Anyone worked with Laminate?

[mpire]

I was thinking of using some formica over MDF for my workstation in my garage. I know there are more durable things, but I figure its something I can do pretty easy.

I just need some adhesive and then I can cut off the excess with my router.

What do you think? If I went with straight MDF I don't think it would last very long.

 

[carap]

Just cut the sheet 1/4" over size in all directions. Use contact cement per can instructions as an adhesive. Do not let the two surfaces touch until they are in place. You can use thin strips of wood to keep them from touching. Remove wood strips from center working outward to the edge. Roll the surfaces together firmly. Then use a flush trim router bit to trim the edge of the laminate. If you are going to do the edges do them before the top.

 

[DeadSock]

I like to edge the substrate (ply or mdf or ...) with wood strips flush to substrate, trim excess laminate with a flush bit, and then make use a chamfer bit to ease the edges.

This makes a eased edge to protect the laminate edge and is more comfortable when resting a forearm on the edge.

The wood strips are generally oak for staining or poplar if the edging is going to be painted.

 

[csp]

I'd go with tempered hardboard over the MDF, screwed together. You can easily remove and replace the hardboard down the road when it's damaged. Not so much with laminate.

 

[MoonRise]

Contact cement is THE adhesive for attaching laminate to the substrate.

Follow the directions and watch out for the fumes if using solvent-based cement.

Pay attention to the part of the directions where it says something like "Once the two coated surface touch, they are pretty much permanently stuck together." Hence the 'trick' of laying a bunch of dowels or thin sticks on top of the adhesive-coated substrate and then carefully laying the adhesive coated laminate on top of that, and finally pulling out the sticks and then pushing the two coated surfaces together.

+1 on putting a solid-wood banding/edging.

But I believe the more durable way to attach the laminate and the edging in order to avoid the laminate going all the way to the final edge or having a lip/seam that can catch or start to peel, is to attach the laminate to the top first, then flush trim the laminate to the substrate edge, and THEN apply the solid wood banding/edging. Flush-trim the top of the solid wood to the top level of the laminate, and then apply the desired edge treatment (chamfer, round-over, Roman ogee, etc )to the solid wood.


Also keep in mind that if MDF gets wet, it will swell and warp and such. And although (usually) nicely flat-surfaced, MDF is darn heavy for its size and low strength for its size. Decent plywood is (usually) a bit stronger and more durable overall than MDF.

YMMV.

 

[kartracer23]

Or...
Go buy the pre-made countertops. When I got mine, it was cheaper than just the laminate sheets of the same size. And you have a backsplash and lip built in.

 

[72Anthony]

I also agree on the pre-made countertops available at the home centers. I've had good luck buying a longer size that had a damaged end and received about 10% off the price.

It's not going take a ton of abuse like a butcher block or stainless steel. They hold up well as long as they are adequately supported from underneath. The rounded lip and backsplash is very handy.

 

[CraigFL]

I've laminated lots of countertops. The emphasis is on CLEAN! Use the wood strips or dowels to space them but spend extra time to be sure they are VERY clean -- no chips or sawdust to come loose. If you get dirt/debris between the laminate and the wood, it will be lumpy and look bad.

You can get laminate with a thicker color surface that will stand up to nicks and scratches better.

I like the non-water base contact cement better but you should use it in a well ventilated area. Apply with a quality brush since bristles coming off in the glue would be bad.

When you trim the edge, there is a best direction to move so the edge cuts evenly. You can use the trimmer with the bearing or not but the edge smoothness will determine how even your edge will be.

 

[mpire]

I have bought plenty of pre-made countertops and installed them, but they are just not deep enough for what I am looking for. I want it deeper so I can actually do some work on it.