anyone have a Stihl Chainsaw?

[pl_silverado]

I've had a few over the years. Used an Ms260 and ms660 for a long time. Had some issues with the 660 and ended up getting rid of it. Just recently sold the ms260 also. Now running an ms150tc and ms461. This many be my new favorite combo. The 150tc is so light you can swing it around all day without getting tired. The 461 only comes out for felling and bucking. Also have an ht131 pole saw which is great. Buy a pro grade model and you'll be happy for a long time.

 

[Robinson1]

Had a 025 seemed like it would be a nice size for limbing and general clean up. It turned out to be an underpowered and hard to start POS. While cutting a 12 inch log it was not uncommon to have to pull the bar out of the cut and rev the saw up. It just ran out of power. Also went through 2 carbs in less than a year and before anyone blames my mix I had 2 other saws, a blower, and a trimmer all running on the same mix and none of the others had issues. Ended up selling it for a loss.

Had a 290 Farmboss and a Husky 350 at the same time. The Stihl had 10cc of engine on the Husky, both running Oregon Pro Chisel on 18 inch bars. Husky would cut circles around the Stihl. Not saying the Farmboss was a bad saw it was just disappointing that I could achieve the same if not better results with a smaller saw from a competing manufacturer.

This past spring I found myself needing another saw in a pinch and almost bought Stihl due to convenience. Stihl dealer is 5 miles away, Husky dealer is 40. Went and looked at the new 291 Farmboss and the 311, liked the 311 but something in the back of my mind kept telling me not to do it. Ended up with a 460 Husky.

I'm not against Stihl, I've just had better luck with Husky.

 

[icthruu74]

I have an 034 Super that I bought a few years ago from the original owner. He wanted a smaller saw and I needed something larger. It's become my favorite saw, easy to start, runs good, and has a good power/weight ratio for my use With an 18" bar it covers 90% of my cutting. I also have a 460 magnum that is reserved for big stuff, it's almost too much for my use. And a smaller Husqvarna saw that I basically don't use except for limping and small trimming.

You can find some deals on used saws, especially if you don't mind doing some repair work on them.

 

[Backpack Hunter]

I have an MS250 with an 18" bar. Works well for the little amount that I do every year. Never fails to start, and seems to have the power to get the job done.

 

[stihlntime]

If using the same length bar I would think the 362 should be quite a bit more powerful than the 290 if both are adjusted properly?
Possible if the 290 has been muffler modded and richened up (I guess the dealer can't do that) that it would approach the pep of the factory 362?

Yes, there should be a dramatic difference between a 362 and 290 with the same length bar. Muffler nodding done correctly will only give you about 10 to 15 percent, done many of them.The 290 should be adjusted to 13000 to 13250 rpm with a tach. The 362(non cm) often comes set from the factory at 14200 to14400 dealers need to richen them up to 13800 makes a big difference. You can go over to aborsite.com and search for lakesides muffler nodding thread and it will show you how to do a nice mod.

 

[CJM8515]

Pro saw or bust, Be it from Stihl, Echo or Husky. The homeowner grade stuff is only good for occasional use, still better than poulon (that stuff is utter ****!). You wouldnt buy a ryobi if you wanted milwaukee, makita or bosch quality so why buy a cheap homeowner grade saw? Pro saws using metal cases and parts in place of a lot of plastic ones the homeowner grade ones use.

I prefer a husky 455 rancher for general work, also like stilh 038 supver av and so forth. Old stihils are heavier and have poor vibration dampening than newer stuff but they dont have any epa ****. Right my my fav saw is an echo 450P I picked up for a song. Had a cracked top cover I plastic welded.

 

[the spyder]

I have a 021, 025, 260, 362, and 660. My most used saw is the 260. It's lightly ported and muffler mod'ed. It's a great saw and cost me $200 on CL with just a few cords of wood cut. I'm looking for another for when I'm falling with a friend. Add a 3/8 skip tooth chain and your set.

