Anyone have experience with Rustoleum Pro?

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Have been lurking on these boards for a while and I am considering making the leap to epoxy. Would like to start with a bay where I do not park any cars as a test area, before I epoxy the entire garage.

I find that Rustoleum does make a solvent based epoxy, that they do not distribute through big box stores. I can find them online at amazon.com:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KESBL6/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Does anyone have any experience with this product?
Would like all kinds of details if you have used this product.
How durable is it? How thick will the one coat be?
Is it easy to apply with the provided instructions?
How are the fumes? What is the ideal temperature for this coating etc?

 

[noweare]

You can use cement backer board to do your test and put that on your garage floor
and see how it wears. Why do you want use a solvent based epoxy?

 

[dcs Inc]

High build epoxies are normally solvent based. 100% solids solvent based epoxies should not have an odor. Water based epoxies are a low build, less abrasive and scratch resistant than their counterparts.

 

[elronin]

My first post. I've used it in my garage in South Florida. Had it for over 3 years It looked great I added a Clear coat over it. its the water based one no one sells rustoleum solvent based down here. Only two small spots pilled up, there small quarter size, that's probably my fault not cleaning it right before rolling it on. I work on it all the time, wife parks her car at night.

I've thrown stuff onto it chipped the concrete, I've welded all over it damaged the finish with hot metal. I will redo it in a couple of years, guess just sand scrub it a little and re role it. I' like it so far.

 

[smohr33]

I've had mine down for a couple months now. I did two coats, and clear on top. Waited 1 day between each coat, and 7 days to park on it. My slab is 56 years old, and I didn't even do a real ******** cleaning. Just vacuumed and acid etched, the floor still looked terrible before I layed the epoxy on.

It still looks like the day I rolled it on, but I'm only a few months in. I've had 2 cars parked on it every day, dropped tools and dragged furniture across it and it seems plenty tough. I would reccomend 2 coats though, the first coat was pretty much all eaten up by the concrete, and really acted like a primer. I'm also happy I did the clear, another layer of protection and added a nice shine. Mixing was easy, 1 to 1, and it didn't smell as bad as expected.

I would reccomend it thus far. Ask me again in a year and I hope to give the same answer

 

[zacker01]

cant tile it with a good porcilain tile? lol I did my floor in the kitchen and could not cut or drill that stuff with anything i had..i had to mark out the cuts and take them to lowes to have cut on their wet saw...lol useenough mastic under them and they shouldnt break for ***t!! at least thats my take... lol

 

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@smohr33: How soon after the first coat did you apply the second coat? And how much did you have to wait before applying the clear coat?

 

[A_Pmech]

Does anyone have any experience with this product?
Would like all kinds of details if you have used this product.
How durable is it? How thick will the one coat be?
Is it easy to apply with the provided instructions?
How are the fumes? What is the ideal temperature for this coating etc?

I installed it in my 1,000 SF machine shop.

I ended up going two coats. I think that worked out to 25-35 thousandths coating thickness. Durability is relative. It will scratch and if you hit it hard enough to compress the concrete underneath it will chip up in that area. I just wanted something to keep the floor bright and easy to clean. It exceeds those requirements nicely.

It isn't difficult to apply, but you need to work fast and keep a wet edge.

I coated mine in the middle of winter using a torpedo heater for heat. It worked fine.

 

[smohr33]

@smohr33: How soon after the first coat did you apply the second coat? And how much did you have to wait before applying the clear coat?

I waited around 24hrs between coats. Did the first coat on a Saturday afternoon, 2nd coat Sunday afternoon, and Clear on Monday afternoon. Worked out well time wise. Threw the flakes in the 2nd coat.

It was warm when I did it (80-90 during the day, 70's at night), had no rain, and relatively low humidity. Probably the best conditions I could have asked for.

Here are a before and after of the floor. As you can see it really looked like hell before. Still looks just like the after picture today.

 

[OldNeons]

We used the industrial grade rust oleum epoxy in my brothers 1300 ft garage. New house, aged 30+ days, full grind, primer,colored epoxy basecoat with random chips (TOSS them underhanded as high as you can so they flutter down like snowflakes), and an epoxy clear topcoat with gator grip anti skid. Overall, happy with results except for chip resistance (drop a hand tool and paint chips- not all the way down to concrete). Also too slick when wet. Doing my dads new shop this week and doing full chip with urethane base and 2 coats of urethane clear....... Hoping for a much more durable work surface.
Good luck

 

[hardhat]

We used the industrial grade rust oleum epoxy in my brothers 1300 ft garage. New house, aged 30+ days, full grind, primer,colored epoxy basecoat with random chips (TOSS them underhanded as high as you can so they flutter down like snowflakes), and an epoxy clear topcoat with gator grip anti skid. Overall, happy with results except for chip resistance (drop a hand tool and paint chips- not all the way down to concrete). Also too slick when wet. Doing my dads new shop this week and doing full chip with urethane base and 2 coats of urethane clear....... Hoping for a much more durable work surface.
Good luck

Urethane base, please explain. What products are you using?

