read a bunch on the net about nickel plating. want to try some small parts . anyone have any pointers , success stories, horror stories to share?
Thanks
Thanks
Last edited:
Anyone successfully nickel plate anything?
- Thread starter The Cobbler
- Start date
Half-fast eddie
Well-known member
Going to follow this.
kyrbz
Well-known member
I use Caswell's electroless nickel plating kits. The chemicals are a little pricey, but I like that I can basically plate a part and install it in around 1/2 an hour. I also like not worrying about small parts getting lost at the plater.
Shiftless
Well-known member
We now have a whole convoy of guys following this thread. I’ve been thinking about nickel plating a Wilton 2 inch “baby bullet” vise. I suppose I should start with something smaller to get a feel for how it works. I have done electrolysis rust removal.
kyrbz
Well-known member
That’s a bummer. The electroless kits don’t require a power source and I’m guessing they might be a little easier to use. I’ve never had a problem with the electroless kit other than pushing depleted chemicals too far which just requires mixing up a fresh batch of chemicals. I bead blast all my parts and clean them with a degreaser before plating. After cleaning, I always handle the parts with nitrile gloves to avoid any greasy finger prints or contaminates
Just got an email from Caswell with a new nickel plating system.
Caswell One-Plate® 1 Electroless Nickel is truly a revolution for small scale Electroless Nickel plating. No more mixing of multiple chemicals, simpler one solution additions, lower consumption rate of chemicals, cheaper and easier overall operation.
Caswell One-Plate® 1 uses ONE simple chemical for solution makeup and replenishment. Simply mix the required amount of concentrate and add distilled water. Heat to 185 deg F and start plating.
https://caswellplating.com/one-plate-1-electroless-nickel-kit/
Don't know anything about this but something this simply would be a big help with the rebuild/restoration stuff I do.
Kevin
Caswell One-Plate® 1 Electroless Nickel is truly a revolution for small scale Electroless Nickel plating. No more mixing of multiple chemicals, simpler one solution additions, lower consumption rate of chemicals, cheaper and easier overall operation.
Caswell One-Plate® 1 uses ONE simple chemical for solution makeup and replenishment. Simply mix the required amount of concentrate and add distilled water. Heat to 185 deg F and start plating.
https://caswellplating.com/one-plate-1-electroless-nickel-kit/
Don't know anything about this but something this simply would be a big help with the rebuild/restoration stuff I do.
Kevin
kyrbz
Well-known member
I’ll have to look into this as soon as I use up the chemicals I have. I started nickel plating many years ago, and back then, Caswell’s instructions were complicated and confusing in regards to calculating surface area of parts and ratios and amount of chemicals used. That being said, the process seemed fairly forgiving. I gave up calculating surface areas and such and have had good results just wing dinging it until solution is depleted. The old electroless kits used 3 chemicals. 2 were mixed together for the main plating solution and a third was used as a replenisher. I might add, as you mentioned, using distilled water is important
kyrbz
Well-known member
Finding the right container to plate parts can be challenging. I always want to use as little chemicals as possible, so ideally the container is close to the size of the parts you’re plating. The Caswell kit uses a heater that is similar to an aquarium heater, so that will also take up space in your container. I’ve also used a hot plate with Pyrex. Usually with the the aquarium style heater I use plastic or glass containers. I think the ideal containers would be to go to a restaurant supply store and buy the plastic tubs that are used in buffet’s. It’s a high temp plastic container that comes in all shapes and sizes.
kyrbz
Well-known member
Caswell was what I used 20yrs ago and checked the site about a year ago... I was rather shocked by the recent prices. And I didn't even get to the shipping part of some hazardous chems.I use Caswell's electroless nickel plating kits. The chemicals are a little pricey, but I like that I can basically plate a part and install it in around 1/2 an hour. I also like not worrying about small parts getting lost at the plater.
Some of those parts look familiar
Half-fast eddie
Well-known member
Well that came out nice.
vrinner
Well-known member
I'm trying for the zinc chromate look on some parts and I've been attempting this for about a month based on various videos and so far no luck. I just purchased some of the Caswell zinc brightener and a couple of their zinc plates hoping that will help the process...oh...and a couple of fish tank heaters from Amazon. Trying to totally DIY it I probably could have just bought one of their kits and been done.
