Applying Epoxy Coating to Expansion Joints ?

[bgraper]

I recently purchased my first home - and upon moving in, plan to put down an epoxy floor.

I've all but decided to go with the 100% solids from epoxy-coat with the paint chips and urethane top coat. My plan is to prepare the floor with the 7" diamond grinding cup, and then use the acid etch to hopefully clear up any trouble spots left over from the grinding.

I'm pretty confident that I can handle putting down the flooring - but I'm not sure what to do with the expansion joints. When I pour the epoxy, and am squeegeeing back, do I stop at the expansion joints ? Or do I just squeegee right over top of it ?

My plan was to pour the floor in 4 sections (divided by the expansion joints), squeegee it back, and then roll it perpendicular to the squeegee direction. Then put paint chips --- a couple days later, scrape the floor to eliminate high spots of paint chips --- and then put down the urethane top-coat.

Any tips ???

 

[Shea]

Just squeegee up to the edge of the contraction joint before you make the turn to head in the other direction. It's OK if a little epoxy runs into the joint. Any heavy stuff that spills in you can easily take a paint brush as spread it out within the joint real quick. The back rolling will even everything out around the edges of the joint.

Then put paint chips --- a couple days later, scrape the floor to eliminate high spots of paint chips --- and then put down the urethane top-coat.

Are you doing chips to full refusal? If not, you want to be putting down the polyurethane within 24 hours of the epoxy, not a couple of days later.

 

[Cobra6]

I recently purchased my first home - and upon moving in, plan to put down an epoxy floor.

I've all but decided to go with the 100% solids from epoxy-coat with the paint chips and urethane top coat. My plan is to prepare the floor with the 7" diamond grinding cup, and then use the acid etch to hopefully clear up any trouble spots left over from the grinding.

I'm pretty confident that I can handle putting down the flooring - but I'm not sure what to do with the expansion joints. When I pour the epoxy, and am squeegeeing back, do I stop at the expansion joints ? Or do I just squeegee right over top of it ?

My plan was to pour the floor in 4 sections (divided by the expansion joints), squeegee it back, and then roll it perpendicular to the squeegee direction. Then put paint chips --- a couple days later, scrape the floor to eliminate high spots of paint chips --- and then put down the urethane top-coat.

Any tips ???

As far as the expansion joints go - do you want to fill them? Epoxy-Coat recommends latex caulk with backer rod - that is what I did with mine. Here are some tips -
http://www.alphagarage.com/filling-joints-and-cracks.php

Look here - HotrodHR left his joints open -
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=192328

I didn't want to keep all the junk, dirt dust, every screw I dropped, etc., out of the joints, so I filled mine. If you leave the joints open, you will want to tape them off or cover them so all the epoxy doesn't run into the crack to fill it.

As far as the application, you will need to put the color chips down when you lay the first coat. Also, if you wait two or three days to apply the clear, you will have to sand the epoxy before you put down the clear. The recommended time frame to apply the clear is 18 - 24 hours after the base coat epoxy to get it to bond without sanding, So you will want to put down the base coat epoxy and color chips, then add the clear coat the next day.

 

[jasonvt]

As far as the expansion joints go - do you want to fill them? Epoxy-Coat recommends latex caulk with backer rod - that is what I did with mine. Here are some tips -
http://www.alphagarage.com/filling-joints-and-cracks.php

Look here - HotrodHR left his joints open -
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=192328



.

Epoxy-Coat recommends the latex caulk but NO backierrod. atleast thats what they told me.

 

[bgraper]

Are you doing chips to full refusal? If not, you want to be putting down the polyurethane within 24 hours of the epoxy, not a couple of days later.

I hadn't planned on doing to full refusal on the paint chips. I was hoping to have something with good coverage - but not a ridiculous amount. I'd like it to look a lot like HotrodHR's finished floor ( http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=192328 ). I think his looks great.

So if I'm only doing 50% chip coverage, do you need to scrape the chips before adding the clear coat ?

 

[bgraper]

Also - for a standard 2 car garage - will epoxy-coat's full product (apparently 500 square feet) actually be enough ? The garage is less than 500 sq ft, but I'm not sure by how much (haven't moved in yet!!).

 

[Shea]

So if I'm only doing 50% chip coverage, do you need to scrape the chips before adding the clear coat ?

No, you don't. They should lay flat if you are not applying a full coat of chips.

Also - for a standard 2 car garage - will epoxy-coat's full product (apparently 500 square feet) actually be enough ? The garage is less than 500 sq ft, but I'm not sure by how much (haven't moved in yet!!).

Always measure first, don't guess. As long as you are under 500 sf. you should be fine. If you are close, be careful not to put it on too thick. Most 2- car garages are 400 -450 sf, but you won't know for sure until you measure.

Good luck

 

[bgraper]

Thanks everyone for all the great info!!

I just got a response from epoxy-coat and found that their top coat is a clear epoxy, not actually a urethane.

From the responses I've read elsewhere on the forum, urethane seems to be the best option for top coat.

Anyone have any good recommendations for urethane supplier ? How is the slip-resistance without adding the aluminum oxide ????

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Legacy Industrial?
HD356VOC?
Link: http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/hd356voc-urethane-clear-coat-p-153.html

Pretty good stuff from what I hear.

We have "Soft Skid" for the skid resistance, Fine, Medium and Coarse grades available.
Link: http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/soft-skid-antiskid-additive-p-126.html

 

[Cobra6]

Epoxy-Coat recommends the latex caulk but NO backierrod. atleast thats what they told me.

Probably depends on how deep the cuts are mine were 1 1/2" or so deep - I wouldn't want more than a 1/4" - 1/2" thickness of caulk, so I used backer rod.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Your plan is flawed.

Stay away from the caulk. Choose a quality (2) part joint filler.

Coat and immediately flake the floor, wait approx. (12) hours min. and 24 hours max. , apply the urethane.
No primer? Risky business.

 

[retfr8flyr]

Listen to Scotty!! All the companies are trying to cut the cost of their kits to be competitive. Epoxy-Coat claims their product doesn't need a primer and packages it without a primer, showing less cost. When you call them next time ask if it's better to use a primer and see what they say.

I wouldn't think of going to all the work and expense of coating my floor and scrimp on the prep or not use a primer. Proper prep and a good primer are what makes a floor hold up over time. A good primer is formulated a little differently then a base coat and is designed to really adhere to the concrete.Then the base coat can adhere to the primer. You are planning good prep with grinding the floor but use an epoxy filler for the joints and use a good primer, no matter what company you choose for the final coats.

I just went through this choosing the Epoxy company process and ended up learning a lot from everyone on the forum. I would talk to Scotty with Legacy Industrial, Fred with Alpha Garage and Justin with GarageFlooringLLC, as well as Epoxy-Coat, before you make up your mind on which product to use. I ended up going with Fred and the Wolverine products but you can't go wrong with any of the four companies.


Earl