 

[Vinko]

Damn, a hell of a lot of responses and models to look up. I appreciate all the feedback

I'm looking for something durable, lightweight, gas, -- mainly I have to cut through a lot of wooden crates (sometimes we have 50 at a time). The wood crates are ones we don't use (and we don't have room to store), so we have to break them down. Breaking them down by hand has become time intensive so I thought about getting a new chain saw (old one went kaput for good) and It's mainly ripping 1/4" wood down the sides so that we can get the crates to "lay flat" (to get them to fit in one 20' roll off container) -- maybe one of the more expensive homeowner or less expensive pro models would work.

 

[artbuc]

I have an old 034 AV. It's a good saw, but sometimes a little hard starting

Bought my 034AV in 1985. It fires right up even after being in the basement for a couple years with old fuel (treat it much better these days) and runs/cuts like a scalded dog. All I ever did to it was a new plug, air filter, oil delivery line and impulse line.

 

[finn]

If there is a good chance of hitting nails in the crates, a chainsaw is the wrong tool.

A sawsall is cheaper and safer if you will have multiple users breaking down the crates.

Less maintenance, too.

 

[JUNK-MAN]

My Dad has one I can't remember model but he bought it in 1980 and still uses it all the time. So I think its holding up pretty well!

 

[The Toolest Guy]

If there is a good chance of hitting nails in the crates, a chainsaw is the wrong tool.

A sawsall is cheaper and safer if you will have multiple users breaking down the crates.

Less maintenance, too.

It is only the wrong tool if you have the wrong type of chainsaw.

'Ductile Iron Cutting Chain Saw System'
http://www.northtowncompany.com/ics_PowerGrit_ductile_iron_cutting_saw.html

http://www.bigredtruck.com.au/cutters-edge-multi-cut-saw-1125
A quote from the manual for this rescue saw "your BULLET® CHAIN equipped saw is capable of cutting most building materials, including roofing nails, joist hangers, nailing plates, flashing, light gauge sheet metal and
some lightweight concretes. It is capable of cutting automotive sheet metal, automotive glass, hurricane glass, bulletproof glass,
plastics, fiberglass, and many other composite materials. It can also cut aircraft skin, cockpit and aircraft windows, including some
aircraft structural materials*."

Stihl's rescue saw specifically states it can cut aluminum and glass, but I doubt a couple of nails would be any problem.
http://www.stihl.com.au/STIHL-Products/Chainsaws/01620/Emergency-Services-Rescue-Saw.aspx

 

[jkwilson]

If there is a good chance of hitting nails in the crates, a chainsaw is the wrong tool.

A sawsall is cheaper and safer if you will have multiple users breaking down the crates.

Less maintenance, too.

You can use a carbide chain like fire departments use. No idea of cost though.

 

[stihlntime]

At work we cut up mower crates all the time with a 251 with a 16" bar. Retail on a carbide chain is 50 to 60 bucks. We do hit nails from time to time no big deal although it is best to try to avoid them.

 

[Mr Ratchet]

I have a 290 (Farm Boss) that's 15 years old or so. It's fell, limbed, and bucked probably close to a thousand trees from 4" to 30"+ from pine to oak. I have always used a 20' bar with the yellow 3/8 chain. Mine is due for another sprocket, bar, and chain. Here it is on a 20"+ oak stump.
My uncle has a similar model from the late 70's that still rips. One of my buddies is a Husky guy and has a smaller saw that he could not keep up with me. So, he got a 460 (20"-3/8) as well and still gets beat by my 290. I like both brands as well as Echo, but prefer Stihl. For every or every other day use get a Pro grade saw, other wise get one of the better farm type saws and rip away.

 

[Davefr]

The 362(non cm) often comes set from the factory at 14200 to14400 dealers need to richen them up to 13800 makes a big difference. You can go over to aborsite.com and search for lakesides muffler nodding thread and it will show you how to do a nice mod.

Here's my 361 with the Lakeside muffler mod. and the carb. adjusted a little richer. It'll cut alongside 70 cc saws. (I did add a spark arrestor for the dual port but it's not shown in the image)



When you guys talk about bar lengths you need to be specific as to the type of wood. Here in the PNW most saws come with long bars for softwoods. However in the NE they run much shorter bars for hardwoods.