Following this thread for sure.
Following this thread for sure.
OP
the parts I wanted to plate I just replaced because too much going on right now . and I found replacements at a reasonable cost. I will have to try it out on another project sometime
bmw57isetta
Well-known member
Are those some Isetta parts I see in the mix?I use Caswell's electroless nickel plating kits. The chemicals are a little pricey, but I like that I can basically plate a part and install it in around 1/2 an hour. I also like not worrying about small parts getting lost at the plater.
kyrbz
Well-known member
Absolutely
bmw57isetta
Well-known member
Is this Burgess by any chance?Absolutely
kyrbz
Well-known member
MileHighRover
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 13, 2018
- Messages
- 1,131
This is an excellent video on plating at home. And if you like old Land Rovers, his channel is pretty awesome. And he's friggin' hilarious, too.
mark-NJ
Well-known member
I, too, have been contemplating some DIY nickel plating, and I have a question that I can't seem to find an answer to:
All of the youtube videos show the use of vinegar (acetic acid), and everyone seems to be using the 5% stuff found in the supermarket. But 30% can be found in the cleaning supply isle at Lowes, HD, etc.
Seems to me a stronger acid will yield better results, but I can't find any videos that comment specifically on the percentages...
Does "more" = better / faster? Or does "more" just = 'more'? Anyone know?
(Sure wish my dad was still with us....he spent 50 years in the metal finishing business & knew ALL this stuff off the top of his head...)
All of the youtube videos show the use of vinegar (acetic acid), and everyone seems to be using the 5% stuff found in the supermarket. But 30% can be found in the cleaning supply isle at Lowes, HD, etc.
Seems to me a stronger acid will yield better results, but I can't find any videos that comment specifically on the percentages...
Does "more" = better / faster? Or does "more" just = 'more'? Anyone know?
(Sure wish my dad was still with us....he spent 50 years in the metal finishing business & knew ALL this stuff off the top of his head...)
@The Cobbler any luck on methods you’ve tried yet?
mark-NJ
Well-known member
I'm not @The Cobbler , but I made up a Nickel Acetate solution (with the 30% acetic acid), let it turn a nice dark green, which took a while. Then I nickel plated some clean steel pieces that I fabricated. It worked amazingly well. There's no reason it shouldn't have, but I was surprised at the results all the same.
Power supply was the 3.3V output on an old computer power supply that I re-purposed; Ni electrodes were bought off Amazon. I cut them into narrower strips with snips...they were a ***** to cut! That's some hard stuff!
- My dad (50 years in the metal finishing business) would have been proud.
- My daughter (chemistry PhD candidate) was more like "There goes dad again, doing crazy garage chemistry $hit....~sigh~"
Power supply was the 3.3V output on an old computer power supply that I re-purposed; Ni electrodes were bought off Amazon. I cut them into narrower strips with snips...they were a ***** to cut! That's some hard stuff!
- My dad (50 years in the metal finishing business) would have been proud.
- My daughter (chemistry PhD candidate) was more like "There goes dad again, doing crazy garage chemistry $hit....~sigh~"
OP
I have honestly got sidetracked & put this project on the back burners.
pelletman
Well-known member
I have done some antique bicycle parts years ago. Lots of stuff, got pretty good results with Caswell electro stuff, the key is in the prep and you can spend ALL KINDS of money setting yourself up. Grinding and polishing is messy business
MileHighRover
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 13, 2018
- Messages
- 1,131
If you're wanting to do this at home, watch the video I posted (post 24). No big, expensive setup required. Geoffrey covers everything you'll need to know to get started.
bluedog225
Well-known member
Great. Thanks
I made an account just so I could share this. It's an excel sheet credits calculator I made for the Caswell High Phosphorus EN chemistry. Hope you can get some use out of it. Feel free to modify or make it your own. Best of luck!
drive.google.com
EN Plating Calculator.xlsm
drive.google.com
softailgarage
Well-known member
I was a gold plater for many years in Space & Defense (Hughes Aircraft, Ceradyne/3M). Gold plating required a nickel base, so lots of both electrolytical and electroless nickel plating experience. If you're going to go with electrolytic, be prepared, it will cost a small fortune and a big area for the line, acid washes, DI water washes, tanks, rectifiers, anode chips, anode bags, heaters, dryers, etc.
