toplessHO
Well-known member
would like to exchange info
anyone restore stainless auto trim?
- Thread starter toplessHO
- Start date
Its not auto trim but it is stainless, I restored my 1967 triumph front and rear fenders. They were bent, cracked, dented and just a mess. I made a buck out of oak and with a lot of easy tapping with a plastic hammer and home made plastic wedge's and a shot bag I managed to take the dents out. Then I sanded them with 220, 500,600,1000 then I buffed them with my pedestal buffer, from red to white. It takes super patience and if you get a little riled put it down. The best thing I did was make the oak buck with the same form as the fender that way I had a good form to get the fender back to its shape. Do not hit the stainless to hard, it stretches really easy and then you will have a mess. You can use a cut up plastic squeegee taped to the part so when you tap it will not dent or stretch the part. If it stretches I used a stud gun with a nose in it for that, heat the area easy and spray it with water from a bottle, keep it localized to the area that you want to shrink, you can also use a pencil torch but be careful. The cracked area I had stainless welded from a friend of mine. I ground down the weld then slowly hammered the fender with a small curved body hammer on another oak buck then sand sand sand and polish.
It takes a lot of time and don't rush think about each strike. plastic hammers, thick leather belts, plastic squeegees all are your friends.
It takes a lot of time and don't rush think about each strike. plastic hammers, thick leather belts, plastic squeegees all are your friends.
Ive done quite a bit over the years and made some pretty wadded up pieces look like new on the outside(backside looked like *** tho). But nothing on as large a scale as you have.
Ive found that for those tight areas chisels,wonder bars,leaf springs all work to redo creases. A good file is also a valuable friend for making things smooth again.
A trick I learned for small trim is to melt wheel weights and let it puddle up on the backside
in a good area,tap it past the dinged up area and it will push the dent out. heat gently when done and the lead will fall out.Be careful on heat and shrinking I ve had some pieces crack when doing this.
Ive found that for those tight areas chisels,wonder bars,leaf springs all work to redo creases. A good file is also a valuable friend for making things smooth again.
A trick I learned for small trim is to melt wheel weights and let it puddle up on the backside
in a good area,tap it past the dinged up area and it will push the dent out. heat gently when done and the lead will fall out.Be careful on heat and shrinking I ve had some pieces crack when doing this.
rsanter
Well-known member
You have to by or make a plastic hammer and a plastic dolly. Do not work metal on metal or you will mess that stuff up ( unless you are some super expert)
Buy some raw block HDPE on eBay and make your own as they are expensive for bought ones
Bob
Buy some raw block HDPE on eBay and make your own as they are expensive for bought ones
Bob
you can use metal if you are very calculated.
I have several dull scratchawls,punches etc I use to push with rather than bang them out
or on some stubborn stuff the old martin body hammers get used.
Ive got a big chunk of the white detrin (sp) I may fab some tools out of
I have several dull scratchawls,punches etc I use to push with rather than bang them out
or on some stubborn stuff the old martin body hammers get used.
Ive got a big chunk of the white detrin (sp) I may fab some tools out of
Hammer1963
Well-known member
I use to many methods to list, but I do highly recommend investing in hard maple, HDPE, Textalite, spring steel and brass for custom made backing blocks, punches and rubbing tools. I use multiple mallets and hammers depending upon each need. When it comes to sanding, I start with 220 and jump 100 points in grit through 800 and then go to 1000, 1500, 2000 and 2500. Polishing is more easier by using this method. Polishing methods vary by shape and size
larry4406
Well-known member
This will help get you started. He has a series.
another tip I use is a drop or 2 of WD40 on the sandpaper
to keep it wet when hand sanding. You can also see any imperfections
as the fluid turns dark grey and will stay in any pits or scratches.
When dry sanding you risk bigger scratches because of the stainless clogging
the paper .
to keep it wet when hand sanding. You can also see any imperfections
as the fluid turns dark grey and will stay in any pits or scratches.
When dry sanding you risk bigger scratches because of the stainless clogging
the paper .
HMCFab9
Well-known member
I've done some stainless & I have both the CP D.A. sander & the polisher that you have pictured...... but I still send stuff out to get done occasionally.
The trim on the '57 in my pic was 6 grand to have a trim shop polish..... but Damn it looked nice!
The trim on the '57 in my pic was 6 grand to have a trim shop polish..... but Damn it looked nice!
ha about 10 years ago a good friend restored a full trim set for a 56 BelAir and took it to the swap meet and immediately sold it for $250.
He was so happy it sold that quick. I told him he was an idiot that he could have gotten at least $600.
$6K for just the trim work?