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Anyone see any issues with wiring?

NakeDiesel

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Sep 6, 2007
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oklahoma
Started my wiring today, does anyone see any issues with it?

Breaker Box
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Disconnect for Compressor
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Compressor
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Outlets
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shamrock12

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Dec 26, 2007
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South Dakota
It might help if you fill in your profile where you are located. I don't believe the large yellow conductor should be used as a ground. At least not here in the United States.
 
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NakeDiesel

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I'm in Oklahoma. I'm not worried about the service wire, it's been installed for a couple of months. It's 4/0 4/0 4/0 2/0 direct burial aluminum bought from Greybar.
 
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NakeDiesel

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oklahoma
I just updated it, didn't realize that it wasn't in there. No I don't live in town or require any inspections.
 

Charles (in GA)

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50 mi south of Atlanta
It might help if you fill in your profile where you are located. I don't believe the large yellow conductor should be used as a ground. At least not here in the United States.

True, NEC 250.119 only allows for Green to be used for marking conductors larger than 6 AWG as a ground.

Neutral bar, very bottom, cannot see it well, but looks like two white neutrals may be under the bottom most screw. They are quite tight together and the screw head is protruding more, indicating more wire under the screw. On neutrals, only one wire is allowed per screw. On grounds, generally, the panel instructions will allow two wires under one screw. Look at the torque chart on the inside of the door or elsewhere on the panel.

This service entrance wire is not by chance marked URD is it? URD is quite frequently found with a yellow ground. In any case, if it is URD, it is not allowed to enter the building, as it does not have a proper fire resistant insulation. URD is frequently used by power companies for services and such, but only to the meter, as this would be outside the building. URD needs to be spliced, outside the building, to something that is acceptable to enter the building.

The four square receptacle box, cannot make out for sure how many white, red and black wires either pass thru, or enter the box (not concerned with jumpers that stay inside the box) but it looks like eight, plus the two receptacles and all greens counted as one, probably exceed the fill limits for a shallow 4x4 box and that cover.

No GFCI breakers, nor receptacles. Required for grade level rooms and locations in a non-residence.

Edit: the fitting in the bottom left of the panel board is not being used correctly, It appears you have used a conduit fitting to poke thru from the inside of the panel to the 4x4 receptacle box immediately below the panel. The wires can easily chafe on the edges of the conduit fitting. They make bushings for this purpose, known as a "conduit ******" which installed with a stamped nut on the other side, allow for the tight joining of boxes. Another option would have been to use a offset ******.

Additional edit: Main panel, right side, middle of the neutral bar, between the two service cables is a green screw, which is attaching a solid copper bonding jumper from the neutral bar to the back of the panel housing, You need to REMOVE this jumper entirely from the neutral bar, and reinstall the green screw, as it is making the ground for the bonding strap that runs back across the panel to the ground bar. The small copper piece is what needs to be removed.

You do not say whether this panel is on its own meter, or if it is supplied from another panel, such as in a house. If this is supplied from a meter, and there is NO OTHER disconnect between the meter and this panel, the copper jumper should remain in place, if there is another disconnect before this panel, or if this panel is supplied from another panel, then the copper jumper should be removed from the neutral bar.

Charles

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rockwithjason

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Jan 8, 2006
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Las Vegas
it looks like you wrapped stranded wire around ground screws in a few places. use a crimp lug instead. all ground screws must have a green finish, sheet metal screws and washers won't cut it.
 
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NakeDiesel

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oklahoma
It's being supplied by a 200 amp outside breaker box at the pole, I have one for the shop and one for the house off of a 400 amp meter box.

Yes, I need to get crimp on connectors, I thought I had bought some but didn't and I'm not driving 2 hours to pick some up this weekend. Monday when I'm in town, I am planned on picking some up and fixing the grounds on the outlets. They are using green screws. All power to the shop is shut off at the pole presently while I'm working on the electric.

The 4x4 boxes are deep boxes and only have 3 hots and 3 neutrals going thorough/into the first 3 boxes.

The box at the bottom of the panel will be removed once I get my other outlets installed. It was safer than the 400' of extension cords I was running out of the house to the shop as two 200' runs to have two outlets while getting the interior steel up.

There won't be any GFCI breakers installed in the panel or outlets in the shop. There will be two GFCI outlets installed for the outside outlets as well as for the bathroom and in the commercial kitchen when I get around to finishing it up.

I didn't install the panel or double the neutral wires, an electrician did when he installed the panel and put that outlet in for me till I could get all the conduit run in the shop for the outlets. I'll remove the

This is a farm shop/barn.
 

stonesfan68

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Apr 19, 2012
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Houston, TX
There won't be any GFCI breakers installed in the panel or outlets in the shop. There will be two GFCI outlets installed for the outside outlets as well as for the bathroom and in the commercial kitchen when I get around to finishing it up.

This is a farm shop/barn.

You need to install a GFCI device (breaker or outlet) for those shop receptacles. It is a $15-20 device that can potentially save your life.
 

mbatarga

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Sep 14, 2005
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892
Location
GA
I would have thought someone would mention to use pigtails for the outlets.
 
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