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Anyone use a Mastercool flare tool for bubble flares?

rodm1

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I just received my new Mastercool flare tool and love it. This is my first time dealing with bubble flares and I'm wondering if any others use this tool for bubble flares to?

Finding the bubble fittings seam to be a challenge in its self. But when I make a bubble flare the side of the flare the fitting slides against seams to have a larger chamfer then a factory bubble flare (see link). Is that small difference not a problem and upon tightening the fitting it will form correctly? Do I need special fitting other then the standard bubble fittings at link?



http://cunifer.com/?page=home
 
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rodm1

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Another thing I'm wondering about are the DIN/ISO and Metric specifications. My understanding is they all are the same is this correct? I'm having very little luck verifying this.
 

a390st

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DIN/ISO is metric. Most 3/16 brake line uses a 10mmx1 DIN/ISO fitting that requires a bubble flare. European vehicles are most all plumbed that way anymore. I have used the screw type flaring tools for a double flare, and had decent success. When we got the little hand held hydraulic flaring tool, it had fittings for double flare and bubble flare. That was a good tool. I know you can get the bubble flare screw type tools from KD and SK, but the hydraulic one we had was Mastercool, I think.
 
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rodm1

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Here are some photos the rust free line is the Mastercool bubble flare. They show the fit up what I'm concerned about is the gap between the flare and the nut in one of the photos.

Is this what the rest of you are getting from other flare sets? Any leaks develop from this? Could these be out of speck dies?:headscrat
 

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rodm1

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I actually have the hydraulic model. Wont use anything else.

Are you getting a bubble flares like in the photo? I emailed Mastercool hope to here from them next week. I think that it's probable designed to crush into place upon tightening but no idea for shire.
 

mikevango

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Are you getting a bubble flares like in the photo? I emailed Mastercool hope to here from them next week. I think that it's probable designed to crush into place upon tightening but no idea for shire.

i agree it should snug right up when tightened.
 

a390st

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They need to fit with the flare flush with the fitting. I got good results with the hydraulic flaring tool.
 
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rodm1

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Well the Mastercool didn't work out!:( Anyone have other suggestions on a portable bubble flares tool that you can use under a car? Not the bench models from federel hill ext. That will flare a proper bubble flare with tight radius on fitting side?
 
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rodm1

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rodm1

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I have heard good things about the flaremaster2 but I don't know if they have dies for a bubble flare. I have been planning to get one from ebay.uk for a while but just have not gotten around to it.

http://www.uktools.com/product_info.php/flaremaster2-brake-pipe-flaring-tool-p-11497


Cool they make it in SAE & DIN.
"Flaremaster® 2 creates SAE & DIN single and double flares (3/16” and 4.75mm pipe)". Have you found anyone using this on stainless?

http://www.getme-tools.co.uk/shop/index.php/featured/flaremaster2-brake-pipe-flaring-tool.html
 
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4x4gearhead

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Out of my own curiosity did you put the line back on? and did it leak? I would think that as long as the fitting wasnt bottoming out before seating the flare you would still be ok.
 
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rodm1

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It's a long story! But to keep it short by the Snap On set you will need the warranty for the dies. Mastercool really wasn't any help and seed they are happy with the $hity die quality and get very few complaints. I've found using the ISO flare die with the DIN adapter will give a good bubble flare.

After researching this further one problem is using a tubing cutter it will work harden the tubing and ruin the die. The fix is to use a hacksaw or cut off wheel to cut the tubbing. This even works on Summit Racings double annealed stainless tubing and Cunifer (Kunifer 90/10).

I've talked to several people that clam they use tubing cutters with steel line and have no problems with dies. Can't really explain this except maybe Mastercool cheapened the material they are using or they are using high quality tubing cutters.

Over all I think this is the best setup you can get. But it might have a costly learning curve for a new purchaser. One other thing is if you press to hard you can blowout the seals in the cylinder and ruin your dies that way to.
 
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rodm1

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is a half of a bubble flare a DIN or bubble flare the piece before you double flare the bubble. Just curious.

A bubble flare it totally different from a double flare. It's like a SAE thread and a Metric thread they are totally different but looks similar. Some have used a SAE flare kit to coble up a flare they call a bubble flare but it can fail in a emergency stop.

Bubble flares the head compresses to make the seal wheres a double flare the flange makes the seal. Because of this bubble flares should be only used once.
 
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rodm1

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Out of my own curiosity did you put the line back on? and did it leak? I would think that as long as the fitting wasnt bottoming out before seating the flare you would still be ok.

I used the SAE die with the bubble adapter no leaks to date but not right in my book. Didn't have a choice no brakes and no die.
 
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