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Anyone use a radial arm saw ?

DTE

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Just wondering how many people still use a radial arm saw, I see that they have all but been outlawed. Any pointers ? I bought a Craftsman at a auction and about all I would use it for would be cross cutting some boards.
 
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NUTTSGT

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I have one and I love it. Whether it's a quick cross cut, cutting up some leftover wood for the kindling box or cutting dados/rabbets, I put mine to good use. Ever cut the latter on some PT 4x4 for an outside project, the RAS makes it a snap.
 

dreasoner

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I still use one. My dad showed me the safe operation of one when I was a teenager. I have had no injuries and I am now 51. I bought a good used saw 20 plus years ago. I replaced the carraige rollers and check and adjust alignment on a regular basis. I think as with any potential dangerous situation the 20% rule applies. You must be at least 20% smarter than the object you are dealing with.
 

Nor'Easter

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I had a Craftsman that was my grandfathers. I used it a bit and finally gave it away due to lack of space. They are outdated but some people swear by them. I'd rather have a chopsaw and table saw.

The one we use in the timberframe shop is 5HP and runs a 16" blade. Sketchy when it pinches a piece of wet 4x6.
 

Bob Hall

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Love the old DeWalts! We have three right now but will get back down to one soon. They are great for any cross cutting operation. I do Not recommend ripping with them even though Wally said we could, I just don't think it's worth the risk.
 

slip knot

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I have one in the shop that gets used for cabinet work. Works really good cutting panels up. I dont crosscut on it. Thats what the tablesaw is for.

The only problem with the RAS is that it takes up so much space. Keeping it square is a challenge too. mine has a bit of "wiggle" and you have to keep that in mind when cutting something square.
 

FMC1959

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I have one in the shop that gets used for cabinet work. Works really good cutting panels up. I dont crosscut on it. Thats what the tablesaw is for.

The only problem with the RAS is that it takes up so much space. Keeping it square is a challenge too. mine has a bit of "wiggle" and you have to keep that in mind when cutting something square.

Don't you mean you don't rip with it, that is what the table saw is for? A RAS is for crosscutting, and its one claim to fame over a SCMS is that you can also use a dado blade on it.
 

rharman

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NEVER get any body part across the path of the blade.

ALWAYS keep a firm grip on the handle from the moment you throw the switch until the blade stops spinning.

ALWAYS use the pawls or anti-kickback mechanism when ripping.

Don't let the saw dictate the cut speed - you control it.

I used one for years and loved it. Sold it to make more space in the garage but I sure do miss it.

A RAS has some inherent "risks" like the blade climbing, but if you maintain control and PAY ATTENTION it's a great tool.
 

ZRX61

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Had one for years & gave it away when I moved as there was no room for it. I'd have another one in a heartbeat if I had the room (or ask for the previous one back). It was used with a dado blade most of the time..
 

exmaxima1

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Love the old DeWalts!

I have a DeWalt that I bought brand new (my first NEW machine) in 1981. Not as old as some, but still among the best you could buy at the time. Still use it for crosscutting, and find it especially useful for dadoes when making shelves.
 

DWise

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I have been using my Craftsman 10 inch for over 40 years and could not do without it. Cross cuts, ripping, dado, even round grooves on shelves to hold billiard balls.
 

DonPowers

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I had a Craftsman that was my grandfathers. I used it a bit and finally gave it away due to lack of space. They are outdated but some people swear by them. I'd rather have a chopsaw and table saw.

The one we use in the timberframe shop is 5HP and runs a 16" blade. Sketchy when it pinches a piece of wet 4x6.

Just pulled this one out of storage to begin restoring it. Its a 16" saw but currently has a 14" blade. Also has 5 hp motor and was built in 1947.

Will be using it for timber frame work.
 

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finn

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I don't think they have been outlawed so much as the business case to manufacture and market them has been decimated by the lawsuits generated by an inherently unsafe product and the rise in popularity of the sliding compound bevel portable miter saw.

The big old space hogs are obsolete.