For at home plating go with electroless. I've done it with a large beaker on a hot plate. There are several tricks to know though. Your biggest enemy is contamination, you want to keep that area as clean as possible and keep the solution covered when not in use. Do NOT use anything other than DI water, tap water will contaminate and turn the solution bad in a heartbeat. Heat and the right pH is the trick, along with keeping the solution moving. Its the heat and movement that keeps the molecules active, creating the electro current that adheres the nickel to the metal, make sure that bath is "gassing" (hydrogen) while the part is in. Electrolytic plating you can immerse the part and walk away because you have a controlled current active. Electroless, the current is created by the movement of the solution, so either stir or I recommend the use of "stirrers". Stirrers are small (sizes vary) ceramic coated, capsule shaped magnets that sit on the bottom of the beaker. The hot plate has a spinning piece under the plate that attracts and keeps the stirrer spinning (so obviously a specific hot plate is required).
Yes, chemicals can get costly, but I would go with plating chemicals as opposed to vinegar or other home remedies, even though they can work, it keeps contamination down. Make sure the part is rust free and oil free. Use an acid dip and DI water rinse before plating and use rubber or latex gloves to protect your hands and prevent skin oil from getting on the part, for that matter, eye protection too.
The difference between a bad plate and good plate. If you have bubbles or flaking of any kind, its poor adhesion, which is usually the result of not enough heat, movement or a contaminated bath. If the part looks good, after its dry, take a piece of masking tape, press it on the part and pull it off. You will be surprised that even though the adhesion looks good, its in fact bad.
You probably won't get it right the first few times, its a science and easy to mess up, but keep trying, experimentation is part of the learning process.
For at home plating go with electroless. I've done it with a large beaker on a hot plate. There are several tricks to know though. Your biggest enemy is contamination, you want to keep that area as clean as possible and keep the solution covered when not in use. Do NOT use anything other than DI water, tap water will contaminate and turn the solution bad in a heartbeat. Heat and the right pH is the trick, along with keeping the solution moving. Its the heat and movement that keeps the molecules active, creating the electro current that adheres the nickel to the metal, make sure that bath is "gassing" (hydrogen) while the part is in. Electrolytic plating you can immerse the part and walk away because you have a controlled current active. Electroless, the current is created by the movement of the solution, so either stir or I recommend the use of "stirrers". Stirrers are small (sizes vary) ceramic coated, capsule shaped magnets that sit on the bottom of the beaker. The hot plate has a spinning piece under the plate that attracts and keeps the stirrer spinning (so obviously a specific hot plate is required).
Yes, chemicals can get costly, but I would go with plating chemicals as opposed to vinegar or other home remedies, even though they can work, it keeps contamination down. Make sure the part is rust free and oil free. Use an acid dip and DI water rinse before plating and use rubber or latex gloves to protect your hands and prevent skin oil from getting on the part, for that matter, eye protection too.
The difference between a bad plate and good plate. If you have bubbles or flaking of any kind, its poor adhesion, which is usually the result of not enough heat, movement or a contaminated bath. If the part looks good, after its dry, take a piece of masking tape, press it on the part and pull it off. You will be surprised that even though the adhesion looks good, its in fact bad.
You probably won't get it right the first few times, its a science and easy to mess up, but keep trying, experimentation is part of the learning process.
Hello guys . I saw this post decided to add my opinion on the Caswell kits .
I’ve been plating with their kits successfully for a few years . They work well on most metals.
However , the biggest issue your going to have is when you start plating die cast zinc (pot metal parts) .
For me everything was perfect up until the nickel stage specifically with pot metal.
