There's nothing wrong with RockAuto parts, and BMW does usually indicate a premium over a domestic.
Anyone does mobile auto repair diagnostics?
- Thread starter qqzj
- Start date
kbeefy
Well-known member
For a long time Orilleys was doing a brake package deal where it was $99 for pads and rotors, $109 for premium.
Saved alot of money, some trucks had rotors $100+ each.
They said there parts were manufactured by bosch, but I was pretty skeptical about that.
Saved alot of money, some trucks had rotors $100+ each.
They said there parts were manufactured by bosch, but I was pretty skeptical about that.
Rotors can vary wildly on price even on seemingly common vehicles. My sister called me last week because she got quoted $1000 for pads and rotors front and back on her Town & Country. Immediately I'm thinking they are trying to rip her off. When I checked it was $500 my cost on a commercial account for those rotors. It has some rare option that uses different stuff and it was all special order. The most expensive ones I've done recently was a BMW M3 I think. Those rotors were over $700 a pair. We have another pricey set sitting here for an Audi A6.
haveissues
Well-known member
My brother brought his civic to the dealership for a recall and asked them to inspect it. They came out and told him it needed brakes all the way around and it will be $600 per axle. They were ornery when he said no, even more so when he told them he had just done the rears himself a few thousand miles ago.
Ford Quick Lame tried to tell me my Navigator with brand new ball joints needed new ball joints to pass inspection.
Haven't been back since.
haveissues
Well-known member
I'm lucky enough to have 2 friends with inspection machines so my cars roll in and roll out. They know that I keep my cars in good order and don't bother to look at them.
I started going to my dad's friend's kid. Don't really know them personally but they run a machine/speed/engine shop moreso than do mundane work. So they're a lot smarter about inspections.
Diag'ing a 20 yr old manlift with an unsupported engine and machine. Had multiuple issues once we were able to get the software talking to the engine ECM it showed eveything was fine as far it was concerned. So the software was useless. Had to resort to the DMM with backprobes and experience, explained to the customer ahead of time he could be looking at a big diag bill but this machine is worth $10k just sitting there, running $20k plus. Someones %$?*box beater that's worth $1500 good luck getting them to pay $500 for diag.
richfinn
Well-known member
Choose your battles carefully (and get paid) is the best advice I've ever been given
nbpt100
Well-known member
It may not be on a BMW today. Look on Rock Auto and ECS Tuning. FPCEuro is good from what little I have seen of them, But they dont carry everything. If you buy the parts as individuals it may be cheaper (a little) than in a kit. With Rock auto you have to be aware of the shipping and try to work out of the same warehouse. Not always possible. But worth a look. Good luck.
nbpt100
Well-known member
Those are worth turning. If you can keep the thickness.
bcschief
Well-known member
But you have to find someone to do it, the labor rate to turn rotors is sometimes the same as replacing them. At least on the cheaper end of rotors. Most shops today don't have brake lathes.
All good no worries I was just really surprised you could buy pads and rotors for under $100 (on any car). Personally I think $226 for kit (which also includes sensor) that has lifetime guarantee is a bargain. I've been paying $200-$300 for brakes (front or back) for all of my vehicles for as long as I can remember.
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
You can turn them, but the fins are still full of rust, pad material may be baked in 40thou deep, rust is causing the friction surface to pit and flake off, etc. Oh, and the warranty. If anything happens it's your fault and you cut them for free for 1y/12k, 2y/24k, etc.
Or just buy another rotor. Any problems call the supplier and another is delivered.
For saving fancy OE rotors that are really expensive a lathe can be worth it. Once the aftermarket parts store stuff goes on either pad slap or replace. They're not worth cutting as they'll just rot out anyways.
nbpt100
Well-known member
Well, of course. It depends on the individual circumstances. There are still some shopes with brake lathes out there who are willing to turn the rotors you deliver to them. It is worth a look. At $250+per rotor you should able to find a good cost savings if someone in your area has the ability. You do not need to be a master mechanic or tool and die maker to run a brake lathe. Heck I have done it. You hope someone running it has some experience and basic training but does not required to be billed at $100 an hour. Even if it cost $75 per you have a nice $ savings. It is just an idea that may pay off big based on the quoted rotor prices above. But Maybe not?
richfinn
Well-known member
I can't really comment on aftermarket brakes but going back to auto diagnostics, make sure you only use 100% OEM parts (preferably genuine factory parts) from a reputable source.
