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Anyone ever used sheetrock and OSB in a wall?

Blazinzuk

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Just wondering. That's what I did OSB is 9 bucks a sheet more and with my height it would have required 22 more sheets of OSB.

So OSB 8 ft up, then sheetrock. I will likely cover the transition with a 1x4.

Still have to tape the sheetrock and I'm painting the whole thing
 

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matt_i

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Imo, also wise to caulk that joint as it could become a pathway for air leakage into the wall from the heated space on out. The better its sealed the better it will retain heat.
 

OccupantRJ

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My compressor/tool storage room has both OSB and drywall on the wall separating the room from the shop. When the door is shut it really cuts down on compressor noise.
 

NUTTSGT

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Just wondering. That's what I did OSB is 9 bucks a sheet more and with my height it would have required 22 more sheets of OSB.

So OSB 8 ft up, then sheetrock. I will likely cover the transition with a 1x4.

Still have to tape the sheetrock and I'm painting the whole thing

Curious as to why the ceiling sheets didn't get staggered ?
 

strutaeng

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Dallas, TX
When I remodeled our house I retroffited the kids room with 15/32 plywood (walls and ceiling) and simpson holdowns on the corners. Regular gypsum board over that. Except for window and door jambs, you can't tell the plywood is back there.

It's our high-wind resistant room in our house.:beer:
 
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Blazinzuk

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Afton Wy
Curious as to why the ceiling sheets didn't get staggered ?

So I asked about this to a couple guys. Both guys are contractors and have done plenty of their own drywall. Both of them said it doesn't matter at all, as long as the sheetrock is put up properly and taped good.

In fact a guy came to help me with my door who offered to help me finish up the taping, he did drywall for 25 years. Says he actually prefers it done like that. As he put it staggering sheets is for those who can't tape and mud very well LOL.

My reasoning when I started is basically it's a shop and I probably won't even sand enough to make the tape job go completely away.
 
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Blazinzuk

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Imo, also wise to caulk that joint as it could become a pathway for air leakage into the wall from the heated space on out. The better its sealed the better it will retain heat.

I have foam boards under that so it's air sealed to the outside, but I planned on caulking on the edge of the 1x4 I put up to cover the joint.

As well as caulking every joint on the OSB
 

bzinsky

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I had a particular wall that I didn't want anyone to be able to easily kick through it.

My contractor used osb and then skim coated it with joint compound, has been holding up great
 
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Blazinzuk

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I used OSB under my Sheetrock.

That's a route I thought about going. But in reality with the current price of OSB I think I would have done 3/4" paint grade plywood.

But budget reasons kept me from either of those. Budget reasons are why I did it this way
 

ssdave

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When I've used OSB and sheet rock mixed, I just taped the joint between the OSB and sheetrock the same as every other joint. Once tapered out and painted, you don't see any difference. I've done this on ICF houses where I wanted to hang cabinets or shelves or such, so wanted the strength of the osb. We just taped, mudded, and textured the OSB to match the sheetrock. Where I've used OSB in the garage, I've always sheetrocked over it, but what you did should work okay. I'd consider skin coating it with mud and texturing it to match the sheetrock for a consistent look.
 
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Blazinzuk

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When I've used OSB and sheet rock mixed, I just taped the joint between the OSB and sheetrock the same as every other joint. Once tapered out and painted, you don't see any difference. I've done this on ICF houses where I wanted to hang cabinets or shelves or such, so wanted the strength of the osb. We just taped, mudded, and textured the OSB to match the sheetrock. Where I've used OSB in the garage, I've always sheetrocked over it, but what you did should work okay. I'd consider skin coating it with mud and texturing it to match the sheetrock for a consistent look.

I'll skim coat it if I have problems getting paint to cover it. That's a couple weeks away yet. Got a sheet to test stuff on before I decide that or not.

I didn't think I'd like it much but I actually do like it and if I wasn't worried about lighting I'd likely leave the OSB like it is
 

johnnyradiant

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I've seen it enough with OSB, or in days gone by, plywood, that you could call it a common option. The one thing I'm not sure on is the caulking of the OSB joints. I have and would do it again so for me it is moot but it could also be code to get a bead in the joints to seal things up.
 

6768rogues

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My son owns some houses occupied by students in the nearby state college village. They like to punch holes in the walls. When I rebuild them, sometimes I put OSB behind the wallboard. The next time they punch the wall is guaranteed to be their last.
 

Vegaman_Dan

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Advantage to OSB below and sheetrock above is that the OSB is easily replaceable if you damage it or if you change things like adding airlines, cabinets, etc. Might be worth throwing a coat of paint on it if only to help reflect light better, but beyond that, OSB seems to be a good use case for your situation.

It's a garage, not a museum. Work gets done there.
 

HoosierBuddy

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I went with a similar approach on my garage. I used t1-11 exterior siding on the first 8-feet, then have 5 feet of #2 sheet metal above that.

I did not finish the t1-11, and I'm happy with that decision. 12 years in, it still looks good. Like OSB, it's much more durable than drywall. The steel above (which matches the ceiling) is bright white and does a great job of reflecting light and keeping everything out there nice an bright.

Phil
 

Ilikeike

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Northern Ca.
Not that it matters in this particular situation,but I thought the point of stagering most anything in construction was strength.

Shop looks good.
 

Dureault_s

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Oct 20, 2017
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Did osb 8’ up then strapped the last 6 ft then floor flashing 3 ft of grey tin, transition flashing 1’ black tin around outlets, transition flashing, bright white to ceiling. Something solid to screw to down low. Kinda wish I would did osb the whole way tho.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

HeelSpur

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WV
I osb'ed all exterior walls then drywalled. Outside walls are T-111. Electric bill came yesterday, $62.
 
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