 

[OldNeons]

We are using rhino linings products, which I understand is the old concrete solutions they bought? Both the color tinted base coat and clear topcoat are Their HP urethane products.

Buyrhino.com/chemicals/Urethanes.html

Let me know if you have other questions

 

[hardhat]

Cool, I hope it works well . Post some pics if you can.

 

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Thanks to all who replied. I am going to stick with the Rust-oleum Pro product.

 

[Garage Flooring]

I have been digging into this for a while. Why... Well.. I once made the mistake of selling the Quikrete product.

At $100 a "Kit" based on the lower end of coverage, you are paying .33 cents a square foot for base coverage only. I Personally would think that a top coat needs to be done.

http://www.homedepot.com/Paint-Inte...Id=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051#.UBq936PAHJ8

Now your up to .66 cents a square foot for a product that if we are being honest about it has little support behind it. I see legacy and others with products here pretty darn close to the total price for an epoxy system that is 100% solids.

Now obviously it would be profitable for me to say and you could make the jump to one of our products for.... NO. Not in this case. BUT I do think a very good argument can be made for jumping up to one of the quality, 100% solids products sold and supported by forum members at not a whole lot more money.

On a side note here... I know a lot of people sell it but I have never understood a flake system with no top coat.

I know this is one of those things that is simply a matter of opinion, but now you have mine

 

[[email protected]]

@Justin: Thanks for chiming in. The Legacy product does not seem to be that great of a stretch, budget wise.

What are the advantages of 100% solids over a solvent based epoxy.
Am I getting lower pot life for lower fumes?
Do 100% solids require a lower temperature for application. I live in an area where temperatures rarely dip below 90degrees.
Can a beginner/DIYer successfully apply a 100% solids product, or is it really meant for professionals?

 

[Garage Flooring]

@Justin: Thanks for chiming in. The Legacy product does not seem to be that great of a stretch, budget wise.

What are the advantages of 100% solids over a solvent based epoxy.
Am I getting lower pot life for lower fumes?
Do 100% solids require a lower temperature for application. I live in an area where temperatures rarely dip below 90degrees.
Can a beginner/DIYer successfully apply a 100% solids product, or is it really meant for professionals?

Let me PM Legacy and ask him to reply... I try not to answer questions about other peoples product.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Guys, we not only sell these products to you but we install them everyday.
Where? Supermarkets, pharma labs, restaurants, home garages etc...

Anything less than 100% solids is considered primer in our industry.
100% solids is typically thicker, more impact resistant and more concealing.

The "epoxy" you buy at the home center is film forming like paint, will not penetrate and will be harmed by common garage chemicals (hot tire culprits too)

The main reason they are so weak is the poor molecular lock. Water based epoxies and even some solvent based products have a loose molecular lock.

100% solids is much better and urethane are the best, naturally the lock is so tight they are extremely chemical and abrasion resistant.

Hope this helps.

 

[noweare]

Put another way....say you purchase a product that is 50% solids.
Well you only get to keep 1/2 of what you put down, the rest evaporates.
Solvent based epoxies are usually used as primers because the solvent thins
the epoxy out so that it penetrate and bonds with the concrete.

 

[[email protected]]

@noweare and @scotty: Not sure that I am any more comfortable about using 100% solids. You seem to be hinting that the adhesion to the concrete will be poorer for 100% solids, unless I use some kind of primer. You also do seem to be hinting that 100% solids are best left to the pros.

 

[Garage Flooring]

Actually they are saying just the opposite. 100% solids are the way to go if you are going to use an epoxy.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Primer is recommended for all coatings. Use a 100% solids without primer and risk bubbling and other anomalies. It is not just for the pros. Pros don't buy DIY kits, they buy 3 gal. and 15 gal. packaging in pallet lots.

 

[dcs Inc]

150 gallon kits are what I sell to the big boys.

 

[[email protected]]

@Scotty: The DIY kit does not contain a primer from what I can tell. The information online does recommend a urethane top coat. Do I need to order three things for a successful epoxy installation: A primer, epoxy from the DIY kit and a urethane top coat?

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

I would.

Gene, the fifty gallon drums of epoxy have been replaced by fifty gallon drums of densifier. Polishing is the new kid in town here on the east coast.

 

[dcs Inc]

It's been here for awhile. The problem is everybody is suddenly a polish guy. At the world of concrete the last 4 or 5 years everybody was selling the wiz bang polishers. With promises of monster projects, guys shelled out big bucks to get into it to only find the numbers have been driven down by the flood of "polishers".