Then I ran into an issue with black streaks , slow plating , dull spots, rough plating on hcd areas that were impossible to polish off without going into the copper , couldn’t fix the issue at all with dummy plating or filtering.
I believe the issue also lies with their brightener system , I tried all the temperatures out there and amp combinations . Some suggested not to go over 100 Fahrenheit and some said that’s too low. In my situation it plated bright at room temperature with steel , brass and 10 % of other metals . But with pot metal whether it was 120 f or 100 f or room temperature always always ! Had to polish the newly plated part which I shouldn’t need to!
The brightener system in my opinion is wrong and creates a grainy appearance which need post plate polish or fix , which not all the time works . And you cannot plate for 20 minutes and polish and clean it and put it back in the bath for a smoother look . That’s not how it should be done . Exterior pot meta pieces need at least 45 mins of nickel layer in one go .
Every situation is different but Bare in mind textbooks tell you the procedures in general to fix the issue but with the bright nickel Caswell kit it won’t work. If you do pot metal be prepared to fail with this kit 90% of the time unless your finished material is polished copper it’s fine.
I’ve been plating with their kits successfully for a few years . They work well on most metals.
However , the biggest issue your going to have is when you start plating die cast zinc (pot metal parts) .
For me everything was perfect up until the nickel stage specifically with pot metal.
Then I ran into an issue with black streaks , slow plating , dull spots, rough plating on hcd areas that were impossible to polish off without going into the copper , couldn’t fix the issue at all with dummy plating or filtering.
I believe the issue also lies with their brightener system , I tried all the temperatures out there and amp combinations . Some suggested not to go over 100 Fahrenheit and some said that’s too low. In my situation it plated bright at room temperature with steel , brass and 10 % of other metals . But with pot metal whether it was 120 f or 100 f or room temperature always always ! Had to polish the newly plated part which I shouldn’t need to!
The brightener system in my opinion is wrong and creates a grainy appearance which need post plate polish or fix , which not all the time works . And you cannot plate for 20 minutes and polish and clean it and put it back in the bath for a smoother look . That’s not how it should be done . Exterior pot meta pieces need at least 45 mins of nickel layer in one go .
Every situation is different but Bare in mind textbooks tell you the procedures in general to fix the issue but with the bright nickel Caswell kit it won’t work. If you do pot metal be prepared to fail with this kit 90% of the time unless your finished material is polished copper it’s fine.
Last edited:
rustynutts
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2009
- Messages
- 54
David1303, did you plate directly to the pot metal or copper plate the pot metal first?
I've been plating with Caswell electroless plating for years and never had a problem. A few months back I ran out of Part B and went to the Caswell site to order more. Turned out they no longer sell it, which ***** since I still have a lot of Part A. I called and was told they no longer can get the chemical and that they now have a one part solution. With no other option, I purchased the one part. Well, after numerous attempts I can tell you this stuff is horrible. With the old solution I could lower something into the solution and watch it immediately start to plate. With this new solution, I've literally had it in the solution for 10-15 minutes and still have little to no plating taking place. I'm plating small brass hardware - nuts, bolts, washers, etc. All the same parts as before. My prep procedure is the same. I do everything exactly the same way but the results are incredibly inconsistent, and often they come out with a bad finish. Worse, I sometimes get a build-up on nuts which prevents them from threading onto a bolt unless I chase them first, which is unacceptable. I'm incredibly disappointed and frustrated. It would have been nice if they had given their customers some notice before they pulled the product. So now I have a whole bottle of Part A which I can't do anything with, and a bottle of One Part solution that is borderline useless.
That looks pretty damn nice, you did a good job on those parts.I use Caswell's electroless nickel plating kits. The chemicals are a little pricey, but I like that I can basically plate a part and install it in around 1/2 an hour. I also like not worrying about small parts getting lost at the plater.
Beerhippie
Well-known member
Brass, steel and cast iron. Ironically, I kinda' winged it for that project--variable power supply, nickel acetate, nickel anodes and not much else. Then I bought the Caswells guide to plating ($30) and now my plating *****. Gotta go back to wingin' it....
Last edited: