Anyone use a similiar "float" style compressor drain?

[RABRods]

I was reasarching more automatic drains for my compressor. I came across float style "zero loss" moisture drains. Similar prices as the electric units, yet no electricity required. Another benefit seems that it would not matter how frequent/infrequent you use the compressor, but the drain would only function as the condensation increased. Also, supposedly since it is "zero loss" I assume you wouldn't have that loud bust or air when it drained. I haven't seen anyone use/mention this type of drain on here....so has anyone used them?
My only concern is that I would need 9" of clearance under the compressor, so I may have to raise it up a few inches....
Thoughts?

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200397368_200397368

 

[Modern Jess]

Did not know such a thing existed. Nifty!

 

[RABRods]

So does this mean noone has used this similar type drain for your compressor?

 

[rburke65]

That's what it sounds like so far....

 

[big.jim]

we used to have them in the factory but still did a manual drain weekly , it used to save a lot of daily draining due to the amount of air we were using 300 - 500cfm even with a refrigerant dryer

 

[RPH]

Looks like a steam trap for condensate. Also look into a Sarco trap, it's a static condensate trap that does not require 9" of room. Maybe 1".

 

[pepi]

Give this a look, can be mounted above the drain hight, cycles every time the compressor starts and stops.

http://www.rite-products.com/Moistu...N-152-0000-300-PSI-14-NPT-Ports_p_800394.html

 

[stonesfan68]

That's not a zero loss drain. That is the most basic of drains and will need to be cleaned on a periodic basis. I'd install a y-strainer in front of it.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[dwm]

I've had a float-type drain on my 60-gallon for about 5 years. Yes you need clearance, but I prefer them at home over timer-based solenoid types. Mainly because they don't cause my compressor to cycle in the middle of the night. My compressor is on a platform of two small pieces of sandwiched 3/4" oak plywood. Used a hole saw to make a hole in the platform for drain clearance, big enough to also let me service it.

I do clean it once every two years, so far it has worked flawlessly. It is serviceable, and I use the same one on most of my drip legs (except the first, which has a similar Norgren drain). Parker 06D3NA.

 

[RABRods]

Thanks guys for the other similar float types, and opinions I will take a look at those also. I will keep you guys updated on what I go with and its performance.

 

[sberry]

I like that, how much? Whoops, I see 120$

 

[dwm]

The Parker I pictured is $61.29 at McMaster-Carr (P/N 41645K47). I needed 4 of them plus the Norgren, hence price was in the equation. As was size. Main downside versus the Norgren I have is that there's no sight glass. However, I've never had much use for a sight glass on an automatic drain at home. And they're great as drip leg drains.

There's one on eBay for $40 right now.

If you are going to attach plumbing to the outlet, be aware that the outlet is plastic... don't overtighten whatever you put in there. I'm using brass barbed fittings and clear hose into bottles, but will be running to the outdoors once the weather warms up and I finish other work on the garage remodel.

 

[larry4406]

Give this a look, can be mounted above the drain hight, cycles every time the compressor starts and stops.

http://www.rite-products.com/Moistu...N-152-0000-300-PSI-14-NPT-Ports_p_800394.html

This one looks pretty clever.

 

[kf4zht]

Now that my compressor lives outside I keep forgetting to drain it. These seem like just the ticket and the parker is cheap on fleabay.

Just need to see what size port I have on the bottom.

 

[RABRods]

DWM, I like that one even better, and for half the price. You say you have had good service with it. I think I will be ordering that today!

 

[pepi]

This one looks pretty clever.

It is and works very well, it is stainless steel, can be repaired, has a proven failsafe history, considering its design is for air brake systems.

Never seen a cheap floatly thingy hanging off an air brake accumulator tank.

stonesfan68:"That's not a zero loss drain" I do not think you know what you are talking about. Plumbing and air regulators loose more air then this product does, guaranteed.

 

[b-body-bob]

It is and works very well, it is stainless steel, can be repaired, has a proven failsafe history, considering its design is for air brake systems.

Do you get much water with it? I'm getting tired of bending over to drain my tank, but sometimes it seems like the water is behind air so I end up letting it "bleed" until it quits spitting. From that I'm skeptical that any automatic system is going to get it all.

 

[pepi]

Do you get much water with it? I'm getting tired of bending over to drain my tank, but sometimes it seems like the water is behind air so I end up letting it "bleed" until it quits spitting. From that I'm skeptical that any automatic system is going to get it all.

No, it is a quick blast and keeps the tank dry. Think about how many times the water vents, every time the compressor starts and stops. If you manually opened the drain before and after each cycle you would not acumulate water in the tank.

The advantage of the pneumatic trigger over all the timer types is it, is controlled by the cycle event.

It is like cleaning, if you have a machine or work bench, and you clean it before and after use it will always be clean. It will not get dirty just sitting there.

 

[b-body-bob]

I understand all that. I drain mine several times a day when I'm using it just because that's the way I am, and it often seems like the water isn't making to the ball valve to get out so I let it blow a little longer until it does.

Maybe the way that auto drain works with water accumulating while the unloader is pressurized, and then draining when it isn't, would push the water out. It sort of makes sense that it would. It's definitely got me interested and the price isn't bad comparing it to other drain systems (HF not included).

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Give this a look, can be mounted above the drain hight, cycles every time the compressor starts and stops.

http://www.rite-products.com/Moistu...N-152-0000-300-PSI-14-NPT-Ports_p_800394.html

I saw one of those on a HUGE brany-new Quincy at Scales Industrial today. I was picking up an overhaul kit for one of our Quncy 325QRB heads that seized after being run without oil (One of my custodians isn't getting a good review). If Quincy runs them, they're OK in my book...


Tommy

 

[OccupantRJ]

I run a float operated drain at work. Inside is a stainless steel float that operates a needle valve similar to a carburetor setup, except in reverse. When water builds up in the unit, the float rises and opens the needle valve. Water spurts out until the float drops, then the unit shuts off the needle valve as the float drops. I take the bolted top off and clean the goop out of it every couple of years. Other than that, it is trouble free. It is mounted at the bottom of a water cooled aftercooler to collect and disperse the condensate.

 

[koditten]

I use these at work. They are only for heated areas. If your compressor lives in an unheated environment and temps get below freezing, they will shatter when they freeze.

Go the cheap and easy way. Put an airline off the bottom of the tank. Use this only for blowing out the shop or filling tires. who gives a **** if you got moist air in a tire.

 

[larry4406]

Pepi - how "quick" is the brief blowdown and purge? How about noise? Is the water discharge port tapped so you can plumb it somewhere?