Having said that, I still use mine occasionally and it fits quite nicely under the basement stairs, although I'm sure my wife would like that space back.
 

sandslot

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I also own one for about 30 years and loved it, sold it because of space
 

miketyler

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I too have one and did have a 1x4 get away from me and nailed me across the bridge of my nose. Was damned lucky the board came at me broadside and not on its end. Could have been much worse. It was my fault as I was making too deep a cut on a single pass.

Since then I registered on the rasrecall website. They sent me a guard for it for free. BTW, the recall for these old Craftsman units is still going on. They will pay you $100 for the motor and the carriage to take these older units out of service. The large 12" models arent covered. More here:

http://rasrecall.com
 
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Jawn

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Since then I registered on the rasrecall website. They sent me a guard for it for free. BTW, the recall for these is still going on. They will pay you $100 for the motor and the carriage to take these older units out of service. The large 12" models arent covered. More here:

http://rasrecall.com

I recently acquired one for free (10" Craftsman), missing the table. Any tips on making one for it, or should I just throw a piece of MDF on with a 1x for a rear fence?

I registered on the rasrecall site after hearing some had received a replacement table, but the only thing offered for mine was $100 to decomission it.
 
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ovrrdrive

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I recently acquired one for free (10" Craftsman), missing the table. Any tips on making one for it, or should I just throw a piece of MDF on with a 1x for a rear fence?

I registered on the rasrecall site after hearing some had received a replacement table, but the only thing offered for mine was $100 to decomission it.

My Dad has had a Craftsman RAS for as long as I can remember. MDF with a 1x2 rear fence sounds just about right for what he has always had. I don't think his even had a table. Every few years he rebuilt it with new wood the same way.

I will say that's one of the scariest tools in his garage. I remember about 20 years ago i thought I was man enough to throw it around and then got lazy and tried to do an angle cut by holding it off the rear guard. It was working great until it hit a knot or something and slammed the end of my finger between the two pieces of wood and basically exploded it. About 10 stitches and a few months of healing time and it's all good. The nail has a little funky shape to it if you look closely but I have all the feeling in my finger and the meat grew back. lol

A RAS is a great tool to have if you work with wood a lot. Easy to get away from you if you aren't careful but as safe as you allow it to be. My finger was my fault not the saw's.

Btw I think I have some great pics of it from when I got home from the hospital floating around somewhere...
 

miketyler

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I recently acquired one for free (10" Craftsman), missing the table. Any tips on making one for it, or should I just throw a piece of MDF on with a 1x for a rear fence?

I registered on the rasrecall site after hearing some had received a replacement table, but the only thing offered for mine was $100 to decomission it.

Yes, it may vary by model. Mine is probably one of the last ones made thats built on to a small Craftsman cabinet. Also has the digital display that reads depth or elevation in thousandths. I havent used mine in years.
 

wrenchguy

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i had a vintage 24" walker turner, cut 14" crown with it. had it mounted on its mobile cast iron base. i push cut when using radials.
 

John in OH

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I have a 10" Craftsman RAS that I bought in the mid-1970s. Love it and use it often in conjunction with a 10" Delta table saw. Use the RAS for cross-cuts, lap joints, quick trims, etc. Great tool, but like any tool, it must be used with common sense and care.
 

woody 73

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I use mine all the time sigh...I paid a small fortune for a 12inch and three years later a 14inch came up for sale for dirt cheap but it was gone in a matter of hours...

I guess with the weight advantage and being able to carry them from room to room killed the RAS, now everyone has the little chop saw models.
 

NUTTSGT

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Fortunately, I have the wall space and could add a couple of cabinets with a top next to mine. IMHO, being able to easily use the RAS greatly increases the efficency and safety if you have something solid to hold up your longer material as you use it.



When I first set it up after buying our house, I didn't have a table saw. I followed the directions and did rip with it a few times. Within a year of buying our house, I bought a table saw, partially just so I didn't have to rip with the RAS again.

Mine has more than paid for it's original NIB/old stock price of $199.95 while the list price was $499 before it was marked down for being an older unit buried in the back room and found during inventory.
 
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tarmy

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View attachment 479264

I have this one...12". Love it and use weekly. They are a serious tool...not to be taken lightly. Firm grip, very sharp blade and careful use. Never had any issues as long as I followed the "if it don't feel safe...don't do it rule".
 
