, 2009
Messages
3,546
I'm not sure how you tell good tile. Daltile is good, if that is the brand you are looking at.

A couple of things about installation.

Always spread the thinset straight, in one direction, and lay the tile so thet it flops down in the direction of the spread. S, curve or wavey spreads can trap air under a larger tile, and air makes for weak spots.

Also, in general, it is best to align the tile boxes the same way facing the work. In other words, if the box has a lid, always have it open to the left, or whatever direction you fancy. Always take the tile out of the box the same way, and install it on the floor without turning it in relation to the floor.

In other words, install the tile so that the corner that was in the top left of the box is on the top left on the floor. That way, if the tile has any rack or out of squareness, the out of squareness will all be consistant with every tile. It all comes off the production line with the same defects, and goes into the box the same way. Keep it that way, aand your install will be much easier. This is true of all tiles, but is especially true of mosaics.

Needless to say, you should try to get it all in one batch, as a matching production run.
 

Freejack

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Aug 8, 2007
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555
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St. Peters MO
Thanks for the information, especially concerning the direction of the spread. I've laid plenty of tile in the home so I have a decent amount of experience, but never in a application with as much load as a garage sees.

In doing some research, there is a wear rating (PEI) and coeffienct of friction rating on some tiles. It appears to me that garage tile should have a PEI 5 and a COF of .6 or better. Unfortunately I can't seem to find any information as to whether a PEI is just related to surface wear to impact durability.

Jake
 

ct71rr

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May 19, 2009
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478
Location
Massachusetts
I believe that porcelain tiles come in different strength ratings (PEI rating/class). You shoul look for tiles that have the highest rating. I think they are rated from class 1 (walls-no foot traffic) to class 5 (heavy traffic/commercial use), with class 5 being the strongest. A lot of the bargain tiles sold at Home Depot and Lowes are class 2, i believe.
 
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