Sensors, modules, actuators are all regularly superceded to improved part numbers and if you end up doing the repair, you really want the updated components. The quality of some aftermarket stuff is absolute garbage and will have you second guessing your diag if your not extremely careful!!
Sensors, modules, actuators are all regularly superceded to improved part numbers and if you end up doing the repair, you really want the updated components. The quality of some aftermarket stuff is absolute garbage and will have you second guessing your diag if your not extremely careful!!
nbpt100
Well-known member
Maybe not today. It was almost 4 years about and we know what inflation has done. I bet on RA those same parts delivered are not a lot over $100. At the time Rock Auto had some of the best pricing.. Take a look at Blauparts too. They do a great job on German Car parts.
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Electronic components are so frustrating if you have to use aftermarket due to back order, lack of NOS, etc. It's hard enough to diagnose these cars without adding variables.
Hyundai purge valves, GM vvt solenoids, cheap ignition coils that are DOA, connectors with bad pin fitment, etc.
This may be the wrong place to post, let's try nevertheless. Need some assistance.
Need sanity check on calculations please. I normally use a Picoscope 2205A for most low Voltage diagnostics. Today was out without the Pico and needed to check an intermittent misfiring BMW 1150RT. Only had Hantek 1008 at hand and small relay coil that I could use to see a bit of the induced ignition waveform. Got a crude waveform but dwell (only just) and fire time visible. Then only noted that the Hantek software suggests that the duration of the above is a few microseconds. See photo. Should this unit measure not be milliseconds, and not microseconds? Am I reading/interpreting the Hantek incorrectly?
My sanity check calculations below. Please help and TIA.
Val Unit
RPM @ idle 1200 RPMin
Seconds per minute 60 Seconds
Thus : Revs per second 20 RPSec
Thus : Seconds per Revolution 0,05 Seconds
One crank rotation (Degrees) 360 Degrees
Assume dwell and Ignition duration degrees rotation 55 Degrees
Calculated duration 0,007638889 Seconds
Thus ; Approx Total Dwell & Burn Milliseconds duration 7,638888889 milli seconds
Need sanity check on calculations please. I normally use a Picoscope 2205A for most low Voltage diagnostics. Today was out without the Pico and needed to check an intermittent misfiring BMW 1150RT. Only had Hantek 1008 at hand and small relay coil that I could use to see a bit of the induced ignition waveform. Got a crude waveform but dwell (only just) and fire time visible. Then only noted that the Hantek software suggests that the duration of the above is a few microseconds. See photo. Should this unit measure not be milliseconds, and not microseconds? Am I reading/interpreting the Hantek incorrectly?
My sanity check calculations below. Please help and TIA.
Val Unit
RPM @ idle 1200 RPMin
Seconds per minute 60 Seconds
Thus : Revs per second 20 RPSec
Thus : Seconds per Revolution 0,05 Seconds
One crank rotation (Degrees) 360 Degrees
Assume dwell and Ignition duration degrees rotation 55 Degrees
Calculated duration 0,007638889 Seconds
Thus ; Approx Total Dwell & Burn Milliseconds duration 7,638888889 milli seconds
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
That's supposed to be an ignition waveform?
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
1.5ms burn time is pretty common. IDK what the capture is supposed to be, no part of that looks like a firing line. Unless he's saying he's connected into the coil-side of a relay with a regular lead, and holding the relay like a COP lead trying to get a pattern. In which case I would say he needs to get a primary signal or a better probe. Of course, some 3 and basically no 4 wire coils are going to give you a nice looking ignition pattern.
Thank you for the replies. Were away from my Picoscope and probes. This is a friend's BMW R series motorcycle. He experienced random misfires. With the only tool available, a Hantek scope, I merely wanted to see whether the relevant COP was firing consistently. I used an old 3 pin relay he had, coil was still ok at 74 Ohm. Removed the bridged resistor and used as a makeshift probe held on top of the ignition coil. I believe the signal, although crude, is the coil secondary circuit. Plug was firing consistently. The actual values and burn time not relevant due to poor signal. However, what had me puzzled wat the fact that the Hantek software indicated micro seconds, (See just under menu on top, in red) not milliseconds. I do realise that the actual dwell and burn time does not show up properly, however, even quadrupling the value or a wasted spark system will not bring it close to milli seconds. Saw somewhere that the Hantek software is not too hot. In summary, I have an idea what a good dwell, fire and burn signal looks like. The issue is the time scale of the Hantek indicating in microseconds. Maybe I'm just not interpreting time display correctly.