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brianh

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I have a 1950s dewalt 9 inch, it is a handy tool to have, if a bigger one came along at the right price I would get another. Like any tool treat it with respect.
 

DekeT

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uart

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Hi guys, noob question here. I've never used a radial arm saw, but I'm just wondering what makes them inherently more dangerous than a sliding miter saw?
 

FMC1959

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Just pulled this one out of storage to begin restoring it. Its a 16" saw but currently has a 14" blade. Also has 5 hp motor and was built in 1947.

Will be using it for timber frame work.

Real nice looking beast you have there!

I don't think they have been outlawed so much as the business case to manufacture and market them has been decimated by the lawsuits generated by an inherently unsafe product and the rise in popularity of the sliding compound bevel portable miter saw.

The big old space hogs are obsolete.

Injuries and lawsuit may have been a factor but probably no more than chainsaws and there are plenty of chainsaws around. I think the big change came in the early 80's when SCMS started showing up on the market, readily available to the general public, although early ones were expensive (I remember Hitachi was either the first or one of). Then years later the 12" came on the market and between price, space and portability, people bought SCMS and RAS just sat in the stores.
 

FMC1959

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Hi guys, noob question here. I've never used a radial arm saw, but I'm just wondering what makes them inherently more dangerous than a sliding miter saw?

For simple crosscutting, an SCMS you bring the blade between you and the cut and push away. With a RAS you start the cut with the blade on the other side of the cut and make the cut by pulling towards you.

Different densities of wood and knots make for the blade suddenly getting aggressive and biting more than expected. Sometimes the blade stalls, sometimes it kicks back, sometimes it takes a big chomp out of the wood.

All scenarios that if you are careful and prepared, happen at a minimum and no injuries. If your mind wonders and not fully at the task at hand, then a RAS can be very unforgiving, much more than an SCMS.

But don't kid yourself, if you get lax with an SCMS, it can be dangerous also.
 

uart

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For simple crosscutting, an SCMS you bring the blade between you and the cut and push away. With a RAS you start the cut with the blade on the other side of the cut and make the cut by pulling towards you.

Thanks for the explanation FMC. :) I've got a plain miter saw, not a sliding type, so I didn't know that.

One other question. On my plain miter saw I've only ever done crosscut. Just wondering what are the increased risks people are talking about when doing rip cuts?

My only other circular saw is the usual portable (hand held) type. Do you need to apply any extra caution when cutting with the grain on this type as well. TBH it's not something I've ever considered.
 

wildbill23c

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I have 2. A 10" and an older 8-1/4". I don't use either of them because they're buried and can't get to them LOL.
 

bobcatdan

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I had one for awhile and found it very handy for quick cuts. I never made any miter cuts or flipped the head sideways to rip. Long story short was it was the GF's Grandfather's saw. Her uncle had claims on it, but never came and got it for four years. I wouldn't mind picking one up again for cheap of CL, but don't have a good spot of one. I'll probably someday buy a compound miter saw instead.
 

stevep500

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Make sure you use a negative hook blade where the teeth are tilted backwards away from the cut. This will reduce, but not eliminate, the tendency for the saw to try to jump toward you. I use a Freud blade that has a -5 degree hook. Table saws typically use positive hook teeth.

Steve
 

FMC1959

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Thanks for the explanation FMC. :) I've got a plain miter saw, not a sliding type, so I didn't know that.

One other question. On my plain miter saw I've only ever done crosscut. Just wondering what are the increased risks people are talking about when doing rip cuts?
My only other circular saw is the usual portable (hand held) type. Do you need to apply any extra caution when cutting with the grain on this type as well. TBH it's not something I've ever considered.

I am not sure how you were planning on doing this with a miter saw, but it just sounds like a bad idea.

Use your circular saw and you will be much better off.
 

404

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Make sure you use a negative hook blade where the teeth are tilted backwards away from the cut. This will reduce, but not eliminate, the tendency for the saw to try to jump toward you. I use a Freud blade that has a -5 degree hook. Table saws typically use positive hook teeth.

Steve

Yes, very very important.:thumbup:
 
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