anyone use this?

[Heavy Hauler]

hey yall I'm new here & I'm wondering if any of yall have tried this product.

http://www.florock.net/florobuild.htm

the reason I looking at this is, when I built my garage I had a brain storm of an idea to do a broom finish on the floor to create a textured surface to prevent slips & falls. well I covered the floor with Sherwin Williams epoxy (great stuff I must say). but the problem is with the rough surface it's a pain in the behind to clean. I am looking at http://www.florock.net/florobuild.htm to return the floor to a smooth surface so it will stay cleaner. thank you for any & all responses.

as for the Sherwin Williams product I can't say enough good word about that product, but it would take about 4+more coats to get the floor smooth again. I have left brake fluid overnight on this floor & it never hurt it, it does have a few burn marks from welding & several small chips but that is from the broom finish on the floor.

 

[D-Cal]

Why not rent a shot blaster or similar machine, resurface the floor and use the Sherwin again?

 

[Kingham]

over all.. these products are good and make for a very durable surface. but they do leave a Sandstone finish... but can be built up with more topcoats for a smooth finish.

Epoxy motar systems are a pita for a beginner. You really need some experience with concrete/stucco/drywall floating and finishing techniques. You can really screw up your floor if haven't had experience laying this product down with a trowel.



I'm glad you have had a good experience with SW epoxy... Their CRU clear topcoat failed on 4 of my projects back a few years ago. the product would haze up when water was dripped on it. SW couldn't come up with an answer on why the product failed besides thinking that they sold me an "old batch" that went bad.. Never did good by me and the flooring product rep stopped returning my phone calls . I was out $6K with the warranty repairs. Needless to say I would never use their product again.

 

[Heavy Hauler]

I was thinking about grinding the floor smoth, but that is a heck of an expence. I may use the SW product again & just put about 3 coats on it.

 

[Kingham]

I was thinking about grinding the floor smoth, but that is a heck of an expence. I may use the SW product again & just put about 3 coats on it.

You may also want to go with a higher build epoxy product to do this as well. You can use them over your existing.. but remember to scuff the floor with 80 grit and clean before apply. of course I recommend Durapoxy product from the guys at durall (www.concrete-floor-coatings.com)

Another solution would be adding a thickening agent to the epoxy so you don't have to do as many coats. A very common thickening agent is Cabisil or Colloidal Silica, you can find it on the web.

you can blend this with the epoxy to make a thinker spread that can fill the broom mark better.

do a search on the www and you will find suppliers.

 

[Heavy Hauler]

how is the Dura Poxy applied? as for concrete experience I do have that under my belt, I pored & finished concrete for a few years, as a matter of fact I did my own garage floor.

 

[D-Cal]

I was thinking about grinding the floor smoth, but that is a heck of an expence. I may use the SW product again & just put about 3 coats on it.

I wouldn't say it's expensive, just labor intensive. If you paid someone to do it, sure it'd be expensive but I'd just rent the machine for a day.

You should look into how well subsequent coats of SW will bond with already dried coats, you may have to sand it all down anyway to get sufficient mechanical adhesion. Also, with many paints making it too thick can make it brittle and more vulnerable to impacts.

Nothing substitutes for good prep work and proper application really.

 

[Kingham]

Durapoxy as well as other brand 100% epoxy mixes can be applied by pouring a 6" wide ribbon across the floor and using a squeege to spread the epoxy around... then use a 3/8" roller the "back roll" the epoxy even..

Down side to 100% epoxy products is that they have a very short pot life of about 20 to 30 mins. that means you have to haul **** to get it spread out before it flashes and starts hardening up.

As for grinding the floor... you can rent a floor grinder at most commercial/concrete equipment rental store. You will have to buy the grinding stones that you use ($40-$80) with the machine. Most have a watering system to keep the dust down but it can still be very messy.

 

[Heavy Hauler]

As for grinding the floor... you can rent a floor grinder at most commercial/concrete equipment rental store. You will have to buy the grinding stones that you use ($40-$80) with the machine. Most have a watering system to keep the dust down but it can still be very messy.

I just got off the phone with my cousin that has been in the concrete buis. for over20 + years I asked him about it, he made a call to his floor grinder & he says that standard grinding stone will pug up & that diamond stones must be used to remove epoxy from a floor.

 

[Kingham]

I just got off the phone with my cousin that has been in the concrete buis. for over20 + years I asked him about it, he made a call to his floor grinder & he says that standard grinding stone will pug up & that diamond stones must be used to remove epoxy from a floor.

That is true... in addition they also have carbide blade scrapers that attach to the floor grinders.work as well. now you want to start talking $.. those can get very expensive.