 

[Browning1]

stihl 041 farmboss with 20 inch bar. dad bought it 35 years ago. Other than having carb. rebuilt it is still running strong

 

[My Old Tools]

MS260 pro saw. Other than bars and chains, it has had a new sprocket and a new fuel line and filter. Other than that it just runs. I bought it used and I bet it didn't have 2 hours on it.

 

[MattN03]

Farmboss 290 here. It's a little over 6 years old, gets used to clean up downed trees on our 5 acres (anything from 1" saplings to 42" white oak a few years ago - rolled the tree over with skid steer and cut from both sides!). It's been a great homeowner saw, and I'd buy another Stihl Farmboss in a heartbeat.

 

[toolmutt]

We use MS461R saws with a "Bullet" chain from Cutters Edge. They mostly get used for cutting vertical ventilation holes in shingled roofs. They hold up well to fire service use.

 

[aafadca]

Have a ms170 I got from the pawn shop that looked almost new. Runs great after I finally got rid of the clogged muffler screen. Also have an old 044 that I bought used years ago and it still runs great. Also have a Sthil fs 130 brush trimmer I bought used. I really like my Stihls...after messing with "cheaper" brands that I couldn't keep running☺

 

[rlitman]

Runs great after I finally got rid of the clogged muffler screen.

That's a spark arrestor. It's designed to prevent forest fires.
Just heat it with a torch until it is glowing, and the carbon will burn off. Or use a wire brush on it.

 

[thebeekeeper1]

That's a spark arrestor. It's designed to prevent forest fires.
Just heat it with a torch until it is glowing, and the carbon will burn off. Or use a wire brush on it.

Or tear the screen out, as it is a ridiculous solution to a nonexistent problem. That way you never have to deal with it again. Remove the plug and use a pair of dykes to tear the screen off. It just takes a minute. IIRC the plug size is 18mm.

 

[Davefr]

Or tear the screen out, as it is a ridiculous solution to a nonexistent problem. That way you never have to deal with it again. Remove the plug and use a pair of dykes to tear the screen off. It just takes a minute. IIRC the plug size is 18mm.

That will likely preclude you from ever cutting on public lands and/or could put you at fire liability risk. The screen is super easy to clean and will not affect performance if properly maintained.

I see no reason to remove/destroy it.

There are "bigger fish to fry" when maintaining/improving chainsaw performance.

 

[dr_clyde]

I've got a mid 70's O41 farm boss. I typically run a 16" bar with full chisel chain. I also have 20" and 24" bars, and it runs them fine.

I like the shorter bar, less teeth to sharpen. If I need the bigger bars, they're in the truck.

It's been an awesome saw. I'd like to upgrade someday, but this old girl just keeps on crankin. If it ain't broke...

My dad has an identical saw he bought new in '76. He uses it every year to cut the years firewood. He also has a O51 with a 36" bar running skip chain. I don't really want to cut bigger wood than that lol.

 

[aknawful]

Stihl, Husky, Johnsred, Echo, Dolmar and Makita(Dolmar) are all very good saws. Buy the one with good dealer support in your area for when you do need repairs.
We run Huskies. 363, 55 Rancher and 268XP

 

[gregtwojeeps]

Damn, a hell of a lot of responses and models to look up. I appreciate all the feedback

I'm looking for something durable, lightweight, gas, -- mainly I have to cut through a lot of wooden crates (sometimes we have 50 at a time). The wood crates are ones we don't use (and we don't have room to store), so we have to break them down. Breaking them down by hand has become time intensive so I thought about getting a new chain saw (old one went kaput for good) and It's mainly ripping 1/4" wood down the sides so that we can get the crates to "lay flat" (to get them to fit in one 20' roll off container) -- maybe one of the more expensive homeowner or less expensive pro models would work.

My wife bought me this for my birthday this year. I love it. A lightweight, homeowner grade little workhorse that would fit your needs I think. $179.00 is what it cost her.

 

[finn]

Or tear the screen out, as it is a ridiculous solution to a nonexistent problem. That way you never have to deal with it again. Remove the plug and use a pair of dykes to tear the screen off. It just takes a minute. IIRC the plug size is 18mm.

Have you ever seen a forest fire?

 

[devoncoolman]

Ms390 here. Top end rebuild everything on the top end is new. Runs great starts like a champ. Love it. Id would hesitate to buy another stihl saw if i need another.

 

[MoparTrucks]

I heat with wood and have had an MS 310 for the last 5 years as my primary saw and its never let me down. Starts every time cold or hot and it gets used hard cutting mostly oak and hickory.

Just tuned mine up and sharpened the chains in prep for wood cutting this month!

 

[thebeekeeper1]

Have you ever seen a forest fire?

Yes--and chain saws aren't what start them. Maybe I'd better go check my saws to be sure they aren't up to any shenanigans though, so thanks for the heads-up!

 

[aknawful]

Like said above. Leave the spark arrestor screen in. It's there for a reason......A saw can AND WILL easily start a forest fire!

 

[Farmall450]

MS290 farm boss here. Can be hard starting.
20 inch bar, ample power.

 

[Farmall450]

They are great saws , and can be the start of CAD Chainsaw Addiction Disorder (myself Homelite's were the gateway saws and Stihl have 5 of them )........

...also known as Chainsaw Affective Disorder, Chainsaw Acquisition Disorder, Chainsaw Acquisition Disease .....jus sayin.

CAD Explained!

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/cad-explained.162192/

Same here, damn those homelites!
Particularly the super 2

 

[01f1502wd]

My dad has an older smaller saw, fires right up every time. Only issue we have had with it is dulling of chains, so when chains go on sale he picks up a few. Now have 5-6 chains that all get resharpened till theyre dead.

Brother just picked up a MS 271 FARM BOSS. Its amazingly powerful and slices through just about everything we have put it up against. 10/10 would buy again.

 

[pl_silverado]

For cutting up pallets I would go with the lightest one you can find and just do your best to avoid nails. I'd buy another one of these in a heartbeat.

http://m.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/in-tree-saws/ms150tce/

 

[Dog Garage]

Same here, damn those homelites!
Particularly the super 2

I even have a Homelite C-72, 18 + pound powerhead only, first saw I used as a kid and used as a backup saw to homestead, in later years.

MS290 farm boss here. Can be hard starting.
20 inch bar, ample power.

I bought one of these as a backup saw off the bay. They get bad reviews from saw snobs, but these things have cut a lot of trees and cords over the years, for a saw people throw in a truck bed or basement to forget about it until the next firewood season. It's always started and got the job done. I run a 18 inch bar with .325 chisel on this saw.

 

[Vinko]

If there is a good chance of hitting nails in the crates, a chainsaw is the wrong tool.

A sawsall is cheaper and safer if you will have multiple users breaking down the crates.

Less maintenance, too.

You're right about being careful for nails. That's not an issue in these, but Sawzall. Why didn't I think of that

That said I picked up a 211 -- like some said yes, plastic case. I like it though. Light, nice balance, rips through things on the quick. Blade says "Made in Germany" but I doubt that. Guy told me cheaper ones were made in USA, and really expensive ones made in Germany.

My one complaint: when setting it on floor to start (though I guess you could start on a bench), the foot area doesn't have enough grab if you're wearing steel toe boots. Can't put all your weight on it as you crank it. I notice the dims are different for the pro models. I could see someone having the saw slip on start up. That said, a very healthy respect for what a chain saw can do is necessary!

 

[Vinko]

For cutting up pallets I would go with the lightest one you can find and just do your best to avoid nails. I'd buy another one of these in a heartbeat.

http://m.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/in-tree-saws/ms150tce/

That's a nice one too! Thanks.

 

[Vinko]

My wife bought me this for my birthday this year. I love it. A lightweight, homeowner grade little workhorse that would fit your needs I think. $179.00 is what it cost her.

Thanks Greg: Like you, I got one of the lighter weight models -- home owner grade.got the 211 it was about $279 -- I was sorely tempted to go up in models and get the metal ones, but it would've been overkill for a guy like me in the City -- though that said, there's maintenance tasks I can see using it for. Cutting little 8" dia. and under tree limbs and trunks and whatnot.

The guy told me to be sure to drain the fuel if you don't use it for 30 days+ at a clip. I reckon I'll be using it every 2 weeks. So perfect saw for me. So far.