Anyone use 4 ply post for pole barn?

[psu927]

Building a self-designed 40X64 with 14' ceilings ( fully enclosed, post embedded 3' in ground, 8' O.C., trusses 4'O.C.

Want to be sure 3 ply 2x6 is more than sufficient for my build? Or with the 14' ceilings, are guys going to 4 ply?

 

[RivennHewn]

I see the need for an engineer.

 

[psu927]

I see the need for an engineer.

just want to see what guys have done from previous experience

 

[KenC]

I think it will depend on lumber grade/species and pole spacing. JMHO, the 3' embedment is too shallow. Time for an engineer. If it were me, I'd draw up a proposed rough sketch and spec sheet then contact a engineer for consultation before committing to a full design cost.

 

[psu927]

Pole barns are rarely engineered, or required to be. this is a question mainly for guys that have built, or been around a pole barn that has been built similar to what I am building. I know what is required based on other buildings in my area. But I have this question because they were built using 6X6's. Not laminated post's.

My post embedment will be more than enough. Especially considering the concrete slab will be around each post. this building could stand on top of the ground once the metal is on and bracing is done.

 

[swaterbenny]

40'x56'x14'

3 ply 2x6, bought as a "kit" from lumberyard, and passed inspection.

 

[ZRX61]

Pole barns are rarely engineered, or required to be. this is a question mainly for guys that have built, or been around a pole barn that has been built similar to what I am building. I know what is required based on other buildings in my area. But I have this question because they were built using 6X6's. Not laminated post's.

My post embedment will be more than enough. Especially considering the concrete slab will be around each post. this building could stand on top of the ground once the metal is on and bracing is done.

None of us know what area that might be...

 

[crook038]

I have an engineered post building that I am currently constructing in South Eastern Massachusetts. It has 14' eave height and uses double trusses 12' O.C. for the interior trusses and single trusses on the gable ends. The posts that hold the double trusses are glue laminated finger jointed 3 ply 2X10. The lower 8 feet are pressure treated. The posts for the gable end trusses are 4X6 and 6X6 solid pressure treated posts. Hope this helps
Sean

 

[lakeroadster]

My engineered "Lester" building used 4 ply columns for each of the 2 ply trusses. Works great, the outside two ply's slip over the truss, and are attached using TrusLock screws.

Embedment is 48" on the columns. We live a few miles from the Continental Divide. My building is "Hell for Stout".

 

[psu927]

None of us know what area that might be...

Thanks guys. South eastern Pa. 30 Psi snow load

 

[HemiRamOn22s]

You want to go 4' in the ground. Definitely use laminated post. I believe mine are 4 ply. 8' on center is fine. You want to use a 2x12 LVL on the inside and out to carry the roof load. I'm in delaware so we have similar loads.

EDIT: I was wrong my post are 3 ply 2x6s. Salts on the bottom glued and nailed to untreated wood above grade.

 

[chaosracing]

PSU I am assuming you are from PA. I am in between Allentown and Reading. I just got a quote for building material from a pole building supplier. My design is 26' x 38' (due to permitting and set backs) and they designed it with 4 ply posts, figuring 3 foot in ground. Thats with trusses every 4' o.c. and the height is 18' floor to ceiling.

 

[ishiboo]

40'x56'x14'

3 ply 2x6, bought as a "kit" from lumberyard, and passed inspection.

Note though that most of the pre-built posts have rivet-clinched nails with stainless plates at the splices and are built with a certain grade of lumber. Just some things to think about.

 

[Red_Rattller]

3 ply for a 13' ceiling and 40x42 passed all inspections

 

[cj7jeep81]

40x64 by almost 17' here. Three ply 2x6 posts.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Height has very little to do with it. Pole spacing and dead weight of roof (trusses, sheathing, roofing material, etc) plus any snow load is the real issue.

What are you using for your truss carriers (top beam) and how will they be attached to the posts. Best is brackets directly on top. Almost is good, is set into the post.

 

[UpNorther]

I have 3 ply 2x6's on my 40x48x12h pole barn. Engineered and constructed by a pole barn company that builds in my tri-state area.

 

[lakeroadster]

What are you using for your truss carriers (top beam) and how will they be attached to the posts. Best is brackets directly on top. Almost is good, is set into the post.

Why would you say a bracket is better than dropping the truss into a 4 ply truss where the outer ply's are used to truss lock into the column? That's bullet proof design.

 

[rieferman]

PA posts are typically 4 feet in ground sitting on top of a 1 foot cookie or poured footer (so 5 foot deep hole). You don't want a building to sink and don't want it to lift in wind either (I've seen pics of entire like barns upside down after wind storms in our area). I know you want to just go for it, but with lots of existing engineered plans already in existence, not sure why you would wing it.

 

[jives]

My Amish pole barn is 32 x 42 x 14, with 3 ply 2x6 posts 8'- 10' (door spans) OC. Keep in mind that the trusses are engineered as are the posts. A 3 ply press-glued and fingerjointed and mechanically fastened post is a far cry from a three nailed 2 x 6s.

 

[HemiRamOn22s]

Why would you say a bracket is better than dropping the truss into a 4 ply truss where the outer ply's are used to truss lock into the column? That's bullet proof design.

He is talking about hanging the carriers. Not how the truss is attached to the post. I did both on my building. One side is notched and one side is sitting on a bearing block. The carriers are thru bolted with 1/2" carriage bolts and i didnt want the ends of the bolts sticking through on the inside of the building because im finishing it with metal on the inside.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Why would you say a bracket is better than dropping the truss into a 4 ply truss where the outer ply's are used to truss lock into the column? That's bullet proof design.

Poorly worded reply on my part ! Bracket on top of a 3-ply was what I was trying to say.

True 4 ply with outer 2bys positioning the load carrying member is great ! If you are NOT doing one post per truss, then you will have truss carriers (double 2x10 or 2x12) running the length of the building. Turn the post so the truss carriers sit in the pocket.

 

[theoldwizard1]

What he stated, "...just want to see what you guys have done from previous experience..." is in fact engineering. He seeks empirical engineering, that good ol' engineering based on and verifiable by observation and/or experience rather than theory or pure logic. People have been building these building since Roman times...no need to inject higher-math into this thing...
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99% of the time, spot on ! Every once in awhile your "example" is not necessarily a good one. That is why you look at multiple examples !!

Worst construction example is a load carrying member is bolted to a post. Load carrying member MUST ALWAYS be directly on top of a post (with positioning brackets) or notched into the post. Doing it wrong on a deck can lead to serious injury.

 

[ed_v]

IMO .... 3 ply will be fine.

I think for a 14' ceiling height, I'd bury those posts 4' deep. It depends on your soil conditions though. If it is a heavy clay, 3' might be ok.

Ed

 

[psu927]

Going with 4-ply post. (per glu-lam chart for ceiling height). Also going 4' to footer, so poles will be 3'4" in the ground. Most of the holes I hit bedrock, so they aren't going any deeper. But with uplift blocks, and the poles having a concrete apron around them (pad), they will be fine. Also I am doing double 2X12 headers, with the inside on notched into the poles. Every other truss will sit over a post.