Anyone have an 18' wide overhead door?

[DynoDave]

I currently have my garage plans drawn with a 16x8 door. A friend recomended going 17' or 18' wide instead. To make a long story short, I have an opportunity to go with an 18' wide (cheaper than a 17') for a grand total of about $120.00 more money (that's door and building mods).

It would seem like it's worth it to me. Seems like it would be a lot easier to get a car and a Suburban in and out of an 18' wide door than a 16'. But I was looking for some first hand experence.

 

[DIGGER_DAVE]

I currently have my garage plans drawn with a 16x8 door. A friend recomended going 17' or 18' wide instead. To make a long story short, I have an opportunity to go with an 18' wide (cheaper than a 17') for a grand total of about $120.00 more money (that's door and building mods).

It would seem like it's worth it to me. Seems like it would be a lot easier to get a car and a Suburban in and out of an 18' wide door than a 16'. But I was looking for some first hand experence.

Dave, the shop I drop by often has an 18' door; and he loves it! Like you say, just makes it a bit easier to manouver.

For $120.00 more for the door, the fact you haven't built the garage yet; and the fact that the door probably uses similar track** and mechanicals - I would say GO FOR IT!

** would check to see if the track needs to be heavier.

 

[FEF]

This depends on it's height. If it's under about 10' tall, you'll be OK.

If it's over about 10' tall, there may not be an opener that is UL complient.

 

[DynoDave]

Thanks guys. The door is 8' tall.

 

[nova65ss]

Thanks guys. The door is 8' tall.

Def do the 18 you won't regret it. A 17 is an odd size, so what you have to do is buy an 18 and have it cut down. That's why it's more expensive. Just make sure it has a strut on every section, usually they come with 3.

Jimmy

 

[OldCarGuy]

Two of my Seven garage doors are 18’x8’ high. The one is for my daily drivers,,, an Avalanche and Escalade. It makes for far more room around the cars and opening all the doors possible. Also makes putting cars away very easy compared to a 16' door. The 8’ height takes the worry out of driving in the garage when snow builds up in front of the door or carrying something on the roof rack.

The second 18x8’ door is in my working garage. With a two-post lift on one side, I can easily get a full size truck in the other. You’ll feel that the $120.00 was a good investment.

 

[krooser]

I built an attached 24X34 in 1976...I had an 18X8 overhead plus a 36" service door in the front and a 48" service door out back.

Big doors are good...

 

[astroracer]

I've had an 18 footer on my garage since '96 and have had some problems with it. This past winter the door opener started bending the top panel. I had to move one of the reinforcement channels to the top panel to give it more support. I would recommend putting a channel on the top panel from day one if you can...
I can get a pic if you want one...
Mark

 

[mleichtle]

Mines 18' x 8' steel, uninsulated, been there for 30 years now. I replaced the springs about 4 years ago, got the biggest ones I could find at the hardware store, Home Depots biggest spring is smaller. And a 1/2 hp craftsman chain drive opener, six years old now. Only problem is when its closed somethings not quite square.

 

[DynoDave]

Thanks guys. I appreciate the input.

I'll have to check with the delaer and make sure his 18'' door has straps.

Astroracer: Yes, if you have photos of that, I'd like to see it. Thanks.

 

[imported_banzaitoyota]

Suggestion:

When making your header, have some 3/8" plate cut to sandwich when making your header. I did that on a door in 1986 and it hasnt sagged a bit.

 

[DynoDave]

"When making your header, have some 3/8" plate cut to sandwich when making your header. I did that on a door in 1986 and it hasnt sagged a bit."

I understand the concept, but I'm not totally sure I follow you. Are you saying you put a single metal plate in the middle of the header that you made? Or that you clad the exterior of your header with steel on both sides? Did you drill it and bolt the header together? Was your building inspector OK with that?

I think the lumber company is quoting a laminated beam for both door openings, so I don't think I'm building the larger headers, just the small one above the service door. I'll have to go and check my quote.

 

[DIGGER_DAVE]

Steel plate in/on door header:

When the contractor built my shop, he only used 2 x 8 inch headers above the door. (16 foot door; and he cheated on code, they were SUPPOSED to be 2 x 12") It sagged in about 4 months.

To solve the problem; I had a piece of 3/8" steel plate cut, 16 feet long and 8" deep, jacked the center of the door opening (higher than the ends - about 2 1/2") and bolted the plate along side the existing header. After I "gingerly" lowered the jack; the header is now straight, and has been for 16 years.

I had a building inspector and an engineer check the solution out, and both gave it a "green light."

Oh yeah, the contractor went out of business just after building my shop; and last I heard, is living somewhere in the Camen Islands! (probably on some of the money he "sc*rewed" me out of!!)

 

[drbill]

Hey Dave my garage has a 18x8 insulated door. It has 3 12" laminated beams that span the opening. I don't think sagging will be a problem. It comes in handy for getting the cars in and out especially being that the garage is only 24' behind the house.
I have a couple of pictures of the door but neither one shows the middle of the door. If you want I can take some of it.

 

[imported_banzaitoyota]

I sandwiched the steel plate between the 2 header boards and bolted it together

 

[Ratdawg]

I have a 18'x10' Wayne Dalton Door with A Wayne Dalton opener on the side. It has worked good so far.

 

[Wile1Coyote]

Me too Dave 18' X 8' I have a bit of Sag but only after I started putting car puts in the attic up above. That reminds me I need to get up there and redistribute that weight. LOL

 

[DynoDave]

Thanks for all the input guys. I have officially added the 18x8 into the plans, next to the 9x8 single. There's virtually no wall left on the front of this garage, but I'll have good access when I'm done.

I asked about the straps, BTW. The 4 panel door I'm buying comes with 3, and they will add a 4th to the top panel if I want one.

 

[nova65ss]

Thanks for all the input guys. I have officially added the 18x8 into the plans, next to the 9x8 single. There's virtually no wall left on the front of this garage, but I'll have good access when I'm done.

I asked about the straps, BTW. The 4 panel door I'm buying comes with 3, and they will add a 4th to the top panel if I want one.

If you are getting an operator a strut on the top section is a must.

Jimmy

 

[DynoDave]

Thanks Jimmy. I don't have the budget for openers in the initial build, but I would like to have some eventually. I plan on having them add that strut while they are here doing the install. I'm spending a big chunk of money on that door, so a few extra bucks for 1 strut isn't going to break the bank.

 

[drbill]

The builder who put up my garage gave me the opener for free.
I know I paid for it somewhere in the estimate but he said it was free LOL

 

[JohnZ]

Both of my doors are 18' x 8' steel/foam/steel insulated sectionals, and the headers are factory-laminated beams; no sag, no problems, ordinary Lift-Master 1/2-hp openers, reinforcing channels on the bottom two sections and on the top section. My wife loves the extra width compared to the 16' doors we've always had before in previous homes - she's much more confident pulling in and out.

 

[DynoDave]

Thanks JohnZ. That's exactly what I want to hear. The 18 wide is now a part of the plans. The doors I'm looking at have 3 struts as well, and the plans call for a laminated beam.