A lot of the Industrial industry still wants a topical, at least here in the Midwest. They are not interested in the constant up keep. I do smaller 20k and less polishing projects and sub out larger projects. I have no interest in spending a quarter mil "getting into to larger market" when the numbers are going way south.

Some of my buddies have been in your area doing large polishing projects.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

It's funny. We get at least 2-3 inquiries a week regarding what sealer should be used for a polished floor. All that money per square and they want to coat it.

 

[dandan111]

Mano get the rustoleum pro kit. You will be happy. I left mine flat no gloss top coat and it's kind of dull in spots. I like it without the gloss it's not slick. To make it more of a show area the top coat would be good.

 

[[email protected]]

@dandan111: Thanks. That's what I am inclined to do. The costs of the three layers definitely add up. (the $100 for the test area that I was going to do, suddenly becomes $500).

 

[dandan111]

One good coat and the clear may be enough,make sure and clean greese spots with degreeser and acid after.

 

[drinkmoresake]

I put down the Rustoleum Pro about 2 months ago and it looks great! Prep, prep, prep, prep, and then prep some more.
I put down 2 coats of the epoxy color and then followed it up with 2 coats of the Rustoleum Premium clear. Added Shark Grip into the final coat and no issues with slipping even when wet. It has been pretty damn hot in VA this summer and even on the 100+ degree days drove the cars straight into the garage when coming home from work...no hot tire p/u issues so far. Floor seems very tough and looks great! Oh, did I mention that you need to prep??

 

[bpk]

The pro grade Rustoleum is on sale at menards here in Lincoln for 17% off until Aug 26, about $80/kit

 

[Carnut12]

Have been lurking on these boards for a while and I am considering making the leap to epoxy. Would like to start with a bay where I do not park any cars as a test area, before I epoxy the entire garage.

I find that Rustoleum does make a solvent based epoxy, that they do not distribute through big box stores. I can find them online at amazon.com:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KESBL6/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Does anyone have any experience with this product?
Would like all kinds of details if you have used this product.
How durable is it? How thick will the one coat be?
Is it easy to apply with the provided instructions?
How are the fumes? What is the ideal temperature for this coating etc?

I used this in my last Garage (Lived there 3 years), when I moved I swept it and mopped a couple spots, it looked as good as the day I put it down. I had no top coat, did not need one from what I could tell. I loved that floor, I was able to do it before I moved in. Now I am reluctant because I already live in my house and taking everything out for a few days is not practical. I will probably try the Racedeck this time, but again I absolutely had no issues at all with the Rustoleum Pro.

I only did one coat, it was plenty thick.

 

[Carnut12]

Just to add I put on the chips and they seap in the paint, you do not need a Top Coat over them either in my experience, none of them moved, they were built into the paint after it dried.

Funny how everyone that says not to buy it never tried it. Everyone that has used it loves it. I would bet if someone doesn't like it, it is due to prep.

 

[[email protected]]

Thanks @bpk and @Carnut12. Nearest Menards is 500 miles away. Over here none of the big box or small box (paint stores) or industrial suppliers stock the solvent based Rustoleum products.

 

[Carnut12]

Good luck, do NOT buy any of the latex ****.

I still think I am going to go with Racedeck, can take it with you and I like the unique designs you can do.

 

[bpk]

Is manoj5 going with Rust pro? My plans are for Labor weekend and am weighing all options. Lowes has Epoxycoat for $194 for 500 sq ft, Menards has Rust Pro for $83 for 300-400 sq ft on sale until Aug 26, so continued feedback and finished pictures until then appreciated

 

[drinkmoresake]

I spoke with the folks at Rustoleum before purchasing the Pro. They said that in reality the kit will cover more like 250~300 sq ft. Based on this I purchased 2 kits for each coat I applied. Really glad I did this because I found that you need at LEAST 1 1/2 kits for 400 sq ft (my garage is about 420). Also, not sure if you are considering 1 or 2 coats but in my experience 1 coat just won't look good.

 

[Garage Flooring]

I spoke with the folks at Rustoleum before purchasing the Pro. They said that in reality the kit will cover more like 250~300 sq ft. Based on this I purchased 2 kits for each coat I applied. Really glad I did this because I found that you need at LEAST 1 1/2 kits for 400 sq ft (my garage is about 420). Also, not sure if you are considering 1 or 2 coats but in my experience 1 coat just won't look good.

That is one thing that drives me nuts with coatings. If you are going to put coverages out there, be real. Often, our price and other people's price who try and be more honest about coverage looks higher PSF than it really is

 

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Finally some pictures of the Rustoleum Pro (tan) I put down earlier in September.